Thanks for the info peeps. Probably better off getting the alloy than continue toe repair the old style.
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Thanks for the info peeps. Probably better off getting the alloy than continue toe repair the old style.
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FWIW mine came with an alloy from previous owner (unknown brand) and kept falling apart on the local rough roads. Changed to a local brass for over say 4 years now without issue and are comfortable in the knowledge I can fix it myself out there if ever needed. Was told that alloy is more efficient though so opted for a very open/spread core brass that seems to be working great. Can get the core model number if you need for secondary quotes mate?
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That would be good. Natrad say mine is full of holes yet it doesn't leak from anywhere except the filler neck. They couldn't find any replacements tanks and want to fabricate new radiator
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No problem, give me 10 mins mate.
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‘Y7452’
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/06/178.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/06/179.jpg
My local builder also plumbed the bottom end from passenger side across to gain as much water crossing as possible.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/06/180.jpg
In their stock form (yanky trucks) I believe our 6.5 Chev’s have the TS top housing facing opposite so this is not needed for crossflow. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/06/181.jpg Disregard my thermo fans, awesome in the slow bush tracks but not much chop on the highway hauling.
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A better radius bend bottom pipework setup would have been nicer though if done again!
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Thanks for that mate. Will help me out today with the ring around
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Hi all. I have just acquired a 2001 patrol wagon with a 6.5 turbo chev. I have been doin a bit of reading about them and found out that there is a stronger version of the motor called the p400. How exactly do i know if i have a p400 or not?
Keen to find out what i have.
Motor installed in 2013 and has about 45000 on it now.
It was a new crate engine.
Thanks!!
The P400 has a reinforced bearing girdle so is approx 3" taller than the Optimiser or earlier 6.5. @poindexter is installing one into a GU ute right now, so should be able to give you more clarity. Failing that do a google search and I think the difference is obvious. I would be surprised if you had the P400 as they are more difficult to fit than the other engines. I have the Optimiser n/a fitted to a GQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEaX3H_lBAY
Have a look at this clip, especially around the 1min 40 mark. It shows the engine in detail and the extended bottom girdle
Thanks for that Pee Bee. I have a steel sump so until i look further on my days off, i think it is the standard optimiser engine.
Cheers
There is a P400 cast into the engine block drivers side rear, just below the head, easy way is look for the girdle.
Honestly waiting to admire the GU P400 beast when built Ralph mate! Please do keep me/us posted as a rebuild for my turn of the Century engine plants 2000 questionable Optimiser I believe is due for some loving and or swapping.
From my little research I’m worried about having to utilise massively extended front end bump stomps to protect their lower sumps mate?
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I'm waiting to admire the Beast that is P400 too.
OK, its been a few months since my last post, time for an update.
Regarding the P400 build, nothing has happened.
Today, I removed all my gear from the guy who was supposed to do the conversion.
I had been patient up until now, but after having the engine and car for many months and doing nothing, I pulled the pin on him.
This was a guy that I trusted and thought would do the "right thing", but this has not been the case.
I have given this guy many opportunities to correct the situation, but I think it was ultimately outside his comfort zone.
To this end, I have secured another dude after many weeks searching, to do the conversion.
So, 10 months from the start date, I am here again at the start again.
October is the nominated start, less than 2 weeks away.
We will see what happens from here, otherwise, I'll do it myself, like the last 6.5 conversion I had.
Fingers crossed!
Really sorry to hear this Ralph. Its a constant tension condition for sure when you are expecting something and it simply never comes around. In one way perhaps its better this never started, more from the perspective of uncertainty from your guy and potential for things to go pearshaped. Where are you thinking of turning before you start looking at the job yourself?
Thinking about this MB, I would be going with a stiff-ish set of coils , mine are 110kg constant, then adding Superior hydraulic bump stops. These are on my list also, however the extended rubbers and stiffer coils are certainly ok for now.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Bugger, sad to hear Ralph mate, please do keep posted, stay the cause ;-)
Bloody hard donks down under to find anyone to touch, you’re the man for da job oneself!
