i bought mine from Opposite Lock. they were $105 for the pair (GU4 onwards). I had to buy a extra pair of HT bolts as well (used the hook ones for one side), I needed to go to Coventry Fasteners for those, and they were $10 for the pair.
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i bought mine from Opposite Lock. they were $105 for the pair (GU4 onwards). I had to buy a extra pair of HT bolts as well (used the hook ones for one side), I needed to go to Coventry Fasteners for those, and they were $10 for the pair.
Attaching mine and some other pix from the net (specs from some african countries as well as middle east I think). I think in this particular patrol configaration, only rear pintle hook was standard offer. There are no other hooks or plates on the rear. To put anything else I will have to drill new holes as the rear steel bumber as seen is pics has used all factory drilled holes. One can use same holes , but if I were to keep the bumper, than access would be restricted!
THanks Silver, I read that somewhere as well, I looked and looked for those test results, but I could not find it. You must have a better memory than me.
Well, all this info has made the decision for me !! Stay out of the mud and I wont need to be recovered !!! Less confusion that way.
all the chassis steel and mouting points will damage if your really in there. even that nice big shiny tow hook will straighten. as always proceed with causion when recovering. my advise is to get more creative with the grinder and welder, add steel and use rated lifting eyelets instead of those bendy hook things. cheers
A hook that straightens rather than breaks or comes free because of bolt failure is probably a good thing if it straightens at the expected load.
I had a look at rated lifting eyelets, admittedly only one site, and I know that lifting safe working loads are very conservative, but what si2e and quality eyelet do you need for better than a strap with an 8000kg fail rating? Bearing in mind we don't want an eyelet and a shackle coming free?