Blocking the EGR Valve

Hey Bindi. the Scangauge wont show EGT's because there is no factory fitted pyrometer on the Patrols, same as for the oil temp gauge. Technically your EGT's should be lower when blocking the EGR as your now not getting hot exhaust gas pumped into the cylinders, which would prior to the EGR block create slightly hotter exhaust gases.
Adding a Dawes and needle valve to the CRD's is not as important as it is with the Di's as the Di's ECU had a real hard hard time trying to properly control boost levels and spool up rate. But using these two valves in a CRD many have found they are able to control the max boost and spool up rate much better than what the factory ECU can. Therefor making the car run even better that stock. Just because the car is new'ish doesn't mean its right. Just to what is right from factory and to Australian design. Same applies with any car, petrol or diesel. Hence why there is so many aftermarket add on's for any new car you see on the market. Simply to make them better from what you get out of the crate.

thanks, I have my scan gauge fitted now and without EGR or other mods I have been monitoring my boost levels over the last week or so. Most of the time it ranges between 4 and 15psi with the highest being 17.5psi. My next step will be to install the full (no hole) EGR blanking plate and see how this affects the boost pressures. Given that even slightly higher (say upto 20psi) will only be for very short times I struggle to see how this can be too bad for the engine??

Anyway I'll see how it goes, and if the boost pressures do get too high I can either install a dawes valve or just remove the EGR plate. My biggest dilemma is that I still have 18 months of factory warranty left.

Mark

hi
i am from switzerland and i want to ask if the EGR-modification afects the emissions dramaticly and if there will be some smoke or anithing else because the police here is not happy with smoking cars
thanks for your replys

GRY60, smoke should be reduced very significantly, NOX may increase. Only noticeable if it's tested.

Thanks TIMBO sounds a great mod to start with , my zd30 drinks fuel and I have had it checked and no results yet , I now have a project to do myself thanks a lot .

TIMOO just be fore I put this plate in (egr block) do I have to do any other mods ?? The motor is a 2010 mod zd30 crd I don't know what else has been done except a after market welded inter cooler , extra fuel filter , and a new air flow senser , thanks .

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Originally Posted by DOG

TIMOO just be fore I put this plate in (egr block) do I have to do any other mods ?? The motor is a 2010 mod zd30 crd I don't know what else has been done except a after market welded inter cooler , extra fuel filter , and a new air flow senser , thanks .

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If you have a boost gauge I wouldn't block the egr as your boost will be all over the shop and you be constantly looking at your gauge. Worse than pre egr. If you don't have a gauge then you won't see the gauge bouncing up and down and you won't need to worry. Lol.
If you want to give your turbo a smooth linear boost curve, you need to install a Dawes and needle valve. Not a must mod but definitely well worth it.

So been doing a few mods today, put a welded intercooler on as original was oily and stained and while I was at it fitted a Provent 200, also mounted a pillar pod but have not put gauges in yet which brings me to my questions..

Where to start next as I'm still waiting for the quick fit boost adapter to turn up in the mail which should of been here last week, so have boost gauge and egt gauge ready, have blanking plate, have a 3' redback exhaust which turned up today have dawes valve and needle valve, all these are ready to install But in what order should I tackle this?

I was thinking of winging it and doing the blanking plate and exhaust?

Has your pipe got the bung in it for the egt gauge? I'd be doing the pipe first. Then gauges, then the dawes, needle and egr.

The original factory Nissan exhaust is on it atm, noticed some cracking on it just below the dump pipe so was wanting a new exhaust and that pushed the finance minister into letting me, the redback system has the egt and O2 bungs, so was thinking while at it I would hook up the egt gauge, will have a search on which wire to tap into for dash lights for the gauges ect.

But back to egr backing plate, should I be looking at cleaning the manifold ect before putting the egr plate in? And how much of a job is it to remove manifold ect? Will have a search for that as well tho have already but didn find a step by step on it for the GU 02 ZD30 Di. Engine was a new nissan crate engine and currently has 68 tho on it since being replaced, so wondering if there is any need to clean manifold, tho noticed a fair bit of oil on old intercooler and around turbo from the piping hence the provent to hopefully stop that.