What to keep my eye on? Preventative Maintenance

Great stuff! Thanks for this.

great info in this post thank you for your time

Cam

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Originally Posted by dads tractor

Check the bronze filter in the fuel pump after every couple of fuel filter changes as it blocks easily. Symptom a gradual loss of power just after a filter change.Remedy on the rear of the pump is a yoke with incoming and excess return fuel lines with a 17mm bolt .Undo bolt through the union and catch the washer pull all the way out and in the hole behind the bolt is the filter now this is where you have to be sneaky go and raid mums sewing basket and pinch the crochet hook and pull out the filter and clean by blowing with compressed air.reverse procedure then pump the lift pump till bled and away you go.Never admit ever to the hook and keep well stashed because its now a lint filter remova.
I bled my brakes with new fluid every 12 mths or after going through deep water a job that can be done with mates over a beer cheaper than brakes parts.

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A word from a female mechanic, guys go down to an Op Shop and find the knitting needles and crochet hooks and make a collection of different sizes for your tool box, then find a real fine stainless steel one and grind the hook of it (if you haven't already broken mums one) as it makes for the best radiator pick and comes in handy for heaps of odd jobs...

Cheers, Louise

:clapping::clapping:Hey Ynot, this would have to be one of the best threads I have every seen on any Forum. Soooo much information, and written in a way that most people can understand. Can't tell how greatfull I am:clapping:
Great work buddy, you are a true gentleman, THANK YOU:cheers:

Cheers, Rick

Hey Y'all,
What Km's is the recommended interval for changing the timing belt on the RD28t, Its not in the manual and I can't seem to find it anywhere else. I know most smaller cars say 80,000Kms...

I changed it only 5000Kms ago, but I have started a maintenance record and reminder for the big girl so I don't miss anything, and just want to note down when I need do to it next.

Cheers,
Shaun...

Hey Tony,
You might have directed this towards patrols, but I think it's fantastic information regardless of the vehicle, or age of vehicle.
Have you started writing your own maintenance book yet?
Or even better, you could always run some workshops on patrol maintenance! :D
Your dedication is inspiring.
andyp

Fantastic! A print out is going in the glove box.

Great post.

Just went to do the oil change and the Repco lady (here's the first problem) gave me two Z416 filters and said that is right for my 1990 GQ Patrol. Got home and managed to see the old filters one of which say C-1121. Now the Ryco equivalent of this filter is a Z9 (according to Ryco website) which appear to be used for large trucks or perkins diesel engines. Any thoughts I'm fairly sure I should have got two Z115 Filters (can't be entirely sure as I can't see the writing on the second filter) but does anyone know what the Z9's are like (Better / worse)

Hi AntZNZ,

I see you have two filters - so you may have a diesel. If so, I can't help.

However if it is a TB42 petrol, I use a Z9 all the time. I look for those that are marketed as including a non return valve.

Legend of a post!! Thanks Tony for all your time and effort :)

this has been a load of help . :) definately gonna print a copy and shove it in the glove box.

What a great read - very helpful for those of us who dont have am owners manual or workshop manual (yet). I love tinkering on my truck and this is a great reference for general info on what to look for.

Top effort and its much appreciated by many of us.

A great thread, i'll be sure to use it, since the normal car mechanics on this island are not known for their excellent quality in their work...

Tony, as a newbie, thank you for your helpful information.
I used my car usually for travelling to the jungle to bring food, medicine for the people.
One trip around 2000 km.
My Patrol TD 42 ,GU Y61 2002, 60 K in the clock, only changes tyre with maxxis bighorn 285x75x16 and coil spacer 30 mm from AMU.
My car before is Discovery, the engine broken after several times to the jungle in 16 years.
I still need more information for button function in dash like stab, AT, diff lock etc.


Best regards,

Hindar

Very good Info!

Thanks Tony!

Tony, thanks so much for posting this as it has just answered so many of my questions in one hit! Very informative and helpful, thanks again.

awesome thread

I know it has been said a heap of times already but absolutely great work Tony. Thanks for your efforts in posting this - really damn useful.

I refer back to this all the time too!!!

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Originally Posted by YNOT

There is a lot of information to put in here so this post/thread will keep growing over time, I'll add photos as I can.

This is by no means a complete or definitive guide, my aim is to give people some basic things to look for as well as some general information about Nissan Patrols. This information primarily applies to GQ/GU (Y60/Y61) Patrols as they are the most common models and the only models I have direct experience with. If you have any questions however silly they may seem, please feel free to ask. PM me you phone number if you want to talk to me directly, I don't mind helping people.

