I'm guessing this is the issue???
How hard is it to get the intercooler of to fix it.
That hose has to go on that pipe where it has cracked of???
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I'm guessing this is the issue???
How hard is it to get the intercooler of to fix it.
That hose has to go on that pipe where it has cracked of???
Yep, thats it!Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
Get yourself some new rubber tube and replace the whole length. Removing the cooler is easy enough. Just undo the big hose clamps at the cooler, unplug the MAP sensor and undo the 4 bolts holding it down.
Unfortunately this is a bad design. It would be better if the steel tube was bent over toward the turbo rather than having a sharp bend at the connection, but you may still be able to replace the hose with a pair of long nose pliers.
Good luck,
Chaz
Hey mate.
All fixed :) so stoked hey. managed to get the old hose back on tonight without taking the intercooler of.
I will replace all the hoses this weekend as all of them look a little dodgy.
I am getting a few more boost spikes than i was before when i just took it for a little drive. Just short sharp spurts up to about 15psi.
Im not sure if thats because i removed and cleaned the Dawes valve, and now it needs resetting. Any ideas?
Needle valve next on the list for sure
Mate i cant thank you enough for all you help.
Legend :)
No problem Leigh,
Boost spikes are normal, but I wouldn’t worry about 15psi. It may be better if you set the Dawes valve to run at 14 – 15psi, even if it spikes to 17. Still much better that not having a Dawes with spikes above 20psi.
Still much better with the needle valve fitted because you’ll be able to slow down and reduce the spike. You’ll be an expert boost control tuner before you know it.
Cheers,
OK mate no worries, ill get my Dawes set up to about 14-15psi
What should my boost gauge roughly sit at when im doing 100km/h down the highway sitting on 2000rpm. Im getting about 11-12 psi. Is that to high?
Oh and another one of those questions. Is this my MAF sensor??? i got some contact cleaner. How do i clean it? And how often?
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/5104/imagenpr.jpg
That is your boost sensor . the maf sensor is in the air intake just near the air filter housing . two torque screw head screws holding it in place.
research the thread on this forum , all the info is there and photos to guide you .
engine and drivetrain section of the forum - checking and cleaning maf sensor by YNOT .
Leigh,Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
Your car must be an auto. I’m constantly sitting on 14psi at 100km/h and 2000rpm with mine. If I accelerate a bit it hits 15psi, but won’t go past that. Around town, I rarely pass 10psi, but that’s because I have 2 Dawes valves fitted.
15psi max isn’t too high at all. In fact it’s probably lower than it needs to be, but being constantly there, you’ll find you’re EGT’s run lower. The factory boost often goes into the low 20’s, but fluctuates a lot and temps constantly rise and fall.
The main reason that I recommend 15psi is that some cars will go into limp mode if they go above that below 3000rpm for more than a few seconds, particularly with a cold engine.
cheers Chaz. ill definately set it up to 15psi then :)
Before i buy my Needle valve, i have a question. So the needle valve will give me boost when i go over 100km/h and over 2000rpm?
as soon as i hit 2100-2200rpm at the moment i get no boost at all. which makes the EGT's rise alot.
ideally i would like to sit my cruise control on 110km/h and not have to worry about the EGT's. But at the moment max is 100km/h before i lose boost
Leigh,Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
No, the needle valve won’t give you boost when you go over 100km/h and over 2000rpm, but it will allow you to control your spool rate so that you can bypass the ECU boost control solenoid, which will give you constant boost when you go over 100km/h, without dropping off when the ECU wants to increase EGR.
Now that you have fixed the broken hose issue that you had, try to do what I suggested previously and run the hose that was broken straight into the top of the Dawes valve. If you do it, just be careful not to accelerate too aggressively because your spoolup will be very fast, but then drive up to 100km/h and you should have 15psi all the time and your EGT’s will be much lower.
ok mate, i will give that a go tomorrow afternoon.
sweet. Its frustrating not being able to do more than 100km/h without the EGT's going up near 500 degrees.
So the results i will get from doing that test, will pretty much be what will happen once a needle valve is installed?
apart from reducing the spool rate.
Yes, that is correct. If you can maintain at least 14psi at highway speeds, you're EGT's should be between 350 and 400c unless you're climbing some long hills.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
Hey mate, did the test and it worked great! Had about 14-15psi all the time when up to or over 100km/h.
Lower EGT aswell which can only be good.
