They look too big to me or have they changed the size lately.
I seen them in another post heres a pic from it you can see one fitted to the cluster surround.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g5...8/DSCF0995.jpg
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They look too big to me or have they changed the size lately.
I seen them in another post heres a pic from it you can see one fitted to the cluster surround.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g5...8/DSCF0995.jpg
And ring wes and speak to them they just charge more without an account i had one about 10 years ago they couldn't find it so they put it through on one of their own for me.
Not sure what you mean by too big, I've had no dramas with them they fit well in either centre console or up in the instrument cluster.Quote:
Originally Posted by 97_gq_lwb
Look at the one on the dash surround looks abnormally larger then the others.
looks good in the center where they are all the same size though.
Engine mounts fabricated and the old ones removed and given a tidy up.
Still having trouble with the dellow part of this conversion. The adjustable clutch rod from dellow makes no sense to me it, to start with its marked as a holden conversion, the factory clutch fork does not have a hole for the rod to go through to make it adjustable. On the phone again tomorrow. One can assume the outcome will be I need to use their fork....
Looking good bro.
Take 2 week off work and get into it.
ya should keep specs, dies ,jigs, and sell a kit.
maybe Marks would be interested !.
do you require a brake upgrade for this conversion?
I asked my certifying Engineer about that very thing and he said no need to upgrade, however as its going to be a tow vehicle I probably will at some stage.Quote:
Originally Posted by DC-Auto
I wish, just started a new Job....anyway in no great hurry to have this finished - sorry guys. Apart from the bellhousing/clutch and the mounting of the cluster and HIM/ICC its all going to be pretty much plug and play.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
I agree with your engineer it should weight about the same as std, so for daily driving towing no need.Quote:
Originally Posted by twase
but you may need a neck brace, LOL.
Have a read of this thread over at the Aus Ford Forums, http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11331318 Is a similar type of build as yours... but completely different. There are a LOT of issues with most of the "plug & play" components. but as difficult as it was, he got it happening. Hopefully a few of his issues will help you in getting this up and running smoothlyQuote:
Originally Posted by twase
Ta, I will read that when I get a chance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Biscuits
Edit **** read the first page and realised I had already read this thread when I was contemplating using a BA 4 speed and a territory transfer case in the patrol, the stumbling block was the territory has the front drive shaft on the passengers side and I could not find an easy way of flipping the patrols front axle over.
the XR6T Block is in the workshop for new rings and bearing along with a head for a full service so it nice and fresh when it goes in.
I spotted these whilst looking for something else they look similar to the factory switches in the surround but not sure of the size.
They have a wide range of switches as well.
http://www.colehersee.com/home/grid/cat/10/
Thanks for that I will add it to the growing list of options.
Anyone know if its possible to remove the key release button on the ignition switch , it is in the way of the BA key transceiver I need to install.
Looking good love the look of the dash. If only they did a bellhousing for an auto. Keep up the good work.
Steve
Generally you can just drill it out its just a spring with locking mechanism easily removed.Quote:
Originally Posted by twase
cant swap the whole assembly over
With the BA part? Considered that but the angle of the barrel is wrong and probably the steering lock would not be compatible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
Check out the Narva website under rocker switches.
The Narva Rocker fog lamp switch listed under the standard duty section slotted straight into one of the lower row of holes in the centre console of my Mav. http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/standard the opening si2e listed is 34.5mm x 20mm.
I know you want momentary on or momentary off. these are also listed on the Narva site under Rocker Switches heavy duty but the opening si2e is bigger at 37mm x 21mm.
http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/heavy-duty-3
Thanks for the info, I will check them out.
Ended up finding some small Rocker switches in another JayCar. I will mount them in a blank and it should not look out of place at all.
Busy day yesterday finding fuel line fittings for the subtank installation. Got distracted and came home with a 2.2kw inverter generator for the van...
Engine mounts are on.
Engine mount fabricated to match the chassis mount.
have you thought out a way to make sure things stay in place "heavens forbid" rubber Mt breaks.
Make sure you do injectors, and actuator and get it tuned should be insane!
Sorry to disappoint you but only standard boost, the bottom end is standard and its all I need.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stropp
I don't see why the engine mount would break, I am a bit old for roll backs :->Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
Injectors, Tune, & Wastgate wont hurt your bottom end, I had all that,plus valve springs, exhaust, intercooler and cross overs replaced score a tidy 323.7 rear wheel KW, and didnt even get close to needing a stronger bottom end, The next step was a bigger better free'r flowing intake plenum and bigger turbo, and after that was thinking I might have gotten close to doing it. Should have pushed between 350 > 400 rwkw. after the 400 rwkw is where you need to think about it :)
metal stoppers built in will ensure if rubber lets go, torque twist doesn't do any further damage.
a mate of mine broke std mt and it saved his from this sort of disaster.
looking at pic you seem to be missing such added protection.
just trying to help, hate to hear it went pear shaped on you.
cheers
lol what ever happened to welding a couple of chain links on them.
It worked for the demo derby specials in the 70's
I might look into it after its on the road. BTW I do appreciate your comments.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
Putting in the Sub Tank at the moment and have cut the three lines that run to the rear tank and was intending using some brass olive connections but they won't clamp down hard enough for my liking.
How would I go slipping the hose over the pipe and securing it with a hose clamp? It does have to hold over 4 bar of pressure from the EFI pump.
Updates:
Ordered new alluminium fuel lines so I can run them down the correct side.
Short motor and Head back from a full reco, gave the block a quick coat of Red engine enamel.
The Short motor had some very bent rods, I had spares but they needed close and hone work as no caps for them.
I have ready to go in all new genuine head VRS kit and bolts, timing chain set, water pump, plugs and igniters, FG sump and pickup. All waiting assembly when I get game and I am finished with the NA motor I am using for test fitting.
Vapour injected Gas kit arrived which I needed before the final engine fit.
Working on the Intercooler fitting at present, I might go the BA AC condenser so hoses become a little less of a pain.
are you running an aftermarket bar? ive been contemplating removing my AC from my build, just to get that little bit more flow over my radiator, half the front end is covered by an arb winch bar. I'm not trying to steer you out of running AC, im hoping your response will steer me to keep it
No, just the dealer supplied alloy bar without the winch. With the BA motor I think I can move the radiator and condenser back a fair bit to gain clearance.
Got a little bit done this weekend.
GU column in ready for the new black leather Airbag steering wheel.
Fly by Wire pedal mount fabricated and installed.
Air Filter finished and installed - this has been the best part of two weekends.
Steering wheel arrived, could not be happier with it.
I have said it before but this is trick. Your attention to detail is awesome and you could nearly be mistaken that this is how it came from factory top build mate awesome.