Hi all hope this is the right section, would anyone know where they put an autron cruise control??
After they did my motor my CC doesnt work and I have no idea where to look, any help would be great
TIA TD
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Hi all hope this is the right section, would anyone know where they put an autron cruise control??
After they did my motor my CC doesnt work and I have no idea where to look, any help would be great
TIA TD
Replaced the failed clutch slave cylinder with a shiny new genuine one and a new braided hydraulic hose to replace the old rubber hose and also eliminates the "Steel damper line" (have no idea why this is there as it does not appear in any of the service manuals).
Attachment 81259
Took it for a run and works just like it used to.
Yeh
Cheers Trevor
I used to alternate feet on the accelerator, sometimes use a little pillow on the floor to rest my heal on ...Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I cleaned it lol
It’s been a while!
Getting it all ready for a local trip in a couple of weeks woohoo!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/06/68.jpg
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Checked the oil. What moron at nissan put the dipstick that close to the positive terminal ? Always wakes me up when they meet :) :)
But on the up side the oil is still very clean at 9500 k since the egr block!
You made me panick! It’s still seven weeks away!Quote:
Originally Posted by AB
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Pulled the transfer case out and dropped the gearbox, just have to 5/8 the imploded zd30, get some money for the ls2, 6l80e, reduction gears, and front locker, and back on the road. Should take around a lifetime but I'm not in a hurry, [emoji2957]
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Isolation has killed us to be honest lolQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Having Lachy trapped at home with his autism along with Mia and my other enjoyable legal court fun journey battle has really taken a toll on us mate.
Trapped rats, sounds stupid and this not me as you know I don’t do caravan parks normally but just heading up to Marysville caravan park and we’ll explore the area for a few days doing basic 4wding and kiddie stuff just to get away and do something lol
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Of anyone deserves it you do mate, your one of the most selfless people I know... Honestly. I hope you have a great time and relaxQuote:
Originally Posted by AB
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Enjoy the secretary mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by AB
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I spent the last 2 enjoyable days trying to make my new carter pump fit my Gq Patrol where it needed to go, with all the negotiation cursing and swaring going along with it, I haven't finished the wiring properly yet but at least it is together enough to finally get it tuned and to top it of most of it was done in miserable wet days of course it is predicted to be fine days when I am back at work grrr.
Put a light bar in,no biggy...not game enough to wire it up so going to auto electrician for that shithttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/06/79.jpg
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There's no point washing it down here during winter,
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Mate, just buy a light bar harness. Comes prewired with switch, plug, relay, light globe adaptor, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by Avo
All you need to do is put pos+ and neg- to your battery, pull out your globe and plug into adaptor, then plug your light bar in and your done.
I’ve done a few and it’s about 10minutes work....
Around 20-30 bucks on eBay
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There's no way I am going anywhere near this car trying to play electrician,I've ear on blown every fuse in cars just trying to fit the old tape players mate,me n electrikkidy don't get along,play it safe,Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxhead
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Few Jacks and you’ll be an expert in no time mate[emoji12]Quote:
Originally Posted by Avo
Just kidding mate, get it over to auto sparky if not confident
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Front RDA slotted and dimpled rotors and yellowstuff pads, thanks @Cuppa (I think it was you) for your recommendation. Also put a new extended main braided brake line on there too.
They say no emergency braking for first 200 miles, so haven't been able to stomp them. They do definitely feel like I'm driving a different car already though!
Attachment 81410
Attachment 81411
Attachment 81412
Walked out earlier today and noticed a bit of green coolant on the ground. Quick look around and the top radiator hose is slightly leaking from the thermostat housing. After having the heater hose let go a few weeks back while on the freeway. I called the local three. Autobarn no stock, Supercheap, no stock, Repco yes 2 on hand. Picked up a pair of clamps too. A little job for tomorrow.
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Pardon my ignorance but why the extended brake line ? Surely the factory 1 isn’t to short to allow wheel travel ? Unless you’ve got a big lift & no sway bars I guess
Good stuff, braided line too!Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-TJ-0
Have you got the bedding on instructions - easy to do, but important I think. I did the x3 for Yellowstuff. Performance noticeably improved whilst out doing it.
