Under body rust prevention

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Originally Posted by Peacemaker

Lanolin Liquid Protectant

http://www.erps.com.au/lanolin-products.html

spray it in and it will creep in every nook and cranny to protect it. I do it about every 3 years. Just water blast outside surfaces to remove dirt and salts and spray it on,in and around and it wont damage any thing. The only draw back to using it is you will notice a lot of KIWI's rubbing up against your truck.:tease::eck05:

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yep thats what i use and reaply every time i wash under the car. so ive put it on once so far seems to go along way and dont stink like fish oil!

Yeah i use lanolin on the doors inside,and fish oil on all the chassis areas---dont forget--pull ya sun visors out an spray through the hole it came out of.....gets in around top of windscreen and down front pillars!!!!!

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Originally Posted by Robo

The problem with electronic protection is.

It does not protect against chemical corrosion at all, not 1 little bit.

It relies on water for the protective electrons to travel across the surface of panels, so if the panel is dry then, well you guessed it, nothing.

You drive threw a creek or on beach and the area that gets wet, is being protected.
Once dry again protection ceases.

Any chemicals left behind by water can and do attack your precious toy.

So unless you own a submarine !!.
and then you'd be using a knoble metal in conjunction with electronic protection, if possible to use both.

There is plenty of research that has already been done on net for all to see.

I know this isn't related but I'll throw it in.

Ever wondered why the bypass fitting on your expensive engine are only zinc plated metal?.
And not a nice anti corrosive metal like brass.

Answer is, it is there to act as a knoble metal.
"A sacrificial anode if ya like".
It is cheaper and easier to replace than that expensive manifold or cover it's screwed into.
yes they are a pain if they corrode.
but it is intentionally engineered that way.
say $20 fitting ver $400 die-cast piece. you do the math.

cheers

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X2, i think a lot of people put too much faith in electronic rust proof systems, i wish they had seen the amount of cars ive come across with electronic systems and rust (my own car included), read the fine print on the warranty, most dont actually cover "anything" other than what the car manufacturer already covers anyway, and think about it, whats the point if they dont protect/cover any exposed metal ???

Some will make you "pay" for yearly inspections to pretend your covered.


I can sell you a little box with a LED flashing light, fit to any brand new car, and ill "warrant" you will not get perforated rust ,while the car is still covered under manufacture new car warranty against rust (on most this is 5-10 years anyway) ............what a SCAM

Go with what the others said :thumbup:

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Originally Posted by gqpew

I'd also be interested in this. It'd be great if someone can post recommendations.

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+1 I want to do this to my old bus as well. Might do some research and if I find anything I'll post it.

Great thread and some good ideas. I have a electronic rust system that i haven't installed yet. Im SUPER paranoid about rust so i'm going to invest in some fish oil and use the garden sprayer to apply it.

My MK project has a few rather nasty rust spots and I am looking to both repair them and prevent re-occurrence, It looks like it was rust treated early in its life and there is rust in just a few spots where the treatment has broken down
I am looking for some thoughts on cavity wax versus fish oil.
I have been told that cavity wax tends to flow further into joints than fish oil but I cant find much info on cavity wax.

I have now looked at electronic protection and very much share Robo's misgivings. The theory of electrical protection holds true if you can achieve a difference in potential and if the metals are immersed in an electrically continuous electrolyte. while the pads are attached to the body you have no difference in potential and I don’t aim to keep the whole car in an electrolyte. I also have a concern as to what may happen to the 400+volts if a contact pad came loose while I was having minor disaster in a river. 400volts in that sort of electrolyte WILL be fatal to both you and the little fishies.

Back to topic - Fish oil or cavity wax??
Alan