Baby steps good man, you’re a Legend!!
Get the big screws on top first then try and close the bonnet, decisions can be made then......and breath [emoji106][emoji106]
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Baby steps good man, you’re a Legend!!
Get the big screws on top first then try and close the bonnet, decisions can be made then......and breath [emoji106][emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Unfortunately I don't have the dyno results for the larger dia snout pulley running at 10psi. Whats the long life limit on the 6L90?Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Yeah I know, just trying to get things orderly in my mind as i only get small chunks of time usually for mods. This one will be a little different. I was hoping to do the engine pulley swap over the Xmas break, but looks like the custom 8 rib serpy pulleys might miss the xmas deadline. If thats the case i will do the body lift instead and chew on those lemons. Speaking with @MudRunnerTD today about the process, he assures me its not too big a job, one person for a day should knock it, only the rear mounts require some access surgey to get to the bolt heads - checked it out tonight riefly and does not look too bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
ET, now that it is sold, are you willing to share the photos of the endless air installation? You displayed some resistance when i was trying to sort mine out, but now that I am moving to the Serpy belt any help would be appreciated????Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
Please please Philstar do take some roof rack weight off then mate if going up that extra 1” body higher. I personally would try everything else but that first honestly mate!!
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I hear you, - but - I will see what goes, as really i have to be able to get it inside the garage as well and dont want to have the stuffing around of dropping tyre pressure for that!. I dont carry the galv box anymore so just roofrack, solar panel, 14klm of copper cable and some antennas, should be ok, but hear you load an clear.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Great to hear mate, and truly honestly only trying to pay back a whisker of the best guidance off site you’ve always kindly given myself and closest!
COGravity coin would be best IMO spent on keeping the old faithful GQ beast low and slow with a set of GU stronger/wider axles my friend [emoji106][emoji106]
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So where are you going to sit when I get the garage to handle the height of the portals? Hope you are not going to restrict me to the likes of jells park or Chadstone shopping centre? Yes they are 100mm wider, but 4" taller. Anyway. I am in no hurry for GU axles, mine have lasted just fine to date with the driving style i adopt.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
All I can say old mate is that two high horsepowered TD42Ti GQ’s live on the next hill over to ours. One is a lightweight usually solo driver with stock axles and super lightweight rack. Other is a family man with much baggage atop so opted for wider COG axles. Both are neck & neck comparatively acceptable IMO :-)
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Gotcha, thanks, good way to put it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Fact trying/finding on the brews now here. Was told by a bloke visited near our Albury border last week that SCharged Optimizers fixing their cranks was quite regular for him before?
https://dewarsengines.com.au/chevrolet-diesel-engines/
Nissannewby & OldMav strongly advised me too against SC our 6.5’s years ago.
Must say, old Wal on the border and his top mount turbo air/water cooled system looked pretty descent!???
Happy with my NA twactor climbing (soon again) just food for thought :-)
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I specifically did not want BD to supply the pump, as I will go AirDog or FASS.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
BD made no mention of body lift to me, as this will affect the fan shroud on the rad, my preference is to run no body lift.
The 6L90 is rated to 900Nm so the boost will need to be moderate.
My P400 has one of those 300HP pumps fitted, will be keen to see if there are local to us guys that can tune them.
Do the Optimiser's have the forged crank?Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Not sure Ralph mate.
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No, induction hardened cast ironQuote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
You cant successfully turbo the GQ due to under bonnet heat retention. I will stick with the smaller boost I recon and go the body lift unless I can get a definite clearance height really quick that says i dont need it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
I should be ok then as the P400 come with a forged crank.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
I am not concerned in the slightest at 10psi boost, will be fine. The turbos are set up at 15 - 18psi on these motors anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
What is the difference or why your preference for the FOSS or AIRDOG - I know nothing about these pumps and would appreciate the feedback before I commit to the BD solution.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
thanks
The guys over in the states run these, they include water trap and aeration removalQuote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
https://pureflowairdog.com/
https://fassride.com/
https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...-decide.12100/
Thanks Ralph, I have had a look and I think I am on top of the filtration, just need to mull over the fuel delivery system.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Now, finally tracked down Bullet cars as they had a Telstra outage last week, hence why no phone calls or emails, and here is what they have told me
1) the 300hp pump is actually closer to 275
2) boost ranges are dia 65 pulley - 18psi, dia 70 pulley - 14-15psi, dia 75 pulley 10-12. I am going with the 14-15psi option.
3) no body lift required - they are 100% certain of this
4) they have been supercharging these engines for 8 yrs and never had any feedback re engine reliability. They do still get warm though as would be expected and I am ready for that.
5) torque is 900NM at 14psi boost
That’s all great news mate, happy days!
900Nm through your 85% reduction gears and you’ll be able to rip some tracks D9 styling [emoji106][emoji106]
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@poindexter, I had a look and thats really interesting about the entrained air into the fuel. I think I might just pick up one of the Raptor pumps -don't have room for the air/water separator system, and whilst this unit does not remove entrained air, it would I think limit the turbulence inside the fuel lines that form cavitating air pockets I think. great bit of info. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
What fuel pressure do you think you will run?
