The special timing tool what does it look like and why 0.76mm @TDC
Printable View
The special timing tool what does it look like and why 0.76mm @TDC
Hi, hows the conversion going? I'm just starting the same sort of project except i bought the whole car and am giing from tb42 manual on gas to turbo td42 automatic.
Is yours up and running yet or still going?
It sounds like it will be a good thing when it's all finished.
Like you i'm sick of spending more time at the petrol station than home.
:thumbup:
Hi Pezzer,
Its just a normal clock gauge but a special holding tool is needed to place it in the rear of the diesel pump... If you have a look at this : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OI_i...ature=youtu.be you will see what i mean.
0.76mm was used by me as the specifications were stated as 0.70mm @TDC for the standard NA system, as i am running a turbo i advanced this to 0.76mm to compensate for the extra air in the mixture being produced by the turbo, this was a guess at 0.76mm but i had been informed by others that this is the magic number that ppl are finding works well.
Cheers
Thanks for the interest Carsurgeons, not quite there yet mate but is certainly getting close to me ripping out the BBQ system and installing a proper motor.
Update time...
My first Setback...
Ok so having previously purchased my DTS manifold and having got my Turbo I have encountered a massive problem. The dump pipe on the turbo catches on the water pressure relief valve on the side of the block with will not allow me to fit the turbo and manifold… DAM ! ..
Ok so why won’t this fit …. The Turbo is not the issue as it has the same outlet as the standard HT18, and the turbo is a TD05 which is identical in size to the Garret, Mitsubishi and other brands… The difference has to be the manifold flange location / angle…
Having looked at my setup and that of a standard manifold my fears are realised, the DTS manifold sits the turbo 40mm further forward than that of the standard Manifold and thus when I put the dump pipe on the rear of the turbo the water pressure relief valve fouls the dump preventing it being fitted…
I contacted MTQ at Dandenong and they said to bring the entire setup down and they would have a look at it and see if I had any options regarding dump pipe spacers etc, but alas my manifold is not useable with this configuration dump pipe…. Now I have to return my DTS manifold for a refund and go with the standard Nissan Manifold or the original plan of a Radius Fabrications manifold.
I think I am going with the standard Manifold option and I don’t want to risk the same problems with a manifold from QLD, the DTS manifold wasn’t so much of a problem as I only live just down the road to MTQ so I could return it without any postage getting involved, but if the same happened with the RADFAB one I would have to arrange freight etc. and it’s a headache I don’t need..
I contacted Patrolapart in Lillydale and they can supply me a brand new Nissan Original T3 manifold for a good price but not until the end of the month as they have them on back order from Japan… Bugger !!
Bottom line is I am spewing I cant use the DTS manifold as it has an awesome reputation and would have been much more efficient than the Nissan one. But hey it is what it is so I will just suck it up and move on.
Attachment 57240 Attachment 57241
hey mate great pics. Bugger about the manifold. Can't wait to hear it running.My conversion is just about to start,and i will use a lot of your useful information So thanks for all the info.
All good mate,
If you have any questions or if i can help feel free to drop me a PM and if i can help i will...
Having said that, my journey is not over yet.. lol i will breath a sigh of relief once its in running and passed VASS (Victorian Mod plate)
my mate just had a ford transit mod plated with a rb30 skyline motor and box and also a turbo , what a job , but that was in qld. i think it will need some brake upgrades. how is yours going?
Thanks mate.
Foundation brakes are the same on the TB42E and TD42T the booster pump is the only difference as the TD42T does not produce engine vacuum, hence it has a vac pump on the timing gear (Mine is the newer type that doesn't have the pump on the alternator).
The only thing i can think of is that i may need a larger Vac canister or an additional one to hold more volume but will see how i go..
Mine is stalled at the moment due to no time to work on it and having no exhaust manifold at the moment. But i have ordered a few more bits that should arrive in the next few days.
Just a silly question mate but why is there a plate between the manifold and the turbo flange and also why not make your own dump pipe?? It'll be the easiest option i rekon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyh
The spacer is there to prevent the turbine housing coming into contact with the manifold outlet, as i am using a bigger than standard turbo housing.
The dump pipe i wanted to retain the original configuration so that if i cant pass VASS with my turbo i can swap it over for a crappy HT18 turbo to get my blue plate.
I could have fabricated a vband type turbo dump pipe and it would have fitted the DTS manifold no problem, i just decided to go a different way on the dump pipe.
Cheers
Had a delivery at work today. My two hard fuel lines that run across the bulkhead and my fuel filler neck and cap turned up from NISS4X4. It’s getting so close to fitting date now I can start to feel a tingling in the ole sac:Yahoo!:, shame that the Manifold is the holdup though otherwise I think I would have had a 100% built motor by now.
