This beast Philstar brother:-)Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
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This beast Philstar brother:-)Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
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Very good call too ET mate! The V belt does carry on a wee bit when hot :-(Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
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Fired the old twactor up again colder just now, pulling 14.4v :-) ET might well again be on the money!! These damn V belts have next to no tension means bar a crappy idler of 10mm say.
https://youtu.be/E6rNO2IPKM0
Sitting in the cold beast now reved up a good 14.8v + :-) Damn ‘new’ belt I believe now is getting hot and expanding/not spinning the beasty Alt :-) No wonder it hauls the winch so well in the snow boys, lol :-)
Thank you All greatly!!!!
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If its stretching when hot you should smell it, hear it and see the rubber discoloured on the drive surfaces, most likely polished finish - is this what you have? If so the belt is cactus. If you are struggling with belt tension, go down one size belt if you can to get the most out of the tensioner. I get my belts from Total Tools and they have a huge selection, but Bursons should also have a good stockholding. I don't know if you have the opportunity to go a double Vee drive on your setup? If so, this will help for sure.
I believe so now thanks mate, remember I mentioned up on Dingo Hill Track a short lived burning smell that I thought was my clutch. It is a relatively new ‘Gates’ belt from ‘Bursons’ and was the smallest I could possibly fit over the idler when new/cold. There may be a way to utilise its twin pulley with an extra off the water pump pulley somehow, will check it out tonight after work, Cheers!
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I'm surprised some one doesn't use one of these
https://alternatorparts.com/
Great linkQuote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Jeez they have some nice doodads, twin and triple rectifier kits and enough amperage on some of their Alts to classify a Trol as mobile Genset not a 4X.
I see they sell a cooling kit as well.
A 2 inch 12V axial fan and 2 inch tubing, wouldn't be hard to dodgy something like that up I spose.
I have already sent this link to MB for his info. I will be buying 2 off the 400 amp units for fitment to my 100amp and 200amp alternators next month.
I sourced a 3" bilge pump fan from Whitworth marine to cool the alternators, works a treat, but generally only use it when statioary for an extended period, temps and charging seems ok with vehicle moving
Cheers Blokes! Phil if you could kindly order for me too next month would be greatly appreciated mate, maybe postage save together?
I’ve sussed out a possible Alt twin V belt option tonight by installing a larger belt to share across with the PS pump and off the crank together. It will require an additional idler pully for guidance away from others though, for now all I could do was to stretch the last bit of life out of the belt. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/01/147.jpg
Installed the unpainted new bonnet from Blitz before doing another identical hill test run flogging it again with the boat. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/01/148.jpg
Alternator sits perfectly in fresh air flow now.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/01/149.jpg
Seems to have worked for now on the Alt although time will tell without the secondary belt yet and a rectifier thingybob.
Best news for the new bonnet has been water temps ran 3-5 degrees cooler on the big flogging haul up compared to last night and temps dropped about 3 degrees below TS presets when cruising on the flat, very happy, will test some more for sure!
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Good result MB. I will order 3 x 400amp units next month.
@MB, here is another belt option. 1) Space the alternator out by 1 pulley sheeve and run the existing belt off the rear groove. Buy a 4 sheeve pulley for the crank and the water pump and run the additional belt so now both belts will be the same. You will need a double adjuster pulley as well. Its a bit more work, the additional overhung load on the front bearing will be minor i believe.
You seem to be going through a lot of effort on this charging thing.
200amps would be more than enough in my view.
I haven't read all 101 pages of this thread, but I don't get why you want 800amps charging capability? have I missed something.
Ralph, unsure who this directed at MB or me? I don't know what the 800amps refers to either - maybe clear that up first eh.
POST #1008 : I have already sent this link to MB for his info. I will be buying 2 off the 400 amp units for fitment to my 100amp and 200amp alternators next month.
I assume you are replacing the 2 Alts with these 2 400amp Alts
OK, sorry. We are talking about the diode pack/rectifier upgrade only, not the alternator. I agree 2 x 400amp alternators would be an overkill unless you wanted to winch all day and the wiring upgrade would be a pain as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
My "PeeBee Special" oil cooler arrived and very nicely engineered I must say now I've seen it in the flesh.
I'll definitely wack it as soon as possible after I sort out the unions required if I use the existing oil cooler pipes.
Thanks for putting us onto them Cobber
No problems. I was driving mine around in 40 degC over the weekend and it was cooling the oil by 30 deg however its noticeable that this decreases when the vehicle is stationary as it becomes a simply radiation temp shedding instead of having the temp being stripped off via a convection method.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
Thought it best to post up here a small issue found on the new fibreglass bonnet 4hr highway test run in very high ambient moderate hauling heats recently. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/01/239.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/01/240.jpg Doesn’t really bother me but the flexing/curling of the width of it may aesthetically upset a buyer looking for perfect panel lines, Cheers!
EDIT: This could possibly be a reason for the found instructional sticker atop of its arrival to “Test Fit First Prior Painting” maybe I’ll look at a matched white vinyl wrap again for flexibility like my old TD42T steel work bonnet logo cooker :-)
EDIT-2: Bake the cake prior to icing;-)
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MB, this should warrant a call to the manufacturer I reckon. based on it supposedly being a direct replacement this is horrible.