I am guessing 5-8 psig at WOT to ensure there is no negative load on the pump. I am basing this on an idle condition now where i have 8, that falls to zero at redline revs and the engine is running out of punch, which might be normal, but am thinking it would be better to have a constant pre-charge on the injection pump right thru the range. So, if I base this on what I have now, I would want a pump that has a capacity of say 15psig and yet to know what the flowrate is though. My Optimiser taps out at 52lpHR. What do you think? This would basically give me a constant 8psi pre charge on the injection pump right thru the rev range.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Or better still a constant pressure pump at 8psig, but no doubt more expensive.
I was thinking that 8psi may be a bit low. Some of the US guys run 25psi.
Have you any recommendations from Bullet or BD?
What will you do for the exhaust?
Nothing about pressure from BD, only flow increase but Greg is playing that close so he can supply a pump I recon! I can ask the question of Bullet and let you know. Regards exhaust I am probably going to increase from where the cross over pipes join, and flare up to 4" from 3". I think there is a company in Aust - pacemaker? that makes a set of headers for this motor, so that will come later I reckon.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
I was thinking of doing exhaust design like this. Which is the same as what Marks 4wd sells for the LS conversions
Attachment 77111
That looks great. I doubt I would have the room though to be honest - GQ is very skinny. I will start off with the 3" then do the 4" expansion as noted.
Hi all just talking with a mate who just brought a brunswick diesel GU 6.5 TD.
he asked me if he needs to laminate the front diff?
Plus as hes only had it a week it overheated last week when it was hot any suggestion?
Any imput would be great, TID|A
I think @MB is your man for the GU as he seems to have his running cooler than originally.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Bullet advised me today that 8PSI is the number. They don't see the need for a greater pressure. Flow increase - yes, and they would not give me a number - no idea why - I will ask again. Its getting a bit frustrating right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Have asked the question of both Bullet and Brunswick and both declined or avoided to advise the required flowrate. Pretty annoyed, but now have both of them supposedly wanting to supply a suitable lift pump - will see what I finally find out. Either way, it does not sound like they are putting too much application energy into the selection, more that they are using pumps readily avail in Aussie market.
OK< S/C ordered, additional accelerator cable bracket ordered, return fuel line kit ordered, 320HP pump ordered, 8 turbo injectors ordered, just need a TD42 accelerator cable to interchange with the existing.
Delivery could be before Xmas but depends on availability of the 8 rib pulley sets that are custom for this installation. Looking at filters now, like the look of the K&N washable units, have checked there is a size that will suit the application, circa 300mm long x 150mm diameter x 90 ID, looking for alternate options - think a cylindrical pleated will fit best for me. Air to and from filter box to be 100mm, fed from 100mm SS snorkel.
Much cooler for its purpose built slow high country stuff now, wouldn’t recommend twin electric fan setups for highway purposes though @threedogs mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
I can highly recommend these Thermostat’s (2 needed) as was found so too do many many yanks.
Video below showing Rainsey on here years back of the difference between Aussie ‘Tridon-82C’ versus Yanky ‘ACDelco-88C’
https://youtu.be/Z5v9x4FFjng
FWIW: The US Military specs for 6.5 water temps is 88C minimum to absolute max 125C.
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Did you end going with Bullet or BD for the kit?Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
I seemed to be getting stuffed around by Bullet, and their past was worrying me, plus BD gets a pretty healthy discount, which he passed on about $400 of saving - no idea what he buys them for but I have his quote and its about $700 cheaper, however as normal, there ends up being a raft of extras that are not included. For example, you need to upgrade the fuel return line and there is a kit for that; there is also a requirement to buy the 'under manifold' throttle kit, plus source a Nissan TD42 throttle cable to mate with it as the HD unit BD supplies with the N/A system wont fit anymore. So I went with BD as they will be my interface with Bullet and BD takes the risk essentially and also has the relationship and knows them better. The s/c will be avail somewhere around jan 14 but could arrive sooner if they put it together and send later this week, Bullet are shut from Dec 21 to Jan 14. I am waiting for confirmation from BD if I will get their side of things before Xmas as they are waiting for the 8 rib pulleys. Bullet have ordered the 8 rib pulley for mine today. On a positive side with Bullet they did send me the PDF of the SC installation instructions.
Please do pause on that purchase for a bit Ralph mate. Pretty sure my currently shed bound big donk GU has stock zaust manifolds pointing near straight down on the arse end!Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Our GU firewalls are a hell of a lot closer than I too can remember mate :-)
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I think he was showing more as a concept that actual MB. But good point to mention. I have even less room than you guys so cant do that config. Looking last night at the injectors to remove - holy hell its going to be a mission!Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Spoke with the VASS engineer today about putting thru engineering once the S/C is fitted and what else needs to be done in preparation. He claims I need to install a diesel particulate filter in the exhaust. Does anyone have experience with these? I did a web check and they are big, restrictive and expensive, yet BD says he gets his for a sell price of $250 each - doesn't sound like the same thing. My vehicle is a 1997, and i would have thought it would be exempt, apparently its a change right across the board. Apart from that, nothing else, no brake test as already done, happy days, just hand over the cash./
Hi PB that's is correct, get a "100 cell cat" for the least resistance to flow, welcome to the new world we live in......Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee