Cruising on the hwy mate in 5th....Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
so is the turbo stuffed or not?
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Cruising on the hwy mate in 5th....Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
so is the turbo stuffed or not?
Turbo is rooted. I'm 99% sure. Listening to it through the snorkle it's making rackety, loose change noise ... Just haven't had a chance to take it to the mechanic yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Just reading your post, and was thinking about your power prob, if you are already at max boost (17 psi) makes me think it's not your turbo. Just a thought mate and I'm no expert that's for sure. Is it blowing smoke when you've got the boot in it?
No smoke at all, as far as I can tell. My turbo is stuffed I know that. Whether it is the cause of my power issues, is another story. I could have a rooted turbo, and another problem, which is more than likely.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paule
Well if the turbo has been confirmed as stuffed. I'd be changing this and then come back to this issue. If it still exists after a turbo change...
Yeah I agree with mudski, if turbo bloke has told you that it's stuffed then I would be changing it. You don't want to be creating other issues.
Hahahaha would you do the vice up quickly or slowly. That quote cracked me upQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Which ever way mate it would be bloody painfull. Not as painful as the bill though...
I wonder if that noise you are hearing is actually turbo noise and I'd like to know how did the turbo specialist determined it to be stuffed? Did he take the intake pipe/hose off and checked the compressor wheel for damage, checked axial clearance of the shaft/turbine?
Also what happens when you disconnect vac control so the turbo vanes are backed off, does the noise persist or is it gone? Is it possible you have a intermittent vacuum leak hence the turbo control can suffer?
Proper diagnosis require some spanner time not just listening to the thing unless it is so loud that it is obvious.
If the turbo is damaged check the seal under the air cleaner lid as that one deteriorates over the time, dust can get in past the filter and grind away the compressor wheel over the period of time.
This inconsistency suggest there is more to it than just one thing.
CrD ZD30 uses both MAF and MAP sensors to calculate fuel quantities, so are those values read correctly by the ECU? Also low fuel rail pressure can be indicating some issue.
Do you have access to Scangauge or cheap OBDII adapter? You can than read the sensor values and see for yourself what changes when it works and when not?
Don't discount the typical electronics "wrong input=wrong output". OBDII scanners are invaluable when diagnosing intermittent issues, the ones with data logging capabilities are even better.
Because your issue seems to be so intermittent I'd tend to think towards electronic/electrical gremlins not mechanical stuff which is more or less consistent when it fails.
CrD units have also a lot of problems with bad earthing so extra earth lead between the body and chassis is very beneficial.
Cheers
just random thoughts and clutching at straws here , but is your car manual or auto . my gu7 is manual and at 100kph in 4th it sits around 3000 rpm with standard tyres . if your tyres are a larger diameter this would be a slightly lower rpm . if you car is manual and is only doing about 85kph at 3000 rpm then i would think that you would have a clutch problem ? possibly the other problem you are sensing ?