Here is a link to a Red-winch simple and cheap solution https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eokeJokyX9Q
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Here is a link to a Red-winch simple and cheap solution https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eokeJokyX9Q
Clever, simple, like it, thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Figjam
I reassembled the brake and it acted against my hand as if it was being used when twisted in one direction. The winch is back in so will try it tomorrow.
Personally think a welded tag / loop and knot is the simplest and best solution. A figure 8 stopper knot should be able to wind out rope all the way no problems and start winching. Synthetic rope is more slippery on the drum compared to cable and the standard crimp and rivet fittings are pretty piss poor and always let you down when you need it most lol. .
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I made the loop out of an 8mm bolt, so it is plenty strong enough.
This is interesting, not seen that happen before. I always wind my rope back in under some degree of load/tension, mainly as I've always thought that the taught rope will be less susceptible to water & grit ingress while just sitting month after month on the drum. But after seeing that video, having the rope tight on the drum should also stop that problem of the initial force from a winch travelling all the way back through the rope and possibly to the point of connection with the drum.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Another thing I learned about dyneema is to go pull it back and forth across the fairlead as you wind the rope in. This stops it from sinking deep into the layers and getting jammed in there.
How do I remove the clutch fork, when, or before splitting the gearbox? (I've only changed out a few engines with autos)
Hey Muddy sorry to hear about the motor what a bloody bugga. . Pull the motor out first then remove clutch fork if required, if not all good [emoji106] Good luck with it all. .
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Mate, it is looking better than what the inspection camera showed me. On start up, the engine made bad clacking noises and was missing, badly. On pulling the spark plugs on 1 and 2, the gaps were squashed together. The camera showed debris and what I thought was a big dent in the bore, plus vertical scoring. With help from Mrs mudsane and mudnutette, we lifted the head off (with help from a hand winch as well).
I found some battered pieces of sheetmetal about 2-3 long x 1cm wide that have been folded and pounded to a few mm thick. There are a few small dings in the piston crowns. It turns out, that the big dent in the bore was a reflection of the battered metal pieces sitting on the piston. The vertical lines have no depth to them.
I have have vacuumed out the debris. The pistons seem to all come up out of the bore to the same height. The valves on 1 and 2 have many small dings on them.
I need a professional to check every thing to see if all the valves and cam are still serviceable. I just hope that no metal has gotten down between the rings.
At the very least, it will need the head machined, a new head gasket, oil change and filter, coolant and a timing belt.
Got my fingers crossed for you Craig.
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Good news, Folks! The engine builder came over to have a look at the damage. He was happy that the rods were OK. He told me to check the valves by doing the following: rotate the cam until the valves were closed on each cylinder in turn. Fill the ports with petrol and watch for leakage.
All were watertight, except the inlet on #1 cylinder, which wept ever so slightly, which is still good to go.
I am waiting on a head gasket, and will fit it ASAP. Now I just gotta remember where everything goes :)
That’s great mate.
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Hi Craig while the heads off you could clean up the inlet abd outlet ports.
Just rempve any casting marks ans smoooth them out.
Good luck with it mate TD
Thanks, TD. The engine builder port and polished the head, then used his vacuum test bench for maximum flow.
I think it’s time you hung a Garret hair dryer of the side of that engine while it’s apart mate. While your there and big ass blow off valve too! [emoji3]
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Sorry but I have it on good authority he doesn't need it to leave you td boys in the dust lol. Would be off chops though
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Too true Nicco, Craigstar as we all know is a slow & steady Legendary achiever helping all wherever possible [emoji106][emoji106]
Top donation bid too, PM again with address this time for our half way meetup delivery of bar work Muddy Mate!
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I need help, please, to fit a new E locker. If you have experience with fitting the lockers, I will drive to where ever needed in Vic or SA to get it done and will pay for your time. Thank you for your replies.
Which part are you having trouble with Craig???Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Have you tried Trident at the Mount (I know nothing about them)? Heywood Auto (I do know about them), i've been told, have fitted several ARB lockers, I know they're different, but it can be done locally. They send the centres to Portland to get done to them what ever it is that gets done and they install it.
I THINK there is a Harrop mob in Ballarat??
It is just the locker mech I am needing to get done, but I have done a front axle seal before and would prefer someone else to do the heavy stuff and I can assist.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10G
As for the locals, all mechanics I asked have not recommended anyone to fit a locker.
i
I'll PM you.
Still on the lookout for help.
When I got mine fitted I was advised against using the local mob who supply & fit them in Ballarat (TJM?) - fairly or not I don't know - there was talk of apprentices doing a job which needs to be shimmed accurately & a noisy diff resulting.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
I took mine to Harrop in Melbourne. Dropped it off in the morning, they gave me a lift to the train station, I swanned around Melbourne for the day, & they came & collected me from the train station. Service was excellent plus they threw in a few freebies. Cost was the same as I would have had to pay in Ballarat, & I was very happy to know that the job was being done by the folk best to do it. They even phoned me a few days later to check I was happy with the job. That was what? 6 or 7 years ago? Have never had a single problem with the locker, just works when I need it. I recall there was a chap in Ballarat ( Cameron - was on this forum) had one fitted to his car - loved his e-locker but the diff always whined. He had a local workshop install it (not the mob supply them). I think he had a Pajero.
In the midst of dismantling the grill to replace the headlight. All the screws were rusted into place, so I had to pull the grill away from the body, to access the four bolts which hold the whole light assembly in. One bastard broke, so now that has to dealt with. Looking at the vehicle before attempting to replace the sealed beam, I didn't see how rusted the fasteners and mountings were. I will pull both sides out, clean, repaint them and fit stainless steel fasteners. I am so glad I didn't have to try and change a headlight on the side of the road or at a campsite.
Got 16 " Rims and KO2s on order. The Rugged Terrains are at 66000 ks, and are showing signs of age. Still got plenty of tread, though. Unfortunately the don't make them any more, or I would have got them again. Bloody good tyres, especially on sand.
Fitted the rims and KO2s. Gotta say, they are a lot quieter at 100kph than the old tyres. I had the Rugged terrains fitted in 2011. They aren't made any more but I got 69000ks out of them, and if I had of driven more in that time, I probably would have got up 80000 plus. Having a good look at them, the rubber was starting to go hard and there are fine cracks in the valleys between the treads. Also got a good deal with a $150 factory rebate. Every little bit helps.
Yeah my KM2's are probably 7 years old now still with 60% tread on them. I think the rubber has gone off on these and she's quite sketchy now in the wet. I was thinking about the KO's next as I don't think I need a mud terrain tyre. But then I am thinking maybe go for something with a soft compound, as they might stay usable for longer due to the lack of k's my Patrol does. The last two years its done a whisker over 12 thousand.3
What size tyres did you go for Craig?
Because it is basically a tow tug, now, I opted for 265 (31) x 10 and upgraded to 16'' Trak 2 steel. Apparently its easier to get 16" tyres in the country than the old 15". I had a mixture of rims too, so its good to have a full set.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
This is maybe a global thing. It is easier and cheaper to find 16s and 17s around here than a good 15.
I credit that to the fact that no 4x4 truck is sold here with 15" wheels anymore, so the support for such size is going down.