I had a chance to upgrade with very little outlay and I sat on it for too long and just missed out. Ah well, it was to never be I suppose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
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I had a chance to upgrade with very little outlay and I sat on it for too long and just missed out. Ah well, it was to never be I suppose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
I stand by my earlier opinion on the aftermarket extended performance TB42S dizzy rotors that do cartwheel/destroy above.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Have definitely changed my mind on the longevity potential of the Petronix upgraded ignitor from previous owners install.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2022/05/91.jpg
Arrived at final work destination last night and fulfilled a decent days work start today finally. Was greeted by @AB’s overnight Pak&Send thankful parcel of a replacement Petronix from Patrolapart down in Mexico-Lilydale [emoji120][emoji120]
Not a minute too late, we crossed some of the steepest parts of the East Coasts GDR at times down to 1st gear [emoji3541] low range with hazard lights to reach each roller coaster [emoji567] peak for another downhill 1/2/3/4/5th gear 1,000rpm windup again for the next [emoji23]
Petronix has held on for seriously 1,000km of hell but didn’t stop completely, FULL RESPECT Mr P Thankyou [emoji123][emoji123]
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An honest word of warning too for anybody out there Caravan trekking Oz at the moment, please do keep off Armidale Road down to Grafton ways. Possibly the worst/dangerous ongoing bitumen potholes I’ve experienced after the rains these poor buggers have had up here. We’ve broken a spring on the little machine trailer at very low speeds coming down, there’s also a week long I believe cycling event underway, head north or south, avoid at all costly coast drop downs [emoji120][emoji120]
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Cycling event. The easiest way possible to disrupt the most people possible for the benefit of the least people possible to attract nobody to the local ratepaying businesses you've just closed off the local roads to. Get a grip.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Gave the Old Trol a 4" lift with blocks of wood. Gotta get a hoist instead of stuffing around, just to do the Gearbox and diff oil. And yes, that is a ghost standing behind the spare on the trailer.
Best advice given to me was to crack the top plugs first. It took using a breaker bar with a piece of pipe and a bottle jack to get the gearbox and diff top plugs to move. It was touch and go as to whether I needed to weld a socket onto them.
To get the bottom plug out, I used a bottle jack to hold the breaker bar in the plug.
I am thinking of designing a tool that sits securely on a jack, but lets the breaker bar turn.
hahahaha, 4" lift ^^^ nice work.
330000 km service done! What a prick, the front uni joints are to grease. I found it easier to drop the TF case one to get at the grease nipples.
Not today, a few days ago. Drove through two rivers (actually more than 70 crossings in the 190kms we travelled, but most were fairly shallow) both had water the same height & both fairly wide. The Wenlock & Pascoe Rivers on the way to Lockhart River. Deepest water we've crossed in the car. 800mm. Both over concrete causeways , but one had a lot of deep sand on it from when the level had been up to 14 metres recently. Wasn't fun for the short time when all four wheels were spinning & I wasn't making progress. Thought we had got through ok, but yesterday noticed the car was a bit on the nose. Water got in somewhere, just not sure where. All the sound proofing felt underneath the vinyl floorcovering is wet, but thankfully only in the driver side footwell. Today seat is out, various pieces of trim removed & the floor covering lifted with an electric fan drying things out. Might take a while if the 100% humidity keeps up.
Got the brakes and bearings done. Initially got a Bendix ultimate upgrade kit for the front. Rotors, braided hoses and pads, new fluid too. Turned out bearings had to be done as well as the rear brakes too. So ended up doing rotors and pads all around. At least that's out of the way for a while.
Performance? I don't know what to think as this is the first time i've ever had a brake upgrade of this magnitude.
I understand they will take a bit to "bed" in before full effect. So far the pedal feels the same. First half of press more or less does nothing and then it begins "grab". The latter half definitely grips and anchors the car more and i guess it'll become better as time goes on.
But am I expecting to much if i was to say I expected "more" from the pedal early on considering the work done?? I'm assuming it was all bled properly.