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Mechanical Nuffy I’d be Philstar but as discussed looong time ago my measurements says them Girdles won’t fit for real diff travel 4x4 needs unfortunately:-(Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
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Agree, but for certainty and not having to go thru the BS I did with punching the hole in the sump and smashing the end off the starter motor, max effort needed. All you can do is provide a solid stop with some heavy deceleration hydraulically I rckon. As I mentioned, my system works but the sump is a long way further up that I reckon Ralphs will end up. Anyway I suspect he has resolved some cunning plan to squeeze the monster in, even with limitations.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
IIRC Ralph, original plan was to raise the drivetrain, floor pan tunnel, donk and all mate?
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Fark, that is going to be a major engineering pain I would think. Just thinking that scenario thru now, multitude of issues come to mind.
Had a quick search and BD have done a conversion with a P400 into a GU, but its a caravan tug it sounds
BD did supply an oilpan that allegedly does fit, we'll see then....
I hope it has a greater volume than the pissing little pan supplied with the Optimiser.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Massive thanks to @MudRunnerTD (Daz) for putting me in touch with a Legendary old school mechanic for some overly kind Free friendly advice on the 2000 6.5NA Twactor quirks.
Far from a mechanic me but always thought compression testing was my next steps when time permits.
Never heard of “Leak-Down Testing” before but are sure now after speaking that this is truly the way to pinpoint a specific cylinder, top and or bottom annoying issue near exactly!
McGoogled it tonight and seems so simply practical for diagnosis I hope!
https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-...-leakdown-test
Truly appreciated Daz/Chris Blokes!!
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@PeeBee old mate, new to me and obviously haven’t bought an ‘LDT’ kit yet so soon as was kindly advised from the Blokes.
Cutout below from the link found trying to learn:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2018/10/23.png
Would there be a time period to consider versus percentage loss I should be working too?
The link found is confusing me a little as I’m sure over extended time periods all perfect cylinders would leak eventually?
Cheers!
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Mark, we typically leak test compressors and the like over night, however am unsure if the tolerances are the same, maybe @nissannewby could assist or @garrett?
Reading the procedure suggests the results should be fairly instant, as you are testing each leak point then moving onto the next cylinder.
Cheers Philstar, appreciated!
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Slowly but surely getting there, Leak Down Tester arrived this week, needs some diesel modifications/adaptations made though.
https://youtu.be/0tZNh9dEt00
Instructions below for anyone else interested as I too never knew this pinpoint/isolating test existed.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2018/11/83.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2018/11/84.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2018/11/85.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2018/11/86.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2018/11/87.jpg
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OK guys, today it gets serious....
Truck has been dropped off for the transplant, lets see how it goes this time 'round.
Almost a year latter to the day I dropped off the truck to the "first guy", now we start again.
Will I start to hold my breath now, or not.
Best of luck Ralph, hope it ends well for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Bit the bullet today and purchased the serpentine belt upgrade to the front of the chev to double the water pump capacity and get it prepped for the Harrop 2300 supercharger installation early next year. The kit includes the new water pump, alternator, vacuum pump, Duramax 11 blade fan and new radiator shroud, crank pulley, idler take ups, upgraded serpy belt from 6 rib to 8 rib and all brackets.
The immediate challenge is deciding which snout pulley to adopt then finding the clearance as its close to the bonnet. Just found out I may need to do a 1" body lift unless I can find the space by removing part of the bonnet stiffener - late notice and a pain.If I go the smaller pulley, which will improve clearance, the dyno results from a guy in WA just this week had 1100nm and 262kw at the rear wheels on 35's, running at 12-15psi -18psi but the egt's start getting up if you stand on it, I will try not to stand on it too often. Also recommended a 4" exhaust from where the cross over pipes join, up from 3".
Way to go PeeBee.....
Bought a set of 1" body lift blocks today as the SC snout looks like its going to get too close to the bonnet. Additionally, the BD supplied electric lift pump is too smaller for the application, so have to buy another one, same pressure rating, just higher flow. @poindexter, have you purchased your from BD - a Sniper I think he said? The existing pump he supplies runs out of pressure at around the 52LPHR mark according to my fuel computer and flow transmitter. Just another thing that has come out of left field. Also, probably going to need surgery on the ARB side rails as they are a close fit with the factory flares.