When a vehicle has had both new rotors and/or just new pads fitted, there are two processes or objectives, to getting the brake system to operate at optimal performance.
The first step is to make sure the disc face is clean of all oils/anti rust or any foreign matter like previous brake pad material. If the rotors are not being replaced, then it is imperative that the disc is machined, prior to the fitment of new pads- without exception.
The second step is heating (not cooking) the brake rotor and pads, to transfer the pad material evenly, onto the rotor face.
This step involves performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad are heated steadily, to allow the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. The friction surface should be clear of all oils, which are used to stop the rotor from rusting, before being fitted to the motor vehicle. Whilst these will be burnt off, they risk transferring and possibly polluting the brake pad material and will definitely lead to a longer bedding-in process. Whilst performing a series of brake applications to transfer the pad material, care should be taken to not come to a complete stop, as this can lead to the transfer of pad material unevenly on the disc at the point where the pad comes to rest on the friction surface.
• A typical program of 8-9 brake applications, from 60km down to 10km p/hour, without any cool down in between would be sufficient.
For performance pad materials, a further two sequences of ten stops will be required after a cooling down period between each cycle, to ensure that the pads have reached the required higher operating temperature to allow for the pad material to transfer effectively.*
At all times during the bedding in process, care should be taken to not apply the brakes in a harsh manner or decelerate from high speeds, as this will corrupt the transfer of materials and lead to uneven material build up on the rotor surface, which in most instances will require machining to regain a flat rotor surface for optimal operation (Disc thickness vibration-DTV-which leads to brake judder or vibration-see RDA/EBC Bulletin #1
Good stuff, braided line too!Quote:
Originally Posted by 0-TJ-0
Have you got the bedding in instructions - easy to do, but important I think. I did the x3 for Yellowstuff. Performance noticeably improved whilst out doing it.
When a vehicle has had both new rotors and/or just new pads fitted, there are two processes or objectives, to getting the brake system to operate at optimal performance.
The first step is to make sure the disc face is clean of all oils/anti rust or any foreign matter like previous brake pad material. If the rotors are not being replaced, then it is imperative that the disc is machined, prior to the fitment of new pads- without exception.
The second step is heating (not cooking) the brake rotor and pads, to transfer the pad material evenly, onto the rotor face.
This step involves performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad are heated steadily, to allow the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. The friction surface should be clear of all oils, which are used to stop the rotor from rusting, before being fitted to the motor vehicle. Whilst these will be burnt off, they risk transferring and possibly polluting the brake pad material and will definitely lead to a longer bedding-in process. Whilst performing a series of brake applications to transfer the pad material, care should be taken to not come to a complete stop, as this can lead to the transfer of pad material unevenly on the disc at the point where the pad comes to rest on the friction surface.
• A typical program of 8-9 brake applications, from 60km down to 10km p/hour, without any cool down in between would be sufficient.
For performance pad materials, a further two sequences of ten stops will be required after a cooling down period between each cycle, to ensure that the pads have reached the required higher operating temperature to allow for the pad material to transfer effectively.*
At all times during the bedding in process, care should be taken to not apply the brakes in a harsh manner or decelerate from high speeds, as this will corrupt the transfer of materials and lead to uneven material build up on the rotor surface, which in most instances will require machining to regain a flat rotor surface for optimal operation (Disc thickness vibration-DTV-which leads to brake judder or vibration-see RDA/EBC Bulletin #1
It's got a 2in lift in it and at full drop of the front axel the factory line was guitar string tight. It's not too often you get that condition driving but I probably should have changed it long ago to be honest. Not proud of that, but there ya go. Got it done now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprock
Well, I've done that once. I didn't realise it needs to be done 2 more times. Looks like I'll still be able to get it done as the next 2 are done after a cool down anyway. I'll have a look at that tomorrow. Thanks mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuppa
Swapped out that radiator hose.
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Pulled the radius arms out today.
Its a covid job.........
The bushes on the left arm were a not the best.
Attachment 81445Attachment 81446
Have a new complete set coming next week.
Cheers Trevor
Thanks mate , there ya go
Took the drawers out. Served me well but time for a change and an update now I have the camper as primary means of storage(and weight). Not sure what the plan is, but probably just tubs.
