The Coil Tower strengthening kit arrived today. A tough, looking bit of kit. Gotta go and speak to a mate about using his hoist and a bit of muscle to install it.
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The Coil Tower strengthening kit arrived today. A tough, looking bit of kit. Gotta go and speak to a mate about using his hoist and a bit of muscle to install it.
Can you waterproof my engine :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Sounds like a road trip is on the cards. Gotta get hold of an air horn pump so I can pressurise the timing belt cover and distributor. The Fuel Miser dissy cap already has a moulded in nipple so that will be easy.
I've already got one plumbed up to the dizzy. Never used it though, always been worried about the dizzy being too well sealed and blowing the plug leads off haha. Also, I need to mount the air horn somewhere better, back of the engine bay probably won't be much good to me. Just a shame they're so noisy.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
here a pic of one already welded in hope it helpsQuote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
I am thinking of installing it under the dash, or maybe using the ARB compressor with a regulator turned right down. I have extended the compressor inlet up to to a quarter panel trim so it wont suck water.Quote:
Originally Posted by Throbbinhood
Thanks, TD. I got the bolt on type from Superior Engineering.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
What a mongrel job. The first hurdle has fitting the brace to the top of the coil tower. The LH tower was warped and the holes didn't line up so I had to drill a few out.
The arm that attaches to the rear cross member uses a U bolt. I recommend trimming the threads a bit before fitting it as trying to do the nuts up takes bloody ages.
The brace arm has bent while trying to tighten the adjusting bolt. I don't know if that will cause it to flex or not.
The RH tower has a few small bolts holding the brake hoses and the tabs holding these were broken but some multigrips clamped them, just!
As the tower was bent up I was able to force the brace in without damaging the brake and fuel lines, by the barest of margins.
The rear arm is gonna be almost impossible to tighten unless I remove the fuel hoses.
I thought I could fit the braces in a couple of hours, but It will be a 12 hour job. The main criticism is that the adjusting bolts supplied are too short by at least 15mm..
A 12 hour job that is gunna end up being an 18 hour job. I straightened the LH side by undoing all the bolts on the arm and using a hefty G clamp and 12mm thick piece of steel across the bent piece. With the clamp in place, I set the adjustment and torqued the three bolts FT then removed the clamp.
I tackled the RH side and found it easier to tighten the U bolt nuts up, with the arm dangling down then lifting it up and bolting it to the brace, which meant I only had to torque U bolt nuts.
After I had positioned the springs and the supplied urethane spacers, I struggled to get the bastards to stay in position. Even with Mrs mudsane operating the trolley jack, I found it extremely hard to get the springs to sit over the urethane. I eventually gave up, removed the offending bits and used a hoof trimmer to cut a bevel on the rubber. After a few goes I finally got the springs in and the shockers and panhard on.
I decided to check everything and noticed that the two centre bolts of the brace were long enough to interfere with the brake and fuel lines.
I had to drop everything, remove the RH spring and centre bolts. I cut 8-9mm off the bolts, replaced them and fitted the springs and suspension again.
Sounds like a hard days work !!
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I have fitted the snorkel and am waiting for the paint to dry before fitting the inner plastic and flare. I can't wait to do a long trip to see if I get better mileage.
After a bit of drama, I have a new snorkel. I have explained what happened here: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...k-Your-Snorkel
I now have to make a plug of some sort for the pre-heat inlet of the filter housing. I sprayed a bit of Start Ya Bastard around any possible places that could let in water.
The engine revs increased a when I sprayed bit near the filter to dust collector pipe and also the pre-heat inlet and pre-heat diaphragm.
A bit of silicon around the bottom of the diaphragm housing has fixed that bit, but I will need to make the plug removeable as the carby struggles a bit in the colder months.
To further enhance water proofing the engine intake, I have bought a brass reducer that uses a brass 1" plug.
Using the copper-based silicon, I have glued the reducer into the Pre-heat elbow on the filter housing.
This allows me to seal off the pre-heat flap instead of having to engineer some sort of seal on the flap itself.
I have also put a ball bearing inside the diaphragm vacuum hose so it doesn't lift the flap and cause a constriction of the air flow.
Now I can still run the pre-heat in winter, and seal it up for off road trips and it looks stock and road worthy.
The first picture is of the driving lights I was given.
In the engine bay, the water proof box next to the battery is for the headlight relays. There is a small black box behind the battery for the driving light relays and fuses.
Only a small job but it has made life that little bit easier in the cabin. I have built a larger storage box under the radio. I used an old stereo's housing in which I glue a piece of wood to act as a lip at the front, then glued carpet inside. It is around 3-4 cm deeper, 1 1/2 cm higher and around 3-4 cm wider than the pissy little plastic original.The bottom of the box is also at a deeper angle than it used to be. Combined with the lip, it will take a lot more for the contents to slip out.
It looks a little bit crappy as there is only some black tape on the front. I will paint it black, one day.
Your an ideas man Craig.
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Did you get around to fitting an air horn pump up to the dizzy, you'll needQuote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
a needle valve or similar to adjust the flow.
Pretty sure I have one here I can post to you, basically brand new.
No, John, have had other stuff that needed attending to. I have found an old air regulator in my shed , so it mght be able to be fitted. But thanks anyway, mate.
Wow, your engine bay is so clean!
I don't know why. The bay has only been washed once in the 3-4 years I've had the Old Trol, and that was when I had to take it through the Surrey River. One thing about having a clean engine, is that fluid leaks are easily diagnosed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Throbbinhood
I have been checking and studying the fuel breather system, with the ultimate goal of fitting an auxilary fuel tank. I have found that the breather filter attached to the tank is connected directly to the canister in the engine bay.
