Over boost wont damage anything, unless it gets over 30psi which it wont. Limp mode can be deactivated by simply lift the foot off the go pedal and back down again. The CEL will probably come on and will needed to be cleared using the scan gauge...
Printable View
Well the 3" exhaust went on yesterday, went for a 30 - 40 minute drive on the way home.
I got a resonator in place of a muffler and 200CPI cat. First impressions, maybe the most noticeable difference is an increase in cabin noise. I wouldn't call it annoying, it's like having mud tyres on, it's a noise that can be tolerated, but it is noisier than the stock exhaust. I reckon I got it right, I wanted as little restriction in the exhaust flow as possible with as little increase in noise as possible, so I'm happy with how that has turned out. Actually it was a bit windy yesterday, so some of that noise may have been wind through my roof rack.
Next would be throttle responsiveness. It is more responsive to the throttle and it seems to be more responsive to small throttle movements which is great as it helps with car control. I can also feel the motor exhaling more freely.
There's a little more of a rumble upon startup & shutdown which sounds nice. I can't notice any more turbo whistle which really doesn't bother me.
On boost levels, if anything I think they went down, the highest I saw was 13, didn't see a 15 which I regularly saw with the stock exhaust.
I didn't fit the exhaust my mechanic did and he said it bolted straight in no problems.
I reckon with what I've got versus what I paid it was a good purchase, I'm happy.
Now for the Dawse valve ......
One gauge in, the EGT gauge.
Attachment 71048
Looks good I reckon.
Only one issue mate. You cant see how fast you will be going after 170ks. Lol.
Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk
So the exhaust is fitted up and looking great. One thing though. The mechanic said he couldn't refit the heatshield as the probe for the EGT gauge is now in the way.
I stuck my hand down there after a 30 min drive and yep, it gets hot down there. What have others done here? There's that exhaust wrap stuff, I was thinking of wrapping that around the heater hoses as they are pretty close to the turbo. Does that stuff work backwards like that??
I was hoping to rig up some ducting from the front and point it at the area, but I'm not sure I'll be able to do that, there's not a lot of room.
Great thread so far - I'm happy I seem to have gone down the right path. 3" exhaust, dp chip and scan gauge. Dual pillar VDO egt and boost gauges.
Boost was still all over the place though. Jumping to 20 psi, then dropping to 10 then building back up to 15-16 psi - all while maintaining the same speed on a flat.
Fitted one of mudski's dawes/needle kits over the weekend and it stopped the erratic boost issues I was experiencing. Car is much nicer to drive with a smooth boost curve.
I used the instructions in mudski's kit and had everything up and running in a couple hours - car sits nicely on about 15-16psi at full boost and on 10psi at 100k's.
EGT's stay around 200-250 around town and only hit 400 when I'm right up it and drop again pretty quick.
I had my exhaust fitted by Berrima diesel and I see they cut the original heat shield in half to fit in the new dump pipe - worked out ok 'cause I had to get the egt probe fitted at a later date.
Interested to hear if anyone has tried any additional heat shielding - I heard sometimes the heat under the bonnets of gu's sometimes kill the aux battery - so far so good though.
Its good to see my jibberish is understood by fellow Patrollers. Thanks.
Why did BD cut the heat shield though? Its not that hard to remove, and the shield still can be used on any aftermarket zorst. I would have been quite annoyed if they did that to my car.
As for additional heat shielding. The heater wrap stuff is pretty effective on the dump pipe. I use this on mine, works really well. You just need to wear gloves when wrapping it on. Otherwise you will have some itchy hands for a while.
Yeah.....long hot story.... it was 38 degrees in Berrima that day- nearly cooked the missus
At the end of the day I didn't get charged for labour and was pretty happy with the attitude of the owner's young bloke - nice guys.
A good lesson in the need for clear communication when you're not talking directly to the mechanics doing the job.
Is that heat wrap stuff fibreglassy??
First real drive with the 3" zorst today. Great change. It picks up more quickly, it responds more quickly, it pulls for longer and I think it is better on fuel, I think I've only driven about 160ks today so it's a bit hard to tell??
But I think I've done really well.
Hi every one, i have been reading all the thread and im happy to see you having good results!!.
i know you already covered the EGT gauges topic, i fell in love with McNally but it goes over the budget i was contemplating
Hope you guys could tell me if this one i find on eBay will be relyable, i like what it says on the description.
Thank you for sharing your work
Attachment 71083Attachment 71084Attachment 71083Attachment 71084
Sorry for posting twice de images, i´m also goning to do some exhaust work as i like what i have read here :D
Since I finally found where to fix the turbo for my SD33T, and im planning to change its original position and move it a little to the top so i can do easier the piping for a FM IC. Any thoughts on this?
Cheers
Got my boost gauge today and the dawse kit from @mudski yesterday.
Got a peak boost of 17.6 yesterday taking off from a dead stop up a hill on the dirt. Boost is sitting on 10-12 at 100kmh, down from 13-13 pre zorst install.
Thats with the kit installed yeah? If so, I'd probably wind in the needle valve just a touch to get the 100k boost at around 12, and a little higher. The spool up on the turbo will increase a little too. But. You may not need to touch the needle valve though, if you think its fine. When you get the EGT gauge in, have a play around with the needle valve and you should see a difference in EGT's at 100k's with different adjustments.
Go easy if your going to use an exhaust wrap especially on a 4x4,
you'll find it will rust your pipes very quickly, if subjected to water.
Even race car and nascars dont use it for that reason
Agree.
I've got my dump pipe wrapped, and after mud runs above the wheels by tge time I popped the bonnet and had a look the wrap was almost dry..
To get the heat sheild off easily remove the actuator and sheild.
