And well this gonna sound stupid but I'm taking it to pedders gonna c how they go with it might well give em crack at it
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And well this gonna sound stupid but I'm taking it to pedders gonna c how they go with it might well give em crack at it
Hi Largey,Quote:
Originally Posted by largey
check all the usual stuff. tie-rod ends, drag-link ends (rod from steering box to stub axle). Make sure everything is tight & in good nick. Swap rear tyres (if not scalloped/irregularly worn). Toe-in needs to be 0-1-2mm in. anymore & only outside of l/h tyre will wear. Correctly adjust wheel bearings as most wheel alignment places dont bother & 70% of the time this is the cause. Caster setting shouldn't be any higher than approx. 1.5-2 degrees. I was a truck mechanic for 20+ years & some mercedes used to do this to point of shaking so bad they would break steering arms. You want good flat rubber on the front ,a dynamic (on vehicle) wheel balance done along with proper alignment. There should also be (can't remember the exact ft/lbs) a certain amount of pre-load on the upper & lower pivot bearings. Hope this helps
Cheers for that spanner! Some good info, chuck up an intro mate :)Quote:
Originally Posted by spanner
Its not often a problem ive heard of with patrols but if you still have you sway bar fitted check the link rod bushes. I recently had a car that shook so bad from a loose nut on the link rod it bent the panhard rod. Also with these lads suggesting that ur tires may be out of round, jack ur vehicle up so that the tires are just a mill off the ground and slowly spin them and watch the gap. Also check the top of your shock towers in case a shock has partly punched through. And if its really that hard to find whats wrong with your car you may not look stupid to check the rear end of your trol. It can be surprising what something broken in the back can feel like in the front.
I reckon their should be a comprehensive guide done up on the shakes and how to eliminate it as it would have to be one of the most commonly asked questions i have ever seen.
when i was an apprentice there were plenty of manuals and guides with this sort of information. It would just be a matter of finding the right textbook, google can fix anything man
I've even had brand new tierod ends faulty.
ebay items, had to throw all 4 in bin and replace.
Local bullseye supplied at similar price, and problems solved.
Iv'e notice alot of stuff on sus-bay prices are becoming retail, no real saving .
Especially if your purchasing something 2nds in quality.
Quality can at times be considered suspect reguardless of their claims.
If return or warranty is short term , then you weight it up.
Steel type rims are bent and or out of round more time than not.
Pays to check em before you throw any new tyres on em.
You could just be making a temp fix .
And rims soon ware/damage new tyres , and problems back.
1 of the post mentioned jackup and spinning tyre slowly to check for out of round tyre.
Recon you should be trying this for sure.
You need to study whole surface of tyre .
Have had outside edge ok, but inside out of round.
And visa/versa.
Do all of em incl spares, your spare/s could be faulty also.
Well looks like I'm in for big day tammaw will start checking out problem one at a time
Have you checked to make sure the free wheel hubs are disengaged. If the front diff has a bit of wear and tear it can set up a wobble in the tailshaft giving you the "death wobble" sensation.
I had same prob recently. Did pan hard bushes, now old girl runs straight and true.