Does anyone know if this is standard for a '94 model or has it been modified?
Took a step back and removed the reducer and plug from the pre-heat system as I found that it was using more fuel. I will have to manufacture a some sort of plug that will fit properly.
I have finished an engine stand with large enough wheels to handle the rough floors of my sheds. It is made of about 90% recycled material. Now, I'll buy some decent 12mm bolts for it and also make a temporary clean room so I can strip an engine I have bought from a wrecker.
After many complaints from passengers, especially in the third row, regarding the harshness of the ride with the 2" lift. I have fitted the standard springs and new rear shocks. It drives like a totally different beast, smooth and stable. I think the problem is the springs were meant for a TB42 with roof rack, sliders winch and rear drawers. The RB30 block and gearbox are a fair bit lighter than the TB.
I will keep the lift, because I still want to set the Old Trol up as a tourer.
Made a vinyl sleeve to slip over the D/S visor to prevent sun damage to my ear.
Simple to use: slide it back to fill the gap left by the visor. Slide it forward and clip up the visor as per normal.
Your an ideas man Craig. Good stuff!
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Funny, I drove a hyundai terrracan today and noticed it had these factory fitted. First time I've seen that and commented how good an idea that was, then you post up yours on same day! Nice work mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
And here, I thought I was being original.
Was a hire car this terracan, and had been driving it for nearly two weeks and never noticed it. Today (well actually yesterday now) driving along my passenger noticed it and yep there they were on both visors. Gave us something to discuss through stark boring central QLD coalfield country. Apart from the grouse burgers we had in Emerald that was the highlight of our day haha!Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Thanks to Mudski posting pics with his winch build today, I was reminded to order some Dyneema and a fairlead, so I can service my winch and fit the rope.
I will weld a steel eye on the winch drum to secure the rope, and have another go at fixing the brake. I will also be able to move the number plate down onto a spring loaded hinged mount that covers the fairlead too.
Took the old steel cable off, and replaced it with some dyneema. Forgot how bloody heavy the steel cable is! Fitted the fairlead and used the winch to take the water tank off of its pad. A section of the concrete skirt cracked and allowed some rodents to tunnel under the tank.
Using the dyneema is so much easier on the spine, and the winch doesn't run on as much either.
Finally got the engine swap done, due to the crankshaft being wrecked by a loose harmonic balancer bolt.
Had the engine builder tune it today. Not bad for an RB30 with a stock carby.
I pulled the winch out today and welded a steel loop from the shoulder to the drum.
So how do I attach the rope? Do I just thread the rope through and tie a big knot, or do I splice an eye around the loop?
A knot will suffice. The anchoring is via the compression of the rope and friction with the wraps around the drum. If you cast your mind back to the steel cable, its a simple crimp, and has zero load capability.
No worries. After watching how the lug can be stripped from the rope during a winch comparison, I've wanted make that Impossible to occur. This morning, I had the rope fully extended to one layer on the drum, to rip some over hanging branches off a dead tree. I was very luck not to have the lug rip out.
This little Aldi winch made the Old Trol (in 4L with the hand brake reefed on as tight as I could get it) skip across the paddock when doing some of the thicker branches.
Now, to get the brake mechanism to function.
@PeeBee At 2:20 minutes you can see the rope pulling the lug out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBp9fVsD_I4
Craig, the instructions should read something along the lines of having a minimum number of wraps on the drum before putting load on the cable, something like 4-6 wraps as a guide and this is a minimum. The lug will come away from the rope because its not a structural element and never designed to take load. The PTO winches and I think a lot of the high mount winch guys use the loop and knot anchor, but its not to allow the winch to be able to use more cable, it simply a better termination for the end of the rope.
I understand that, Phil. my winch still had 12 plus wraps today, (no instructions came with the rope) but the winch on the vid had multiple layers and still let go. I actually thought the first branch would break a lot easier than it did. All the others were done with a hell of a lot more rope on the drum, and that is when the vehicle was towed across the paddock.
If the load is put onto the rope when the wraps are not tight right from the start, the force will act straight on the lug as the compression and friction elements are not in play. I reckon your 12 wraps is a good safe proposition. I try not to go less than 8 and thats with load on the rope from the start. I have tried a pull without the line being loaded up and the cable pulled straight out of the lug - put me in a very difficult position as I was stuck on a steep pinch at the time , then without a winch. I didn't watch the video, as seem to recall seeing it ages ago. Are you saying the vehicle actually was pulled towards the tree? There is nothing wrong with the Aldi winch in my mind. It will do the job and thats all you need - right?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Craig, had a quick watch, and all I could assume is that the rope is so slippery and the coefficient of friction so low between the rope and the drum that the clamping action simply didn't take place on those winches - which is really surprising , no friction so the lug takes the pull - food for thought and I might just ensure a greater number of wraps that what i have used previously
Yep it did pull the patrol toward the tree. Apart from having water ingress, (which I found after buying it), the only trouble I've had with the winch is the brake system has never worked. I've tried a few times to get it going. But since the unit was second hand I think the previous owner had fiddled with it and had refitted it incorrectly.
Is your brake the style with the expanding spring inside the drum? I have overhauled 4 of these chinese winches myself. I also had a 'dod ear' break, and was able to source a replacement from TJM and also Milemarker in the US.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Its a funny arrangement. I'll get some pics tomorrow.