Castrol LMM grease is what I have used Mark.
Make sure you silicone it all up when you put it back together and I added a breather to the motor casing to further help prevent water ingress.
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Castrol LMM grease is what I have used Mark.
Make sure you silicone it all up when you put it back together and I added a breather to the motor casing to further help prevent water ingress.
Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
Thanks Drew, I though about using LMM but its not water proof and if any water does manage to get in there... But a Lithium base grease is probably what I need, because of the extreme pressure in the gears. I think I have some Lithium based water proof grease somewhere in the garage....
Nah just another standard one, except this one is all clean and shiny.. Not half blocked with carbon lolQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
When I change my air filter, I noticed the sealing gasket on the snorkel between the air box and panel was broken and come off.
Is at Nissan today having it fixed under warranty.
You reckon they will just fill it up with silicone Mick? Or actually do the job properly?
why don't you run an air line to it so its pressurized for water crossing, only need an old air horn compressorQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
A lot of comp guys do this. easy as to do
Used that hi temp silver solder 2% all the time when I worked at the motor rewind place.
Also put a texta mark on my Dawes Valve, and have documented positions and boost/ spool figures.
Hoping to grab a few extra PSI to get the EGTs lower
I had an extra earth strap put on the long ranger sub tank as suggested by Nissan to fix my transfer issues and it did diddly squat.
Needs to go back again to rectify the problem.
Also got a Redarc 20A in-vehicle 3 stage BC/DC 12v battery charger, and the isolator removed.
To rectify my aux battery charging capacity.
Also an external Anderson plug to keep battery on charge when not in use without opening the hood.
Was found my aux battery tested ok but the main battery was kaput.
Will need to perhaps change aux battery to main and look at maybe an Optima yellow top for the Aux battery.
Not sure yet if I can change it round as the terminals are opposite way around.
All in all, happy with today but was really hoping for a sub tank that transfers fuel.
You probably already have considered this and I don't know your circumstances, but I reckon you want to carefully weigh up your Aux battery use before choosing a Yellow Top. Yes they are an all-rounder, and if you parallel them to your start battery a lot, then probably a good choice, but there are much better dedicated Aux batteries around depending on need. A/Hrs is not overly high on the Optima range. We use the Yellow Tops a lot at work and they are great, but not for longer term Aux loads like fridges and lights etc... Just a thought.
Had the patrol serviced after the Simpson trip, had to get a couple of brackets welded back on where they cracked and new sway bar links due to the old ones falling off they were that flogged out and the gear stick bushes replaced to reduce the slop, off this weekend to the Blackwood river :)
finally replaced my tyre i blew at camerons corner, picked up a replacement from a mate brand new for $150 hankook 33" AT. I have been a bit slack getting things back to spec after the big simpson trip but we are back on track now.