problem starting in park with Auto transmission

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Originally Posted by ckh

Might look at getting a proper service done in the next few months, as I couldnt see or find any "filter" when I had the sump off, plus engraved in the sump was the name of an auto place and the date of 27-11-97, so might have been a while since its had a service and needs belts tensioned and adjusted etc....

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Im not sure on what the older gq's tranny looks like, but the auto in mine gu (i think they are very similar) the filter is a flat metal filter, right in the middle. it has 4 or 5 bolts holding it in from memory.

Keep in mind that when you changed your oil you only changed about 50%. the reason being the majority of the oil is in the torque converter and doesnt get released unless you remove the converter, which requires removing the enitre box. Dont get me wrong, if your oil was cactus the change will be good for it. The auto takes about 12L of oil from dry, and i would assume you took out about 5-6L, better then no change, but still pays to get it done by a pro.

Some mechcanical workshops have a machine they can hook up to change all the Auto fluid without removing the box/converter, (automatic transmission fluid change machine), you disconnect a cooler line and connect machine to both open ends.

This machine captures the old auto fluid, and replaces it with new fluid while the car is running, so refreshes whats in the converter as well as whats in the pan , you still need to pull the pan off to replace the strainer/filter tho.

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Originally Posted by Alitis007

Hard shift between 1 and 2 could be shift solenoid or your tps is out of adjustment, before you go spending $$$ on a service try a nulon auto transmission treatment to try and soften the seals to ease the shift.

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Did as you said put nulon additive in now torque converter wont lock up, spoke to a traany specialist and he pulled a strange face when i told him I put nulon in, he said its tooooo slippery for a transmission with an auto locking torque converter, at around 85-90 I get a shudder like its trying to lock up, but then it gives up, so now on the highway my engine is 600RMP higher than when it used to lock up at 100, at 100 it would sit on 1800RPM now its sitting on 2400RPM Am going to do a complete flush of the tranny today hoping that will fix it and that in the last 600K's I've done I havent burnt out the clutch type thing in it. Just pulled the dip stick out and not sure if it was a burnt smell but it didnt smell right, just hope I havent gone frpom a slight bump to a stuffed tranny now...

Mate that nulon additive wont cause the auto to play up, i have used it in may cars with auto locking and solenoid locking converters and never had a problem. Some people like pentrite and others like the nulon just a personal preference. You could have had a hidden fault and now its starting to show it self.

If you want you can service and flush the auto your self but you will need to buy a 20ltr container of dextron 3. How i flush the auto is,
1. Drain the oil( i think there might be a drain plug on the sump) remove the pan and change the filter. I recommend you buy a kit with a paper gasket coz the cork ones can leak and you can tear the gasket if you over tighten the bolts.
2. Clean the pan and remember were the magnet sits, wipe it clean with thinners or acetone and tap the bolt holes down so they are flat again. Wipe the surface where the gasket sits again.
3. Buy some Permatex 3 aviation sealant to coat the surface of the pan where the gasket sits with a light film so it doesn't spill into the pan fit the gasket and coat the other side of that.
4. Wipe the auto were the gasket will sit with thinners or acetone and quickly fit the pan coz oil will run onto the surface it you take too long.
5. Fill the auto to the FULL HOT mark.
6. Find yourself another empty 20ltr container and remove a trans cooler hose.
7. Now you will need two people for the rest of this procedure, start the car and turn it off and see which way the auto pumps the fluid. You want the oil to flow thru the cooler/ coolers.
8. Once you have found the flow hold the hose into the empty container and start the car and put into Drive so the auto pumps the oil out, the oil at first will come out in a thick stream after 5 or 10 seconds it should start to become less so turn off the car. MAKE SURE YOU TURN THE CAR OFF AS SOON AS THE OIL STREAM IS NOT THICK OR YOU WILL BURN THE AUTO OUT.
9. Repeat step 8 until the oils clean a redish pink color and refit the cooler hose and refill the auto to full hot start the car get your helper to start the car and hold it in Drive check you oil level so its on the LOW HOT mark then take it for a 5 min drive and re check your oil level.