Attachment 81486
Much more room!
Attachment 81487
Also, they are for sale in northern suburbs of Adelaide if anyone is interested.
Attachment 81488
Making it a bit easier to see whats going on behind the big bastard by adding a reversing camera with Bluetooth radio. Aldi special for 70 bucks. Slam her into reverse and the video feed from the reverse camera kicks in. I've got a 3 year old and I am paranoid about him following or sneaking outside without me knowing.
Attachment 81620Attachment 81619
Flushed the rad with a alkaline rad cleaner today after checking it a few days ago to find the coolant was black and the hoses had gone hard on the inside due to corrosion buildup.
First flushed and refiled with water for a few days which came out fairly clean when draining before putting in the rad cleaner for a 20min drive which loosened up a heap more but I think there is still a lot left so I will probably be flushing it again in another 6-12 months.
I know they say better late than never but this may just have been to late.
Here is a little of what came out when draining the cleaner which is probably not as bad as the coolant that was first drained.
Attachment 81629Attachment 81628
TD42 was replaced a few years back and the used engine must have been a bit rusty as I had it flushed by mechanics 3 times in the first six months before forgetting to look at it again for a few years.
Nice Work Dasa Mate!
Does make us wonder how many overheating water TD42’s need to consider a top system clean start from scratch approach too mate [emoji106][emoji106]
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Nice mate. Over 40 years ago my old man came home for lunch one day, and just before he left to go back to work I had been bouncing up and down on the tow bar of his car in the driveway (I was about 4 or 5 I think). I slipped off the tow ball and got the right cuff of my pants hooked over the ball. Laying there on my back trying to unhook my pants, the old man came out to go back to work. I shut up because I thought I'd get in trouble for jumping on the tow ball. He got in but before reversing down the drive he thought he should check behind the car as I wasn't around which was unusual. He found me laying there with one foot hooked to the tow bar. I was too naive to know the danger but he turned white. Cameras are a good thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by gazq
While the rad was drained I took it out to blow out crap from the fins and scrape off the mud wasp nests only to notice the end tanks were rating with all the metal flakes that had accumulated in them during the flush.
With a bit of flushing while shaking I think the rad is finally coming clean but there is probably more in the hoses, block and heatercore yet.
Attachment 81638
Whoa, chunky. It makes you feel good though when you see crap like that come out, makes you feel like the work you've done has been worthwhile. That's how I feel anyway.
Yeah if only the work was over I just pulled the thermostat to try give the block a better flush and thankfully the bolts didn't snap but the thread from the housing came with the short bolt and the long one feels like it is going to snap if I put it back in.
Might see if it can toodle 15k into town with one bolt holding and have the local engineering shop re-thread it.
Otherwise I see if the housing comes off the block any easier.
The chunkier stuff can block the water galleries, especially the small holes in the head gasket.
Tested some stuff on the poo. Ok. The 02 zd30 is a bit hard to start first thing on a Freezing cold melbourne morning. Probably 10 revolutions maybe 3 to 4 seconds.. Fires up, runs rough for another second or two. Then runs beaut. Lets out a puff of white vapour. Starts fine all day after that. Put a DC current clamp on the fat wire going to the glow plugs. Relay clicked, but no current drawn. Tested clamp meter on another source and it works. So.. GPs are not working. Do I fix them or let sleeping dogs lie?
With all the spare time with our lock down I parked the patrol on Wednesday night after work and did absolutely sweet f@#k all to it. So much so that I'm driving the Clubsport tomorrow. Give it a good 5 day break.
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Politely pulled over up our big little hill on the way home from the supermarket in the old GQ ute with some 750kg atop to let a V8 Landcrab wagoon arrogantly blast by.
I swear they are a different breed these days, even hardwood logging trucks usually thank me :-)
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Did you get to the big in the block when you drained it,it is on the left hand side between cylinder 5 and 6 I think from memory,when I did ours I flushed it a few times...Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasa
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I would have waved at ya mate....even in a lazycrabQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
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Thanks Brother, even just a quick left/right/left...Tittie flash would suffice a betterer days end :-)
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