Checking and cleaning MAF sensors

Yeah well I'd be getting it from Perth...Your sensor should have the Part number on it. Check it against the $210 part.

Thanks Mudski for the advice. Have just had it serviced and the mechanic cleaned it for me this time.... said it was filthy.... The difference is just incredible...30% power increase I would say... will certainly clean it more often now......

well I put the new one in has worked a charm.. but still has a lag before boost i dont know if this could have anything to do with the turbo actuator? not set? any more advice please

has anybody used an after market maf and if so are they ok to use or am l best to stick to nissan

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Originally Posted by Stokezi

has anybody used an after market maf and if so are they ok to use or am l best to stick to nissan

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Would also be interested in this. Trying to do a custom air box and would rather MAF that doesn't bolt straight to air box of my 4.5 but rather connect via pipe or something

Sorry if this has been asked already, I may have missed it somewhere, but, What are the tell tale signs, that the MAF may need cleaning or replacing.??

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Originally Posted by Stokezi

has anybody used an after market maf and if so are they ok to use or am l best to stick to nissan

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Nothing wrong with aftermarket anything, its just that you know what you get when you buy OEM. Well you are supposed to know.

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Originally Posted by lufkin

Would also be interested in this. Trying to do a custom air box and would rather MAF that doesn't bolt straight to air box of my 4.5 but rather connect via pipe or something

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Like this?

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Originally Posted by Cowboy

Sorry if this has been asked already, I may have missed it somewhere, but, What are the tell tale signs, that the MAF may need cleaning or replacing.??

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Car runs like a bag of poo basically. You should clean the MAF at every service anyhow....

OMG. tripllle dupe post. I need to go to bed..

Hi all just letting people know I just purchased a gu 3 zd30 maf sensor from repco for $94.00 could not believe that price

Thanks YNOT. Another job for me this weekend.
Is it correct that a catch can will stop this getting dirty again.

So I think I need to replace the air flow sensor when a finish rebuilding this engine

You can just clean with MAF cleaner from SCA, just make sure its dry when you replace it. If
you decide to buy another keep this for a spare. and yes a catch can will prevent fumes fouling the sensor

can anyone tell me does the car need to be warm when you clean the sensor or is it ok when cold .
cheers neil

You can clean it any time, spray heaps at the wire, DO NOT TOUCH wire with fingers or anything else.
Just make sure its dry before you re install it, While you're cleaning it some ppl dis connect battery at the same time.

thanks TD
neil

Has anyone done this on the CRD? Going to have my head stuck under the bonnet this weekend and I have a can of MAF cleaner so I want to give it a bash.

I pulled out what I thought was the MAF a couple of weeks ago but it was flat and shiny, if that makes sense, nothing link the photo at the start of this thread.

Cheers for the top info Tony!

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Originally Posted by Beni C

Has anyone done this on the CRD? Going to have my head stuck under the bonnet this weekend and I have a can of MAF cleaner so I want to give it a bash.

I pulled out what I thought was the MAF a couple of weeks ago but it was flat and shiny, if that makes sense, nothing link the photo at the start of this thread.

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yes done mine and it is different to the earlier models fairly flat and shiny dont touch the surface

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Originally Posted by my third 256

yes done mine and it is different to the earlier models fairly flat and shiny dont touch the surface

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first time I pulled mine out for a clean it had a big thumb print on it

Hi,
I wander if you can help me. I have a dilemma with AFM meter in my Patrol.
What could be reason for repetitive AFM meter failure?

Facts:
Patrol 3l diesel 2004 model GU (not a newer mk2) 3.0-litre ZD30TD
everything under bonnet factory, no modifications, std air filter
since 2009 four AFM meteres failed, always buy genuine Nissan
no off road driving, clean city use
dirty AFM meter reason eliminated, it fails electronically, suddenly AFM just stops working not gradually (dramatic loss of acceleration or power on up hill).
Last AFM fitted week ago failed after six days (previous lasted up to two years)

I have done plenty of speculations but has any one had the same repetitive failure problem?
Importantly has any one find out what was the underlying problem?
Victor

Hi what about the TB42E ???????????

Hi what about TB42E ?

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Originally Posted by YNOT

ZD30 Prior series 4
there should be 4 wires at your MAF they'll be Red, White, Black and White terminal 1,2,3 and 4 respectively,
With the car idling, warmed up to normal operating temp, vehicle in nuetral and the AC off test the following;
The 1 (R) should be reading between 1.6 and 2 volts
The 3 (B) should be reading 0v
With the car stopped but the ignition 'on' disconnect the MAF plug and test
The 2 (w) should be reading approx 5v
The 4 (W) should be reading the battery voltage.
If they read these voltages your MAF is fuctioning correctly.

