04 gu bus...

Mudski has 30 psi mine has 26 psi basically you need 10psi at 100 ks on a flat hwy
then use your needle valve to adjust the spool up rate, .
Normally at idle with the NV closed you slowly open it till the atuator arm falls away on the turbo at that point nip up the NV.
BTW where have you put the EGT bung most have it 150mm post turbo

Std boost is about 15 psi but if you can squeeze abit more without doing any harm why not, again its only a three litre
Btw I think my temps are higher than normal as the egt bung is very close to the turbo
you can just see the bung in this pic way too close imo

Cheers 3 dogs... I don't know what's going on with mine but I can see upto 25psi.. That's with standard setup... No Dawes/needle valve installed... My pyro bung would be arnd 100-150mm back frm turbo... Looking at investing in a electronic boost controller in the near future so I can run a standard boost setting and a higher 30psi setting once I have enough funds for snorkel and exhaust upgrade...

Check out Chaz Yellowfoots dual dawes set up Dr Gary just finished his install.
I might change the position of my bung if it doesnt cost an arm and a leg.
I always thought it was 150 down the dump pipe doh

Finished wiring up my lights on the roof...
Fuses and relay nicey tucked away inside frnt kickpanel.. couple pics of how i ran the wiring...

I like the way you ran that wire to the roof might have to copy it

I didnt need any clips or anything... 4mm twin core tucked into that seem outside the windscreen perfecrly...relay and fuses behind drivers side kick panel away frm engine bay temps and possible water and easy as too acess...

I put my roof light switch here,plenty of room behind for more as well

Plan on running my dual battery gauge in that spot...like you said a lot of room there..

Yeah thats my aux batt guage there, the main is in front of the instrument cluster.
My 12v clock arrived today 52mm but having trouble figuring out where to put it lol
Also have a small 12v rectangle one, might fit under the batt gauge, not sure ATS

Got another head unit coming the only thing left working
is music on SD card and the TV on this one GGRRRrrrrrr

can anyone advise me on how i go about trying to get a couple of the forum stickers for my bus? cheers and thanks in advance..

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Originally Posted by mullet_hunter

can anyone advise me on how i go about trying to get a couple of the forum stickers for my bus? cheers and thanks in advance..

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Send taslucas a pm mate, he'll sort you out

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Forum Fiend v1.2.10.

Yo MH what have you done with your old OE MAF housing ???
oh and the OE airbox lid ??

I plan on keeping the standard airbox lid but the standard maf housing is urs if u want it... Pm me ur address and I can send it to u.. Early Xmas present frm one fellow 04 owner to another...

cool thanks mate I owe you one
PM sent
do you think the lid and the maf housing makes much difference??

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Originally Posted by threedogs

cool thanks mate I owe you one PM sent do you think the lid and the maf housing makes much difference??

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I think hpd have top notch products.. I'm running there catch can, comes with everything.. Hoses bolts etc and I had it installed within 3-5 mins..didn't have to modify or cut anything.. It also functions aswel as it looks... There billet maf housing and billet lids are Awsome aswel.. Can't rate them enough.. I'm running upto 25psi and no limp mode.. Bus pulls hrd...lower egt's... I'm so impressed with hdp products il probly end up going with there intercooler when mine decides to call quits... I've also upgraded my standard dump pipe to a manter item... I'm sure it's compliments the hdp mods I've done so far... Looking at running a electronic boost switch so I can run boost off the ecu and have control of full manual boost control with Dawes n needle valve setup.. When funds allow il be going 4 inch snorkle and 3 inch exhaust.. Then motor/mechanical wise I think il be happy.. Haha

Cool yell out when you do the snorkel found a mob in China with cheap SS elbows and 45s and stuff.
Blocking the egr will give you full control over boost

Well a quick update.. After weeks of trying to find out the high idle/hrd starting issue and 3 different workshops later... I've been quoted $4250 to get it fixed... They recon it's the injector pump... Soo pissed.. For that coin I would rather save and put that towards a Ls conversion... I like the patrol but there not as tuff and reliable as everyone makes them out to be...my cruiser never let me down once... The thing I don't understand is if it were the injector pump why would the bus run mint once started? No smoke or nothing out the rear... No cut outs or loss of power? How and why would the ip make it idle high... If anything I would had thought either air in the system.. Or a faulty crank angle sensor giving incorrect readings to the ip.. Something small.. And what's the go with the ip prices? They cost more than the engine? And 7 hrs labour to remove and fit new one?

Might be worth looking at fitting a lift pump. There is a thread about it here somewhere. i have hed these symptoms on my work truck Kia 2500, and that was fixed with a new IP but it was only the lift pump end that was faulty. They are two pumps in one really, one pulls the fuel from the tank and one pressurises the fuel for the injectors. if the presurisation wasn't working i don't think it woulod run well at any speed. just get an inline pump from repco or somewhere, about 7 -12 psi, and stick it in lline as close to the fuel tank as posible. then connect it up with a couple of wires to your battery, even plug in to the cig lighter socket, and see if it makes any difference. If that fixes the prob fit it properly.