Don't be put off by the amount of text, I'm trying to help people understand their cars, not just check this check that.


ENGINE

OIL LEAKS; Patrol engines in general are not prone to leaking lots of oil, but it does still happen. Finding the exact source of an oil leak is not always easy. If you do a lot of mud driving then don't be surprised if your front crank seal starts leaking. This is one of the easier leaks to diagnose, oil will leak down the front of the sump and in most cases be thrown out from the crank pulley.
Oil leaking around the rear of the sump is usually coming from the rear main (rear crank seal), check carefully in both cases to make sure it's not coming from higher up.
Oil pressure sender units have been known to fail and leak oil.
If an oil leak or combination of leaks is bad enough the whole engine could end up covered in oil making it nearly impossible to find the source of the leaks. The best thing to do in those cases is to degrease the whole engine, then go for a drive and recheck for leaks.

HEAD GASKETS; The head gasket is the gasket fitted between the cylinder head and the engine block. Head gasket failure can show in a number of ways. External oil or coolant leaks will show below the cylinder head, coolant leaks will generally show as a white or pale green stain down the side of the engine block. Internal leaks are more difficult to diagnose, but as this thread is concentrating on preventative maintenance I won't go into the diagnosis here.
The one suggestion I will make is to always look at the underside of your oil filler cap every time you take the cap off. If you see a milky brown paste under the cap, it's usually a good indication that coolant is leaking into the lubrication system, usually from a blown head gasket. Depending on the severity of the leak you may also find the same milky paste under the radiator cap and/or on the dip stick.

WELCH/FREEZE PLUGS; Welch plugs are the pressed steel plugs pressed into the side and sometimes rear of the engine block. Because they are made of pressed steel they are susceptible to corrosion if correct coolant levels are not maintained. Check each of the welch plugs carefully for signs of rust or coolant stains.

OIL COOLER; TD42 diesel engines are fitted with an engine oil cooler bolted to the engine block on the intake side. The oil cooler forms part of the engine cooling system and is therefore also subject to corrosion if correct coolant levels are not maintained. Leaks may be external as a coolant stain down the intake side of the block, or internal and mix engine oil with coolant. Oil cooler failure will present similar symptoms to a head gasket. Look for coolant stain down the intake side of the engine block, milky brown paste under the oil filler cap and/or radiator cap, and on the dip stick.
TB series petrol engines have a steel plate on the side of the engine block in the same position as the TD42's have the oil cooler. Look for rusting of the steel plate or coolant stains around it.

GENERAL INFORMATION;

TD42 oil filter changes;
GQ TD42 NA 2/88 to '97 uses Ryco Z115 (x2)
GU TD42NA 5/98 to '03 uses Ryco Z503 (x2)
GU TD42T 5/99 to '05 uses Ryco Z416 (x1) and Ryco Z503 (x1)

Please note, I use Ryco part numbers as an example only, use what ever brand oil filter you are comfortable with.


COOLING SYSTEM

RADIATOR; Check for blockages in the external fins. Remove the top radiator mounts and carefully push the radiator back. Look down between the radiator and A/C condensor as all sorts of rubbish can collect between the two and restrict air flow. It can be very hard to see with the radiator in the vehicle but also try to look for mud caked up in the fins. My brother cooked the engine in his Navara after going through a mud hole. The wet mud dries quickly when it hit the hot radiator and seriously reduces the cooling capacity of the radiator. Guess who got to replace that engine?
Another thing that's difficult to check for but worth doing, is checking the condition of the fins themselves. Lightly rub your fingers over the surface of the fins, if the fins start to disintegrate and fall out then it's time for a new radiator.

RADIATOR CAP; Without a proper pressure tester it's not possible to check the cap properly, but you can check the main rubber seal. Look for soft compliant rubber with no cracking or swelling. Given the low cost of radiator caps, if you're in any doubt about it's condition just replace it.

