Engine location 2.0:
Attachment 79215
Printable View
Engine location 2.0:
Attachment 79215
Update time.
Engine location 2.0 is now final.
Oilpan to axle housing clearance is good, engine to dash panel is good, and engine fan to radiator is good.
Supercharcharger to hood panel is tight, touches on insulator, however, the insulator in that region is quite thick, so trimming is an option.
Attachment 79222
Next on the list is to get the exhaust headers sorted.
This may well be the biggest challenge, as on the drivers side is bugger all room, need to get creative for this.
that is all.
Update,
Pic to show the oilpan clearance. I'm happy with the way the oilpan clears, no issues when the springs are taken out and the chassis is on the bump stops.
Pic to show the exhaust, will be running the supplied manifolds until its on the road, will assess and see if custom one are needed.
The clearance is tight, and the supplied manifolds not too "sporty", however I'll see how the P400 performs.
Attachment 79281
Attachment 79282
Attachment 79283
Good to see the progress. What clearance do you have sitting on the bumpstops for the sump? Did you nick a corner out of the sump to get the clearance? If its close I would consider solid blocks to be honest as its better to hit these than put a dent in the sump I would think. You certainly have more clearance around your motor than I do. I am not sure hydraulic units would help unless they are set up to bottom out - I still have these for consideration on mine, however my coils are just about right I reckon - Dobinson 110kg constant rate units from memory on the front - guys in the dandenong shop set them up for me - very helpful.
Coming along fast now Ralph mate, exciting stuff[emoji106]
Does look very sump close to the axle customised, hopefully articulations don’t clip left or right too, could well be camera angle and my icrapple tiny screen!
Any calculations yet mate on sump capacity now and auxiliary reservoir ideas you may have?
Keen to add a few extra litres to my old NA twactor shed queen one day sooner than later hopefully [emoji106][emoji106]
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Hi PB, the bumpstop clearance is 25mm, the oilpan was modified by BD and it seems to fit, which is a miracle considering what Greg has supplied.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
The hydo's would be an option as you can control the "hit rate", but I'll see how it handles the bumps when the truck gets mobile.
Hi MB,Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Have not looked into the oil capacity side of things just yet, the pic does make it look close tho.
I'm thinking that being flat on both bump stops might be enough, but will see when mobile.
Cheers mate, keep us posted [emoji106][emoji106]
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Thinking about the rocker cover vent, which is only on the drivers side bank of the engine. Why isn't there a similar vent on the passenger side? Is there any advantage of venting this rocker cover? I read an article last night where there was a noticeable build up of gunk in the non vented side cover. If I went ahead and vented the passenger side as well, would it create any problems? I have a catch can for the drivers side. Also, wonder if I could simply buy a drivers side rocker cover and install it on the passenger side?
My understanding is that it's technically a "PCV" valve or vent. That being positive crankcase ventilation or something similar to that. It's purpose is to vent the blowby and other gases generated from the crankcase, not specifically the rocker cover.. so I couldn't see any real benifits to fitting another vent on the other side. I also don't see any detriment if you really wanted to.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
So what happens on the non vented side?Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-TJ-0
Well it's all interconnected. The oil is pumped up to the rockers and gravity feeds it's way back down to the crank case. If one rocker cover is vented the whole system is. The "non-vented" side just wouldn't see flow so to speak. As long as you're keeping good oil up to it there's no reason either side should gunk up.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Just purely speculating now but out of the 2 I would have expected the vented side to accumulate more gunk as it sees a constant flow of fumes and blow-by.
Perhaps the fumes act as a bit of a scrubbing/cleaning agent as they're probably fuel rich
Trying to remember my old FJ modded 350 V8 petrol days, think one side had the oil filler vented cap and other had the vacuum back to Quadrajet carburettors?
Our 6.5 diesels as you know Phil mate have the oil filler smack in the front middle so couldn’t also like O-TJ-O mate kindly mentions foresee a problem either with venting both sides?
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OK, thanks. I don't think I will do anything right now it it involves removing the supercharger, and injector lines to get the rocker cover off. I spoke with the diesel mechanic in the workshop at the mine and he said its a 'nice to have' but not entirely necessry as there are vent passages around the pushrods for one that would allow pressure ventingQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
OK guys,
I would like to see some pictures of your accelerator cable setups, at the IP end.
I'm at the stage of running the cable and would like to see some solutions, or is there only the one obvious design.
Bullet wanted some stupid money for a "bracket", how hard can it be?
Thinking that the cable run will come from the front, connect to a lever on the IP? and that should be that, or am I wrong?
Also, for you P400 guys, what water temps are you running, and is keeping the airflow to the radiator as critical as the regular 6.5 motors do?
I have in addition to the AC condenser, power steering and radiator, the engine oil cooler, trans oil cooler and intercooler heat exchanger to mount.
Mounting all this in font of the would be a challenge at the best of times, without the cooling issues of the 6.5 in general.
Looking at putting the "extra stuff" under the tray.
What do you guys think?
