Mudski GU Build Thread

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Originally Posted by tryan277

My 2 cents worth
Separate the location of the winch isolator switch and the operational switch (in/out)
Isolator on dash somewhere where it cannot be easily knocked (and winch powered up without realizing) and in/out switch on console. If things are hairy don't want the switches next to each other, and in haste press the wrong one!
Consider a wireless remote. If caught out on your own can spool out while dragging winch line to point of attachment and winch back in to take up slack ensuring straps, protectors etc position themselves as intended, before doing the actual recovery.

Cheers Trevor

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Thanks, yep the switches will be positioned properly. Do you know of any remote switches that work with the GP solenoids? I haven't really looked at these to be honest but a remote would be a great handy thing to have.

A quick Ebay search and looks like most kits have a reciever which you could easily wire up to trigger the solenoid. .

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Attachment 81165
As roscoe said they all work the same so brand of solenoid does not matter. I have a GP as well but mounted under the bonnet next to the battery. The receiver is mounted at the front right just under the front lip of the bonnet.
My controller and receiver is the same as the picture.
Another advantage is that if you need to check/test/respool under load before the next adventure you can easily do this on you own.

Cheers Trevor

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Originally Posted by mudski

Should be right now?
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I have suspicion that terminals 1,2 & 3 are another set of contacts. Do you have a meter you can check that? As per your drawing terminal 2 doesnt need to be there

Pretty sure 1,2 & 3 justt control the LEDs, not sure about number 2 tho not sure why you would need that? Mine is wired up so when you push up on switch upper light comes on and down on switch lower light comes on and isn't illuminated when dash lights turned on. Thiknig about having a fiddle and putting 1 to power with dash lights then it should be illuminated when dash lights on, then bridging 4 & 6 to 3 then should illuminate upper light when winching out or in . . . In theory lol but think upper light does come on within switch with the normal on off ones anyway. Anyway need to see if it all works in practice lol, will start playing with mine, have a winch freespool switch coming in the mail so will have a play soon. .

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So my bits finally arrived from ARB. New bumpers, two extra aerial tabs and a noo sticker.
Just a tad nervous on welding the tabs on. I’m an ok welder but if I feck it up it would have been a waste waiting for them. Hmm. Do I go for it or ring my mate who is a professional welder? And wait for him to do it, which may be over the weekend.
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If in doubt, wait for the pro- its only 2 days away and doubt you could get anything done to the bar until monday? Or forge ahead, and take a leap of faith - they are not structural and I am guessing all you want is a nice looking bead?

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

If in doubt, wait for the pro- its only 2 days away and doubt you could get anything done to the bar until monday? Or forge ahead, and take a leap of faith - they are not structural and I am guessing all you want is a nice looking bead?

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Well the impatient prick I am. Welded them. Gotta say. I’m actually happy with my welds. A little bit of spatter to clean up but the runs across the top I’m happy with.
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Looks fine, good job - I would not have been able to wait either!

Thanks. It was killing having to wait for ARB to fire up the old machine to make the bumpers.


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