Mudski GU Build Thread

It is amazing the way technology has progressed. Previously, say 10 yrs ago the only way to get higher output with halogen was to go higher wattage. I used to run 55/100, then 90/130 without any on-coming traffic flashing because they were aligned correctly. The clarity on wet roads was my focus. I moved to HID then LED globes, now with LED sealed inserts from JTX that are ADR approved and have a lifetime guarantee for failure or damage - yep, break them and they are replaced. I dont think they are as good as the 90/130's but changed them out for engineering and happy to stay with them

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudski

Uhm... Where is this rubber hose?

---

Attachment 88294

Attachment 88295

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PeeBee

It is amazing the way technology has progressed. Previously, say 10 yrs ago the only way to get higher output with halogen was to go higher wattage. I used to run 55/100, then 90/130 without any on-coming traffic flashing because they were aligned correctly. The clarity on wet roads was my focus. I moved to HID then LED globes, now with LED sealed inserts from JTX that are ADR approved and have a lifetime guarantee for failure or damage - yep, break them and they are replaced. I dont think they are as good as the 90/130's but changed them out for engineering and happy to stay with them

---

How does this sealed inserts look like?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PeeBee

It is amazing the way technology has progressed. Previously, say 10 yrs ago the only way to get higher output with halogen was to go higher wattage. I used to run 55/100, then 90/130 without any on-coming traffic flashing because they were aligned correctly. The clarity on wet roads was my focus. I moved to HID then LED globes, now with LED sealed inserts from JTX that are ADR approved and have a lifetime guarantee for failure or damage - yep, break them and they are replaced. I dont think they are as good as the 90/130's but changed them out for engineering and happy to stay with them

---

Yes, but unfortunately there is no ADR approved HID or LED globes for the GU Patrols. I may still go down the LED path, but I will wait to see how these new globes go first.

Gottcha, yes the HID are not approved globes full stop, but the 7" round inserts are. PLOD may try to disagree but they are stamped on the light and VASS approved.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PeeBee

Gottcha, yes the HID are not approved globes full stop, but the 7" round inserts are. PLOD may try to disagree but they are stamped on the light and VASS approved.

---

Yep. Good for GQ owners. Us GU owners either have to run the gauntlet with illegal HIDs or LEDs, or stick with candles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BrazilianY60

How does this sealed inserts look like?

---

Just a few of what is available...
https://view.publitas.com/bwi/narva-...-20/page/40-41
https://view.publitas.com/bwi/narva-...-20/page/38-39

Well after maybe 10 years I reconnected the water in fuel sensor. The wires busted so long ago I just left it, out of sight out of mind.

All fixed!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...254bc215e3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a37efea2a8.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I bought a new reverse light from Paul @Lights ; just fitted it and Ho Lee Chit. Bright!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5af623db38.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d74626ae07.jpg

And that’s out of my garage!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@PeeBee ;
Who did your rear chop? Since I have come to the reality that that a Y62 is out of the question. I figured I might make this Patrol into a full on tourer possibly, depending on costs. So the research will start from now I guess.
Plus I want to change out the seats too also. But that’s another story…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Out with the old light bar….
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ad0d6e1f2e.jpg

In with the new.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f93c9b6d77.jpg

I then replaced the original wiper heads with new ones. The old were a bit lose and didn’t really do much when your travelling at 100kph, the just skipped over the windscreen.
These are supposed to stop that issue.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f45f843aa9.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So now I have just discovered one of my driving lights is dead. I thought it was a connection issue but after wiring it direct to 12v and nothing but a few flickering led’s, it’s time for new driving light also. Not what I need right now but…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Two days from going away. I have to work tomorrow and Tuesday. Now the aux battery is cooked.
Other than size. Is there any reason why I can’t use this battery?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...58cb6d8323.jpg

Nevermind. This battery is 20mm too long. Just won’t fit.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudski

Out with the old light bar….
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ad0d6e1f2e.jpg

In with the new.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f93c9b6d77.jpg

