Oh nearly forgot ordered a Radius Fabrication snorkel and pod filter today.
but with ram head, if Pat ever goes paddling will simply turn it around first.
simple bolt on mods, may as well make good on the tuning potential.
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Oh nearly forgot ordered a Radius Fabrication snorkel and pod filter today.
but with ram head, if Pat ever goes paddling will simply turn it around first.
simple bolt on mods, may as well make good on the tuning potential.
It's turned up today.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
To late, oh well these things happen
Should be fairly straight forward to fit, find somewhere to mt cylinder.
It looks like a fire extinguisher cyl to me.
They include alot if hardware for different mt options.
Think I'll ditch the rubber hose for stainless soon.
started to install this was the best/easiest place to install cyl.
m2c it looks crap there, but is secure and easily removed for whatever reason.
not plumbed yet,will in the morning
Attachment 62579
Plumbed up .Attachment 62585
The oil pressure light goes out Before the engine starts now.
If it was for looks then it's sure lacking, but function is what counts.
Arrrhh.
look at what I have to fix now!.
more bl##dy work.
Attachment 62693Attachment 62694
bring it on!!!
Snorkel 4" & pod from Radius Fab, all fitted up on sunday and off monday for a new inj pump and tune.
Sorry simply didn't have time for a pic's,will take & post later
Now in neutral engine rev's/responds almost comparable to a petrol mtr.
The lighter flywheel and a lot of other new bits would of also help and porting the exh manifold etc.
But "note", a vast improvement with new intake, since the previous work was carried out.
Ourimbah and Mooney hills are good long climbs, easily sat on 110, & accelerating in top gear.
Driven the car plenty in city traffic, much better now, can't wait for the final result.
Hit a small snag, tacho sensor leaking oil, needs fixing asap, oil over the belts etc making a mess.
waiting waiting waiting.
Firstly,
Those that have made direct input and the people that have made relevant threads,
Thanks again, for all the great advice.
Tune's done, ready to pick up.
150kw atbw,don't know any more yet.
get the skinny tomorrow.
Time to take some pics and post up end result etc.
Have to say again,
very impressed with how well it drove with 99% of new parts fitted.
Now with new dc3 pump and tune! can't wait to drive it home.
some big long hills on the way back,to get a feel for the gains made.
The drive home from sydney was brilliant, city traffic no probs, even for a 4x4 with manual stick.
In fact, felt a bit like the boy racer leaving em all behind at the lights!.
not really trying to, may be a little but more just trying it out.
The temp on the way hi 30 to 40 ish.
egts never went over 350 but I wasn't holding revs for long or laboring so to be expected but still some good hills on the way non the less.
the egt's mostly sat on about 230-275 and engine temp was very good.
I didn't rush around taking pics when I got back home , it was 47.8 deg c ,& 42 in the shade, and tired 4hrs sleep.
Car very drivable comes on boost way earlier.
so the assumption of larger turbo is slower to boost than a std unit isn't entirely true.
If ya went to large well that would be the case, but the GTX2863R solves that issue
pulls extremely well in 5th going up big dipper coming onto M1, if not careful gotta watch I don't get a ticket!
afr 17 and boost set at 23psi on dyno real world boost reaching 28psi.
couldn't see any exhaust in the mirrors.
The new Diesel Central pump DC3 & GTXR turbo work extremely well together.
Lag virtually gone compared to before, and the fuel and boost curve feels very smooth and positive under foot.
very happy chappy, now to hook the van on but very confident it will impress.
And if any one tells you don't lighten your flywheel, tell em to go jump, worth every penny.
well I recon in hindsight worth it with the correct turbo etc.
Pat wasn't intercooled before and it lost a great deal of engine breaking with the large I/C fitted, so the lighter flywheel has given a little of that back , but not all.
Shawn @ Diesel Central Qld, was a lot of help and answered all my questions without issue.
& Jason @ Total care, Seven Hills was also very helpful & happy to share some know how to.
Service from both business was prompt courteous and delivered the goods they said they could.
Thanks again gents
Attachment 62807 [ATTACH=CONFIG]62808[/ATTACH
Attachment 62809Attachment 62810
Attachment 62811
Attachment 62813
Very nice rob. Good work.
The pic of exh manifold isn't a good one.
You may notice the lines etched, that was a guide for me to port em to the same size
the cast ports weren't even and the center divider was about, 5mm thick,
I trimmed, tapered that down evenly form both sides to about 2.5mm thick.
Also all the internal humps that are around the studs were trimmed down to reduce back pressure etc.