Was it braided hoses all round? You can put the TB48 brake master cylinder in which has a larger bore size also, this will assist in braking if you want more.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Let the brakes bed in for a bit and see.
Found genuine pads stop way better than Bendix in the GQ could give them a try or wait they wear out a bit. .
Going to do brake upgrade too soon on GUte as brakes are petty dam terrible, ordered braided lines will start with that but will go TB48 callipers rotors and master cylinder down the track I think. . At least will be able to tell difference instead of doing everything at once which I did with GQ. .
Hydralic booster looks like a very good upgrade too and have only heard good things from those who have done it. .
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Yeah braided all around. Don't know what difference this makes but they came with the kit so i got them fitted.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
4.8 front brake kit was my original intention. But scoring a set is like finding a unicorn with golden teeth. And fronts were getting pretty bad on the car plus ive had a few trips lined up so i had to get everything done quick with what i could grab now. One or both of my front rotors were warped from crooked river barrage of crossings few years ago, so i've procrastinated on it long enough. :biggrin:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
The combo of factory pads and braided lines got me thru the 44 emerg stop test for the GVM upgrade I reckon, great combo. I am running the TB48 booster and master with the Willwood brakes and find the braking better, not hyper dramatic, but no fade now at all and they pull up with a great pedal feel.
Fitted Superior Eng Hyperflex sway bars front and rear today. Rears were a bit of drama, got 'Brunswicked again' with the location of the muffler support bracket being welded over the mount plate, but Mt Grinder sorted that out. The rears are also requiring of a 3 handed person to get the mount plate installed, takes about 30 mins a side to get the alignment inside the chassis rails, however once achieved the setup is rock solid. Massive difference in the diameter of the bars also, up from 16mm to 24mm. Fronts are straight forward. Be warned the instructions are necessary for the front/rear and they are a website download, which isn't clear when you buy them the instructions though are fine.
:smileyvault-cute-biQuote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
If it is only to support the part for alignment and if reachable from bellow, maybe you can use a bottle jack as the third hand.
Rossco, I would cost up the TB48 calipers, rotors and master cylinder against the hydraulic brake booster from Mark's 4WD. Personally (and this is the way I decided to approach it) I would do the hydraulic booster first, then add calipers and rotors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
The TB48 calipers will work well with the hydraulic booster if you decided to upgrade them later, but I gotta say you will be more than impressed with the difference just the hydraulic booster has on the braking response!
What I’m about to do to Agatha3?Attachment 85353
Yeah definatly not a bad way to go. . Looking online looks like Mark's kit is listed as 1400 to 1800 mark, got a price from patrolapart for calipers, rotors, master cylinder and genuine pads for just under 2K all new which doesn't sound too bad really. . . Anyways start with lines then flip a coin maybe [emoji848][emoji6]. . .Quote:
Originally Posted by Cremulator
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Have to agree.. I did the DBA slotted rotors with ECB Yellowstuff pads and all braided lines as well. Was better but still not really reassuring enough. I did the hydro boost mod and it made a really significant difference. I should have tried the hydro boost first like Ash did.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cremulator
It should be $1,250 for the TD42 or $1,685 if you want braided lines with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
I put the braided lines in with the hydraulic booster.
If you do go for the calipers, rotors, master cylinder and pads from patrolapart, I would be very interested to do a comparison :)
Just curious Rossco have they given you a timeframe for the parts?? When I spoke to them 2 weeks ago about the 4.8 kit, the bloke giggled and said the waiting list grows by the second.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
No its the get the plate inside the cross member and lift it upwards to align with the holes in the chassis rail then hold the bracket in place while you screw the bolt in, all done under fatigue and aching fingers by that stage - its a right bugger of a job, but the only solution I can tell.Quote:
Originally Posted by BrazilianY60
Was that new or used? Didn't give an exact time frame but sounded like some were on the way not too far off . . That's all new stuff think used calipers at least go out the door pretty quick. .Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
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Yep I use Genuine pads. I find them great.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
My TB48 upgrade is awesome but I find now its too good and in the wet its a bit sketchy. ABS would be handy now.