Correct me if I'm wrong please but I remember reading somewhere i shouldn't have any more than 10psi at 2000rpm? Now with y Dawes valve set to 15psi. I get no boost over 2100rpm bit 15psi at 2000rpm
Ok, that doesn’t make sense. If you have 15psi at 2000rpm, you should still have it at 2100rpm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
When you fit the needle valve, you’ll be able to adjust the spool rate down to give you 6psi at 1500rpm and 10psi at 2000rpm, which is the ideal spool rate. Without the needle valve you won’t be able to do this, so this is why it’s best to fit the needle valve.
A spool rate that’s too aggressive can shorten turbo life over the long term and induce turbo surge in extreme cases. 6psi at 1500rpm and 10psi at 2000rpm are conservative and safe levels for good turbo life while retaining smooth operation and good performance.
Once you get above 2000rpm, it should be safe to go to maximum boost, even as low as 2100rpm, but ideally you should be able to get a more linear boost curve up to 16psi at 3600rpm, which is where maximum power is produced.
Yeah with the car set up normally (not the test you got me to do) that's where my boost goes right down. Between 2000-2100rpm i get the max boost. Then it drops down to about 6-7psi and the EGT's get to about 500 degrees.
So it's not ideal to have 15psi at 2000rpm? Which is what my dawes valve is set to now? Looking on your site, it suggest 10psi at 2000rpm. Which is where i had it set.
Aaaaargh so much to ask and learn hahaha
I would leave the Dawes set to 15psi under load if you don’t get limp mode, regardless of revs because your car is an auto and under load the converter will always flair to just above 2000rpm. After you fit the needle valve, you’ll be able to tune the lower rpm boost down slightly so that you get closer to 10 or 12 psi at 2000rpm and it should take a bit more right foot to get it up to 15, but it shouldn’t pass 15psi below 3000rpm. Above 3000rpm, it may climb up a little more.
In my case, I can get it up to 18psi at 4000rpm, but really only go there on the dyno. Occasionally I have been up to around 3500rpm and it reaches 16psi without any limp mode problems. This is close to what you should be aiming for.
So leave it set to the 12-14psi I get at 2000-2200 rpm for now. And get my needle valve and sort it out then?
Yep, that’s the way to go. Just remember to be a little bit gentle on the throttle until you get the needle valve in so you don’t get any big spikes or limp mode problems and it should be good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
Ok picking up my needle valve this afternoon :)
I've seen your diagram on your site mate, is that what I need to do?
Which hoses from the ecu need connecting up to it, and what ones blocked of?
Also does the needle valve go on a certain way around?
When you install the needle valve, you will also need the small tee piece that came with the Dawes valve. The easiest way is to just take all 3 hoses off the solenoid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
Pull off the long one that went from the turbo to the solenoid, remove the small green damper and fit the hose to the air filter resonator. Put the needle valve on the other end of that hose. The air filter resonator is the other end of the short hose that’s on the solenoid and it shouldn’t matter which way around the needle valve goes.
Then fit the small green damper to the hose that comes from the vacuum pump (the one that you repaired recently) and connect the other side of the damper to the vacuum side of the Dawes valve. Tee off that to the turbo actuator and also the other side of the needle valve and it’s done.
When it's done, there should be no hoses left on the solenoid. Blocking the solenoid ports is optional. I do it just to stop debris getting into the solenoid. but it will all work ok without blocking them.
When you install the needle valve, you will also need the small tee piece that came with the Dawes valve. The easiest way is to just take all 3 hoses off the solenoid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
Pull off the long one that went from the turbo to the solenoid, remove the small green damper and fit the hose to the air filter resonator. Put the needle valve on the other end of that hose. The air filter resonator is the other end of the short hose that’s on the solenoid and it shouldn’t matter which way around the needle valve goes.
Then fit the small green damper to the hose that comes from the vacuum pump (the one that you repaired recently) and connect the other side of the damper to the vacuum side of the Dawes valve. Tee off that to the turbo actuator and also the other side of the needle valve and it’s done.
When it’s done, there should be no hoses left on the solenoid. Blocking the solenoid ports is optional. I do it just to stop any debris from getting into the solenoid, but it will all work ok without blocking the solenoid ports.
Ok just to clear things up before we go further lol The air filter resinator is near the Solenoid yes? and the VNT is the turbo?
because there is this picture i have come across.
patrol4x4.com/forum/members/geeyoutoo-46168/albums/dawes-setup-dual-solenoid/4025-original-single-dawes-schematic.jpg
Is this what i need to do exactly?
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Yes, that is all correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
But on the boost side of the dawes valve for me at the moment i have my Diesel/Gas hose and a hose from the Boost Inlet. Because my Boost gauge is not apart of my dawes valve hoses, its seperate
What should i do with them mate?
just want to get it right, so i best make sure.
