Where are you located mate? No one has mentioned anything about the auto side of things. What sort of condition is the oil? Do you know what the flow is like through the cooler section of the radiator? Also are all shrouds, splash guards and the rubbers between chassis and body in place and in good condition?
The fan shroud and associated covers will cause the temp to stay slightly higher but not cause it to overheat. If the auto trans cooler was blocked thevauto would be slipping and or thre auto would have blown
23rd April 2014, 11:18 PM
dannypatrol
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alitis007
When the coolant temperature goes over 96*C the a/c clutch disengages to take some load off from the motor to try and not heat it up any further.
From the video i could hear your fanbelts were noisy because they are dry and cracked ( i think you said they were cracked) and just hear a noisy tappet but ever so slightly which is nothing to be alarmed about.
At a guess, in my opinion i think you may have a partially blocked radiator because your fault is similar to when my radiator was blocked. My temperature never moved from where it normally sits unless i was driving thru steep hilly roads or off road where the motor was put under heavier than normal loads. On normal roads i would hear the a/c thermal ( electric) fan come on even if the a/c wasn't on but also if i drove for longer than 30 mins i would hear the water in the radiator bubbling when i turned the motor off.
If you have told us everything thats what i think it could be. Its not hard to remove the radiator ( it shouldn't take more than 30 mins tops!) but you will need to take it to a radiator shop to have the tanks removed and the core cleaned. It shouldn't cost more than $150 so call around first and see who will be the cheapest.
Cheers! I got a new fan belt just have to look up how to replace it.
I hope you are right about the blocked radiator. I have only heard the water boiling those two times. I will keep my fingers crossed that it isnt a cracked head