DIY - TB45E turbo install

Some miscellaneous stuff..

A really good accessory to have is a wideband gauge that indicates your air/fuel ratios under different conditions. With a turbocharger added, this becomes indispensable, IMO.
I chose the Innovate MTX-L. It also has a narrowband signal output that I'm using connected to the ECU in place of the factory sensor signal for closed loop operation.

I mounted it here with my trans temp gauge:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...psed1d1b58.jpg

I welded a bung into the exhaust ~400mm before the cat - where the extractors form a single pipe. I'll use the same location for the turbo.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...psb46a4aea.jpg


One of my biggest concerns is detonation. There's no doubt that this has been the cause of most TB45E turbo issues with connecting rods.
Sure, you can strip your engine and beef it all up with stronger components. It's all a question of how far you want to go with it power wise and how much money you want to throw at it.
This is a thread about a low boost budget install so it's going to be using stock internals and we're going to do our best to keep that engine safe by other means..

Enter the visual knock detection device. These are sold on Ebay by a guy in Lithuania who makes them himself. They have good write-ups and my friend Jose in Panama confirms they work well with the TB45E factory knock sensor.
They will show a green LED when all's good and progressive orange LEDs when knock begins then a bigger really bright red LED when knock occurs.
I plan to use it as a visual aid i.e. have it more or less in line of sight so I can lift off when required.

I paid $20 extra to get the 5v output signal with it so if it indicates regular knocking, I'll log it to see why and when it's happening and adjust the Xede accordingly.

This is the size compared to my phone:

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...ps906e573d.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scottmeister

It would still be a good idea to utilise a restriction orifice. By supplying only just as much oil as is needed, you reduce bearing windage and thus experience significantly improved spool speeds. By all means -3AN is better than -4AN, but I imagine the bearings are seeing too much volume AND pressure than is required by some excess. It also reduces the risk blowing oil through the seals if a pressure spike is seen for whatever reason (i.e. cold start, new heavier oil, over-rev...).

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I hear what your saying , i thought what i was told sounded logical which put simply was the small ID of the -3an braid is a restriction in itself, once the oil reaches the bearings case of the turbo it will loose a significant amount of pressure and unless the oil drain blocks up it shouldn't pressurize the bearing case. With the 1mm restrictor the oil will loose its pressure after the restrictor into the -4an braid, if there isn't a natural downward slope in the braid you would potentially be starving the bearings of oil which is not only for lubricating them but also to help assist with cooling aswell. Like i said thats my take on what i was told and coz it made sense i didn't question it, i could be wrong and happy to be corrected by the more knowledgable :)

Sorry for the hijack

The restrictor screws directly into the CHRA.
There should be full pressure in the braided hose until it gets to the restrictor.

On the GT35R, the oil feed orifice itself (i.e. where the restrictor screws in) would be no bigger than 3/16" (-3AN) anyway.

In one of the pics I posted this morning where there's a closeup showing the 2 black -4AN elbows, the bright silver union with the copper washer is the actual restrictor. It's a -4AN cone with a 1mm hole in it.

Ok sorry my mistake, i thought it went into the block not the turbo

If you need to go to bigger injectors, most of the Nissan side feed models will fit i.e. they go into the TB45E fuel rail and the O-rings, although thicker, will seal in the TB45E cups.
One difference I've noticed is that the bigger injectors have a 3mm plastic border (as shown in the pic here) that doesn't fit inside the TB45E cup so the metal cap can be overtightened if you're not careful.

The solution I used was to fit 5mm nuts in the space - 2nd pic

370cc injector from a RB25DET Skyline on the left. Standard TB45E injector on the right.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...psd4f68b93.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...psd71ed6fa.jpg


I found 6 of these 370cc injectors on Gumtree for $30 including the Skyline fuel rail.
As the local auto elec wanted $35 each to clean them, I set them up in the original fuel rail and ran pressurised kerosene through them. Spray pattern was good on each of them.
I've since removed them so I can first test if the original injectors really need to be replaced with the low boost.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jff45

The restrictor screws directly into the CHRA.
There should be full pressure in the braided hose until it gets to the restrictor.

On the GT35R, the oil feed orifice itself (i.e. where the restrictor screws in) would be no bigger than 3/16" (-3AN) anyway.

In one of the pics I posted this morning where there's a closeup showing the 2 black -4AN elbows, the bright silver union with the copper washer is the actual restrictor. It's a -4AN cone with a 1mm hole in it.

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Replying to my own post because I came across a pic of the restrictor I bought while I was searching for something else so thought I'd add it to the documentation..

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...psab674002.png

Great build mate and very informative.
I think even at. 3 bar you will have a good increase.. Sure it won't burn rubber of 35's but will be nice.
I hope to do my td42 soon.
I'll be stealing your intercooler frame idea for sure ;-)

Jff45.
You are a legend.
For a guy thats 68 you really know whats going.
Thanks for all your posts as I am following it from the Beginning .
All this pics and info answered all my questions and doubt that I had to go to a turbo.
You convinced me To do the same.

I have a few questions.
Do you really need to replace the injectors?
And can you please give me the place that you bought the manifold from contact details. Email address if you have it.

And thanks again.
I want to run 0.3 as well.

^^x2 what he said!
Great thread mate. I've been thinking about running a low pressure turbo on the old TB42e in mine and has really got me thinking about how I'd go about it.

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dampies

I have a few questions.
Do you really need to replace the injectors?
And can you please give me the place that you bought the manifold from contact details. Email address if you have it.

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I found the manifold fabricator on Ebay. His name is Keed80 but I don't know if he's still active. He was making TD42T manifold copies but I wanted the T3 flange more in the centre to allow more room for the dump - especially with the TI model with the extra A/C lines going to the rear.
He's an awful communicator but an excellent welder.

My research suggests that the factory 270cc injectors should be adequate for up to ~6 psi boost.
The advantage of keeping them is better idling and better closed loop running which is where the engine will spend most of its time.
The danger is leaning out if you get too close to their limits which could happen if you run into over boost or boost creep issues.

Once I get mine running, I'll do some tests swapping in the 370cc injectors to see how much the ECU can alter its fuel trims to cope and how much I'll need to scale them back with the Xede adjustments.