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as Kallen has said, sounds like the rim is roo ted
only way to fix it, and not have a problem is
pi$$ off the alloy rims and put steel rims on..............
the alloy rims and the nuts holding them, are the biggest single factor in the rims coming loose
I've has a GXL Fairmont (Alloy rim) loose a wheel at 110Kms on the Hyw
I've had a GTS Monaro (Alloy rim) loose a wheel at 100kms on the freeway
both times when I checked the rim, they had BOTH been over tightened by the tyre place, and stuffed the rim
never had Alloy rims since
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Nord-lock have a range of wheel nuts and Belleville locking washers.
Not sure if these would suit the alloy wheels or if Nord lock could make them to suit.
If anyone resurches them please add to this post.
Nord-lock.com
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I grease my wheel studs every time I do a wheel change. Every time. I have found this aids in achieving accurate torque tension and I have never had a drama with any of the car I have owned as a result.
My logic, if your stud is dry and you try to tension a dry wheel nut on a dry stud then you deal with thread friction and your torque wrench may bind early and click. You have thread bind but not necessarily bed tension under the nut seat which is the point.
Applying grease to the studs allows the nut to tighten down on the thread and the nut bed down and you will get an accurate bed torque tension. I always use a torque wrench and never have a drama.
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cant go past regular checks myself and have seen people with wheel nut indicaters fitted who didn't even keep an eye on them as they believed the indicaters would stop loosening nuts.Saw a great idea in the Pilbara fitted to a trailor which was a solid steel multihex ring arrangement which was fitted to a trailor with 27mm wheel nuts and would stop movement.Have since found out that the trucking industry use them but at this stage not in smaller sizes,theres a big market out there for someone