Pat wasn't ever fitted with egr system, but on the cast manifold the large knob of cast was still there, un-machined ready for the egr system.
I cut this off with my angle grinder and ground it back took about 1/2 hr.
It was about 40 x 40 x 60 mm, a good heat sink, directly under the collector area
Theroy was to reduce any stored heat in the manifold that could raise temps.
less heat stored & more straight out the exhaust instead.
One of those 1% things hopefully.
Ok, did a 200 k mostly free way test run towing the 23 ft caravan over the weekend.
verdict. *******AWESOME*******.
egr temps are now lower cruising, comparable to not towing.
actually bit lower than before all the work carried out.
Hills that used to slow me up in 4th pushing it, even then thinking of having to reaching for 3rd near the top,now pat "cruises" over in 4th without the need to push it.
fuel consumption improved, I wasn't trying to save , I was testing how well we tow just keeping revs on song.
also how well under full noise up hill from standing start etc.
egr temps came up pushing hard up hill, within acceptable limits, under 500 deg C, obviously I managed the peddle once I saw climbing to 500, but hill ran out first.
My Missus commented a few times how well Pat goes now.
Towing is much more relaxing now, to a point of just about no more driver input than not having a trailer,
almost giving you a false sense of security.
I had to remind my self to slow down for the various terrain etc given the load.
Any body who tows knows it's alot more work/stress towing, and the bigger the load more driver effort to stay on the ball.
Off the mark is a vast improvement getting the load moving.
The engine pulls so much better off the mark, it can push you back in your seat if ya want, with the load as mentioned.
Going through the gears trying to get up to speed was a bit embarrassing (for us larger loads), Not any more!.
I'd have to say anyone that's thinking of doing these up-grades to improve towing, would also be impressed.
reco injectors.
reco dc3 pump.
DTS GTX2863R.
large intercooler.
4" snorkel and pod filter.
ported exh manifold.
Tune on dyno.
there were alot more bits n pces,seals etc but these are the main bits.
Note the performance gains would not of been as good for each part without the other.
Fitted VDO electronic temp gauge.
& a new 115amp alternator, ebay job.
ordered a 150amp intervolt dual battery controller.
Installed a new anderson with 8G cable to the soon to be installed deep cycle,
also ran a lead running back from the anderson into the rear to replace the old power supply for the fridge.
I came across a 120amp controller that looks very similar to Intervolts smaller 100 amp model.
Good stuff, that will suit the new alternator!
so similar thought it had to be made by them, looked identical going by the front controls & art work etc.
nearly purchased it except it never mentioned if it was dual sensing, made inquires, was informed it was a copy cat unit.
I'd mention the retailer but don't want to walk on wobbly ground, lets just say we jnow them, you work it out.
Dual sensing can detect if your charging the aux battery with an external charger, so if the main is also in need of a charge, it can send some charge there also.
All the in/out parameters of the intervolt are user adjustable which makes it very flexible.
Funny part the 100,120 & 150 amp controllers if ya look for 5 min on the net could be purchased for $199 each.
yeah sure its a pricey way of doing it, but automotive contact type relays switching higher power can & do fail with some very expensive consequences,engine bay fires are one, seen it happen.
First search I did on the well known red$$K controller came back, How I fixed my red$$k, pulling it apart to clean the contacts as they were burnt and were pulsing the voltage, No thanks, This one is solid state, No moving parts.
Dont think that attachment is working Robo, needs some pics too lol
Funny you mention that!.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I noticed the same at this end and tried to load 2 others, now all 3 seem to be working.
I will take some install pics asap
Temp gauge install.
Adapter for sender 12mm x 1.5mm pitch thread (male) , x 1/4 npt (female).
Attachment 63254 Attachment 63255
Attachment 63258
The gaskets needed if ya want to remove the lower housing, these are my spare ones.
Attachment 63256
Using Nulon coolant, 50/50 with distilled water.
For water temp went with this type of gauge instead of needle, if a problem arises hoping a jump into 3 digits should grab my attention better than a smaller needle, yeah it looks miss matched but they all same brand & quality.
exhaust temps I will monitor more closely going up hill etc, never thought of that back when I purchase them.
Attachment 63257.
Edit: Just noticed yours is also 1/8th NPT and not 1/4 like you mentioned in the other thread.
Edit: 2 - You wrote down 1/4npt but the photo shows 1/8 npt ? lol
I also went with the numerical display of water temp as that lets me monitor any change closer than a needle. My EGT and boost is going and gauge displaying, fitting the water temp as we speak.
