oh and wobbles under braking is warped brake rotors....engineering lolQuote:
Originally Posted by peterbr1
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oh and wobbles under braking is warped brake rotors....engineering lolQuote:
Originally Posted by peterbr1
8 pages ... and not one mention of disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes.
Time to settle in with a bag of Popcorn methinks
No it isnt, they are'nt warpedQuote:
Originally Posted by peterbr1
A patrol....Quote:
Originally Posted by peterbr1
Was just about to say the sameQuote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/11/104.jpg
LoL GQ or a GU???Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...sonPopcorn.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
You forgot P60, MK, MQ and Y62... just sayin' is allQuote:
Originally Posted by peterbr1
But I betcha he drives a white one
LOL this my show go get your own go on now gitQuote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
cmon kids get to de chowperQuote:
Originally Posted by Clunk
Your show... that's right I clearly didn't realise, sorry for entering the thread and raining on your paradeQuote:
Originally Posted by peterbr1
Wow, this escalated quickly. Is this normal for this forum?
peterbr1, I won't have time to pull the shims before the wheel balance. If that fixes the problem (and I'm not expecting it to) then I won't have to do it.
BillsGU, I'm going to Bob Jane's who do 4WD tyres, so I'll have a word to them about making sure the balance is done on the right machine. Thanks for the tip.
Ben-e-boy, I'll get the tyre guys to check the castor (I incorrectly called it the camber in my last post). Thanks for the tip, also.
However, as I said in my opening post, the dire warnings ("...just adds preload on the bearing, it's a bandaid fix...") are what I hear from a variety of people, but I have yet to learn of a single person who has actually had problems caused by removal of the shims. The amount of people who must have done this fix should have resulted in at least one or two reported failures. I'm trying to hear about them.
Please be aware that I'm not trying to be antagonistic. Warnings are cool: I like them. They mean I can assess a risk. But if that risk has no evidence of occurring then the warning is ultimately one that has a very low, or even zero, priority. This is a standard risk assessment outcome, if you've ever needed to do this sort of thing.
No mate it is not normalQuote:
Originally Posted by PullsyJr
No but it's heaps of fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by PullsyJr
Ok, fair enough. Crawling through the forums I'm not seeing this sort of... ahem... banter all that much. But like everywhere on the internet it's hard to tell.
Hi
Just removed the shims from my 2010 Patrol
no shake for the first 60,000km
But fitted new tyres and it started, put the old rims and tyres back on and still there?
So did caster correction bushes greased &adjusted wheel bearings, new shock new steering damper Wheel alignment and Caster check all ok but shimmy still there.
So lifted front end and placed on stands removed wheels.
checked resistance full lock to full lock.
water blasted off all the muck, then loosened all crews for the king pin bearing carriers
Placed jack under the hub and slight nip removed lowwer bearing inspected and greased then removed shimm and refitted
same for top bearing tested lock to lock and no difference.
Whilst inspecting noticed the top L/H bearing had grease acoross the bearing load surface all others shiny
Test drive and shimmy gone
So will plan to re grease and re test every 20,000 km from now on
Happy with result
regards
Joe
Apology accepted good boy ben-e Oh I was only kidding............about the show thing it was aimed at Mudski and Clunk for funQuote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
Sorry bout that Pullsyjr, just hate it when people come and say things like band aid fix's and the like, then start blurting off crap like lathe time etc etc it just sounds like they love the sound of their own voice, I would have been more sensible had he show a little respect and discretion to this issue im only trying to help, I was mostly being sarcastic to the 'ahem...banter' so once again I do apologise.Quote:
Originally Posted by PullsyJr
Nah, no apologies required. I understand the frustration. I'm also partial to some verbal ("textual" sounds rude) sparring. And that bag of popcorn... Oh lord, I need it now!
Cool, cheers mate. Popcorn is fattening isn't it lolQuote:
Originally Posted by PullsyJr
I hate the shoit!.... lolQuote:
Originally Posted by peterbr1
As for my Patrol this is what i did to remove the wobbles which i had a bugger of a time. Tighten my wheel bearings. Whilst the wheels felt good on the stands only just the slightest of movement. So i nipped them up and all has been great since.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
Hi All
Its been a little while since I started this thread and nice to see everyone being so helpful and providing some good suggestions and ideas.
Well I am very sad to say that alot has been done with no result.
My discovery was that i put it in to have the shims taken out just to try it and Blow me over with a feather--There wasn't any. At some stage they had been removed so obviously having no shims didn't help my problem. I have since had the king Pin bearings replaced and new shims put in top and bottom. Also every bush etc replaced and everything checked from top to bottom.