I then replaced the original wiper heads with new ones. The old were a bit lose and didn’t really do much when your travelling at 100kph, the just skipped over the windscreen.
These are supposed to stop that issue.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f45f843aa9.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

I found this on YouTube and worked a treat for my skipping rear wiper on the territory. Not saying this is your cause but was enlightening to me.

https://youtu.be/w0I-obFmADE?si=hTXZgEqKoIIpsgUW

Also instead of replacing whole wiper heads that are supposedly sealed units, they are easily disassembled and blades replaced with single blades from the auto store. Recently paid 2 x $17 for good blades rather than 2 x $34 for replacement wiper heads.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudski

@PeeBee ;
Who did your rear chop? Since I have come to the reality that that a Y62 is out of the question. I figured I might make this Patrol into a full on tourer possibly, depending on costs. So the research will start from now I guess.
Plus I want to change out the seats too also. But that’s another story…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Looking good Markie, Phils is a CAM Fabrications kit with an at home install then engineered. . I know DMW do chops in Queensland along with GVM upgrades and chassis extension aswell, not sure who does them in Vic but must be someone out there. . . Yeah it is my dream someday to have a TD GU dual cab tourer would be a bloody wicked car I reckon. . Still never sell the GQ but. .[emoji106][emoji106]

Sent from my SM-S711B using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rossco

Looking good Markie, Phils is a CAM Fabrications kit with an at home install then engineered. . I know DMW do chops in Queensland along with GVM upgrades and chassis extension aswell, not sure who does them in Vic but must be someone out there. . . Yeah it is my dream someday to have a TD GU dual cab tourer would be a bloody wicked car I reckon. . Still never sell the GQ but. .[emoji106][emoji106]

Sent from my SM-S711B using Tapatalk

---

I agree Marko you’ve got an awesome GU TD42 wagon plus fantastic accessories. But I’m going to be devil’s advocate and ask why you want to chop the back off? Any GU wagon can be a touring legend. Everything inside, accessible, out of the weather, out of the dust and UV without the cost of chopping the roof and sides off. Why not keep that stuff in the back inside and out of the rain? Just asking, not judging.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Plasnart

I agree Marko you’ve got an awesome GU TD42 wagon plus fantastic accessories. But I’m going to be devil’s advocate and ask why you want to chop the back off? Any GU wagon can be a touring legend. Everything inside, accessible, out of the weather, out of the dust and UV without the cost of chopping the roof and sides off. Why not keep that stuff in the back inside and out of the rain? Just asking, not judging.

---

Couple of comments. If you do this make sure its a body on job, body off is a mass of complication and heartache. Also the can will be heavier as you have to factor in the frame of the tray, tray and the pod, then all the crap that gets added above the wagon volume. Make sure you do a PSR chassis stiffening kit and I did both the spring tower braces and the cross spring tower braces for total certainty. Watch the overall length of the pod and tray - there is a formula, think its .69 x the wheelbase or something - equates to 1900 from memory on the GQ - additional overhung weight, poorer turning clearances, potential for overloading even worse - I went 1650 with a 1600 pod. Rear suspension will probably need a birthday, and finally mine rides a bit like a boat, think its a combination of the additional weight and the extra height and wind area. I added a 20,000lb hyd winch on the back and that winch mount weight is significant. So weight is your killer. Regards engineering, if in VIC, VASS will want to re-engineer everything on the car, anything and everything gets picked on. I would budget 5K for VASS alone. There are only a handful of VASS inspectors who do body chops and the one I dealt with was a pratt. Lastly you have the electrical complications of getting power into the pod and if you want it removable another issue - all sounds great doing a chop, if I was to do it again I would buy one done already engineered and the 100 problems resolved, unless you want to spend a lot of time and money sorting it all out.

This post has scratched a few scabs. Mounting of rear wheels on the pod sound and look great but I was unable to find a rear pod with adequate bracing for the longer term support of one wheel and jerry cans or two wheels - its aluminium structure, weak and prone to fatigue. I added a mild steel frame inside the pod and it was a lot of work to configure and pick up the load points.