ZD30 Series 4
there should be a 6 pin connector Nothing, White, Black, Red, White and Black, terminal 1,2,3,4,5,&6
With the car idling, warmed up to normal operating temp AC off, in neutral no load test the following
The 3 (B) should be reading 0v
The 4 (R) should be reading between 1.5 to 1.9v at idle increasing to 4.0v when revving through to 4000rpm
With the car stopped but the ignition 'on' disconnect the MAF plug and test
The 2 (W) should be reading the battery voltage
If they read these you MAF is fuctioning

TB45
There should be a Black/Red wire, Black and White wire Term 2,3 &4
With the car idling, warmed up in nuetral and ac off there should be the following
The 3 (B) should be reading 0v
The 4 (W) should be reading 1.3 to 1.8v, and with the engine at 2500rpm should be 2.1 to 2.5v
With the car of disconnect the MAF plug turn the ignition on and test
The 2 (B/R) should be reading the battery voltage

TB48
There should be a White/Green, Yellow, Black/White and Black/Red Term 1,2,3 & 4
With the car idling, warmed up, in nuetral and the AC off there should be the following
The 1 (W/G) should be reading 1.1 to 1.5v, and at 2500rpm 1.7 to 2.4v
The 3 (B/W) should be reading 0v

Turn the car off and disconnect the MAF plug and turn the ignition on
The 2 (Y) should be reading approx 5v
The 4 (B/R) should be reading the battery voltage

RD28
There should be White, Black and Red Term 1,2 &3
With the car idling warmed up in nuetral with the AC off there should be the following
The 2 (B) Should be reading 0v
The 3 (R) should be reading 1.6 to 2.0v

Withe the car off disconnect the MAF plug and turn the ignition on
The 1 (W) should be the battery voltage

If they dont read the battery voltage of the approx 5v at those respective termianls there is most likely a short in the system so check the connectors harnesses and plugs if they don't read the voltages at idle then there is most likely a fault with the MAF.

Tony

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I was just looking for that my self pezzer

Thanks Tony. Have been looking for the Part No. for just the sensor, but could only find the whole shebang..
A&J.

Did the adjustments to the DAwes valve fix it Tony? Mine is doing a similar thing. Clyde

You're on an old thread here don't think some of these guys are still around.
You may find you need to open up Dawes so there is less PSI for the time being
Use your thread for Dawes Questions, I only looked here as I saw your name

I'm just wondering what kind of voltages indicate a bad MAF sensor?
Mine is a 2000 ZD30 showing 2.4v on the red and 0.3v on the black.
Also if it is bad, would it contribute to the motor getting warm? I can drive all day on flat no probs, but hit an incline and it'll start rising. I've got all NADS setup except a new exhaust to put on one day.

@ Boosh I'd be looking at radiator related problems. hose the bottom
of your radiator, as mud dust etc tend to block the lower half, go gently
as carwash doovas can be a bit high pressure for my likings, don't pull trigger

Yeh the system was flushed not long ago, radiator was all good. I've got a new thermostat on the way now. It's an easy $30 to see if that helps.

thanks for the info will be trying it on my tb48 soon, see how it goes will let you know

I would advise on any car that has a MAF to get some MAF cleaner and clean it every service. Probably not necessary for road cars but it doesn't hurt to do it.

Cheers mate, good info.

Is this what the ZD30 Maf sensor looks like or am I ment to pull it apart some more so it looks like the rest?
Attachment 40870Attachment 40869Attachment 40868Attachment 40867

No such thing as a dumb question only dumb individual's hahahaaha

Warwick. That is exactly what they look like. That is the complete unit. Nothing more to pull apart. If you look inside the small metal plates are the actual "sensor" bit, and they're the ones that need cleaning.

Funny last night while George was here trouble shooting we went through my collection of AFM's and all but one were working and that one belongs to Irish which he lent me????

Bloody temperamental things and pricey!!!

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Originally Posted by Hodge

Warwick. That is exactly what they look like. That is the complete unit. Nothing more to pull apart. If you look inside the small metal plates are the actual "sensor" bit, and they're the ones that need cleaning.

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Thanks mate just got a little worried because it doesn't look like the rest lol

Has anyone tried those billet maf sensor holders/housings. If so whats the benift??

ive tried cleaning it once..and i was dumb enough not to read instruction for cleaning it..after cleaning it..i waited for 20min(i didnt know i was supposed to waited until it was completely dry inside out..) and install it..and there it goes..maf sensor gone faulty..new maf sensor installed..,cost me hundred bucks..and its was like a virus..after it goes faulty..it effect everything..2 trouble code found..injection timing control,maf, light up..and now its top overhaul..blown head gasket..not sure if the head cracked or not..

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Originally Posted by patrolman123

Has anyone tried those billet maf sensor holders/housings. If so whats the benift??

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I'm using the maf housing and hi flow lid. Once put in I saw no difference what so ever. It's was only until I found I could screw up the boost a crap load more now is what made the difference. Pre fitment I could get no more than 16 psi. I have gone as high as 25 psi and still didn't get limp mode. Currently running 20 psi now.