My poor GU Y61

Rudy,

I don't have the Auto, so I can't replicate the problem for you, but from reading the posts, it looks like you should be able to test the theory yourself, by driving along - make sure you are on the road on your own with no one behind you, keep the accelerator pressed, and then touch the brake pedal at the same time.

If it shuts down, then you have most likely found the cause without the dealers help....

If it does shut down, do it a few times to confirm.


Mic

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rumcajs

You could have a look at the link posted earlier in regards to brake switch although that fault seem to only put engine to idle not actually stalling the engine as is my understanding in your case. Switch should be mounted near above brake pedal it works like mechanical device where pedal/linkage will press on it when released basically momentary push to break/connect circuit switch.
Is this occurring all the times or just at some conditions that is engine cold/hot, long drive than coming to stop, hot day cold day, particular electric/electronic equipment used, fuel tank half full, etc.
You can do a little test, if it is fairly predictable when engine cuts out/shuts down/stalls on coasting to traffic lights at particular speed, particular operating temps etc. Being auto box can you start proactively coasting with the auto lever put in neutral first before you come to stop, let say observe at what speed the engine dies and that try to put automatic tranny in neutral manually and than see if engine stalls again. If it doesn't than I suggest you could have a problem with automatic transmission perhaps its a long shot but it could be that torque converter is not disengaging under some circumstances and once the engine is stalled oil pressure in tranny is also lost so converter free up (this could be lock up clutch in the torque converter).
I'd start taking/observing exactly under what circumstances does this occur like speed, temps, gear selector position (D), terrain etc.

Cheers

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Rumcajs .. the other thread did also mention that it shutdown completely in the middle of the intersection ..... still a mystery at the moment, but we may be a little closer to a fix

OK, so what exactly did Nissan do for $500 or so apart from changing fuel filter?:frown:
This is more interesting when you say it shuts down while actually just idling after you have started it.
To me this has all the hallmark of "electrical gremlins"
We need to go back to basics.
Vehicle battery, condition, age etc, battery connections, sound, tight clean?
Earth strap/s conditions/connections, consider additional earth strap between chassis and body
Alternator condition/charging rate?
Fuel delivery system integrity (no leaks/air suction)

Visit a good sparkie to have battery/alternator and connections checked first. have him to check that brake switch operation too just in case but I doubt it.
Also power supplys to on board ECU needs to be checked but if you are not cycling key on/off than I fail to see how is that an issue but still worth checking.
Including and not limited to engine position sensors (cam/crank) and their integrity/connections

Visit licensed/authorized Bosch fuel injection specialist to checked the fuel system integrity.

If still not fixed, get a jerry of petrol and do insurance claim (just kidding):sterb003:

I really recommend to obtain Scangauge/Ultragauge which are OBD2 (On Board Diagnostics v2) scanners, are able to read various engine sensors in real time (RPM, boost, voltage, rail pressure, etc)

This has to be a process of elimination and perseverance.
Don't give up

Cheers

Rumcajs,

Thanks so much for your persistence and help, I really appreciate it. It did something really funny today, at the set of lights just idling away and I made sure that I didn't have my foot on the accelerator at the same time as the brake. The light went green so I went on my way only to find that I no power and then it shut down. Also something I only remembered today, before taking my truck to the dealership, I was driving along and both indicator lights come on on the dash for a couple of seconds.

But as for the main crank battery in is less then 6 months old had that replaced in one of the services I got this year. The second battery only 12 months old.
I will see if I can attach some pics I just took of the batteries. And I will take your advise and book it into an auto sparky and buy a Scangauge. With the scangauge is it something I can do or is this better left to the pros?

The blue battery in the crank and then there's the second with the battery separator.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rudy

The blue battery in the crank and then there's the second with the battery separator.

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On a different note Rudy, I would either put some corrugated conduit on the wires going directly over the Aux Battery Mounting Bracket or run the wires a different way, so they don't rub through and short out....

You could glue some conduit along the top edge of the metal bracket too, which would provide the same level of insulation protection.

Mic

Scangauge 2 or Ultragauge 2 are for drivers/persons wanting to know more about their vehicles. They're small LCD monitors/displays which are connected to vehicle diagnostic socket and mounted on the dash somewhere within field of vision easy reach. Easily configurable, display useful information like trip meter information, additional engine sensor information like boost pressure for example , worth IMHO, the diagnostic part is a bonus. You can read and delete DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes)no need to visit Ni$$an st$alers for that..
Here is mine equivalent of Scangauge (Mine doesn't support OBD2 protocol so I can't use it I use ECUTalk LCD for Nissan Consult protocol)
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps1f9bfdcc.jpg
I no longer look at Nissan gauges just at the LCD panel, it show everything I need to know.

The indicators flashing randomly could be a part of power/earth supply reset, I actually wonder if NATS (Nissan AntiTheft System) has something to do with those engine shutdowns than.

The OEM battery connections are cheap crappy terminals which are prone to failures,
By any chance your troubles haven't started since you've had the crank battery replaced?
I have for example found to my surprise that what I thought to be tightened ground terminal was actually loose and I could easily pop it off the battery post while clamped tight :1087: about 6 months after I replaced said battery.
So I have replaced the earth terminals recently with something more decent ==>
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps451963a5.jpg


Here is a little info to get you started as well


Cheers

Thanks rummy. You'd think the guy who makes these would atleast put some effort into design. I think I will get one but not use it all the time. Where you have yours sitting is where my boost and egt gauge sits.

Yer thanks rumcajs, last night I ordered my scangauage should get it in the New Year knowing how slow postage is at this time of the year.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudski

Thanks rummy. You'd think the guy who makes these would atleast put some effort into design. I think I will get one but not use it all the time. Where you have yours sitting is where my boost and egt gauge sits.

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I don't think there is a point to spent cash than just to use it occasionally.
Get the ECUTalk cable instead (or make your own) and use ECUTalk software on a laptop/notebook/netbook when you need it.

Cheers