HOSES; Check hoses for swelling where they slip over the water pump, thermostat etc. Swelling at these points indicates corrosion on the aluminum housings. If the hose is swollen, replace it. I recommend replacing the corroded item as well, while you may get away with cleaning the corrosion off and fitting a new hose for a while, the corrosion almost always returns.
Squeeze the hoses, if they feel solid and make a cracking sound as you squeeze them then there is a calcified build up inside them and they need to be replaced.
Also, a hose may look and feel OK, but that does not always mean they are OK-I've been caught. The hose seemed fine when I serviced the car, but a few days later split open down the length of the hose. On closer inspection when you pushed your fingers into the hose from the outside, you could see cracks opening up inside the hose. If your in any doubt, or are planning a big trip and your hoses are more than 12 months old, replace them (all of them) and keep the old hoses for spares. Check the tension of the hose clamps (obviously this does not apply to the spring type hose clamps) a couple of times a year. When you replace hoses it is very important to recheck clamp tension a few days after you fitted the hoses, as the hoses will settle a bit after they've been heated and cooled a few times. [photo to be added later]

BELTS; Use a torch and have a very close look at your belts. Look for cracks appearing on the "V" side of the belt, pieces missing or frayed pieces. On a multi V belt the cracks may be very small. If your in any doubt or are planning a long trip, replace the belts, all of them. You might think that it does not matter if the A/C belt breaks, you can live without A/C for a while, but often when a belt breaks it will take out or damage the other more important belts. Broken belts can also lodge between the back of the crank pulley and the front of the engine, damaging the front crank seal. While the belts are off, give each idler pulley a spin listening for anything other than smooth quiet movement. Check belt tension about every month, just a quick push with your finger on the long span between pulleys. On a span of about 30cm you should have about 1cm movement. For engines with automatic tensioners check the tensioner for signs of wear.[photo to be added later]

WATER PUMP; Check the water pump shaft for vertical movement, for vehicles with an engine driven fan simply grab both sides of the fan and try to lift it up a few times, there should be no movement.
Use a torch and have a look at the water pump from underneath, look for a coolant stain or drips of coolant on the water pump housing. If you find shaft movement or leaks, replace the pump.

FAN; For vehicles with engine driven fans, look for cracking in the plastic around the centre of the fan, this is very common on Patrols. If it's cracked, replace it.

FAN HUB; For vehicles with engine driven fans, look for oil leaks from the fan hub. With the engine cold and stationary try to spin the fan by hand, it should stop within about a 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn. Start the engine, when you first start it and bring the revs up to about 1500rpm you should hear the fan roar for a while then go quiet. Keep the engine running and the revs at that point or there abouts. As the engine reaches full operating temperature you should hear the fan cycling, it will start to roar for 30 seconds to a minute then go quiet again. The on time of the fan will be extended on a hot day after a drive.

COOLANT; Without specialised tools the only way to judge coolant condition is by appearence. Rusty brown is bad, green,red, or blue is usually OK. This is only a guide, coolant should be replaced at or before manufactures recommendations and to specified concentration. Do not mix different types of coolant, if you are not sure what was in there previously, drain it, fill it with water (or coolant flush solution) run it until the engine is hot, and drain it again to flush out the old coolant. Some Nissan motors are fitted with an engine block coolant drain plug, where fitted they are usually at the back of the engine on the exhaust side [photo to be added later].

BLEEDING COOLING SYSTEMS; If you drain any coolant from your engine it is important to bleed all of the air out afterwards. Any air pockets that remain in the engine (which will be in the cylinder head) can potentially cause cracking of the cylinder head.
Bleed it by removing the radiator cap and letting the engine idle until the thermostat opens (when the coolant starts moving and the air the fan is pulling through the radiator suddenly gets warmer). Recheck coolant level after a few days.
Fuel injected 4.2 petrol (TB42E) have coolant bleed screws on top of the inlet manifold, be VERY careful as they have a habit of seizing into the aluminum and breaking off when you try to remove them. Because of this I now only bleed them as described above.

GENERAL INFORMATION;

STRAY CURRENT.


Tony

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Tony;
I would suggest, inserting in the coolant part, USE ONLY NISSAN RECOMMENDED COOLANT, available in 4.5 liter containers, fill radiator with ALL the 4.5 then top up with distiled water.
Change out this coolant every two years, NO MATTER WHAT.
I learnt the lesson the hard, and expensive way by using Castrol inhibitor, which was not compatable with the alloys used in these engines, thus corroded the head gasket and the story goes on from there.

Nissan recommended or a coolant equal to or a higher grade equivalent.