Secondly, no idea what the two edits mean, so again, full marks to the secret message to the beasts who can understand it!!!
looks almost 5mm too narrow on both sides, could just be parallax error tho....
OK, here's a question for the GU 6.5 owners' out there.
What is the clearance from the oil cap at the front of the engine to the inner hood?
And if you are running the A/C on the passenger side, the clearance from the compressor to the inner hood.
I'm trying to determine if I need a "non stock hood" with the P400.
Sorry Ralph, can’t help with either measurement mate. I’ve already installed the new hood and my NA has the A/C compressor down below on the passenger side.
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I thought the accepted P400 mod for the Patrol was change the sump so everything else stays the same.
FWIW mine has the ZD30 bonnet (A/C on upper pax side) and oil filler, A/C and I/C all fit tickety boo.
If you raise the entire engine to suit the factory sump then you will run into issues other than just the bonnet clearance I would imagine
Thanks Mr Twin (or can I call you Evil)
Good point that you make regarding the oilpan.
From my research, there tends to be minimal clearance at max travel, between the oilpan and the diff, so I was looking at possible options there.
I too Ralph was under the impression that the sumps on the mighty P400’s would need customisation to fit in our GU Trols. Something to consider doing this fit might also be oil volume in the end. My NA stock sump holds a measly 8.6L and are currently increasing total volume to over 10L at least needed IMHO by way of PeeBee’s fin twin cooler and long lines.
Do you know mate what the P400’s stock oil volume currently is as I’m thinking that maybe the P400 girdle not only strengthens the bottom end but could expand oil volume needed beyond the sumps max limits possibly?
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OK good point MB, what would be the ideal oilpan capacity be then?
Cheers Ralph mate!
10L+ I believe for my old grunt NA slug hillside twactor. If you’re looking to SC the beast you’re building I’d uneducatedly say shiploads.
I am honestly/truly needing to learn what a GM fixed weapon P400’s oil capacity is so I can please try to mimic! Thanks mate!!
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the service manual says 7.6 liters (8 qts)
Update on oil cooler added recently. Was using it in mid 30's over the last 4 days and oil temps were between 25 - 40 deg less on the discharge side compared to input side in low range 4wd, say 5klm/hr average and mid 30's air temp. If the vehicle was stationary, as was the case with the winching activity which took maybe 30mins i guess, the temp difference was perhaps 15 degC, as there was no forced airflow over the fins - very impressive to say the least. Driving home on the freeway, the difference was 45 -48 degC at 100klm/hr, 2000rpm, EGT 300DegC, air temp circa 30 Deg C
What are you guys doing for lift pump and filtration?
Ralph, BD supply a cheap in line filter pre the lift pump. I change this every 5000klm with the oil. I also run a 100um pre strainer down near the fuel tank, which is fitted with a 12v heater mat for the colder month trips. I run a CAV filter with clear glass bowl in the engine bay for final filtration and change this every 5000klm at oil change time as well.. I tried to duplicate this filtration at the fuel tank end, however had to 'retreat' to the strainer as the lift pump would not suck and push thru 2 CAV filters. When I remove the bowl to inspect it, first did this at 1000klm, at first oil change, it was clean and now water of scum/sediment, so happy with this set up for now.
I bought a spare lift pump off BD and they charged me $250. I checked the model and could buy the same pump ex USA for $80 including freight. I can dig out the model for you if interested, but will be tomorrow as its in my spares box under the truck. I think it is rated at something like 150LPHR at 12PSI - apologise for the mix of units.
My rig has a standard el cheapo $20 inline 12 Volt pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Connected to a standard el cheapo $5 Ryco inline throw away 'pre' filter.
Which pumps into a $120 Donaldson 3 Micron Filter/Water Seperator
Thanks Ralph, correct you are mate! Just checked the military manual for pre-2000’s and it also says 7.6L including filter. My current extra 1.0L is including the existing crappy cooler and lines I should have written. As before I want more ‘total’ in this old gal :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
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I believe mine is all old stock/original TD42 gear mate. Lift pump on chassis rail appears OEM, Filter is (your old mob) Bosch 1 457 434 281 which I believe is OEM Nissan too.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
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Found this helpful little guide from Dayco USA confirming ET’s Amps versus Belt selections. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/02/114.jpg Was recently toying with the idea of a 6 rib/groove short Holden serpy to the beasty alt but perfect alignment is looking trickier than first thought. Back to the drawing board with Dual Vee’s me thinks now!
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Anybody had a recent conversion that can tell me wether the Brunswick radiator is now alloy or old style bronze. Been quoted 1500 to replace my radiator which is leaking.
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Their radiators are brass. My conversion was done 15 mnths ago. They did not offer me an alloy one.
My radiator is an ADRAD, it's alloy
Did BD supply this? I think thats the question, do they supply the copper or the alloy? They certainly manufacture their own copper/bronze/brass radiators, which was all I was offered when I had the conversion done.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
By the way Ralph, how are you progressing with the P400 installation - all done, on the road, happy?
Yes it was through BD cost was $1545, my builder recommended the ADRAD also.
Project P400 is not on the road yet, will get update this week. Has been slow mainly due to commitments on both sides.