Evo thats great news mate, thanks to your mate who is helping out.
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Evo thats great news mate, thanks to your mate who is helping out.
Good to hear Evo, must be a relief
It has 3" constant load which ends up measuring about 4" over standard (even with accessories).Quote:
Originally Posted by liftlid
I have a bent upper arm to clear the tank on full droop, but the drain plug on the tank is on the back and is in line with a sway bar mount, so with the standard arms, was at risk of fouling.
I'm still not 100% at ease, not until I find out the outcome of today.Quote:
Originally Posted by Apollofish
Cheers
Evo
Ok that explains the arms. U joints can make some ugly noises when stuffed, a lot of the people here giving you advice along those lines
Yeah, sure were, but with my issues, not being able to do it myself, shows how trusting workshops to diagnose issues sometimes doesn't pay...Quote:
Originally Posted by liftlid
But until I hear on the progress today, I'm trying not to get my hopes up too much...
Evo
So the shafts were not removed before or the bloke that did remove them was fwit, if that's the case and you paid him go and get your money backQuote:
Originally Posted by Evo
I would agree with fwit.Quote:
Originally Posted by macca
Was more than one fwit though...
Luckily it didn't cost anything, except the $77 electronic, multi pickup test that diagnosed engine mounts and clutch.
I'll take the $400 for engine mounts on the chin as they were shagged anyway so not really a waste there.
As for the issue, mate has had the Troll in 4H to move it around (as he had taken rear shaft out yesterday to inspect)
So...
Went around this evening to check on progress/collect the troll.
All done, he said take it and see how it goes. He put in new uni joints and put the shaft in backwards (narrow end towards front of car to give more clearance over crossmember)
Smiling like a kid with free run in a lolly shop, jumped in, made sure it was in 2H, and took off down the road.
Seemed fine, until about 80ish kph... Slight rumble...
Hmmm....
Got home, had a look at the front wheels due to gut feeling, manual hubs still locked in.
Turned them to free, went for a drive, so far so good.
Still some noise, there was a little bit of noise after suspension work, but I think that's a combination of mud tyres, lift settling, new uni joints (old mate said they need to settle?), and just the last few weeks of trying to sort this out still pretty fresh in the back of my mind...
Cost under $200, which is so much better than $350-$400 diff inspection, $1200-$1500 diff rebuild, $800 double cardan front shaft, $2500 clutch and flywheel, and a lot off headaches...
Gives me a head start on saving for a future H/D clutch and accompanying bits and pieces.
But anyway, big BIG thanks to everyone who has been following this, and all the input and suggestions in trying to help me out.
Really appreciate it and can definitely say without a doubt, this has to be the best place to be as a Patrol owner, for advice, help, information, and great people.
All things considered, I hope I can be as useful on here as other members, and hope to be around for a while yet.
Cheers
Evo
PS: Just need to start getting out to meet a lot of you guys now...
Awesome news mate! So glad it was a cheap fix for you too. Hope you haven't pulled all your hair out yet....it'll grow back.
That is great news, Evo. Glad it all has been sorted with out busting the bank.
thats great news, you have to be carefull with a 4wd as there are plenty of numptys that think they know what they are doing and then you have a mechanic that does know what they are doing and that makes it easy when you find one like that. anyway now thats done and sorted you could try to make the powerlines saturday evening??
Good result Evo.
Hi Evo, been following this thread with interest, great result I'll bet you're relieved,
Yes indeed. Just wish he was back earlier because he would have been the first port of call...Quote:
Originally Posted by Stropp
As for Powerlines, I wish I could but the missus is working back a bit Saturday and I'll have to pick her up when she's done.
It's like a great weight has been lifted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Apollofish
Feeling pretty good now for the first time in god knows how long....
Evo
No worries evo, thought it would be a good opportunity to catch up and give the old girl a test out to make sure there are no noises but if she is working it will be quiet won't it lol. Whoops we were talking about the car weren't we?
Seems I can stop holding my breath now. PHEW!
Let us know how things are after you've driven it through the settling in period.
I've felt for you throughout this thread, but it has been an informative one for all. Thanks.
Cuppa
Awesome. Great outcome.
Thanks guys...
