MYSTERY ISSUE. Doing my head in. Please Help!

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Originally Posted by Evo

Ok,

So after the fancy diagnosing session, which cost $77, the issue has been somewhat narrowed down.
The mechanic recommended I get my engine mounts replaced as they are in need of it, as he said it seems to be the plating either side of the rubber (where the plates are bent to hook into each other) as there is basically no clearance here due to the rubber having collapsed a lot.
If there is still an issue, he recommends clutch next, and has told me that rest of driveline is good.
After hearing all this, I'm still not sure whether to believe what I'm told, but engine mounts are a cheap start, so fingers crossed.
And I'll need a clutch later anyhow, I have known this since last year, but the longer I can put it off, the better.
Plus I'll get onto the auto-manual hub conversion over the weekend hopefully.
With the locking hubs, I was going to use some medium strength loctite on the cap head bolts. Is this ok or what do you guys recommend?

Cheers

Evo

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$77.00 sounds a good price for a test like that, hope you are onto it now.

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Originally Posted by macca

$77.00 sounds a good price for a test like that, hope you are onto it now.

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Yeah, saves thousands in repairing things that might be fine.
Going to get engine mounts done as they need it anyway, and do the free wheeling hubs, then see how things go.

Evo

I was trying to find a thread on replacement hubs. I think the advise was to get Nissan Hubs, but don't me quote on that.

My advice is don't so engine mounts and hubs at the same time. Take a spin after doing one, then do the other. This way, if the problem is fixed, you know the solution.

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Originally Posted by mudnut

I was trying to find a thread on replacement hubs. I think the advise was to get Nissan Hubs, but don't me quote on that.

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I think that's what these ones are.
Had a look at the AVM hubs, but they looked a bit too complicated and too many parts.

Attachment 40572

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Originally Posted by Parksy

My advice is don't so engine mounts and hubs at the same time. Take a spin after doing one, then do the other. This way, if the problem is fixed, you know the solution.

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I probably didn't mention it clearly, my bad, but mounts are tomorrow, hubs over weekend.
I'm not too fussed about the hubs, but fingers crossed for tomorrow.

Cheers

Evo

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Originally Posted by Evo

I think that's what these ones are.
Had a look at the AVM hubs, but they looked a bit too complicated and too many parts.

Attachment 40572



I probably didn't mention it clearly, my bad, but mounts are tomorrow, hubs over weekend.
I'm not too fussed about the hubs, but fingers crossed for tomorrow.

Cheers

Evo

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are you getting the engine mounts done for you? Also are you doing the transmission mounts too?

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Originally Posted by Clunk

are you getting the engine mounts done for you? Also are you doing the transmission mounts too?

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Yeah, getting the engine mounts done for me.
Only engine mounts. Trans mounts checked out ok, but can only afford to do the engine ones at the moment.
If I can scrape enough together, I'll more than likely get new trans mounts when the clutch gets done.

Evo

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Originally Posted by Evo

Yeah, getting the engine mounts done for me.
Only engine mounts. Trans mounts checked out ok, but can only afford to do the engine ones at the moment.
If I can scrape enough together, I'll more than likely get new trans mounts when the clutch gets done.

Evo

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good stuff, I only ask because I found the engine mounts a prick of a job to do.......... so much so, I still havent done the drivers side yet lol

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Originally Posted by Clunk

good stuff, I only ask because I found the engine mounts a prick of a job to do.......... so much so, I still havent done the drivers side yet lol

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Fair call.
Definitely going to save me more grief then. lol

Evo

Well done on persevering with the problem evo, let's hope the engine mounts sort the problem.

I would highly recommend using genuine mounts over aftermarket. They just seem to be built better and last longer.

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Originally Posted by Stropp

Well done on persevering with the problem evo, let's hope the engine mounts sort the problem.

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I started with fingers, but I don't think I have anything I can cross now...

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Originally Posted by nissannewby

I would highly recommend using genuine mounts over aftermarket. They just seem to be built better and last longer.

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They tell me they will be using them, so see how it all goes.

Evo

Ok...

So went in and waited while the mounts were done.
All good, they showed me the old mounts... Was definitely time to replace them...
Definitely idled smoother.
Then for the drive home.
Got it up to speed...
STILL HAVE THE ISSUE!!!
So dark and blood boiling.
Came home, ripped the auto hubs off, checked, test fitted, greased, assembled, tested again.
Went for a drive...
STILL F#%&ING THERE!!!
Went back to the where I got the mounts done, and they got their ex-Nissan mechanic to take it for a drive.
Comes back...
"I think it's your diff..."
...
...
...

Evo

Sounds like they needed doing anyway, and it is better to have good engine mounts than have broken ones......now onto the next challenge

I'm presuming they're talking front diff?