Take it on the free way and see how it locks up, in economy it should lock up at around 75 80 in power around 90 100, hope this helps

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alitis007

Mate that nulon additive wont cause the auto to play up, i have used it in may cars with auto locking and solenoid locking converters and never had a problem. Some people like pentrite and others like the nulon just a personal preference. You could have had a hidden fault and now its starting to show it self.

If you want you can service and flush the auto your self but you will need to buy a 20ltr container of dextron 3. How i flush the auto is,
1. Drain the oil( i think there might be a drain plug on the sump) remove the pan and change the filter. I recommend you buy a kit with a paper gasket coz the cork ones can leak and you can tear the gasket if you over tighten the bolts.
2. Clean the pan and remember were the magnet sits, wipe it clean with thinners or acetone and tap the bolt holes down so they are flat again. Wipe the surface where the gasket sits again.
3. Buy some Permatex 3 aviation sealant to coat the surface of the pan where the gasket sits with a light film so it doesn't spill into the pan fit the gasket and coat the other side of that.
4. Wipe the auto were the gasket will sit with thinners or acetone and quickly fit the pan coz oil will run onto the surface it you take too long.
5. Fill the auto to the FULL HOT mark.
6. Find yourself another empty 20ltr container and remove a trans cooler hose.
7. Now you will need two people for the rest of this procedure, start the car and turn it off and see which way the auto pumps the fluid. You want the oil to flow thru the cooler/ coolers.
8. Once you have found the flow hold the hose into the empty container and start the car and put into Drive so the auto pumps the oil out, the oil at first will come out in a thick stream after 5 or 10 seconds it should start to become less so turn off the car. MAKE SURE YOU TURN THE CAR OFF AS SOON AS THE OIL STREAM IS NOT THICK OR YOU WILL BURN THE AUTO OUT.
9. Repeat step 8 until the oils clean a redish pink color and refit the cooler hose and refill the auto to full hot start the car get your helper to start the car and hold it in Drive check you oil level so its on the LOW HOT mark then take it for a 5 min drive and re check your oil level.

Take it on the free way and see how it locks up, in economy it should lock up at around 75 80 in power around 90 100, hope this helps

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Although the auto specialist said i would be pissing in the wind doing a flush, I did, exactly as you said above 20ltr container from repco, cost me 145, just took it for a drive and doing exactly same thing, first time i take it up to around 90 felt a shudder like it was trying to lock up lasted about 5-10 seconds then stopped, the tranny guy said the damage is already done, he is going to test it on the 9th which is the earliest i can get it booked in, and testing will be around 100, its just a killer at the moment not locing up on the highway as it used to sit on 1800 doing 100 now its around 2400 doing a hunred, and I can tell the fuel economy is nearly halved...

A mate is trying to talk me into converting it to a manual, but thats going to cost 2K+ the tranny guy said he cant give me a fixed price on a rebuild if necessary until he takes the box off and see whats what and in what condition inside, he said the highest he ever charged anyone for a full rebuild was 3600. Do I grin and bear it and if needed get it fixed somehow, if I have to take out a loan or whatever, or should I look at start selling the truck, I’m confused and depressed, as if I sell the truck I could be getting something that’s going to give me even more grief, if I get it fixed, basically it’s got a new motor and gearbox in it and I’d be right for the major stuff for the next 20 years + if I looked after it. Driving around town the torque locker doesn’t kick in until ya get to 80-85-90ish, so around town won’t be any different now compared to if it was working perfectly, its only on the highway it’s going to kill me in fuel more so and do possible more damage to the gear box…

[QUOTE=ckh;308276]Although the auto specialist said i would be pissing in the wind doing a flush, I did, exactly as you said above 20ltr container from repco, cost me 145, just took it for a drive and doing exactly same thing, first time i take it up to around 90 felt a shudder like it was trying to lock up lasted about 5-10 seconds then stopped, the tranny guy said the damage is already done, he is going to test it on the 9th which is the earliest i can get it booked in, and testing will be around 100, its just a killer at the moment not locing up on the highway as it used to sit on 1800 doing 100 now its around 2400 doing a hunred, and I can tell the fuel economy is nearly halved...