Lastly good luck if you can find a painter to colour match the pod if you want to go that way unless you buy it already done. I went thru 5 painters before finding one. Also, powder coating can be a hit and miss affair on aluminium, so a proper etch primer and adequate top coats is the go. I elected to go with acrylic instead of two pack or enamel due to it being painted in a shed without an oven and in hindsight it was a mistake. The paint is very very thin and easy to scratch, but also easy to repair.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Plasnart

I agree Marko you’ve got an awesome GU TD42 wagon plus fantastic accessories. But I’m going to be devil’s advocate and ask why you want to chop the back off? Any GU wagon can be a touring legend. Everything inside, accessible, out of the weather, out of the dust and UV without the cost of chopping the roof and sides off. Why not keep that stuff in the back inside and out of the rain? Just asking, not judging.

---

So I have more room.. Theres is not a lot of room in the back of the wagon plus cooking out the back of it with the barn doors open is a pain in the ass. A properly decked out pod, that is dust proof, would be ideal for my needs. I've been watching plenty of YT vids and taking mental notes of setups.
Something i'd love to do in the future, whether it happens or when it happens I don;t know, but i want to look into it and get some costs and ideas.

So new driving lights went on the old bus as I killed one of the lights that were in there. Stupid me. Fixing up some wiring, I had the wires exposed, phone rings, I’m chatting away, while chatting I went back to work on the car, I flick on the headlights, turn the high beams on and bang goes a driving light. One of exposed wires was touching a spanner, which was touching something else and shorted it out. I took apart the light and the PCB is cooked.

So new lights went on.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0473847d19.jpg

That was Saturday.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Then Sunday, I take the Patrol out to get fuel, I get back, get out of the car and I have this awful smell coming from the front of the car. I’d never smelt anything like it. It was strong and pungent.
After leaving it sit for a while the smell went. I take it out for another drive. The smell is back.

Well I think I found it. A long time ago two of the vent caps on the battery were lose and they rattled out. Not being able to find replacement caps, even the maker of the battery was not interested in helping, I had no choice but the seal them up. Which I did. Worked perfectly for well over 18 months until now. The acid had eaten through my home made caps and I think, this is where the smell is coming from. Both cells are very dry also upon checking.

So a new deep cycle battery is going in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m happy with the rear carrier I made too.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...10aef857c2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudski

Put some new H4’s in. Hopefully better than the candles I had burning before.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b5decad15e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

What's the verdict on these mate, I'm looking at getting something better for the clubsport..

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jay see

What's the verdict on these mate, I'm looking at getting something better for the clubsport..

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

---

These are the ones I've been using since I've owned Patrols (11 years?). Can rate them highly for vision and very long lasting too.

https://www.narva.com.au/products/48...t-globes--bl2-

My recommendation, after using higher wattage bulbs in the GU – go straight to Stedi copperhead LED bulbs. You will not regret it.

So as of late the kettle has been boiling faster than usual.
So I’ve removed the fan, hub, water pump, radiator, thermostat fans and power steering cooler, and all the old foam seals. Time for a big clean out and overhaul.
There’s a lot going on in front of the radiator.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e508147d06.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Everything’s out. The JPC high flow water pump is finally back in.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2d66ebe381.jpg

Both thermo fans are off and I pressure washed the a/c condenser out. I washed it from the engine side to the outside. The roller door the Patrol was parked I. Front of copped a few bug from the condenser.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4b0b5b1f84.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wire band hose clamps! Why oh why!?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...16ec20fefe.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The parasitic current draw is back! I go to start the Patrol yesterday after being parked for 2 weeks and the battery is completely dead. The hunt is back on.