I am doing a trip this weekend, so hopefully that will be the last time I fill up with that crappy LPG stuff, I will run it dry on the way home and just use petrol from there on in to get me home, then the following weekend I will rip all the gas system out.
I just really hope that the manifold from Patrolapart arrives as planned or I will be spewing, cos it will put me back no end.
Finally I also landed a bit of bargain on Gumtree, I found a bonnet scoop with insulator for my top mount intercooler for a mere $60, when I went to collect it, found it was in excellent condition. Another fine result!
Attachment 57475
Its because you are using that dirty cast dump pipe. Yuck. Shoulda just run the gauntlet.
mmm, thats the standard one mate.. the 3" one does look a heap better, but like i say i stand by my decision to go with the standard dump just in case i do have to change it over, im hoping not, but hey......
Just a minor setback really.. Ya live n learn hey :)
Last trip this weekend then i start to pull out the BBQ fuel and prepare for engine removal... excited much ???? Farrrrkkkkkkk Yeah ... lol
Update time, been a bit slack on the diary up keep as I have had the mother of all colds. I was off sick from work all last week due to a serious chest infection that laid me up for days following a 4wd trip to the haunted stream, the trip was awesome with all the crossings producing water on the bonnet so it was so worth it…
Anyway back to it, after I had recovered from my epic illness I absolutely smashed out the progress with the help of two good friends that came to my assistance. Deano and Stuart both kindly gave up there Saturday arvo to come and help me rip the motor out of the truck..
I started early Saturday morning by removing the LPG tank and all the feed lines from the filler neck to the tank and from the tank to the converter, this was relatively easy to do on my own with the aid of a trolley jack to take the weight of the LPG tank while it was lowered, I instantly gained about 5mm of lift clearance to.
I then removed the filler neck and replaced it with a diesel one (This is due to the larger filler nozzle folks so don’t forget to do this or you will be Sorley disappointed when you rock up to the servo !).
I now had to trace the wires back from the electrical side of the LPG and this is not my strong point, so I left this to Stuart as he is more qualified to look at this than me, while i was waiting for Stu I decided to start to ID tag all of the engine bay electrical connections & pull out the battery and the air intake system.
It’s amazing once you actually get into it how quickly the motor gets stripped out, before I knew it Stuart was here and the LPG electric system was completely removed, we then both concentrated on getting the motor bolt on items stripped off in order to remove the motor from the truck.
After a fair bit or work we had the motor to the point of almost being ready to hoist out, the only thing that I needed to do now was to unbolt the engine mounts and the bell housing mounts, by now it was already 4pm & Stuart had to depart for a few hours to book in a job with a client, so I just continued to plod along bit by bit, approximately 30 mins after Stuart left Deano arrived to lend a hand and his timing could not have been better, it was with Dean’s help and perseverance that the top two bolts in the engine / bell housing were finally removed and the TB motor was free to be lifted out of the car..
With the motor now removed it was time to call it a day (8PM) and, Stuart returned around to survey the damage and we spent the rest of the evening pondering the next stage… The following day I headed out again and ripped out the belly tank and charcoal canister mounting bracket, I then changed over the bell housing for the diesel one and re fitted the clutch fork assembly..
That’s It Motor Is out and now im preparing to drop in the Diesel, the only thing I need to do first is to change my power steering lines over to suit the diesel as the pump is on a different side. I am also still waiting delivery of my Turbo Manifold from Patrolapart, hopefully I should get this part this week cos if I don’t its going to really hold me up, because for the moment it’s a fully complete Flintstone’s conversion..
More to follow – Watch this space
Attachment 57755
Attachment 57756
Attachment 57754
Attachment 57752
Attachment 57753
Will you clean and paint engine bay while it's empty ?
lol, i would like to say yes, but in reality .... no cos it will get smothered in crap after my first real drive anyway.... lol
Ooh nice 1!! Starting to come together now, won't be long before it's back on the road. . .
Hopefully not mate, just got to iron out where the temperature sender wires are and how to hook it up, Im also thinking i might have to change my Oil pressure sender over from the TB to the TD as i don't think the TD has the gauge, it has no vac line on the sender, so i just have to figure out where the vac line goes as mine fell off the TB when i disconnected the plug and i have no idea where it goes at this point. lol
A good gernie should clean it up a bit while the motor is outQuote:
Originally Posted by Andyh
Woop Woop.
Looks like my power steering lines have arrived at work today so i can get on with swapping these over now.
