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Sure is, have always preferred sleeping up top on utes away from critters as best as possible[emoji106]
Sir Roofy, Bless Him, once gave me a good morning talkin too though for parking too close to his and Jane’s caravan.....reckons the mut wouldn’t stop barking/snoring out there all bloody night [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
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He was being polite mate. Wasn't actually the dog snorting all night :DQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
Just got back from taking the old girl to Murrindindi, awesome weather, river swimming and waterfall walks.
It’s great to get back out there after lockdown!!!
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+1 Fark Lockdown Attachment 82543 :)
Look2d at it again and againhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2020/12/1.jpg
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Mean, yet still as sweet as Apple Pye...3.142 Expedition Marron [emoji106]
Harrop that Black Beauty up and raise some serious Mafioso back hairs Brother [emoji41][emoji106][emoji106]
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Been looking at airflow to the radiator lately and despite my grill area being very open, nil obstructions at all, the Nissan plastic grill blocks the airflow by around 40%. So..... out with the magic grinder and out the centre section came. I am already running a mesh bug screen that would be up around the 95% open area at worst, so hard screwed that over the hole, added a 8mm threaded rod across ways for support and back in place - will be interesting what difference it makes. I was prompted by a post from a guy in the NT who was having trouble with his chev conversion overheating, and he played around and removes the entire grill over the summer months and fixed his overheating issue - worth a try i reckon.Attachment 82559Attachment 82560Attachment 82561Attachment 82562
No way that expanded mesh is 95% open - I reckon 70% tops.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Whatever Bud, you do your homework and I'll do mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brissieboy
Just a note on the tyre balancing thing .
Ever noticed the red and yellow dots on the side walls .
Red is the lightest part of the tyre , and goes to the valve stem
Yellow should match to a indent on the rim . Cheap rims probably won't have it .genuine rims do .
One of the fist things I learnt hanging out in the old man's work shops as a kid .
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Thats really interesting, thanks. I have noticed those dots before but never knew why they were there.Quote:
Originally Posted by gaddy
What the??
Just checked mine and I see no dots of any colour (Mickey Thompson MTZs) and no indents on genuine Patrol steelies (obviously couldn't see below lead weights though). Checked inside and out.
There just dabs of paint on the tyre and wear of quickly .Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
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Installed new front CV/Axles in the 35 year old GQ Grandpa Spec ute. Wasn’t 100% happy with the full lock smoothness of CV rotation and some wear appearing on the inner seal axle region.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/12/50.jpg
Usually stick with Nissan OEM parts but....... nearly $2,000 AUD for a set, bugger that!!
$169 per side from Patrolapart for ‘Roadsafe’ aftermarket brand will have to do [emoji23]
Keeping the old OEM ones onboard for spares if ever needed out there or if the aftermarket ones explode, hopefully not [emoji1696]
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Nice. I replaced mine a while back too. NTM branded CV’s which is what the OEM ones are for a 1/4 of the OEM price.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
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Cheers Mr Mark Mate!
Tis a fair dinkum mine field out there finding/trying to make sense of aftermarket quality versus OEM stupidly priced!
Cooling wise, I’m personally staying staunch on OEM and wherever else possible but near $2,000ish for front axles possibly not needed was ridiculous:-(
A serious thread on such pros [emoji739] cons for particular aftermarket parts with found unfortunate/fortunate findings experienced would be factually hopefully awesome [emoji106][emoji106]
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Ok this is strange. Yesterday I lost my dashboard temp gauge. No reading. So i arced up the NDS on the android head unit via the nisbie and it was giving me accurate water temps via the ECU. Disconnected the battery overnight. Drove it this morning, temp gauge not reading but NDS giving real results. Had a closer look and found a temp sensor on the drivers side of the zd30 with a broken wire. Reattached it and the gauge now works. So..... WHERE THE FUK IS THE ECU GETTING ITS WATER TEMP READINGS FROM?
Theres another coolant sender unit for the glow plugs, from this one I would assume.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickhead
Today, I picked up and fitted a Tigerz11 Grande 12,000lb winch, and over the past few weeks I have fitted a genuine steel winch bar, rated recovery points to the front, make and installed a table for the rear door, fiited LED lights over the table and into the awning, and last but not least fitted a rear work light.
Decided to start on the installation of the Boss rear Coil brackets after work stalled today. launched into the drivers side at 11am, crawled out at 3pm, what a fiddly job it turned into. There are two bots that need to be undone that hold the brake lines I am guessing, so the 4 mounting bolts can be installed in the top plate. On the garage floor, could not get the nuts undone, so drilled them out. Found I actually had a 50mm coil spacer on top of the 300kg Dobinson coil - forgot it was there, so out that came as well as a Firestone 'in coil' airbag.
All back together on drivers side, sitting down a fair way, have not inflated the BOSS triple airbags yet but think a trip down to Dobinsons in Dandenong in the new year to get another set of rear coils, heavier and longer. Tomorrow i plan to do the pass side as its supposed to be a lot easier than the drivers side. Beautiful simple bracket, well presented kit and instructions including the engineering certificate, happy days.
Bonnet still sitting there waiting for my attention - maybe after Xmas.
