Polished alloy front bar boss ... black RHS and tube on the rear bar, with stainless checker plate flooring .... sexy indeed!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by KRISTOFFA
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Polished alloy front bar boss ... black RHS and tube on the rear bar, with stainless checker plate flooring .... sexy indeed!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by KRISTOFFA
You will need a specific primer filler for the 2pac but the paint shop can help you there. A etch primer should be fine for the bare metal then use the correct filler primer for the 2pac once again paint shop will be the best for this product then top coat will come up schmick
I'll do my best to answer all this as clearly as possable but your questions are very open.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigrig
1. This depends on a few things. If there is bare metal everywhere you need an etch primer over the bare metal and 3 to 4 coats of 2 pack primer over the top. If there isn't a great deal of bare metal everywhere then it's perfectly fine just to prime over small rub thoughs as most 2 pack primers are self etching to bare metal anyway.
With the colour this depends on whether your painting the car in a solid colour, Clear over solid base (COSB), metallic or pearl (COB). If your just painting an old bomb in the back yard then painting it in a solid colour is fine. If your painting it in medium solid (MS) then 1 medium coat and one wet coat is fine. If your painting it in High solid (HS) or very high solid (VHS) then a tack coat and one wet coat is all that's needed. Any more then these recommendations will result in runs and solvent boil.
If your painting it in a COB or COSB then 3 to 5 coats of base colour and then a clear is required. Again as mentioned above for MS clear one medium coat and one wet coat and for HS or VHS clear one tack coat and one wet coat.
2. You need 3 to 4 coats because the primer is designed to fill small imperfections and when blocked down it helps level out paint and bog edges which aren't always noticeable to the naked eye but as soon as you put colour on them they stand out. You want to be able to rub this down without to many rub thoughs to whats under the primer. This can cause shrinkage at a later date which highlights the rub though at a later date.
3. The primer needs to be guide coated and to be sanded back with 400 wet with a block first all over. Once this is done it then needs to re guide coated and rubbed down with 800 wet all over but without a block this time. Also don't rub with your fingers on the flat surfaces or it will show up when you put colour over the top. There are dry rubbing options for rubbing primer but without the right safety gear and know how this will only end in disaster.lol
4. This was answered above. As for the COBs and COSBs (base colours) that can be between 3 to 5 coats depending on the coverage. Some reds can take 5 coats to cover and some other colours such as dark blues can take 3 coats.
5. All my answers have been for 2 pack baked enamel not air dry enamel. Don't get these confused.
2 pack paints vary a lot. Most base coats (COB & COSB) are about 60% paint to 40% reducer.
Medium solid colours and clears are usually 2 or 3 parts paint to 1 part hardener and 10 to 15% reducer. The HS and VHS are usually 4 parts paint to 1 part hardener and 0% to 10% reducer. These are only wild figures as every paint system is different and you need to follow the Technical data sheets to get this correct (TDS). There is no room for error and the thinning side of it depends on the temperatures, what speed hardeners and reducers you are using plus the size of the paint job at hand and the gun set ups your using.
6. This is answered above.
7. As mentioned above. MS is 1 medium coat and one wet coat. HS and VHS is one tack coat and one wet coat. Anymore then this can result in Solvent boil, runs, delamination etc. I wont go into details why as it will only confuse you more then I probably already have.
I can go into more detail if you like but that's putting it as simple as possible without trying to confuse you to much.lol
Cheers Mick.
There ya go Scotty, and thats without you stuffing up all the prep work (LMFAO)
Scotty , you should ask Mick about "Ceramic Clears" also :gossip:
I resprayed my Patrol in Sikkins Ceramic clear early this year. It's great stuff which I used to use on Lexus when I worked for a Lexus repairer. We used to paint the car as usual and clear it with normal clear. Then once dry we would rub the car back with 1000 wet and flow coat it in Ceramic clear. That's the reason you see cars such as Lexus, Merc, BMW, Bentley always look like they have fresh paint because once ceramic clear is dry it doesn't scratch from being washed, polished etc.
The down side is you need to spray in a very clean environment (spray booth) and know how to apply paint to get it on nice or it runs easily and it needs denibing within 24 hours of being painted or it's to hard to denib so any bits of crap or runs stay there for good.lol
Ceramic clear isn't something you would use in the backyard and it's quite expensive too.
Cheers Mick.
sand any chips cracks and around any bog work with 240 grit, primer over parts you want primed then rub back with 400 grit, 400 any panels your going to repaint that do not have repairs on them (pretty much just want to get away the clear coat or "shiny-ness") the ratios should be printed on the back of the paint car. Use a mixing cup or you can purchase a mixing ruler that has ratios on them. Make sure your over spray is 50-50 so your first line you over lap the next line half way but be careful because runs are easily made especially with clear coat.
Did you get it painted and if so how did you go,I havent been on the forum for a bit or I would have tried to help you out.
Hope it came out good if you did it and I also hope you didnt use air dry enamel prick of a paint to rework or do anything with really
Went ok mate - for an amateur ...Quote:
Originally Posted by daves
Paint is a 221 2Pac that we were advised to use, and once I got a grip on flow rate, gun pressure and hand movement, it didn't end up too bad (not a showroom job, but not bad for a first ever lash).
way to go bigrig yeh its all about the prep and as you said the setup of the spraygun and thinning of the paint plays a part to,i give you points for having a go,i just did a swival hub kit on my gu which was a new experience to me being a spraypainter,glad its done,lucky for me i had a mechanic mate help out.
The swivel hub bearing kit is something I'd rather do boss!! Done plenty now and like spray painting, you get somewhat better at it the more you do it apparently!! lmaoQuote:
Originally Posted by daves