Next stop will be pick up the manifold bolt on the turbo, plumb in all the lines and fit the TD in to the trol
I'm going to be busy this weekend
I like reading these threads, some of you guys are pretty damned good at this sort of stuff.
Either that or were all just incredibly lucky.... :smileyvault-cute-bi
Ok so now its getting close i thought i had better get some Boost and Pyro gauges sorted out...
I have seen some gauges I like, I think I am going to go with the EVO led type, they look quite good, time will tell i guess.
Am i correct in assuming that a good EGT should not go over about 400 ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfvDBA1DBI0
Time for another update.
I have just had an epic weekend in the shed with the poo-troll, I started with a trip to patrol-a-apart on Saturday morning to pick up my TD42t exhaust manifold, while I was there I also picked up a new fuel tank sender and a 2 gauge pillar pod, unfortunately I didn’t get a lot else done on the Saturday due to other things that I needed to do, but I did get around to fitting the turbo and manifold to the block and then clocking and aligning the turbo body to suit.
Finally I managed to get into it on Sunday for a full on day with the help of my daughter’s boyfriend I finally managed to get the flywheel & clutch fitted onto the Diesel motor, but again this was not without a few dramas of its own, firstly I am so glad that I checked the clutch plate on the gearbox spindle because yep, I had been given the wrong size clutch plate. There is no way in hell this clutch would have allowed me to refit the motor to the gearbox, so I am so glad I checked it first… Anyway, I had a backup plan which luckily worked out ok, the clutch out of the TB42 is the same as the TD and the TB Clutch looked like a brand spanker anyway so that was it, I removed the TB clutch and fitted it to the TD. If the clutch fails later down the track, it will be going into the shop to be replaced, cos I’m not going through that again!
Ok so clutch now aligned and fitted ok, it was time for the Diesel to be dropped in the gaping hole in the front of the troll… LOL and here we were engine hoisted on the lift as far as it would go and it still didn’t clear the front slam panel, so after I let the tyres down it just snuck over the front and was ready to be lowered into position. The motor was lowered into the hole and with a little bit of messing around we finally got it in the right position to be pushed up to the gearbox.
Here’s where the fun really started, it was an absolute pig to get the engine on the clutch spline, my previous experience of changing clutches out had taught me these things either go really well first time or they are a royal pain in the arse, and it looked like mine was going to be a pain in the arse. It was a little difficult to get the motor and transmission aligned to the point of a jiggle and push would see the two parts mate up, but alas no matter what I did it wouldn’t go on.
About 10 mins into the game Deano popped over to lend a hand and eventually after about 40 mins we finally had the motor on the gearbox. The main problem I had here was I must have been so engrossed in the fitting of the motor I forgot to put the gearbox in gear.. lol so every time I jiggled the motor to try to get the spline to align, the spindle on the box just spun.. lol Doh !
From here on in we had to get the motor back on the engine mounts, here was my next mistake, I used the GU mounts (TD mounts and the TB rubbers) lol I mixed them up during the removal by mistake so needless to say this want going to work, It’s a good Job that Scuba Stu turned up to lend a hand also as he was the one who lead me to think wrong mounts!! … Oh dear, oh well up with the engine and box to clear the mounts and replace the mounts with the 4 hole rubber not the two!! .. Hahahaha, its amazing how well it all fitted with the correct mounts…
Ah well that concluded my day, the sooty is sitting in place and is bolted in to the gearbox and engine mounts, All I have to do now is start to fit the bolt-ons such as starter, air intake, fuel lines, filters, etc etc. I then with Scuba’s help I need to do the electrical stuff.
Hopefully next weekend I may be in a position to crank it over and hopefully hear my investment in time and $$ over the last 6 months come to life…
Attachment 57899 Attachment 57900 Attachment 57901
Scuba was so pleased it went in he got a little excited and pashed my motor.
Attachment 57902
Good stuff mate that is a big step forward.... keep em comin !!!!!
Nice one, that motor looks pretty sexy all clean and shiny :) . . . Won't be long now. . .
Awesome work! What a feeling of relief it is to have it sitting in place. Are you local to the Northern suburbs? You can use mine as a guide to wire things up. I don't mind swinging by & lending a hand if need be.