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ser-6500/page6
Attachment 80095
I bought the stupid bracket and linkage and binned it. You needed to be a 1cm tall 8 jointed insect to install and adjust it, totally impractical, and yes, expensive. I went with the BD accelerator cable from the n/a installation. BD claimed I needed to change this to a GQ TD42 throttle cable assy, which I did, then found it would not fit, so changed it all back again. The BD cable can bee seen in the shot going over the s/c snout. The other cable is the cruise control, which has not worked since I mangled it in the fan blades. The BD cable cost be around $150 as I wanted a spare. Its a fair piece of gear.
You are welcome, glad the install is going well.
Update time.
Small hiccup with the torque converter, the nose locator was too long to fit into the crank.
The guys who made up the converter popped out, picked it up and and altered and returned for a perfect fit.
Part and parcel of pioneering a combination that was never offered by the factory.
The engine location was changed, as I didn't like the offset, now all central, millimetre perfect.
Radiator fan shroud fits as intended, exhaust done to the rear axle, hydro-boost going in next.
I'm looking at putting both batteries under the tray to remove weight from the front of vehicle.
Now onto the integration of the sub systems.....
Hi, first post.
I have disconnected my throttle linkage after a few beers, to reposition the way it ran from under the intercooler bracket to over and am having trouble reconnecting it properly. Any chance of pictures to help what it looks like. Thanks in advance for helping rectify my mistake...
Have a look here,
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ser-6500/page7
Thanks very much.... exactly where I want to look, but I am not sure what I have done with mine.. I am pretty sure a 2nd spring popped off, and positioned like in the pictures you referenced, there is way to much play in my throttle cable..Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
I think I might end up goin to one of the local mechanics here Tuesday as he has one to have a look at, to see if there is something I am missing.
There is only 1 spring. Have you adjusted the threaded sleeve with the lock nuts - 1 either side of the anchor bracket for the throttle cable? Where are you located?
The cable isn't broken inside the sleeve by any chance?
Turns out the cable had come out at the throttle pedal.. had a chat to the mechanic yesterday and he suggested it..Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Note to self, don't do work on the 4WD when its getting dark, and after some beers...
OK time to post.
finally got the truck home after 36 months.
I'm happy with the truck, but not the time frame, although it doesn't drive well due to the 6L90 being in limp mode, and the accelerator pedal needing too much pressure to use.
The truck is going to have the air bag replaced thanks to TAKATA, and then it's time to get a cal into the trans.
Wiring is not to my liking, however it starts and runs, I'll have something to do over the next few weeks.
I'm also going to do the center console for the new shifter, and looking at what needs to be monitored gaugewise.
Attachment 82416
It’s ALIVE Ralph Mate, Congratulations [emoji106][emoji106]
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Thanks MB, has been quite a journey, but finally home. the enjoyment starts now.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
I'm also pleased that the hood shuts, and it no longer has a scoop....
Sort of looks cool in my eyes.
Attachment 82419
She’s a Sleeper Mate, best to keep off Mr Plods Radar for sure [emoji106][emoji106]
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Well, got the airbag replaced, so the rego doesn't get cancelled.:animierte-smilies-t
The trans is in limp mode, due to the engine rpm and the throttle position sensors not being connected, so its reverse or third gear.....
But it does sound good,
I did notice the the p/s pump whines a bit, but I guess that's probably normal, might have a look at the hydroboost push rod adjustment as I think the rears are dragging a bit.
Need to sus out an auto elec locally, so if anybody knows someone who's switched on, let me know.
Then it's on to the center console!
more to follow..
I have a 'ticking ' sound at idle when cold, decreases when it warms up, thinking it might be a bearing with a dicky roller or ball race on one of the front of engine accessories- hope its not the PS pump!
anybody with a 6.5 running endless air compressor? if so, what size receiver do you have.
looking at replacing the a/c on my 6.5 serpentine for a EA90, as the electric compressors are not cost effective for what they do.
Funny enough I have an endless air compressor for sale and a converted sanden compressor for sale - PM for details. Both running vee belts, neither even done an rpm. The genuine is missing one mount ear though. I could not get mine to fit when running the vee belt but then I was running the a/c as wellQuote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Time for a little write up on putting the 6L90 trans behind the 6.5.
The 6L80 & 6L90 are almost identical in physical shape and size, the 6L90 is about 17mm ish longer,
Both will bolt right up to the 6.5.
On the 6L90 and some 6L80 trans, you will only pick up 5 of the 6 mounting bolts, the "2 o'clock" bolt on the drivers side is missing on the trans.
The early 6L80 will have that missing bolt hole available, and that convertor housing, which is integral with the oil pump housing will interchange with the 6L90.
There is no provision on the 6.5 to pick up the "12 o'clock" bolt holes, and there are 2 bolt holes available on the bottom of the trans convertor housing, but no provision on the 6.5 to pick these up.
I have had bosses welded to the aluminium oil pan, with brackets to pick these up, to aide "beaming strength".
The convertor is where it starts to get interesting.
In the US, there is a version of the 6L90 that is used behind the 6.6 duramax diesel. that convertor is what makes this trans doable behind the 6.5.
