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What you've quoted me on in your post is not referring to a CRD Patrol, Bigrig (who I was referring to) has a GQ with a turbocharged 4.2 petrol engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteGU
It would not be essential to do a transmission upgrade on a chipped and exhausted CRD. For what you are planning you will only need a big transmission cooler, the rest of the transmission will be up to the job.
Tony
Slight Hijack here, excuse me lol. If im driving in and out of boggy patches is it safe to select and leave it in 2nd (for example) so that i can give it a bit of power and then let off without the transmission changing up to third? Should i just select drive and let the box do its thing? When is it not safe to shift an auto manually through the gears?
And sorry again for the hijack!
It’s never not safe to drive an auto manually. Personally, I do it all the time, particularly with the Patrols transmission because it has a shockingly poor TCU that doesn’t control the transmission like it should. The patrols transmission in auto mode shifts too late into 2nd and too early into 3rd and 4th. I always have it in HOLD mode and shift earlier into second and then hold it there a bit longer before going into 3rd and I only use 4th with the converter locked above 90km/h. I do all downshifting manually also, because you almost need to floor the throttle to get the TCU to do it, which isn’t necessary most of the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
My Diesel Holden Cruze, with it’s 6T45 transmission is light years ahead of the Patrols RE4R03A and shifts up and down perfectly according to load and speed as it should, even though that does have a manual shift mode. It’s a shame that Nissan didn’t fit a manual shift mode to the Patrol.
Chaz, I' don't know match about aftermarket TCU's, but would an aftermarket TCU fix the shifting problem? can't you program the aftermarket TCU 2 do the shifts when you want it 2?
Cheers
Todd
Hi Todd,Quote:
Originally Posted by toddrhind
Yes, there are a couple of aftermarket transmission controllers on the market that do an excellent job. A good mate has recently had the HGM Compushift unit fitted to his Traytop CRD auto by Wholesale Auto’s and he loves it. It’s totally programmable, but as he was the first to have it fitted, I think there were a few teething issues. It’s quite an expensive option, but gives good control and can be setup to personal preferences. Rodney should have a write up on his website about it soon.
Thanks Chaz.
A mate always manually changes his mav. I wasnt sure if it was bad for them. Cheers for clearing that up.
My GQ doesnt have a HOLD button, it only has a POWER button on the stick which im sure just lets the revs get a bit higher before changing up a gear (had a VS Calais with the same button).
I am getting a rebuild and having a heavyduty valvebody fitted as we speak and by the sounds of it this will sharpen up the gear changes. Cant wait to test it out!
I was spurred to research this mod to address tranny overheating when crawling with larger tyres. I did the easy ET method on my 90 tb earlier today and after taking it for a quick test drive am very pleased with the results. A must for any auto in my opinon. I'm using a push on/off illuminated switch on the shifter shroud in easy reach. I considered the dip switch but decided the hand switch is better for my use.
Great that this has worked so well for everyone else, but somehow I've managed to mess it up.
I used Chaz's circuit, and found the right wires on the TCU for a GQ.
Now I desperately need help to know where to go from here. On my first test of the manual lock up nothing seemed to happen, then when I turned it off the TCU locked the converter up itself, but it dropped out again soon after. It stays locked for maybe half a minute, then cuts in and out a few times, then works for a bit longer again. Rinse and repeat for as long as I kept testing it.
I then bypassed the relay manually but it still has the same problem. All I can think of is that the relay failed somehow, and sent power where it shouldn't have.
Can anyone tell me what part is most likely the problem now? Lock up solenoid? Torque converter? TCU?
Thanks.
Hi ripper,Quote:
Originally Posted by ripper
There should only be one wire going from your TCU to the converter solenoid in the transmission. From memory I think its terminal 21 on the TCU, but not 100% sure as GQ models did change wiring wise over the years. You need to cut that wire and connect the relay in between it.
You shouldn’t need to use the brake switch part of the circuit because your transmission won’t lock it’s converter in first gear unless you have changed the valve body at some stage, so try just fitting a switch to the TC solenoid and powering it manually to see if the problem is in the TC or the TCU. If it works ok like that, then chances are that you may have connected the relay the wrong way around. Make sure that the common contact of the relay (30) goes to the solenoid and not the TCU.
Thanks heaps Chaz.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz
It's terminal 22 in our GQ. I tested that with a test light before I cut it.
I think this is exactly the mistake I've made. The wires from the TCU are in heat shrink, and a bit hard to trace which is which (I've got the P/N lock out wire in there too). Tomorrow I'll test which is which with a multimeter. I was so careful with wiring the relays to each other, but when I got to that part of the wiring I remember thinking "okay, they both come from the computer, so it doesn't matter which way they go". I'm such an idiot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz
Hopefully I haven't killed the TCU. Tomorrow I'll find out, because I've disconnected the battery tonight, hoping it will reset itself.