Tony the best thread I have ever read.
The age old coolant debate, now what are the recommended or equiv brands that I should use as thats what I am doing this weekend

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Originally Posted by 4.2GU4

Tony the best thread I have ever read.
The age old coolant debate, now what are the recommended or equiv brands that I should use as thats what I am doing this weekend

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I'm over in PNG, so I cant get any info on my hands, but Nissan will have a grade that it requires, normally in the form on the make-up (bi-etholene glycol or tri-etholene glycol), and some other minor additives, this will be in the form of a 'lubrication and fluid specifications guideline', again sorry I cant get you that info, it'd be in a shop manual, i'm sure the other guys on here will be able to help you more, or maybe try google. Then when you get the spec's, go through the coolants in the shop and match or better their spec's. Same goes for oils and other fluids.

Shaun...

Coolant is coolant. Just don't go for the el cheapo premixed stuff. Concentrate is the key.

I used to work in a taxi base and all we ever used on our own taxis was tap water, no coolant. This was under the owner's instruction and strangely enough the cars held up fine.

A leaking head gasket could be due to a number of reasons, the incorrect type of coolant being used is one of the less likely.

Water/coolant changes ph over time. Distiller water is neutral, but if left in the radiator for too long will eventually go acidic and corrode the internals of the cooling system.
I think the big thing to look out for when choosing coolants is to make sure that it states it can be used with alloy/copper/brass/what ever system.
Was having a look at the elcheapo coolants in Kmart and none of them mentioned anything about what they could be used with. Best avoided IMHO.

Thanks for the helpful info. Learnt a lot. Cheers mate !!!

Thanks for the info Tony the best thread I have ever read.

Thanks for a very handy post.

holy crap, you cant pay for this kind of knowledge, this is by far the greatest forum I've ever joined, so much info, and so many willing to share and spend so much of their own time contributing to give us less knowledgeable a fighting chance to save a bit of money, and keep our trucks in a good and reliable state. thanks to YNOT and everyone else thats contributed to not just this thread but countless other.

Thanks for an awesome post, has helped me so much, Cheers

Thanks for the post Tony, I just got a GQ yesterday and want to give it a thorough service. This information is invaluable. Cheers

Great post Tony, valuable information that money cant buy.

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Originally Posted by damaverick

Coolant is coolant. Just don't go for the el cheapo premixed stuff. Concentrate is the key.

I used to work in a taxi base and all we ever used on our own taxis was tap water, no coolant. This was under the owner's instruction and strangely enough the cars held up fine.

A leaking head gasket could be due to a number of reasons, the incorrect type of coolant being used is one of the less likely.

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Some contain silica and can do damage....

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Originally Posted by dads tractor

I bled my brakes with new fluid every 12 mths or after going through deep water a job that can be done with mates over a beer cheaper than brakes parts.

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I used to think it was a load of crap when they recommended changing brake fluid on especially new cars, with service intervals of 2 years or 40K and had the impression that it was just an excuse to make a buck or two on car owners. I even heard stories that they just sucked the resouair empty and claimed to have changed fluid.
I have changed my mind and taken the foil hat off and must admit it makes a lot of sense to flush and renew the brake fluid on intervals especially on 4WD and not only when you have done a lot of creek crossings. I had to give up on getting my brakes working on my GU and send it to a professional.
Before that I renovated the calibers and just couldn’t get it to bleed and brake probably, problem shifted around between front and back axle and drove me crazy. As I renovated the calibers I was surprised with the amount of dirt that migrated behind the brake pistons and must have come from all the dirt road driving and worn calibers. The brake specialist flushed the system several times and kept getting blockages, and the master cylinder had to be changed as well, probably as a result of dirty and moisture polluted brake fluid.
/Erik

http://www.autolabusa.com/car-care-t...Flush_AE7.html

This was an awesome thread as it started and [photo to be added later] sounded great, Tony can you get back with your wisdom? :D

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Originally Posted by YNOT

There is a lot of information to put in here so this post/thread will keep growing over time, I'll add photos as I can.

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It'd be cheaper and easier to buy a brake fluid meter and just measure the water in brake fluid ratio, save changing the fluid and wasting money when you don't need to.

I f@&kin hate bleeding brakes, and I get free brake fluid, I still wouldn't do it annually. Every 2 years I do. Unless you don't have many hobbies and plenty of time, go ahead :D

Some mechanics do just vac the main reservoir and replace the fluid, but some also just wipe your filter clean and tell you they serviced it, in both instances it shouldn't happen.

Depends on your general climate/humidity and how you use the brakes. I use a one man bleeder, and it works well. You can feel the difference in the pedal. A bottle of fluid is less than $20.

very useful info.thanks mate! (Y) :)

This is the most helpfull thread i have come across. Comforting even.