Sounds like you are making short work of it. Do you have any pics to share?Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesBrown89
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I shoulda gone the Boss kit. They're a helluva lot easier to install than the Superior kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
At the beginning of a GQ Grandpa Spec ute build/bought up to gnarlier tracks worthiness and currently scratching my head where best to lazy situate all rocker switches pilfered off the soon to be GU daily comfier ute tourer again[emoji120][emoji106]
Found this beaut aluminium extrusion originally family built for a 240v application and after a quick docking fits the old GQ flat dash perfectly[emoji106][emoji106]
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Carling switches off the GU will work well too by the dozen I believe/hope [emoji1696]
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Before I start on this next wacky adventure can anyone kindly please guide me as to whether they believe the summer time parked up windscreen heat might cause an issue on the switches possibly....hopefully not? [emoji120]
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No issue @MB
Thanks Philstar, Appreciated [emoji106][emoji106]
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Bloody nice Markie, think it's time Grampa Gold got his own build thread lol. . [emoji6]
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The drivers side was a bustard. Passenger side was easier. Add to that that my Drivers Side had a 4" tear that I had to deal with. Was a mongrel.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Darren, agree, I was totally over it doing this on the ground. When the guys at Dobinsons dropped the old coils out they found the passenger side top hat screws had rattled loose, yet the drivers which was the pig were tight as. Anyway, would have been heaps easier with a hoist for sure, but its now done and won't be going near it ever again!! Luckily I only had very very minor spring seat deformation and I handled that by linishing off the BOSS steel work a little bit in a couple of spots and it sat perfectly.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
So I’ve been chasing a rattle that resonates from under my feet. Can here here quite loudly from outside when on dirt roads and even sometimes when I go over those small reflectors on the blacktop.
Got under today with a rubber mallet and tapped on the radius arm and the sound is from the drop box.
Pulled it all apart and found the metal stepped bush that goes into the chassis, then a bolt goes right through the lot, is quite lose in the chassis.
Attachment 82821
Attachment 82822
You can see the wear mark on the bush....
I found the small end of the bush is also ever so slightly longer so the washer and nut that holds it in wouldn’t be holding tight enough too.
I rang the 4wd shed to see if I can get a new bush and they don’t think I can. They are ringing Roadsafe to see if this is the case though.
If not I’ll have to weld the bush in....
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So Roadsafe wont sell a new bush. So I grinded about 1mm off the small end of the bush, cleaned it all up and where the bush goes in, smeared the bush in a metal filler putty. Fitted the bush and mig welded it in so it won't move. Put it all back together and its quiet as a mouse now.
I recently bought a roadsafe product....after 4 weeks of asking for clear instructions I give up....
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Cleared some space/mess today so I could properly (face to face) introduce old Grandpa GQ to his new donor GU Shed Queen both soon to be swapping highway <>track roles.
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Golden Gramps is booked in early February for some 2” spring work with 3” shocks for preferred down travel and all his rods/arms are getting upgraded to 21st century weaponry.
First things first, need to swap across the 35’s before any of that work is done and final balance/alignment mid February.
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Gained 40mm today testing out a theory as to try and keep him looking somewhat to 35 year old spec and OEM flares/mud flaps in place.
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Have struggled to find anyone to roll the guards properly so opted for the cut & fold method learnt on here from others kind sharing. (Multi-Tool seemed to keep the heat down nicely versus a grinder)
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Stripped off all the rusty old steel support brackets for the OEM mud flaps.
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Tek-Screws are only temporary before I remove all and paint/ nutsert-rivnut.
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A whisker more panel beating required before final rustproofing to take the kink out of the line but happy enough for now, hopefully no 35” lugs clip at full lock descending is the aim of the game here [emoji106]
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Started mucking around with a new slider theory seen on Youtubey from Yanks and their Jeepies using 6” x 2” RHS (150mm x 50mm :-)
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Looking to add an Aussie twist to it also of 22.5 degrees and also adding internal baffles for added strength and to stop my spare/emergency engine oil and gear oil either side sloshing around down there is the current wacky plan [emoji12][emoji106]
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http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...021/01/137.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
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Yeah I must admit I cringed when I saw the pics on MB hacking at the golden oldie...
Me too sadly on the very first cut Mudski Mate [emoji23]!
In fairness, he’s retired from work now and really wants to see some beautiful untouched country before his time is up....bucket list adventures whispered [emoji106]
Good Vic-Roads news read from Jaysee Mate here today though, if Gramps TD42 ticker ever does give up, he’s still eligible for an LS1-2 or 3 or X transplant under the new pre 2002 emissions rulings I believe [emoji23][emoji1696][emoji106]
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Yeah I couldn't have done it to that grand old girl...Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
He isn’t as showroom Grand as some of my previous pictures may have displayed over time Brother Mark but amazingly work faithful [emoji123][emoji106]
Front left guard was unfortunately stoved in a few years ago by an unruly Arab X of which your eldest may or may not be saddling up on tomorrow [emoji51]
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Apologies Team, cannot find a suitable scrub thread for mirrors....GQ and or GU.
Current GQ build are concerned about OEM I think farm spec door panel mounted mirrors damage and quick scrub knock-ability [emoji51]
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Crazily enough the GU’s Pre-Towing Life Clearviews have handled a serious scrub flogging and do have fast ease of pre-reset found.
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Besides the standard old GQ Wagon/Navara D20 woeful vision mirrors only nuffy known is there any other possible/hopefully solutions or advice GQ Legends ?[emoji1696][emoji106]
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Do a quick google search but apparently the 79 series landruiser Clearview will directly bolt onto your doors with minimal modifications.
I have got the GU mirrors bolted to my GQ but I have different doors with the electric mirrors. Love em! Can see the whole world behind me.
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