This has been lifted from another Patrol forum.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2015/12/92.jpgQuote:
Here's some pictures of my temperature sender. Like you said the factory port is metric, 12mm I think, so I hot tapped it in situ. Just use grease on the tap to catch the swarf and be ready to start tapping when you remove the bung so that when your coolant runs out it will wash any swarf that didn't get caught in the grease .
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2015/12/93.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2015/12/94.jpg
Yeah your right, dahh, don't know why I was thinking 1/4, my mistake.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Had to scrounge in the garbage bin to find that card.
VDO do a needle gauge that has a much longer sweep area, 8 to 4 o'clock which is way better to read than the compressed 10 to 3 o'clock versions IMO.
I have 1, but the sender was to short to reach and their both approx same price new.
But I'm hoping a number that's physically changing in 1 deg increments will work better.
And when the going gets tough, we look at em more.
Made a start on installing dual battery, making my own cradle.
Using some scrap laying around to make it.
I did purchase a base plate & hold down kit from Jaycar.
The jaycar plate doesn't have a flat bottom and needs a spacer to level it, IMO.
1) The inner guard has a slight slope beside the rad overflow bottle, & there are a couple of threaded holes, perfect to help mount the plate.
So positioning the plate over these holes and centered in available space to clear air box etc.
worked out the plate needs a spacer to help level it, spread the load and not deform the guard etc.
using a 5mm thick piece of plastic strip was perfict for the spacer.
Using a good liberal layer of mastic to stick spacer to underside of plate inline with the guards holes, and at a slight angle to compensate for inner guard slope.
Put that aside to cure over night.
Next day holding plate in position over the holes, marked the holes from the under side.
Drilled these holes, then dropped the counter sunk bolts in the holes.
Then placing plate over slightly open vice, gave the bolts a hit and this counter sunk them into the plate.
Attachment 63338.
sorry I don't take any pics of mastic and spacer, don't feel like pulling it to pieces again.
2) Next was the inner brace.
Piece of angle 30x 30mm (off cut) never measured length it fitted as is , and some tabs weld to it 20x3mm and lining up with more existing threaded holes.
Attachment 63339
Attachment 63340.
Attachment 63342
Working out by eye where the mt levels is straight forward and height for plate level, the tabs are approx 40 and 50 mm long.
There are more than 3 holes available but that's all I used to make the support.
Tabs need a little tweak etc to conform to the guards shape and to line up the base plate mounting hole/s.
Paint and dry over night
3) Placed the base in position screw & bolted in using a nyloc nut, to be sure.
didn't bother with extra bolts in base is an odd shape and it's strong as is.
4) Top support tie down bracket, again straight forward, never really measured lengths it was done by eye.
Battery angle clamps are approx 100 mm long and I made a small mistake where I drilled the nearside tie down hole, bit to wide.
Just welded another spacer under that and re-drilled it closer to the battery.
Up at the guard end, substituted with longer bolt , washer & nut as a spacer to clear guard edge.
Once it was all tightened down solid as a rock, works for me.
yep welds look a bit ugly, gal from the angle kept transferring with the grinder & rods not fully dry.
Used epoxy flat black paint on the brackets.
Attachment 63343 Attachment 63344
Attachment 63345 Attachment 63346
Attachment 63347 Attachment 63348
Yes the bracket is built at an angle as the center of the battery and the guard bolt are off set.
Honestly all up it cost bit under 1/2 the price of buying one and the time it took, don't think I'd do it again.
And it's not fully zinc or powder coated, just some points worth mentioning.
Next the wiring, in pics it's been started, in between jobs.
On holidays yipeeeeeeee.
Some wiring after dinner.
And fixed the controller in place.
Attachment 63369 Attachment 63370.
Some more wiring & finished.
4 gauge through 100a breaker & the relay onto deep cycle battery.
8 gauge through 70a breaker down to rear anderson & then branched for power into the back for 40 lt engel.
Using 5mm nutserts to secure the rely and breakers.
Will be installing new power sockets and meter in the rear small panel after chrissy, now going to enjoy hols before any more happens.
Attachment 63408
Just purchased front swivel/wheel bearings kit, so gotta get that done asap easter hols.
Got the bug!!.
Domin8tor 12000lb from 4wdsupacentre, Qld show sale prices to good to pass over.
I'm thinking larger tyres, diff ratios, lockers, Wake up Jeff!!
Hope the missus isn't reading this.
Think I can wrap the winch as a 27 yr wedding anniversary present, will that be ok!! lol
Seems water had got into the wheel bearings, were in poor shape.