I got a trans specialist to modify my convertor to match the 6.5 flex plate, and the 6.6 internals to make this viable, as the 6.6 max rpm is 3400, not the 6600 of the donor vehicle trans (HSV GTS)
An 3400 rpm will suit the 6.5.
Marks 4WD makes the adaptor to the Nissan transfer case, just don't use a 4x4 trans as the splines won't match.
Now, it's HSV GTS shifter on the trans tunnel with either a cable or rod connection, and you're all done....
One small problem, trans control, most will say a stand alone controller is not available, but there is.
Zero Gravity sell one and it comes with a harness, requires just a TPS and engine rpm to make the trans work.
Also, that US vehicle that has the 6.6 and 6L90 combo, will also supply the initial calibration that gets loaded into the trans.
My trans is at the moment in "limp mode" as I haven't got those 2 sensors connected. It still drives, but only in 4th, no TC lockup and I get reverse.
I chose to drive in "limp mode" in order to get the airbag replaced before the end of the year and avoid the rego getting cancelled.
So I'm getting close, keen to see how the trans handles the 6.5, as the is no provision for a torque cut on upshift.....
I may have found the 'ticking ' noise I mentioned. On start up this annoying ticking sounds is quite noticeable. i thought it was the same noise some have reported with the fluid damper installation, however that didn't sound at all right as the damper can't move. Anyway, dropped the belt off and checked each pully and found the auto tensioner wobbling a bit and the clamping bolt finger tight - odd because this was loctite'd when I did the swap over. Anyway, the issue is the clearance between the brg bore and the mount peg on the adjuster - there would be a good 0.5 mm gap, its as sloppy as, so relies only on the clamp bolt to hold it and i am sure the tension of the bolt pushed it to one side. Anyway, i have bogged up the clearance with a liquid metal product and once its set will reinstate it. I have spoken to BD, 'never heard of this before ......., anyway, waiting for their solution ie a correctly fitting brg to stub and that should fix things. i drove the vehicle back into the garage and no noise, so hope this is the culprit. There was a slight amount of axial movement on the PS pump so this would be the next focus if the tensioner hypothesis is incorrect.
Update - BD checked all their stock and they are the same, sloppy joe fit, thousands of them out there so I have asked for a precision one to eliminate this, and the PS pump axial movement is normal, and the same happens on the vac pump, so maybe I have not found the noise source?
Wacky old school idea was taught once upon a time and can hopefully work for you too Phil Mate!Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
A safe shortest length of garden or siphon hose held against ones ear intake noise hole whilst searching the troublesome tone area throughout your engine bay should pinpoint peak decibels at the open end [emoji106][emoji106]
Patent Pending: “M.iraculous B.enderphone”
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Well, the noise is a lot less pronounced and does not last for anywhere near as long now that the bearing to shaft void has been taken up with liquid metal. Certainly nothing like it was, so think I am on the right track, or its now just a sticky stiff 8 track belt - trying not to get over anxious about this right now.
Took it out for a burl, new tyres, wants to float around a bit, so looking at pressures, but they dont look visually out of sorts - might just be a different pattern thing. Speedo is out by 10klm/hr, so probably should change the gearbox speedo gear - there was a chart I saw 'somewhere', can anyone post it up, shows the gear tooth number. I am going from original 32" to 33".
Tried out the water spray system today - total dud. not enough water/mist too fine, so back to looking at nozzle and spray combo's when I get a chance.
Had to modify the belly tank fill pipe as the offset on the rims leave a lot less clearance inside the guards - wasn't that difficult, just squashed the tube to generate some additional room and put it back together.
Need to get the a/c system pressure re-checked as the Interchiller is not as effective now it seems, but then again, it could be my jinking around with the external heat exchanger add on that's nobbling it - will get to the bottom of it soon enough - the heat exchanger is the only thing that has changed and the performance has gone to OK to not quite OK.
OK, ticking noise resolved. The Gates greenline or fleetline belts have a tacky back surface. This tackiness is releasing on the back side running pulleys it seems with a 'pop'. I took the vehicle down to the mechanic I use and he listened then went into the workshop to return with a graphite puffer. He applied the graphite to the back side of the belt and at the idler pulleys and the noise stopped instantly. Happy happy days. Still waiting for advice on the precision pulley from Brunswick - might have to say i will buy another motor to get them interested in responding i think.
Update - BD came back with a cost of $150 for the revised pulley which involves machining and putting a sleeve on the existing tensioner arm, then fitting a different ball bearing unit to the pulley with an increase bore size, so ordered that. Just kicked the truck up again now that everything has cooled down and the clicking is definitely gone. One thing to note is that the various belt noise sprays on the market don't work well with multi vee configured belts, more round and Vee belts.
Well guys, good news, most unexpected, but Brunswick have decided to supply and send the new pulley assy for free - yep, no charge on the basis I guess that this configuration should never have been adopted to begin with. Absolutely floored me.
Attachment 82697
ripped the interior out chasing that knocking noise since I put the 6.5 in......
sort of sounds like rolling thunder, oh well, might as well put some sound deadener in then I suppose, will keep me busy for a while me thinks....