A mate is trying to talk me into converting it to a manual, but thats going to cost 2K+ the tranny guy said he cant give me a fixed price on a rebuild if necessary until he takes the box off and see whats what and in what condition inside, he said the highest he ever charged anyone for a full rebuild was 3600. Do I grin and bear it and if needed get it fixed somehow, if I have to take out a loan or whatever, or should I look at start selling the truck, I

example of difference in highway running at 2400 rpm instead of 1800rpm, only got 350 out of last tank instead of usual 450+

If ur hard set on a manual buy a wreck of a truck with a blown motor so you have all the gear but this time of year you will pay thru the nose for everything but your best bet is to get a second hand auto, it will be the cheaper option.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alitis007

If ur hard set on a manual buy a wreck of a truck with a blown motor so you have all the gear but this time of year you will pay thru the nose for everything but your best bet is to get a second hand auto, it will be the cheaper option.

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I prefer auto, I just commented that a mate was trying to talk me into converting to manual...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alitis007

Mate that nulon additive wont cause the auto to play up, i have used it in may cars with auto locking and solenoid locking converters and never had a problem. Some people like pentrite and others like the nulon just a personal preference. You could have had a hidden fault and now its starting to show it self.

If you want you can service and flush the auto your self but you will need to buy a 20ltr container of dextron 3. How i flush the auto is,
1. Drain the oil( i think there might be a drain plug on the sump) remove the pan and change the filter. I recommend you buy a kit with a paper gasket coz the cork ones can leak and you can tear the gasket if you over tighten the bolts.
2. Clean the pan and remember were the magnet sits, wipe it clean with thinners or acetone and tap the bolt holes down so they are flat again. Wipe the surface where the gasket sits again.
3. Buy some Permatex 3 aviation sealant to coat the surface of the pan where the gasket sits with a light film so it doesn't spill into the pan fit the gasket and coat the other side of that.
4. Wipe the auto were the gasket will sit with thinners or acetone and quickly fit the pan coz oil will run onto the surface it you take too long.
5. Fill the auto to the FULL HOT mark.
6. Find yourself another empty 20ltr container and remove a trans cooler hose.
7. Now you will need two people for the rest of this procedure, start the car and turn it off and see which way the auto pumps the fluid. You want the oil to flow thru the cooler/ coolers.
8. Once you have found the flow hold the hose into the empty container and start the car and put into Drive so the auto pumps the oil out, the oil at first will come out in a thick stream after 5 or 10 seconds it should start to become less so turn off the car. MAKE SURE YOU TURN THE CAR OFF AS SOON AS THE OIL STREAM IS NOT THICK OR YOU WILL BURN THE AUTO OUT.
9. Repeat step 8 until the oils clean a redish pink color and refit the cooler hose and refill the auto to full hot start the car get your helper to start the car and hold it in Drive check you oil level so its on the LOW HOT mark then take it for a 5 min drive and re check your oil level.

Take it on the free way and see how it locks up, in economy it should lock up at around 75 80 in power around 90 100, hope this helps

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ok changed the filter today although look at the old one, it didnt look clogged and could run fluid through it with no restriction. nothing on magnet since last time i had it off a fortnight ago,put pan back on and filled it up. took it fdor a test drive and still wont lock up. when i had the pan off check and double checked for any loose or disconntect wires. might try running a wire as suggested to manually engage the lock up and see how that goes.

am leaning towards the converter it self is stuffed, but the tranny guy on the 9th should be able to tell me ya or nah when he does his diagnostics.
has any one else got any other ideas?