Have a look into the NPC 6x6 clutch. Fair bit cheaper than the viper and should hold fine. They keep them on the shelf.
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Have a look into the NPC 6x6 clutch. Fair bit cheaper than the viper and should hold fine. They keep them on the shelf.
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OK, thanks Chris. I am already in contact with NPC, funny enough they didn't mention this clutch - i have read about it in the same circles as the Viper. Only headache is the chev flywheel drilled for a Nissan clutch pattern, which is different to the Viper, so its either a new flywheel, which they don't carry, or take the flywheel off and either get them to drill and tap it exactly to the new centres or have someone do it, and they can't recommend anyone in Melb to assist. Another long winded trail to success it looks.
Fun fun sounds like it's progressing well. Cornell Diesel was the place I ended going after didn't have the best of luck with Dieseltek. Very happy when it now, loving driving the GQ. . .
Reckon when intake is back together properly should be a lot nicer. .
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Yeah, at the moment the joy isn't there yet, have to R&R this PS pump on next roster break, 3 bolts, impossible orientation, probably take a day!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
OK, so brand new power steering pump drops all its oil the first time the RPM gets above idle, 5 klm total travelled distance, blows out the front shaft seal and is distributed over the entire engine bay. Contact Brunswick diesel, their response, well I can do you a new one for $750, like WTF. Ever heard of warranty you turkeys? You set the pump up as a sub assemble, I mounted the sub assy and filled it with oil after fixing the hose that was too short, that you supplied, so every 5klm I am expected to shell out $750 for the luxury of power steering? These guys are beyond belief - the conversation will continue but right now they think its a fair situation. When I am done with these guys I will be happy. Oh, and we will sell you a replacement clutch, look after you etc, but won't guarantee it will handle the torque- yep, I better have 5 them at that special 'looked after price', steer away from these guys if you want my opinion.
thats a bugger mate, sounds about the same sort of glorious customer service etc @Ben-e-boy got when doing his motor build. i feel your pain.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Its rubbish Nick, total rubbish, and I will expect a call from them tomorrow regards the clutch and see what absolute trilogy they will try and weave.
Far out Phil sorry to hear mate sounds infuriating, hopefully get a better run of luck soon. .
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Have you got a part number for the pump?Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
There are other ways to get one without paying BD prices.
No, am hoping I will get one today via one of the other FB pages, but then again will try Eagle Auto Spares or the USA Spares mob in Dandenong as they supply to BD, but to be honest they charge like wounded bulls to protect their relationship with BD. Either way I should not be paying, I mean, you can't buy anything new today without it having a warranty.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Something like this might do.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-SB-B....c100005.m1851
Thanks Ralph, I need to speak with BD about this today and if they hold out, get the shaft diameter they use as there appears a couple of different diameters.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
I don't want to seem like a prick but are you 100% it's plumbed up correctly? To blow the shaft seal means you are pressurising the case somehow. The shaft seal should basically never see pressure unless the pump is absolutely shagged and bypassing to all buggery. Are you able to draw out the circuit at all?
No offence taken, the lines were simply swapped from the original to the new in the same orientation. I am back on site so when I get home in a fortnight I will have another look. For example the low pressure lines are fitted at both ends with cable clamps and the high pressure lines had screwed fittings from memory. The new pump has a barbed fitting and a female screwed port - should be straight forward. I had run the car perhaps a klm without detrimental effect prior to this major failure, around local streets with lots of turns, would have thought it would have shown up is incorrect? Anyway, I will look at this when I get home. I just tried to find a power steering schatic for the TD42 power steering circuit - could not find one.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Update, BD have decided to supply a partial new pump, which is better than nothing at all - i just need to swap out the pulley and also the backing plate. Glad they saw sense.
@NissanNewbie,here is the schematic as best as I can recall. I am leaning towards overfilled reservoir perhaps - seems like there is a tight seal on the can - any ideas? I have a further 2 weeks to tormeAttachment 79243nt myself before getting back home!!!
Or, a seal leak from discharge of pump, internal to reservoir - on the basis the rear plate of the reservoir is a separate unit to the pump, so there is likely to be a discharge line from the pump discharge port to the pump, o'ring for example - them the reservoir would be pressurised.
A standard shaft seal can usually only deal with very little pressure like 30psi or less. Unless a high pressure shaft seal is used. So the hose clamps will still hold on way after there is enough pressure to kill the shaft seal. I will track down a OEM circuit for the power steering but I think you may need to run the fluid further before returning to the reservoir. Running through a cooler would be ideal as it will see a pressure drop and be better then returning to the small reservoir.
