Ok, so I flooded my Patrol "competition" ZD30DDti and had the car sitting for a while. Due to that my EGR unit internals rusted up. So instead of spending $700 or something stupid for another unit, I was looking to remove the entire EGR assembly completely.
The answer is "you can't". This is due to math done in the ECU whereby it compares MAP (found on the intercooler) and the MAF (air box). Unfortunately, these 2 sensors is the pulse for the engine so we cannot manipulate them without upsetting the engine. This is exasperated by the fly-by-wire throttle body whereby it would close under de-acceleration to suck in the exhaust gases (suspicion at this moment but most likely what I would do as engineer).
Luckily I managed to clean up my valve unit but I took out the the rest of it cause I aren't going back.
So what I am going to look into doing is see if the car will play ball by making a plate with a tube before the valve unit going to some clean air. Introducing a 3rd element is the only way to trick the CPU. Clean air > Exhaust gases. If clean air goes into the cylinder when its expecting dirty air... I think it should be alright.
I don't see an issue at this moment. I might have to experiment with how much pressure to apply to the intake. I do have a scan gauge 2 on hand. Just need to make plates for the exhaust manifold and EGR valve.
Also, for those that added a EGR block, leave the battery off overnight. Then in the morning start the car. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE OR MOVE THE CAR till the temperature gauge is where it should be when warmed up. This is to allow the ECU to learn about your engine. It should be fine after that.