So the the old GUrl is up for new suspension. Torn between 3 or 4inch.

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Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy

What question?

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this one....

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Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie

Why did Simon (ARB) insist on me getting 4 inch shocks to go with a 3 inch lift???

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Mark... Why are you going 3 inch? For the driving you do, 2 inch would be plenty.

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Originally Posted by Winnie

Mark... Why are you going 3 inch? For the driving you do, 2 inch would be plenty.

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That bit of extra height is always good isn't it? Besides the whole suspension is rooted. I might aswell go a bit different. If this wasn't my daily driver I would just go 4 and be done with it.

I dislike the whole concept of Longer lower trailing arms as the solution for adjusting the pinion angle. It's illogical! It is mathematically incorrect in my head.

So one of the reasons for changing the length of the trailing arms also is to provide guard clearance when the vehicle articulates and the tyres go up into the wheel arch. The wheel arch on a gu is huge so it's not that big a deal for you. By increasing the length of the power arms you arm risking the tyre as hong into the Back of the wheel arch on the way up.

I have read plenty with this problem so they trim guards......WTF??? Fit standardlength arms and you don't create this problem??

Illogical! Fit longer trailing arms, cause rear wheel arch damage, trim guards. Or run standard length and have no issues.

Fitting 10mm longer arms is not the same as. Bene"s Long Arms. That is a whole other conversation. Completely different logic involved there.

Thanks Darren that makes sense...So the upper arms need to be shorter yes? No longer.... :tongue:

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Originally Posted by mudski

Thanks Darren that makes sense...So the upper arms need to be shorter yes?

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Yes I would go adjustable uppers and HD standard length lowers.

I have Superiors 4140 Chromoly lower trailing arms on both cars. No brainer addition.

I would expect the longer lower arms to bring the wheelbase to where it should be

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Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy

I would expect the longer lower arms to bring the wheelbase to where it should be

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Aw Gawd!!!! That what I was thinking but geometry and me aren't the best of friends.

I'll get the adjustable uppers first. Leave the lowers for now and instal the lift. I'm going away on the weekend after this Past Mansfield. I'll see what its like.

So as to getting 4inch shocks? O.k? I should be measuring the travel first though I'm thinking...

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Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy

I would expect the longer lower arms to bring the wheelbase to where it should be

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I don't disagree with that Bene at all. At ride height they probably do reposition the rear diff back maybe 6 or 7mm allowing for the radius of the trailing arm at a increased angle. My bitch with it though is what it does to the wheel base as soon as it flexes, at that point it fully increases the wheel base by the whole 10mm or 16mm depending on the length you buy and all of that is Behind the Rear Diff and all of it risks impact with the rear of the guards.

I am not sure what the 6 or 7mm correction will provide in terms of handling benefits? Some? Maybe? The down side of that though is there and it's just as real. IMO. I know you have you head around the Geometry far better than I do mate and would be happy to hear what your thoughts are on the 6mm versus the 10mm on compression?

You will also get some of that wheel base correction when you adjust the upper arms to drop the pinion down again. Maybe half the loss I'd reckon?