Apparently rear diff...

Evo

May have found something.
Are the centres from utes the same?

Cheers,

Evo

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Originally Posted by Evo

May have found something.
Are the centres from utes the same?

Cheers,

Evo

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Yes.

I have tried to suggest this earlier but you didn't seem to acknowledge it. Remove the rear shaft and take it for a drive as this will eliminate nearly half the vehicle. Are you 100% sure your tail shaft isn't touching when driving? Get a paint pen or some spray paint and paint the earlier mark and go for a drive if no marks in paint when you get back the that's 100% ruled out.

There are also some seals on the inner side of your front wheel this area could be dry or full of crud and possibly causing an issue. Wouldn't hurt to remove and inspect at least.

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Originally Posted by nissannewby

Yes.

I have tried to suggest this earlier but you didn't seem to acknowledge it. Remove the rear shaft and take it for a drive as this will eliminate nearly half the vehicle. Are you 100% sure your tail shaft isn't touching when driving? Get a paint pen or some spray paint and paint the earlier mark and go for a drive if no marks in paint when you get back the that's 100% ruled out.

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I did acknowledge and reply when you suggested to remove the shaft.
The unis, slip joint and balance was checked when it was taken out.
I haven't had the patience to check the shaft again, see what happens tomorrow.
Don't have any spray paint, or paint pens, was thinking of using some packing tape and wrap the section of shaft right over the crossmember.

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Originally Posted by nissannewby

There are also some seals on the inner side of your front wheel this area could be dry or full of crud and possibly causing an issue. Wouldn't hurt to remove and inspect at least.

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I had a look as best I could when I did the hub conversion. Looks fine to me (not that I'm an expert), but I had hardly driven it before the problem started, so definitely no crud, and they don't appear dry.
Car was up on a hoist and noise is still present in 2H, so to me this would eliminate the front end drive line anyway.

Missed out on the diff too. Thought about it for too long...

Am thinking of investing the $350 I was going to spend on a used diff to have the diff stripped and inspected. If there is no issue, this price includes reassembly.
Sound like a reasonable price?

Have already spent about $650 to date on this issue...

Cheers

Evo

Almost forgot...
When replacing the auto hubs with manual hubs, how much end play should there be, and is there supposed to be any horizontal/vertical play at all or all solid?

Cheers

Evo

By driving the car without the rear tail shaft you eliminate the rear diff without spending the $350 just put the nuts back on the hand break drum, good time to check the pads as well

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Originally Posted by Evo

Almost forgot...
When replacing the auto hubs with manual hubs, how much end play should there be, and is there supposed to be any horizontal/vertical play at all or all solid?

Cheers

Evo

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If your talking about the shaft that is behind your locking hubs, these do have movement a few mm.

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Originally Posted by liftlid

By driving the car without the rear tail shaft you eliminate the rear diff without spending the $350 just put the nuts back on the hand break drum, good time to check the pads as well

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G'day mate,

As previously advised eliminate the front and rear diffs first as liftlid, nissannewby and I have suggested before spending your $350.00.

I wish i was at your location or you at my location, as i would have found out what the problem is, unfortunately it is difficult trying to diagnosis a problem at a distance with out seeing the Patrol.

PS, good luck!

Kind regards,

RLI

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Originally Posted by Evo

The unis, slip joint and balance was checked when it was taken out.
I was thinking of using some packing tape and wrap the section of shaft right over the crossmember.



I had a look as best I could when I did the hub conversion. Looks fine to me (not that I'm an expert)

Cheers

Evo

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Yes I know the tail shaft by itself is all ok, I'm just concerned it may be touching while your driving. Having it a workshop with the wheels of the ground will be different to driving it on the bitumen.
Packing/ masking tape will work that's a good idea.

The seals I mention are in behind the wheel bearings, to inspect requires the removal of the hub the wheel bearings are mounted in and also the disc is mounted on.

A while back the father in law had a weird noise in the rear of his maverick , occasionally a rubbing noise would start up at speed and stay relevant to the vehicle speed until the car stopped. then when he started moving again the noise would be gone. A few days later it would happen again. I think changing the rear wheel bearings fixed it though they seamed tight at the time.
I will check with him tonight and get back to you.

liftlid, nissannewby, RLI

Unfortunately removing the front or rear shafts is not something I can do. Just getting under the Troll to have a look had me in bed most of the next day.

This is why I was relying on the advice from these workshops.

Evo

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Originally Posted by Evo

liftlid, nissannewby, RLI

Unfortunately removing the front or rear shafts is not something I can do. Just getting under the Troll to have a look had me in bed most of the next day.

This is why I was relying on the advice from these workshops.