God! Time to start pulling fuses!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3cfdab947f.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mark, this device might be a bit less cumbersome, I bought a cheapie like this and a more expensive unit - I also have some leaks and plan to dive into root cause as well.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/395301005433

The more expensive unit I sourced from the UK has a higher amp value, circa 80amp from memory but this parasitic load is going to be easility handled by this cheper unit provided it has the resolution I guess

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PeeBee

Mark, this device might be a bit less cumbersome, I bought a cheapie like this and a more expensive unit - I also have some leaks and plan to dive into root cause as well.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/395301005433

The more expensive unit I sourced from the UK has a higher amp value, circa 80amp from memory but this parasitic load is going to be easility handled by this cheper unit provided it has the resolution I guess

---

Yep I have one on the way to me. Hopefully soon.
So I’ve pulled every fuse out I have and it’s still there.
I did unplug the two wire plug from the alternator and nothing changed but I think I have to take the main wire from the back off it to properly check. Which is a pain to do as my intake pipe sits right over the top of it. But I must do it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Could be a pile of very small loads adding up and not detectable by the meter? I have a 0.1amp parasitic load in the POD - not going to chase that as it could be from a number of electronic devices that are simply sipping the power to keep background circuits alive.

I just spent a while reading the GU power delivery diagrams. They don't make it clear in the General Information section if the 100amp protection device is a fuse, circuit breaker or fusible link. If the Gu has fusible links at the battery terminal, then disconnect them. If not and you have pulled the higher amperage fuses, and relays and still get parasitic draw, then my money is on the alternator.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudnut

I just spent a while reading the GU power delivery diagrams. They don't make it clear in the General Information section if the 100amp protection device is a fuse, circuit breaker or fusible link. If the Gu has fusible links at the battery terminal, then disconnect them. If not and you have pulled the higher amperage fuses, and relays and still get parasitic draw, then my money is on the alternator.

---

Hi Craig.

I totally disconnected the alternator and had no change at all.
So I do have another battery that sits on a float charge from a 10amp solar panel via a controller.
I rigged this up to the Patrol in the same fashion as if it were the main battery.
Strange thing happened.
With the original battery being tested. The neg lead disconnected and the DMM probes to the neg of the battery and the neg lead to the car, I open the door to activate the interior light, nothing happens. No light comes on. But the DMM readings will fluctuate from .10a up to nearly 1amp.

hook up to the spare battery, the dmm readings drop to zero and when I open the door, the light comes on and I get a reading of .12amp on the DMM.

I’m not expert but this tells me it’s the battery.

Tonight i will disconnect the starter and see what happens.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe a cell has failed or the battery has been damaged by being discharged too low. Very rarely, but batteries can have internal current draw, too.

New battery on the way today. Hopefully no more issues.

So the old barn door trims were looking a bit second hand so I decided to make my own.
Came up pretty good I think.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a4112598fc.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a32cabb538.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Next was to make up a new bracket to hold the Rear Anderson plugs and a few 12v lecky bits for the rear as previously it was all zip tied up to the cargo barrier.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b7e44472bd.jpg

It took a while to make as I had to think up and make the bracketry to hold it all in.
I was very impressed with my work. Until I folded the rear seat back into position. The bloody seat just leans against the reset button on the circuit breaker!!!! So out it all came for version 2.0 to be made.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mudski

Next was to make up a new bracket to hold the Rear Anderson plugs and a few 12v lecky bits for the rear as previously it was all zip tied up to the cargo barrier.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b7e44472bd.jpg

It took a while to make as I had to think up and make the bracketry to hold it all in.
I was very impressed with my work. Until I folded the rear seat back into position. The bloody seat just leans against the reset button on the circuit breaker!!!! So out it all came for version 2.0 to be made.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Give it time mate you won't need the back seats. I took my out last year and have all this extra room.

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jay see

Give it time mate you won't need the back seats. I took my out last year and have all this extra room.

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk

---

Yeah been thinking about doing that. Plus a myriad of other things.

But i need to get on top of the cooling issues first. Which has gotten worse over the last few years. I have a feeling/ hoping, its the injector pump, worn out or something and its overfueling. As i also notice the EGTS are higher than normal. I don't really have the know how on removing the injector pump to get it tested, and putting it back on, and i don't have the money to pay someone to do it, so it will probably be one of those things that i just put up with.

I did a 4500k trip last month in the Patrol and the water temps were fine then, but i wasn't towing, and the hottest day we saw was 24c.