Think it can be safely said,
If the king pin bearings need replacing do the whole job while your there.
Once this 1 is complete, that'll be MK, GQ,and GU all done at home.
CV in great shape no water entry.
The steering feels great, more precise, and with less Rd feed back.
So another job well done.
Worth noting-- checking , readjusting the new wheel bearings after break in period of 500k, even though procedure has you pre torquing the bearings to seat them.
Started the winch bracket last weekend, used our Mates diy winch cradle gu alloy bar threads for inspiration.
I also trying to cut costs and use scrap from home.
Had some C section 75x40x6mm ,man its strong for this job.
Also had the some 75x75x5 angle so trimmed to 55mm on 1 edge suits great.
Main bars 600mm long.
Angle 170mm long.
I welded bars and angle together and am making a spacer/fairlead mount bracket to suit alloy bar.
Bent the 12x32mm bar on my 20t press to the desired angles.
Pics speak a thousand words.
still work in progress been crook since last weekend.
Attachment 66302Attachment 66303Attachment 66304Attachment 66305Attachment 66306
Coming together nicely there Robo
Your into off Rd correct, ya recon the 12mm bar for fairlead will stand up to pressure as is? or more bracing to bull bar requiredQuote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
I think they will flex under pressure mate. You need to probably put a spine on each one and join them with a bit of flat bar. Dont expect the ally fair lead to hold it together it should only be for guidance.
Unless I'm looking at it wrong and they bolt to the bullbar?
Thanks, I braced underneath to help against flex, wasn't sure if more would be needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
No, they aren't set up to bolt to bar, was trying to make it independent to the bar all together.
I'll relook at bracing in the AM.
Bracing Attachment 66386
Tapping thread for fairleadAttachment 66387
Welding support for hook Attachment 66388
Finished Attachment 66389
Assembly Attachment 66390
Test fitting bar Attachment 66391Attachment 66392
A little trim for bar cut out needed to snug around fairlead and onto the wiring.
A Caribbeana hook might be the go for bracket to hold hook in position.
The reason the paint work looks messy is zinc paint has been brushed on in 2 coats
Took the alloy bar off for the last time, to trim it a tad more and connect wiring to winch.
very happy with the outcome,
now time for a break away for a few days.
will then be connecting the wiring in cab next week.
Attachment 66427
Attachment 66428
Attachment 66429.
Safe ANZAC weekend peoples.
Humm, looking at the wiring on solenoid something could be wrong.
The factory fitted cables to the solenoid ,which are colour coded, are not connected to the numbered post as the manual states.
Yellow is on post number 1, & Red is on post number 3.
But manual clearly shows and written, has them the other way around.
I rang supplier and they said, its ok we test every winch.
but I' not so convinced the solenoid is tested also, every nut and bolt has not been touched ex factory ie-not a mark on em.
Any input welcome, have no experience with this type of solenoid before.
Its a Domin8r 12000lb winch package
Attachment 66584
Attachment 66585.
Well I rang em again, hoping to talk with someone else.
This time
Quote
"yes the instructions are clearly wrong it's also covered buy a 5 yr warranty, your covered , fit it as supplied and it will be ok ( don't you guys test winch on a test bench) no we even test the solenoid with the winch" end quote.
I hope this helps others having the same problem.Attachment 66588
I can't see the pic clearly on my phone but it is likely that they are F1 & F2 anyway so they will just be direction and there is no risk to anything.just the switch direction.
Yeah I had that line of thought also.
My fear was connecting in a way it should not be, and I'm multiplying a potential problem by increasing the cable size to 50mm from 35mm square.
Any way of a breaker or something in the install ?,
I have not seen anything available.
I've updated the previous pics
This is the solenoid you have there I think and is the same one I have on my GUIV.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2016/05/57.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk cause AB turned it back on!!
Yeah it looks the same going by the pic. thanks for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
I cant seem to click on the pic to enlarge it, to read the fine print.
Gota de-clutter some wiring that has accumulated around the battery first looks crappy at the moment.
Here it is again, I tried to get a better source image.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2016/05/64.jpg
Here is a screen zoom on my iPhone from the original image on the forum.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2016/05/65.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk cause AB turned it back on!!
Does this help at all?
...
Attachment 66596
MR to the rescuuuuue
Yep it helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
So much so I saved your winch build pics a while ago for ideas for Pat
My Hid boxes are stored in that hole, may locate near brake booster me thinks.
from memory I approximated "your" cable measurements also.
So thanks to you also.