Evo

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Bugger, Then i'd recommend going to a workshop and asking them to remove the front shaft and You go for a Drive with the guy. if all is the same, return, remove the rear and go with him for the test drive. might cost you $80 at the most as it would be done and dusted in 30minutes and no parts uses. I am really surprised that they have not already done this to be honest??

If your tail shaft is rubbing it will be a very definite and fairly loud sound and there will be immediate damage to the shaft where the rubbing s happening. This could be as simple as flipping the front shaft if it is the trouble. it should be clearly visible when on the hoist though.

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

Bugger, Then i'd recommend going to a workshop and asking them to remove the front shaft and You go for a Drive with the guy. if all is the same, return, remove the rear and go with him for the test drive. might cost you $80 at the most as it would be done and dusted in 30minutes and no parts uses. I am really surprised that they have not already done this to be honest??

If your tail shaft is rubbing it will be a very definite and fairly loud sound and there will be immediate damage to the shaft where the rubbing s happening. This could be as simple as flipping the front shaft if it is the trouble. it should be clearly visible when on the hoist though.

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Apparent all the places I rang are booked up until either late next week, or early the following week.
Have to leave it parked on the lawn until then...

Rear shaft isn't rubbing, and front isn't turning in 2H (did the jump out and walk test again) plus have the f/w manual hubs on now) so can't be the auto hubs playing up.

Just at the point of giving up...

Evo

Evo,

Is the noise getting worse as you drive it or is it staying the same?

If it is getting worse, the more you drive it, the closer you are to solving the problem.:devilred:

If it is staying the same, and there isn't that much noise, it will probably be Ok to drive around gently till you get it fixed.

Mic

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Originally Posted by happygtu

Evo,

Is the noise getting worse as you drive it or is it staying the same?

If it is getting worse, the more you drive it, the closer you are to solving the problem.:devilred:

If it is staying the same, and there isn't that much noise, it will probably be Ok to drive around gently till you get it fixed.

Mic

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It has gotten a bit worse, but I have this fear that if this keeps getting worse, it will affect the next link in the chain, and so on...
It's just worse the more I go over 60kph. Time to get the book out on "How to drive like Grandma".

Evo

Not sure if it's good or bad news, but the issue has been somewhat narrowed down.

It's on the driveline behind the clutch.

More to follow hopefully in the next day or 2.

Evo

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Evo

Not sure if it's good or bad news, but the issue has been somewhat narrowed down.

It's on the driveline behind the clutch.

More to follow hopefully in the next day or 2.

Evo

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So may very well be something to do with the rear diff then........... i guess fluids had been done fairly recently?

Any chance of recording the sound and putting on y-tube or similar?

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Originally Posted by Clunk

So may very well be something to do with the rear diff then........... i guess fluids had been done fairly recently?

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Fluids were checked, all nice and free from particles.
Shaft is coming out tomorrow and being checked properly just to be sure.
While shaft is out, going to get rear jacked up and see if there any play on axles, pinion, gearbox output, etc...

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Originally Posted by liftlid

Any chance of recording the sound and putting on y-tube or similar?

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I would say very good chance, but I'm not sure how to do that sort of thing... :1087:

Cheers,

Evo

Any news on the rig Evo?

Well lucky enough, a very good mate (that I worked with many moons ago) who has been away for a LONG time is back home in Perth now, about 15 mins drive from me. That's who said to bring it round for a look.

He drove, straight away after hearing it, eliminated diff, bearings and clutch.
Took a long time to remove the tailshaft (extremely tight, even rattle gun couldn't budge them) but he somehow managed.
Both uni joints are completely shagged.

BUT

He is going to replace them, and do the shaft flip to allow more clearance over the crossmember, then test drive it.

If the noise is there, he said it might be because of 1 other thing I didn't notice/realise....

The lower trailing arms are longer than standard, and other than being dirty, my mate said they look new...

Went back over my paperwork from when I went back to the suspension place for panhards and steering damper, and they also have put down longer lower trailing arms to clear long range sub tank drain plug and correct pinion angle....

FARK SAKES!!!

He has measured and compared to another GU, and these are (according to net check) 11mm longer, heavier duty, but also are apparently supposed to help with correcting pinion angle after lift...
All a bit confusing.....

Should know more tomorrow as he could only get 1 uni joint today, so I left the Troll with him until tomorrow arvo...

Should know more then...

Suspense is killing me!

Cheers

Evo

Looking promising mate

Maaate I hope you and your mate are on to it

How much lift does it have? To need longer lower arms? Lower arms are on outside of the frame and would clear tank. You usually only need to replace the upper arm on the tank side with a bent one on a tall lift.
Good to see you found a problem though