Big Fletch just did a DIY on the lift pump mod here you go

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...-Lift-Pump-Mod

Ye was researching all last night.. Was going to give the lift pump a try.. It's exactly as u describe 4by4... I think it could be the ip but only part of.. If the whole unit was F$&@d then the car wouldn't even start, idle ruff and drive like crap.. Better try a few more options befor completely giving on her... But I knw I def won't be paying the 4250 just for another ip fitted... I can buy a ls2/ls3 for that price...

Just found a 383 stroker kit for $800 from the states delivered.
My son is giving my cast iron 350 motor to me, not for the patrol though
maybe an early one tonner etc lol

Talked to the bloke at workshop.. Apparently a lift pump will do stuff all... So looks like il just have to deal with the high idle n hrd startn for awhile... Also wired up my reverse lights but it didn't make me feel any bettr...

Attachment 56456

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Originally Posted by mullet_hunter

Talked to the bloke at workshop.. Apparently a lift pump will do stuff all... So looks like il just have to deal with the high idle n hrd startn for awhile... Also wired up my reverse lights but it didn't make me feel any bettr...

Attachment 56456

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It may. But I would be doing it if it were me.

Ye I might have a go at fitting lift pump... Also might be worth trolln gumtree for a cheap 2nd hand injector pump or blown zd30 I can take ip, turbo, ic and injectors off...

I have found a hell of a lot of "mechanic's" dont know diddly-squat about 3l patrols

I think the 2 biggest things for you to investigate is

1) put in the lift pump.......... for ALL the reasons in Big_Fletch's thread - very logical and simple

2) have a look at fitting a second or even a third extra Earth from the motor to the chassis & gearbox to the chassis - worst thing about Patrols is Earths

my old GQ used to play up in Gas, sometimes start, some times not, sometimes run great cold, but not hot, sometimes run great hot, but not cold, relays get power sometimes, sometimes not..... etc
........ could never work out why, one day, while underneath running some cable for Anderson plug, I thought......."mmmm I might put in an extra earth from Gbox to Chassis while I'm here" - well bugger me with a stick, the Gas stopped playing around
and ran beautifully all the time

I had the same problem, ended up tearing a part of the trim to which this didn't help at all.
It came down to constantly opening and closing locking mechanism and opening an closing door mechanism at the same time until it opened, took about 10mins of doing this before the door came free.
Once opened and removing the whole lock mechanism, I found a small part broke inside, a call around to local parts supplier almost gave me a heart attack, I swear they quoted me prices for gold plated locks, after some deep thinking and a can of ale, I ended up heading to Supercheap and buying some small bits an pieces for less than $10, dismantled, replaced bits, reassembled, installed and the lock is working perfect, it will out last all the other locks.
Once I figured out how and what needed to be done, it's a piss easy job now.

its been diagnosed by two diesel specialist both are telling me its the injection pump.. will try a lift pump, try another couple earth straps but def not keen on paying the 4 plus k to get it fixed... i looked at baileys diesel group... they can do a change over unit for $2350.. this might be an option if i cant find a cheap 2nd hand unit..

the carter pump is at least cheapish to do and what have you to lose nothing.
but gain a constant fuel pressure

Hookd up lift pump late last night.. no improvemnt... u win some.. u lose some.. stil not ready to giv up on her jus yet tho..

Bummer not good mate

Ye bit gutted.. but hopefully can pickup a 2nd hand injector pump on the cheap... otherwise save up towards a new baileys pump...

Im a firm believer in that good things come to good ppl.
and you MH IMO are good ppl, it'll work out without
hurting too much.$$$

Couldn't help but notice in one of your pics that the heat switch is on near the switch you put in on drivers side, also known as idle up switch? This isn't still on is it? Just throwing it out there for the high idle problem?

Fletcha

nah bud def not the high idle switch.. thought it might be related but seems to be the injector pump... but on a better note.. managed to find someone who's got a left over zd30 injector pump after doing a 4.2 conversion... after a bit of chit chat i was offered it for $200.. hoping to pick it up in the next week or so... thats got to be a win...been told its done 220k and was working sweet before conversion so at $200 if it doesn't fix my problem i guess I'm not that much out of pocket.. as my diagnostics cost more than that alone.. lol

That's a very good end result I reckon, Can't go wrong with that. Hopefully it fixes it

if it saves me 4k i will be a happy man... heard removing and replacing the injector pump is a pretty big job so I'm researching my little heart out.. lol.. plus if i get stuck got a good mate who will help me out.. i always belive in giving everything a crack urself before forking over hard earned...the only way to learn imo..

ok finally finding time to fix the injector pump in my bus... any tips before i start? also u basically have to pull half the engine apart to get at it so which would be easier pull the engine out or just work on it with the engine still in the bay? take tyres off and put bus on jack stands? or put bus on ramp and work from underneath? cheers and thanks in advance...

Solid day of wrenchn... another solid day tomorrow id sayy...

180k worth of caked up shite.. haha

For all u fallas who think its a carnt ovr job to get the heat shield off... thats nothing compared to getn the injector pump out.. haha.. had to take out radiator shroud.. tappet cover.. vacume pump.. power steering.. main battery.. intake manifold.. intercooler.. glow plug seals.. frnt timing case/chain... cut cable ties off loom to get it out the wayy... injector lines.. egr assembly.. haha pretty much strip everything except exhaust manifold n turbo..