Sold mine yesterday :(:(:(:(:(
Alas there was only room for one stonking great V8 powered Patrol in my life so 'Big Red' is off to a new and loving home and 'Moby' the great white whale is the new big kahuna.
A sad day to hear E.T but for the best no doubt mate! Moby would suck the doors off Big Red if left alone together for too long :-)
Whack a Harrop Supercharger on your new White Whale and watch it breach hard ;-)
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No PB, I dont have a fuel pump, will watch with interest how the supercharger goes.
So, you are sure that the snout requires you to body lift then?
Did the WA guys say what Injector Pump they are running?, that torque puts it outside the range of the 6L90 I have.
I assume you are getting or have the Bullet kit?
cheers
Being that you’re converting to a serpy belt system @PeeBee mate you may not need the rollover body lift hopefully mate. No doubt you’ve done your research that only the NA V belts we currently have need the extended forward SC snout.
A custom fiberglass bonnet bump could look mean and make some more wiring space good man!
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I am surprised you were not sold one with the big injector pump? I know that mine (existing)needs the pre-charge. We did a high country trip last year and I managed to pull a connector apart and disable the pump, the thing ran like a limp dog, soon as i found the issue and plugged it back in, all the smoking and carry on ceased. I specifically asked Greg today if the lift pump they supply for the Optimiser N/A is going to sufficient as it is maxed out, according to my instrumentation on board at 8psi at idle, then falls away to zero psi at 52LPHR. He replied I would need a "Sniper Pump' which was still running at 8PSI but higher volume at WOT. - another $200 thank you - so i am having a look on the net to see if i can find one, as the one I have on the vehicle and the spare i bought from BD, but later found them on the net at 1/4 of the price, delivered.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Regards pump he refers to a 300HP pump and its set up by the guy in WA, the Standyne expert. Before I take delivery of it I need to decide if I want to go 10psi or 16psi, as no doubt that will affect the pump calibration. the injectors are also supplied as Turbo spec, and these are also required. I am trading in my existing pump as part payment for the new one as mine has only done 5000klm
The SC is a Harrop 2300. I rang Harrop in Melbourne direct but they dont sell the inlet manifold or gaskets or the linkage assy for the throttle - not sure I need it, but will determine in due course. They did say they supply the SC to Bullet for their kit though. I think I will probably purchase it thru BD so at least i have some certainty of supply. I know Bullet have some skeletons in the closet and I tried to call them but the call went 'nowhere' and they have not answered my emails.
Regards the body lift, i am totally confused. I have two photos showing the snout and pulley is below the top of the oil filler cap, yet one guy in WA 'just did the lift to give a bit more clearance', and BD are saying it needs to be done. My issue is that its another thing to do, another issue with engineering to overcome and the ARB side Rails are going to hit the factory flares before i reach 25mm lift on the front, so this will require some surgery. I could leave the lift until its installed I guess, however the fan cowl needs to be manufactured to fit the duramax 11 blade fan, and it can't be made to cope with the possibility of the vehicle lift or not as the centre will be 25mm different - so need to make a decision and its do the lift, and know 100% the snout will fit and the fan will sit on the centreline of the cowl. I don't know the clearance or the effect of say making a circular fan operate in an elongated slot cowling??
Regards transmission I am going to stay with the manual for now as its what i prefer to use in the bush. I can't see me needing all this torque until i start towing something to be honest, but just being a torque pig should be fun, as long as the clutch can take it.
Mark, still struggling to find out the ruth whether the 25mm lift is needed or not, so can't wait for a qualified answer as the cowl needs to be manufactured, so going with the lift anyway. Its a tiny shift to C.O.G., and don't expect to alter anything with our HC trips. Regards a custom bonnet like yours, well I did enquire at the time you got yours but that mob don't have a mould, so it got complicated and expensive. they wanted me to buy a bonnet, ship it to them, then place a minimum order of 5 units to get it down to what you paid - which i can't remember right now, so 'looking mean or not' its not in the budget.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
I am going to address the wiring issue on day, but not right now. Its a bloody rats-nest i agree and impossible to trouble shoot.