After i had the last lot of work it was fine for about a week, with only a slight vibration but now it has come back; maybe not quite so bad but its back.
Apart from tearing my hair out and buying a can of petrol I don't know what else to try.
Am thinking I might go to a steering specialist -- just worth a shot as everything else i have tried has had little or no success. Thinking of contacting Nissan and making it known I am not happy jan and have alot of patrol owners with the same issue. I know they know of it but it can't hurt to raise the isssue again.
Mrs H
What tyres are you running, might be time to look at maybe running some
balancing beads inside the tyre. I'm not a fan but others may be able to help
This probably has been checked but this solved my wobble issues for good. Even when running 35s.
where the inner wheel bearing sits on the stub axle it had worn away at the section where the seal runs by maybe .5mm. Kinda hard to explain... i have my old stub axles if you want a pic.
But i had the wobbles pretty bad. If first changed one side, not due to the wobbles but because the wheel bearings would work lose. I would nip them up, then i would check the wheels say a few weeks later and it was lose. I noticed the wear groove so i replaced this side. I did the other side maybe six months later as it was also worn. And ever since. I havent had to retighten the wheel bearings and the wobbles have gone.
Might help, might not.
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
I had the same wobble at around 80 to 90kms when I bought the gu a few months ago and thru research on this forum systematically started looking at things to change but thought I would start with springs and shocks as originals were sagging and guess what wobbles are gone but one thing I did notice when taking wheels off to do Spring change was a lot of mud road grime on inside of rims in deep on standard steel 16in rims so I broke out the gerni and cleaned them up so all the gunk was gone
Hey something easy to check and it worked for me
Get out and get it dirty
HiQuote:
Originally Posted by jcwbute
had all springs and shocks done. All bushes, panhards etc, new steering damper, new tyres fitted and balanced, wheel alignment, all bearings and everything checked and double checked. As for dirt and mud my GU has never been off road or on the beach. Its certainly original. I have standard rims and tyres also. no big chunkies or lifts.
Mrs h
Hi Ronnie
PM sent
Chimo
Hi Ronnie
Hows your front end!!!!???
Cheers
Chimo
usually bushes somewhere
Yep that's why some go for the beads due to the fact local balancing machine cant do the job properly in the first place.Quote:
Originally Posted by BillsGU
[QUOTE=peterbr1;642006]Agree x10.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben-e-boy
Removing a shim "can" tighten things up.
"BUT the bearing is worn unevenly" so it is only a bandaid at best.
If ya remove a bearing cap and then wipe the bearing cup surface clean, now take a look at it, you'll notice wear spots, this is where the rollers in the bearing sits while the steering is in straight ahead position, the marks are low spot on the cups surface.
This is where the play is, and removing shims only pushes the bearings into these low spots but the rest of the bearing is now over tight so hence a bandaid.
Over tight bearings will only damage themselves at an accelerated rate hence again bandaid.
The point that has also been touched on is mass production.
Not every chassie leaves the factory the same there will always be some degree of misalignment during assembly add to that years of wear n tear creates
different issues and more or less repair to fix it.
This is why I previously touched on get a print out of "check alignment machines readings for all angles etc" as trying to fix something with hit and miss is
is very frustrating.
Another reason I mentioned, 1 degree correction per inch of lift rule of thumb may not work, get and check alignment figures and go
from there.
Yes 1 " per inch of lift has worked for some, but as I said not every chassie is the same.
Get alignment figures first, before you spend your hard earned money, that being said yes you can fix the obviously worn panhard and trailing arm bushes etc first, but caster correction needs to be a known figure before you waste money setting the wrong angle if the book states you need x amount of angle, setting it near is only near, and not correct and will cause further issues ie tyres wearing uneven again! and the wobble will return.
As for the car pulling to the left, well Japan has much flatter rds than we do and chassie design and testing is done on those rds in Japan, add to that chassie miss alignment, wear n tear etc is the reason.
The idea of they are designed to pull to the left is just trying to explain why they are doing it and not taking into account the camber of our rds leaning to the left more than the oem design and test surfaces in the first place.
My beloved Ute started getting the wobbles about 6 months ago.
Has just under 500K of Ks on it
Can't remove the shims 'cause it doesn't have any.
Took the plates off and rotated them 180 degrees.
Wobbles gone... for now... prob be good for, meah, 50K give or take.
Next time the wobbles resurface I'll do the Bearings etc.