Leave them as they are. It doesn’t matter where you take the boost signal from for the gauge or the Dawes valve for that matter. Boost pressure should be almost the same through the whole inlet system after the turbo.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
Ok sweet i think i have got it sorted :) ill do it tomorrow morning and let you know how i go.
in the pic the VNT is the turbo and the resonator fitting is just near the solanoid?
cheers mate, bloody appreciate it hey
Ok installed to the picture. Set the needle so the arm drops then lifted back up to the screw. Getting no boost now unless I have my foot flat and then OT will only get to 5psi :(
EDIT: ok so it did matter what wat around the needle valve went, wierd huh!
So now im getting my boost again, do i adjust my boost to the levels you recommend (e.g 2000 rpm @ 10psi) with the dawes or needle valve?
You should adjust the needle valve as you have, at idle so the arm just touches the stop screw. That should put it very close to the mark. Then just adjust the Dawes valve to 15psi with about ½ throttle. Then drive it for a while and you should see the boost hover around 10psi at 2000rpm while cruising with a fairly light throttle. In your case it’s unlikely that you can drive much below those revs, but if you accelerate harder the boost should shoot up to 15psi and stay there until you back off. If it does that, it should be good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
Strange that your needle valve is directional. I thought only a check valve would be directional. Live and learn……………..
So once I have set the arm to just touch the screw, that means the spool rate has been sorted? So it dosnt run fast like it did when I do that test?
Well the max boost I can get out of my Dawes now is 15psi at any speed (have only gone for 1 drive) how it is set. I thought if I changed the Dawes valve it would make boost higher at 2000rpm?
No, adjusting the Dawes will only determine how high boost can go. Adjusting the needle valve will determine how quickly (or early) it gets there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
So the spool rate is adjusted with the needle valve, but if opening the needle valve still results in a very fast spool rate or big boost spike, you then adjust the VNT actuator arm stop screw. Usually turning it down about ½ a turn does the trick, but that shouldn’t be necessary unless you have limp mode issues.
Adjusted my Needle Valve so i get about 10psi @ 2000rpm with the foot down a little bit
Do i leave my Dawes @ 15psi? because if its set to 15psi i cant get to the 18psi @ 4000rpm can i. Which is suggested on your write up.
Yes, it should still go to 18 at full throttle unless your transmission can't provide the engine load. Leave the Dawes set at 15psi as recommended with part throttle and some load.
What happens is that the Dawes valve will let some boost pressure into the vacuum side to control and maintain a 15psi limit up to a point. Then at higher rpm (usually above 3500rpm) the exhaust gas velocity will continue to increase the turbine speed even though the Dawes valve will hold the turbo actuator arm down and boost will rise above the set limit. You should see it increase to around 16psi at 3600rpm and go up to 18psi at 4000rpm, but this will only happen at full throttle. If yours doesn’t get up to 18psi, I wouldn’t worry about it because it’s only due to the fact that your car is an auto and the engine isn’t seeing enough load. A manual transmission car or an auto with manual converter lock will do it every time.
We set it up this way because during dyno testing, we didn’t make any more power above 16psi and the ZD30 makes its maximum power at 3600rpm. Running 18psi at 4000rpm is a very safe and conservative limit for an engine with a 17:1 compression ratio, so this all works out well for engine longevity and performance. The fact that Nissan set up the system to run much higher boost, is purely for improved emissions.
Ok so what do you mean by load?
When im taking of from lights or so on, I get higher boost that when cruising. Sometimes it rises about the 10psi @ 2000rpm.
but when cruising @ 2000rpm for example ill get about 6-7psi at times.
Ok leaving my Dawes set at 15psi then, i have not seen it exceed that except for a small spike up to about 17psi for a second or so.
Load is when the engine is working, like when you take off. When you cruise, there isn’t much load, hence lower boost and lower EGT’s. When the engine is under load, eg taking off, accelerating up hill or just a heavy throttle, you should have your 15psi. If you back off the throttle, your boost should drop down to almost nothing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
Your EGT’s will only rise to high levels if the load is high enough, so that’s where you want to make good boost to keep the EGT’s down. When you cruise and boost is down, there isn’t much load so EGT’s and fuel consumption drops.
So everything i have said is ok and not abnormal?
Yep, it sounds like you have done it right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
I would just drive it for a while and see how it goes. If you have any problems, you may need to do some fine tuning, but otherwise keep an eye on your EGT’s and enjoy. You shouldn't need to watch the boost closely unless your EGT's start to run abnormally high.
your a legend mate.
All your help has been awesome :)
cheers
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2011/11/12.jpg
Sent from my iPhone. Please excuse the spelling.
My pleasure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighw85
Hopefully this will help others contemplating these mods or to understand how and why it’s done also.
Cheers,