Many thanks, I actually purchased an in-line cooler for the fluid and didn't install it as too impatient to get the thing back on the road. So you are thinking there is too much residual pressure in the return line and this is pressuring the reservoir?Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Yeah there is just to much flow returning to that little reservoir but it is only a thought. I know BD are fantastic are supplying secondhand crapQuote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Yep, finding this out, along with very limited substantiated engineering. I am looking at replacement clutch as mine is undernourished for sure, but think I will get it dyno'd first to get a real understanding of what i need capacity wise because BD have expanded the capacity by 50% on the same clutch over the last 3 days - must be due to the sunshine over in WA!Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
OK, just received the new PS pump. Could I ask a favour please of any GQ Patrol owner, to take a photo of the hose connections at/to the PS pump and also the reservoir. I am looking to confirm the pressure and return lines orientation. I am pretty sure I have it correct, however would like to confirm it before starting the mission of replacement next Friday. The pressure line from the pump should have crimped fittings I think and the return lines simply hose clamped.Thanks in advance.
Here are a couple of shots I got off the internet. Attachment 79260
Attachment 79261
The pressure line I believe is the one shown with the crimped hose still connected to it - If this could be confirmed it would put my mind at rest. This is the hose I connected to the pressure port on the pump.
Sorry it took so long. The high pressure side is is circled in both pics. On the steering gear it is the one towards the front. On the pump it is towards the passenger side.
Thanks Craig, appreciate it. I assume front of vehicle is bottom of image?
Edited above post.
Gotcha, this aligns with the image i posted earlier,now I am doubting if I have plumbed this up correct or not - simply cannot recall the detail - so will have to stew on this until next friday, but then I can't see how the ps would have worked in the first place and why it didn't fail immediately if it was hooked up backwards?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
The bottom hose from the reservoir goes to the low pressure side of the pump.
Dunno, Phil. The blue hose is the suction inlet. I suppose if it was plumbed wrongly, it might have been pumping high pressure fluid into that.
If you were turning the steering wheel while the vehicle was on a jack, then not much pressure was applied. On the road, with higher pressure and load it would have caused a higher pressure to be generated at the seal. All conjecture at this point, though.
So, when you look at the lines that run across the front of the car from drivers side to passenger the return to the drivers side, are they on the low or high pressure side of the system?
OK here is what I have and believe it is correctly configured.Attachment 79278
Attachment 79279
Hi and low pressure lines
That seems to be right. Is your pump and res all in one unit?
Yes, its a chev style, pump is inside the reservoir. When I get home at the end of next week, I have to pull the old/new one out and swap over the rear casing and then re-install it. I am hoping to discover the reason for the failure then, but in the meantime doing the research to make sure its hooked up correctly, which I am sure it is now. I am going to get the actual pressure hose modified by Pirtek as they made me one without a swivel in it and I may have constricted the bore when I installed it. Still baffled how this would pressurise the take and blow the seal, or maybe the seal was simply faulty or poorly fitted. I must have been idling for a few hours whilst I was trying to burp the radiator, and it certainly wasn't leaking then. Anyway, thanks for the help today, will advise what I find later.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
The high pressure line will always be the smaller one. Everything after the steering box should be larger returning to the reservoir with basically no restriction. A cooler helps in that with a temp drop you will get a pressure drop. So larger return line and cooler have a lower pressure returning to the reservoir.
You also need to make sure the return to the reservoir is under the fluid level.
All good thanks and understood. I guess my focus was on identification of the pressure and return ports on the steering box. All else should be fine. i am pretty sure its connected correctly, just a very short period of time at home so want to maximise every minute if I can. Looks like the pressure port is now identified so on to the swap over and hose mod friday arvo.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
So a mixed day. BD finally agreed to replace the PS pump that last 3klm before shitting itself. Once I got it out of the car and apart, found the front bearing was knackered and the pump full of metal splinters - next it will be the PS box. Anyway, after 3 call Greg decided to replace the mount bracket assy as I am still throwing belts. I am well past 'over it' with these guys to be frank.
I finished the airbox assy, loots great but can't install it as need the access for the PS assy installation. Frustrating. So moved on and prepped the bonnet for the scoop, had to make 2 stiffener frames for the bonnet as I have cut through a number of braces. Drilling and mounting the scoop tomorrow, then with luck, back onto the car and it might even fit! One day, its going to get back on the road, one day ending in 'y' that is.
Is it possible to flush all the metal out of the steering gear while in the vehicle?
Craig, I might be ok, the metal shards and pieces were stuck to the magnet inside the PS pump tank. It looks like they have been there from the beginning, ie from when BD swapped the reservoir over to the pump. I know it didnt originate in my gagarge as the pump arrived all sealed up with plugs caps and it wasn't opened up until the connections were made and the thing filled with fluid. Simply piggy workshop practice.
Bonnet scoop turned out well. going to line the underside tomorrow, waiting for all the sikaflex to dry. Frames are 25x25x3 angle.Attachment 79333Attachment 79334
Pic of removed pump, very healthy collection if fibresQuote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Attachment 79335