On which end? It seems the dawes is doing its job though as you can limit your boost....
On the highway I run 15psi...Quote:
Originally Posted by roofy
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On which end? It seems the dawes is doing its job though as you can limit your boost....
On the highway I run 15psi...Quote:
Originally Posted by roofy
After pissing around for hours today and achieving bugger all and $50 worth of diesel, no matter what adjustments I made I couldnt get the boost gauge to register anymore than 9psi, and basically non responsive no matter what, so I pulled the IC off, and sure enough I could see signs of fresh oil seepage in 2 different spot, so the joint that preasure tested had NFI what they were doing, also the pipe that runs from the IC back onto the turbo where my boost gauge line was plugged into, is as dodgey as hell, a previous owner had installed a brass joiner, but must have broken it and it had all this black crap like plastic melted over it as quick fix, I hit this crap with the grinder and the brass piece had a huge hole in it, so I'm 100% guessing this is why i'm having issues with little to no show on my boost gauge, on idle the needle valve is doing what it should, so the loss of vacuum is the problem with the boost gauge, so the IC will be taken in tomorrow tanks removed and welded up, then presure tested by someone who knows what there doing, so do you guys think those sus areas would be the cause of the boost gauge not working as it should? I have 2 new gauges and I tested both with the same results, but on a side note, with all the playing my truck is running sweet with 0 limp mode and plenty of get up and go, and the egt's are hovering on around 320 at 100kph and climb to around 400 on a hill
Also to ask the pipe that runs from the IC back to the turbo, is this right pipe to use for the boost gauge?
ok but you have more air going in so that would allow you moreboostQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Rickie. If you have a boost leak, which it does look like you do, you will struggle to get boost pressure via the dawes. As for boost fitting placement. Anywhere from the turbo right around to the intake is fine mate.
Ok still waiting to get things done, sent my IC in to get the tanks welded and that ended up a mess, so waiting on a brand new one to arrive, anyway decided to have a play with the dawes valve, removed from car, and thought I would get a rough setting of around 15psi using my compressor, so hooked up dawes adjusted the psi on the compressor reg to around 17 psi, and kept adjusting dawes till I could just hear air escaping, had a spare boost gauge and hooked that onto dawes valve sqeezed the trigger and was rather happy to see gauge just pop over 15psi, I think this is probably a good start to get you in and around a ball park area of settings, once my truck is going again it will just be a matter of fine tuning the dawes
new IC showed up, got big girl up and running, well must say setting up dawes using the compressor was a success near spot on, just a little tweek more to 17psi and she's spot on, pyro reads on steep hill a frag over 400, sits a bit below 200 cruising, so pretty happy with that
Hi guys, I imagine this dawes valve Rickie3 is playing with is a valve that bleeds off boost to the wastegate control to allow the wastegate to open later?
I am sorry if i sound uneducated. Can someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Regards Otech66
I'm getting a strange thing happening when it hits 10 psi, its like a blow off valve type feeling and the boost drops, and a sort of pig rooting effect, think I might have to re-do all my settings from scratch, also occasionally hitting limp mode, personally starting to think this dawes valve is too much stuffing about to get it right, stopping and starting lifting bonnet on the side of the road to make adjustments is crazy, surely there has to be a more effective system for these engines than having to dick around doing this
Yep get a diesel mech to do it for you haha.