G'day folks,
Finally put my GU TD 42 Diesel Patrol's suspension back to stock and removed my winch. Almost ready for sale.
Regards,
PMC
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G'day folks,
Finally put my GU TD 42 Diesel Patrol's suspension back to stock and removed my winch. Almost ready for sale.
Regards,
PMC
What are you going to buy when the 'Trol is gone Paul?
Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
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Dodge RAM 3500 Dually with a 6.7 Cummins, Allison 6sp ATQuote:
Originally Posted by Drewboyaus
lol
G'day mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by Drewboyaus
I am currently looking for a TI auto 4.8 duel fuel Patrol. Due to my wife is only confident in driving a auto Patrol.
I got a quote a couple of months ago from wholesale automotive in Victoria, to convert my GU 4.2 turbo diesel from a manual to a auto and it was going to cost me between $5,000 and $6,000 dollars.
I can buy a 2006 TI duel fuel for between $20,000 and $24,000 dollars. It is not worth over capitalising on a 2001 GU 4.2 turbo diesel wagon by the cost quoted.
I have driven two 4.8 auto petrol GU wagons over the last 4 weeks and I cannot get over the power these things produce.
Some folks are currently spending between $10,000 and $20,000 to increase there power out-put to try and gain 200kw in a 4.2 turbo diesel configaration. When the 4.8 petrol has already close to those figures.
Over the last 20 years, I have owned two GU 4.2 turbo diesel wagons, two GQ 4.2 turbo diesel wagons and two GQ 4.2 fuel injected petrol GQ wagons. I had more fun with my petrol Patrols than I have with my diesel Patrols.
My servicing costs over the years with the petrol engines were 3/4rds the cost of the diesel engines. After balancing servicing and fuel costs both engines come out equal, however, the power out-put of the petrol motors are far more superior than the diesels.
The 4.8 petrol engine is a very powerful motor, you do not need to modify it has it has more power than a highly modified 4.2 turbo diesel.
Lets remember that there is a lot of 4.2 diesel folks out there spending a small fortune just to get the same power out-put figures of the 4.8 petrol engine. I know has I was one of those folks.
As previously stated above, some folks are spending between, $10,000 and $20,000 thousand dollars just to modify their 4.2 diesel engines, just to get the same power out-put figures of the 4.8. To me this is not good economics in my book.
Especially when you can buy a 2006 to 2009 model 4.8 auto TI or STL wagon with the average of between 125,000 to 190,000ks on the clock for the same price as a 2000 or 2002 4.2 turbo diesel DX or ST model wagon with the average of between 275,000 to 450,000ks on the clock.
PS, looking forward to my next GU 4.8 auto wagon rebuild project. Please remember this is only my opinion!
Kind regards,
PMC
I have to agree with PMC logically with a little OS insight or opinion. Doing a cost benefit analysis on diesel versus petrol (gasoline) in the USA for a number of years most of the big three charge a hefty premium for the addition of the diesel option, in the range of $7-8K more than a petrol model. When petrol (gas) was cheaper than it is now it and I was looking at trucks (UTE's) it took a heck of a lot of miles to compensate for the uplift when gas was $2.89 and diesel was $2.25 a US (standard) gallon .. tens if not a hundred of thousand of miles before you broke even with the same towing/loading capacity.
My first Patrol was a dual fuel 4.8, I sold it but there was nothing wrong with it other than where I live, there is no gas (LPG) within 20k's and it's in the opposite direction of where I would ever go. It was an ST-L, Navy Blue and Black leather == HOT !! just about anytime of the year.
Basically I like the 'sound' of a diesel and took loads of crap when we bought our first new car a '79 VW Diesel Rabbit (Golf) GL ... darn thing got 45-50 mpg and that's when fuel was $0.48 a gallon and petrol was $0.89 ...
Fiscally doing all the upgrades to the 4.2 would buy many liters of petrol (gasoline).. but I like owning a 'D'. ..
lol
Any of the td42 bits for sale Paul? :)
Attached the side and rear rails for roof rack (pile more crap on)
Attachment 47375Attachment 47376
Then mounted side awing 2.5 length, 2.0 width
Attachment 47377
Actually, moving to 'Storage' and 'Great Outdoors' to post a number of project updates ..
Just pulled all my barwork off and bloody hell it is heavy crap... all ARB bar and side steps with scrub bars I wonder what it all weighs ?
The bullbar is all undone but too heavy for me to move by myself with my back... need to cut a section out and weld another in and also thinking should I cut that piece off for the old roller fair lead?
Keeping busy while waiting....
I thought the rails were front and sides :) That's how Rhino always show them, and I figured its more for stopping your load sliding forward under heavy braking. I see you have the almighty 4.2 so that could be why you went the rail at the rear for all the hard accelerations ;) In all seriousness though how do you find the pioneer tray gear? I've got the heavy duty roof bars and am contemplating getting a pioneer rack. Also is your awning mounted to the heavy duty bars or the actual pioneer tray?Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskyInAuz
Today for me I finally re-installed my aux battery in it's proper spot, and made a heat shield out of that supercheap stuff.