They heat sheild will come off easily over the top..
That 17 psi is that a spike?
Being manual I find its best to get it into 3rd and plant the foot around 1300rpm.
Itll spike a bit but you want it to settle at 15-16 psi..
I'm not wrapping anything, I'll get the mechinic to refit the heat shield when I get services in a few weeks.
I also looked at the 2nd battery holder. It has the end near the turbo fully enclosed if that makes any sense so that will deflect some of the turbo heat. I have some 3mm alloy sheet banging around in the shed, I'm going to make a simple shield to sit just off the battery holder, that should give the battery lots of protection.
One thing I've noticed over the past few days since the 3" zorst went on is the turbo fluctuating, I can feel the throttle pulsate now.
I'm looking forward to getting the Dawse installed in about 2 weeks and having this little project complete, it's been a great learning curve that I've enjoyed very much.
This has been a very educational thread for me and has prompted me to fit a needle valve.
I hope I'm not doing the wrong thing by butting in on this topic with a few questions of my own.
My vehicle - 1999 TD42 turbo ute with aftermarket intercooler. I had it dyno tuned a couple of years ago and they fitted a boost controller....I assume this is what is referred to as a Dawes valve ( it is plumbed in line between actuator and IC side of turbo)
1. I am getting a boost and EGT gauge - where is best place to put EGT probe, engine side of turbo or exhaust side ? I have read somewhere that temps are cooler on exhaust side. There is a threaded plug in exhaust manifold just before turbo so I'm guessing this would be a good place for probe.
2. I can't find a needle valve on the usual sites selling turbo related products, plenty of kits with needle and dawes combo. I found this item however, would it be suitable ?? https://www.valvesonline.com.au/pneu...eed-controller
@Kennedy the Dawes and Needle Valve are for the the 3L Di and CRD motors
EGT gauge supposedly you get a more accurate reading from the exhaust manifold and the max temp can be higher on that side. Most have it fitted to the dump pipe just after the turbo. If your dump pipe doesn't have a port then you can either get someone to weld the port on, or take your dump pipe off and then drill a hole and tap a thread in it.
You can just see mine here in this picture
Attachment 71205
Thanks for that gubigfish, I didn't realise my old dinosaur wasn't compatible with the hi-tech stuff...I guess its a bit like me!!
If I don't have a port in the dump pipe I can rectify that soon, my exhaust flex joint is shot so reckon I will replace the whole show with a 3"
OK. Fitted the Boost Gauge on Saturday ...
Attachment 71213
and unlit ...
Attachment 71214
Made myself a QED heatsink for the aux battery to protect it from the turbo heat this arvo ...
Attachment 71216
and
Attachment 71215
The heatsink sits off the battery holder so there's a small air gap (5mm) between the battery holder and the alloy sheet. It should make a difference and it's a QED product ;-)
To wrap this adventure up .....
With the help of @bigguwesty the Dawse & needle valves were installed on Saturday. It's real nice to watch the boost gauge sit steadily at a certain value and not go up and down like a darn yo-yo. Throttle response is improved as well and so is spool up time, the latter affecting the former no doubt.
It's probably just me, but it felt like the motor was more stable while driving and also at idle.
Thanks to @bigguwesty for all his help and patience trying to explain this 'dark art' to me, much appreciated mate.
Attachment 71247
so I now have my gauges fitted, only took the auto elec... 4 days and $800 :( still better than getting them done at ARB or TJM lol.
ok so I've got one major problem and after spending all day reading I'm starting to get confused:
problems
#1 egt hit 650 at 100ks on a flat straight,
#2 boost stayed around 4-6psi constantly apart from the odd occasion where it would climb to 10-12psi; so this I think is the priority as fixing this should effect egt's anyway. so this is were the CONFUSED part comes into play, can someone explain to me how the needle valve works and what effect it has on a stienbauer performance chip if any????
I will be going on a 3500k trip in the a few weeks but I only have one week at home before than so really need to get my head around this.
cheers Warwick
edit: and yes ive used the search function and yes I've read other post.
Ok after checking all hoses I'm certain that there is no cracking or leaks, although I desperately need a catch can.
@Warwick89, I'm far from being an expert in this area, but I suggest your high egts are due to low boost.
Have you mentioned what you've had done? I can see you have 3 gauges, did you get a dawse and needle valve installed?? If yes, I'd suggest your dawse valve needs to be screwed in a bit if your gauge contstantly shows only 4-6 psi, that's crazilly way too low. Try by screwing it in 1 turn and see how much more boost you get, if not, try 2 and see etc etc etc. Just beware that boost increases exponentionally so it'll be low, then all of a sudden way high.
Also, try starting your own 'help' thread, it may attract a few more eyeballs.
Good luck.
X 2 you need to increase your boost it is way to low,
Needle valve has nothing to do with your chip.
Have you noticed if your IC is oily?? if yes then
its leaking and will required a fully tigged and tested
IC
@10G sorry I had a few under my belt by the stage I wrote that.
I haven't installed a needle and/or dawes valve yet that was going to be my solution to the low boost issue I noticed after fitting the three gauges last week. my main worry was that the dawes and needle valve would effect the chip and tune in some way?? i am unaware of the relationship between them and the chip and tune.
So went for another drive this morning after replacing a dead crank battery :( and boost was roughly as follows:
12-14psi from 0-60kmh @2500rpm
6psi cruising at 60kmh @1800rpm
12-14psi while increasing speed to 80kmh @2500rpm
8-10psi at 80kmh cruising @2000rpm
boost was very minimal at lower speeds???
couldn't get 100kmh readings because traffic blocked up in cairns only 100km zone lol
ALSO egt's for all above were around 450-500deg