B U T
It's back..... :furious:
Not as bad as before, was thinking the slip yoke is extended a bit more than its comfortable with, and was considering a spacer to see if that will make a difference.
Thoughts?
Cheers
Evo
Take shaft out and go for a drive, you greased the joint I would assume, unless the joint is stuffed 4 inch lift is usually ok on the rear shaft
It's not so much the lift.Quote:
Originally Posted by liftlid
I think I mentioned in a previous post, there are longer lower trailing arms installed on it that I had not noticed or wasn't aware of.
According to old mate that did the unis, these arms have pushed the diff back a little further, so I'm thinking the difference between the stock arms and these 11mm longer ones is just enough to cause an issue.
On the shaft you can see where the slip yoke dust/grease boot used to be, and form there to current is about 25mm.
I have gone back over when things were fitted and things done, and there was no noticeable problem until after I got it back with these longer lower arms (best I can work out from all my invoices and memory of dates, etc).
I'm leaning to either slip yoke needs just a little more contact, or these lower arms have thrown the pinion angles out a bit (however I'm told and led to believe these longer lower arms are supposed to assist in correcting pinion angles).
Can anyone confirm this?
Cheers
Evo
Hi mate I would have thought longer lower arms would mean a bigger angle, longer upper arms will reduce the angle from the diff to drive shaft???
How does your rear diff pinion angle actually look? If you could visualise the pinion shaft, it should be parallel to gearbox output shaft. When you lift the car they usually point upwards but as you mentioned you've got the longer lower arms. Personally I like the adjustable upper arms as this is an easy way to adjust the pinion angle as opposed to using set length arms.
To me it all looks good how it sits now.
I thought the same thing Stropp, but after some research, apparently they do correct pinion angle.
However, this isn't the main reason the longer lowers were installed. It was to allow more clearance between the rear axle (sway bar bracket) and the drain plug on the long range sub tank.
I have ordered a spacer, supposed to be here between Tuesday and Thursday, then just need to get some longer bolts.
If that doesn't work, out with the spacer and out with the longer arms, standard arms back in and try again...
Evo
I will be interesting to see if this fixes it as a slip joint issue would normally cause a vibration not a grinding noise.
OK so the problems still there?.
Try looking at diff crown and pinion.
When I got my GTR it had been run low on diff oil.
breather was bad design, oil blew out breather to easily.
any way that had shagged the bearings.
new bearings didn't fix it completely and once bearings settled in it returned some-what, no way as bad but still there.
my description hollow howl guess you could described it as grinding.
unfortunately damage extent was also to the lap on crown and pinion.
only fix was to have crown and pinion relapped and diff reset again.
Ohh and noise increased with speed like you describe.
"separate note".
in the drift world the diff housing angle is changed upwards or down to decrease or increase wheel grip.
my therory,
4" lift will have the similar affect up wards increase in angle, this may put undue strain on diff bearings crown and pinion.
not saying Im correct just a little thing that had crossed my mind as a possibility.
In pic the sub frame is what houses the diff so changing that angle changes the diff angle.
It has something to do with how the diff loads up and then transfers the torque to the ground.
going by pic, diff angle down loads the diff for more traction at the wheels = added strain on differential assembly.
food for thought,hope this helps.
something that I noticed also.
a raised pinion lowers, (tips) the filler plug downwards.
That equalls less oil in diff housing.
Hey guys, bit more of an update, installed the spacer, made sure there is enough play on the splines so that there would be no bottoming out of the slip joint, if anything, the noise/rumble,is less evident, but still there.
Just about had enough of it so at the point where I'm going to just keep driving it until something gives.
Evo
Not sure if anyone is following this anymore, been a while since any new info.
For those that have been or still are keeping an eye on things, issue rectified.
Cheers,
Evo
that's great can you say one way or another what the actual cause was.
Nice to hear.Quote:
Originally Posted by Evo
And the fix was????
Lower trailing arms...
Standard ones put back in, smooth sailing...
Evo
WoW! So much effort & money spent, for something so simple. I feel your pain mate. Its hard to pinpoint these things sometimes & its just a matter or trial & error i guess. Glad you fixed the problem tho mate.