I have a set of front discs and pads, secondhand, we’re put on the patrol before I bought it and I changed all of them after a year to slotted and new pads so if you need or anyone some $100 plus post
Gave it half a 2,500km round trip collection Piggyback [emoji23]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/05/146.jpg
Tight but fit …………just [emoji51]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/05/147.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/05/148.jpg
Stupid spark spazzing distributor owes me $1,500 worth of diesel when I finally track another one down here in Mexico, aint none in NSW that I could find dammit [emoji22]
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Wow lucky for the tight dimensions of the stealth bar, no chance with an ARB high mount special[emoji6][emoji6]
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Bloody hell MB you'd be better off buying a RAM pickup for work towing duties.
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Or you could swap TB <> TD motors with me would be the best outcome, you’ll love the 4.5L Young Blokes burnouts this thing can do when firing properly [emoji123][emoji123][emoji23]
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With mates like that who needs enemies?? [emoji1787]
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Must say Brother, you’re only half my age but definitely twice as mature, there aint no now or ever fooling you Legend [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
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TD42 was using ~20L per 100k.
Replaced air filter but it wasn't bad other than the fact that there had been some dust getting past the foam seals between the filter and the DTS air box. Unfortunately DTS doesn't sell replacements just wants $350 or suggested some weather stripping but I would rather not risk a gap where the ends meet so ordered a Radius air box.
Put some injector cleaner in the tank and two cans of Liqui-Moly Resealer Engine Oil Treatment in just to see if it actually works.
replaced the fuel filter, this had some large lumps of gunk around the water sensor so I am guessing this was the problem.
Had a little helper jump in when they noticed my arms about to fall off trying to remove the fuel filter. Unfortunately it was just good for a laugh.
Attachment 85396
Fuel consumption returned to ~12L per 100k for almost two tanks but after 1200k fuel usage went back up using half a tank to go 200k so I am guessing as the tank got low it sucked up some more crap.
Tested the head and rewired the trailer sockets to suit the pop top.
Took it over the scales.
2960kg with about 100 litres of fuel, myself and the old battery that was taking to the tip. My gvm plate states 2960kg as well. Would hate the think what I'm at with 220 litres of fuel and camping gear... Shit even without the camping gear and the main tank full I'll be over.
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You and around 90% of Patrols on the road mate...Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
C'mon mate how can that be? What's adding all that invisible weight? Larger tyre/rim combo than factory? Roof rack? Drawers? Fridge? Dual batteries? Winch? Bullbar? Amazingly huge knackers?? Gotta be more breathing room than what you've indicated surely.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
I remember when I took my Patrol for the Engineers certificate, the engineer said Patrols and Landcruisers were so close to their GVM from factory, with a car full of the allow passengers and the tanks full its on or over their gvm. Mine only passed because I didn't fill my tanks and it went of a massive diet pre inspection.Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
Off the top of my head I thought there was approx 400kg to play with. JC said just him and a battery on board. Something's not right.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
The only things that you didn't mention are fridge cage and drop down slide and scrub bars and sliders.Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
I'll gone to the tip with a trailer full of crap and have been over 3300 kg
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Really doesn't take that much Plassie if you think about it. I was surprised my self when I went over the scale. Bullbar, winch, alloy roof rack, 33" steelies and tyres x 5, and draws (roughly80kg). Both tanks full and me in the seat, I was roughly one adult away from gvm. Add some camping gear, beer and it's game over.Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
That 400kg play is eaten up quick by accessories, which on a STOCK car would be eaten up by passengers.
I've since ditched the draws and a heavy AGM. Gained a lithium battery at rear. But also added a rear bar with swing aways. So Don't know where it's at now.
Most GU's run similar setups more or less and as i said above I reckon most would be close if not over in "camping" mode.