Hi mate thanks for the offer and a second pair of eyes is always welcome, however i am actually in the SE Burbs (Skye) and not the northern Burbs.. I think i have got to nail down this electrickry this weekend and do have one or two good people that can help out, however if your in the area give me a buzz and i can drop you my address.Quote:
Originally Posted by GQJETT
Here is a curly question for anyone...... Can anyone advise what size bolts the Starter Motor needs, i saved the 2 from the TB Motor and just got another one the same but the bloody TD bolts are slightly bigger and i have no idea what thread they are in order to buy some new ones from a hardware store. I called Nissan this morning any they cant help me, they advised contacting a wrecker, so i did that and they cant help me either (I suspect they have the bolts but just cant be bothered to go get them and post them) I have an awesome bolt / hardware store just up the road from my home, but i need to know what size.... I have been told its Maybe M14 X1.25 but this is not 100%
I am also after a place that might be able to get the engine harness connectors i have a couple of broken ones that i want to replace and again Nissan are about as helpful as a sharp kick in the dick...
..... Anyone ... Please..... ?? ? ? ? ? ? ?
Not sure if Mudski sells that sort of thing?? probably not as they would not be a big selling item.
Not 100% sure but I think the thread for the starter is a fine one as I remember being under the car for 700 years undoing the bolts??
I'll ask on one of the face ache groups.
Thanks BA.... I know i can get bolts no drama, i just need the spec... lol
Hi mate it probably wont be 14mm x 1.25 but
rather 14mm x 1.50 which is basically a spark plug thread
If you still have the OE hook on the front of the chassis try one of those bolts
I've never heard of 14mm x 1.25 being used on a patrol
Thanks threedogs, i will give that a go... If they fit then i can go take the bolt to my bolt joint and get some..
ok , so i have the info i need, for anyone interested...
TD42 Starter motor bolt size is - - - 12mm x 1.75mm pitch and 35 mm long ( from under the head )
Information courtesy of ATOC Auto Repairs 13 Temple Rd Belgrave South, 3160, Victoria, Australia
Just a heads up people, The thread size quoted above is not correct, the bolts are indeed 12mm threads but the pitch is not 1.75mm i have no idea what pitch it is so i am just going to go to the bolt store on saturday and buy every version of a 12mm bolt there is sooner or later one will fit... :D
Anyway i was out in the garage again last night and got a fair bit done, no photos though sorry......
Picked up my 100amp Relay for the Manual glow circuit.
Fitted the air conditioning pump (Now needs to be re-gassed)
Fitted the fuel lines that run across the bulkhead
Fitted the fuel filter /lift pump
Fitted the fan assembly and Radiator
Drank 4 beers while working :D
More to follow as i will be back out there again tonight...
I ended up putting my primer on the drivers side where it goes on the GU and there are even the threads there for it to bolt straight up as long as you have the GU bracket.. saves a bit of priming time as less distance to travel.
GQjett says he has a couple of bolts for the starter at his place but he is also in the North.... he is not sure of the thread but maybe get him to take some pics of the bolts.
I'll text him.
Thanks BA, i have sent him an SMS..
Has chappy got back to you yet?
As for the charcoal canister i removed all the fittings and lines under the bonnet but left the one that goes the length of the car.
Yep, we had a bit of a chat yesterday via SMS, the bolt size is still not clear as the spare ones could not be located, GQjett kindly offered to remove one of his and measure it for me but i said thanks but no, i couldn't ask him to do that..
I did however get a small result from Nissan in Dandenong, the parts guy was helpful, unlike Franga, and although he could not tell me the size of the bolt (apparently its not identified on the microfiche) he could give me the part number and ordered me 5 (MOQ). They are at the store now but i cant get there til Saturday due to being locked in a box in the city.
On my way i am also going to get a couple of smaller pitch threaded 12mm bolts from the hardware store, just in case, i figure for the cost of the bolts, they may always be handy to have in the bolts box.
I headed back out there last night but as it was so cold i just lost all motivation and didn't get a great deal done to be honest, I fitted the radiator hoses and shroud, started to look at the airbox mods, drilled the holes to mount it, but i need a connector hose between the safari snorkel and the back of the airbox so couldn't bolt that in. I need fuel line and a few sundries to complete some of the bits i have to do, like pluming in the fuel lines to the pump, I need intake and intercooler hoses, hose clamps, I now know i need a new throttle cable as the LPG one is too long internally, unless there is another adjuster i haven't seen yet.
I think the cold blast got to me last night because it all got a bit difficult after an hour or two. Maybe i will find some more motivation today, but i am totally restricted what i can do because i cant get to any shops that sell the parts i need til the weekend... We may not see soot this weekend after all, i still have so much to do....
I suffer from the cold to mate..... as for the throttle cable yes they are different and you cannot use your old one.
Sounds like you are chipping away and as long as you get a little done most days then you are moving forward.
I remember when i did mine, there were some cooold nights in the shed in the middle of winter. But you may as well enjoy it, no point battling away for the sake of it, it's done when is done i reckon . . . . Sounds like its pretty close now :)