Rear Recovery Point in Tow Hitch

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by the ferret

And ya can forget this one too, anyone who sells these has no concience, this can rip the towball off and send that and the shackle at 300ks/hr in one side of your head and out the other, through the back window and another 60 meters, then it will stop, hit the ground and then others will see some of your BRAINS fall off.
I suggest anyone looking at recovery hooks, shackles, straps and towing eyes, to do some research on this forum and any others where you can find the info needed to make a safe purchase.
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...allshackle.jpg

---

look at the rating on the package

4.8 tonnes W.L.L ..........WILL ..LETHALLY ..LETGO

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nowoolies

sorry mate
i would`nt touch one with a barge pole (billet and shackle)
all my shackle gear is auzzie made and ....stamped
iv`e seen a couple of failures no one hurt but vehicles damaged
just my 2 cents

---

I think we've got our wires crossed no wollies, by billet and shackle I mean the solid block that goes into the hitch receiver (billet) and shackle

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Silver

I think we've got our wires crossed no wollies, by billet and shackle I mean the solid block that goes into the hitch receiver (billet) and shackle

---

sorry mate i thought you were talking about the one above

Now here we have the ever erupting what's right and what's wrong.

Receiver and pin only; will withstand most general recoveries at a straight pull with most general recovery straps. Endeavour Rally only accepts this type to be used no possible missiles in strap if any thing does go wrong. All welding is to boiler maker trade certificate certified for receivers front and rear must be fitted.

Bow shackles rated are actually rated for load strain not instant snap strain.

the Billet steel recovery point and bow shackle are a safe angle pull option as long as all weight factors are calculated, so to reduce the chances of bow shackles breaking and becoming missiles.

The Factory Nissan recovery point is actually stronger than most people think. They are not mild steel,(I can't remember what steel it is) (but I could find out) and the hook is actually baked and cool to create strength. QNPC is happy to use them in snatches.

So in summary I can use all three methods and all so carry a snatch dampner blanket. I don't think any of these are wrong, but all are right, as long as all safety concerns are eliminated or, the very least reduced. Three people only involved in the snatch; The recovery vehicle driver, the stuck vehicle driver, and a caller standing in safe zone.


Tim

I purchased one of these from supacheep today $40. I hope to never need to use it. It's all stamped with ... WLL. Its a solid bit of kit and heavier than some things I use on the tractor. Snatch straps have always scared me ... but ... you never know. I carry a tractor drag chain with me anyway :-)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by twisty

I purchased one of these from supacheep today $40. I hope to never need to use it. It's all stamped with ... WLL. Its a solid bit of kit and heavier than some things I use on the tractor. Snatch straps have always scared me ... but ... you never know. I carry a tractor drag chain with me anyway :-)

---

hello Twisty, better to be alert, but not alarmed, than too relaxed with tools that can maim or kill. You'll be right with that sensible attitude.

I've only ever snatched lightly bogged vehicles - but have seen Patrol/Cruiser snatched out of 'quicksand' bogged down to the chassis on a DVD from a national 4wd mag. And it looked like they were having a fair old go :-) Not for me.

I have some supercheap stuff myself. I do wonder about the quality control of some stuff - not necessarily from there.

I have seen at a general auto store, a 4.7 WLL rated shackle, or so the casting said, but there was insufficient thread in the shackle for the pin- it just floated. I suppose it could still have been 4.7WLL, but it did make me wonder :-) I'm not saying that you'd necessarily get anything better at a 4wd store, but you'd hope so.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Finly Owner

Now here we have the ever erupting what's right and what's wrong.

Receiver and pin only; will withstand most general recoveries at a straight pull with most general recovery straps. Endeavour Rally only accepts this type to be used no possible missiles in strap if any thing does go wrong. All welding is to boiler maker trade certificate certified for receivers front and rear must be fitted.

Bow shackles rated are actually rated for load strain not instant snap strain.

the Billet steel recovery point and bow shackle are a safe angle pull option as long as all weight factors are calculated, so to reduce the chances of bow shackles breaking and becoming missiles.

The Factory Nissan recovery point is actually stronger than most people think. They are not mild steel,(I can't remember what steel it is) (but I could find out) and the hook is actually baked and cool to create strength. QNPC is happy to use them in snatches.

So in summary I can use all three methods and all so carry a snatch dampner blanket. I don't think any of these are wrong, but all are right, as long as all safety concerns are eliminated or, the very least reduced. Three people only involved in the snatch; The recovery vehicle driver, the stuck vehicle driver, and a caller standing in safe zone.


Tim

---

yeah, I think better a hook that straightens before tearing out than a chunk of metal that comes along with the strap. However, I wanted something on both rails and a bridle, hence the after market plates for the Mighty Mav. Cost a few buck, though :-)

Well i purchased one of the billet/shackle jobs yesterday. I have decided to use it for heavier pulls where needed. When in doubt ive been told if the load is to big to snatch then i need to dig more. lol.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by plasnart

i agree with bob about the drag chain being preferred. Simple, strong and much much safer than a snatch. Also agree with et that snatching should be done only as a last resort after all other recovery techniques have failed. Get ya shovel out, or get ya max trax out and spend the time getting unstuck properly. That's all part of 4x4ing.

Also, why is it these days that the snatch is seen as the primary recovery method? Didn't have them years ago when people simply towed someone out of a pickle with a chain or tow rope/strap. My 2c.

---

i 2 have a drag chain i use not sure about a snatch strap
as plassy said if it did brake they drop

I have never admitted to having my set of chains. First chain is 2 chain sling of 8mm machinery chain on Ring with slip hooks on the other end. Then I have two single one with snip a snip hook on each to use as anchor chains. And a 3rd one with a slip hook and a 3.5t bow shackle for "justin". These are used for gentle slow tugs and consistant weight tow. I also carru two straps that are not "Snatch straps" but will assist in emergencies, as they have an eye in only 1 end each and can be anchored by the correct hitching methods.


Tim