What did you do to your Patrol today!

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Originally Posted by mudski

I do agree these are heavy, but I love them. I keep all tools and parts in one draw and food in the other. Fridge is on top and caged, and while there little room left, its enough. But everything is safe and secure. And my wine and whiskey are bubble wrapped and stashed in the side pocket areas too! :D

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Originally Posted by Rossco

Yeah I'm another fan of drawers one of the best things done to 4by 4 sure, love em. Each to their own can be a very personal thing when it comes to packing lol. . .

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While I don't share your enthusiasm for the draws, I agree on their convenience if it suits the person. Especially for longer travel / trips. I loved my draws at the start, neat and tidy setup. Especially cause I got them basically for nothing. But as time went on they began annoying the s**** out of me. lol
Rossco nailed it, what works for others is a nuisance for the rest.

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Originally Posted by FNQGU

That's where the idea came from mate - the weight compromise of the drawer system and then not being able to throw kids bikes in the back of the wagon anymore. Now I have a big pod setup where it all comes out in ten mins and I can still take a load of rubbish to the dump. Yep, there are still compromises (especially with the vehicle itself), but the pod is what it is all about.

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I've always used tubs, usually el cheapo bunnings junk, then later on upgraded to dearer longer lasting units. Call me a tubber if you will. lol Even after I got draws, I found my self packing food in a tub like I've always done. And at camp that food tub comes out and sits next to my table / cooking setup. This eliminates constantly going into the rear of the car, opening doors, draws, and rear bar swing away units ( another nuisance separate subject). If I'm staying for longer than a day / night I usually take the fridge out as well, especially in summer, so then none of it sits in a hot car. Easier access.
And being a daily driver, when I come home those tubs come out in minutes and sit in the garage ready for next time.


http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2019/11/57.jpg

Yep, I'm a tubber as well. I've never had drawers. The first thing I did when I got the Patrol was build a rack for the rear of it. I have one drawer. I like tubs as I just take the entire thing out when camping.

Here's an old pic, it's a bit fuller with stuff these days ...

Attachment 79552

Front wheel bearings got replaced.
And just finished diff oils. Cogbox and transfer tomorrow as I had enough for one day lol.

How often should you do your wheel bearings?? I got 165000 on the Patrol.

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Originally Posted by 10G

How often should you do your wheel bearings?? I got 165000 on the Patrol.

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I'm no expert on this mate. Someone more confident on this may answer. I don't know what regular interval is recommended.
But I believe it depends on style, type of driving you put your vehicle through. If you're a constant mud, bog hole basher Id be looking at them more often for water ingress etc...
Mine got re-packed at 90,000 and apparently looked good. Yesterday they got done at 140,000 and still looked ok but i got them replaced anyway. Under $200 for timken or nsk and while its all apart its a no brainer.
I also checked mine for tightness very 10k or so...

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Originally Posted by 10G

How often should you do your wheel bearings?? I got 165000 on the Patrol.

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Bought my car at 153,000kms. Telstra records show that front bearings had been replaced at every 5000km service prior to me getting it! I suspect it was a case of the company (in Alice Springs) doing the service for Telstra making a bit extra - nothing was repaired, any issue - replacement parts fitted (including a brand new front diff & a radio just before Telstra got rid of it.

Checked & repacked them just after I bought it & again when I fitted new pads & discs at 166,000k.
Rechecked & repacked them again at 203,000 prior to commencing our current trip. They were still fine. However a wheel nut jammed on a stud (Chrome aftermarket 'blind studs I had fitted had chrome peel off inside, jamming the thread & making tightening or loosening impossible - result in a sheared off stud. Not impressed! Put original wheel nuts back on all round. Glad it happened at home. Have another full set of unused Huntsman chrome wheel nuts back home for all four wheels if anyone needs them & wants to take the risk!!

Rear bearings were replaced at 203k - one side had blued up a little & the other side was showing minimal evidence of the oil seal leaking. Had a workshop do that job. They are much bigger than the fronts, but get a harder life if they are in a heavy vehicle. AFAIK they were the originals from the factory.

I do carry a spare set of front bearings with us just in case, & once in a while check for looseness, but haven't found any yet. At 229k with much of the past 26k on rough dusty roads & a few water crossings I should probably do so again now whilst I have access to a concrete floor under cover. Have just added that task to my 230k service.

Checking & re-packing is a bit time consuming, mucky, but not difficult. Buy some replacements plus inner seals & put a day aside for the job. After cleaning all the old grease off & eyeing the bearings up for any obvious damage, I check the cups with a fingernail. Replace if *any* ridge is felt. Replace seals anyway once the old ones are disturbed. Chances are the bearings will be fine & can be repacked & replaced. If so you have a set of spares for touring (but get a couple more seals). If not, you have what you need to finish the job.

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

Bought my car at 153,000kms. Telstra records show that front bearings had been replaced at every 5000km service prior to me getting it! I suspect it was a case of the company (in Alice Springs) doing the service for Telstra making a bit extra - nothing was repaired, any issue - replacement parts fitted (including a brand new front diff & a radio just before Telstra got rid of it.

Checked & repacked them just after I bought it & again when I fitted new pads & discs at 166,000k.
Rechecked & repacked them again at 203,000 prior to commencing our current trip. They were still fine. However a wheel nut jammed on a stud (Chrome aftermarket 'blind studs I had fitted had chrome peel off inside, jamming the thread & making tightening or loosening impossible - result in a sheared off stud. Not impressed! Put original wheel nuts back on all round. Glad it happened at home. Have another full set of unused Huntsman chrome wheel nuts back home for all four wheels if anyone needs them & wants to take the risk!!

Rear bearings were replaced at 203k - one side had blued up a little & the other side was showing minimal evidence of the oil seal leaking. Had a workshop do that job. They are much bigger than the fronts, but get a harder life if they are in a heavy vehicle. AFAIK they were the originals from the factory.

I do carry a spare set of front bearings with us just in case, & once in a while check for looseness, but haven't found any yet. At 229k with much of the past 26k on rough dusty roads & a few water crossings I should probably do so again now whilst I have access to a concrete floor under cover. Have just added that task to my 230k service.

Checking & re-packing is a bit time consuming, mucky, but not difficult. Buy some replacements plus inner seals & put a day aside for the job. After cleaning all the old grease off & eyeing the bearings up for any obvious damage, I check the cups with a fingernail. Replace if *any* ridge is felt. Replace seals anyway once the old ones are disturbed. Chances are the bearings will be fine & can be repacked & replaced. If so you have a set of spares for touring (but get a couple more seals). If not, you have what you need to finish the job.

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Thanks for the info Cuppa.

You fellas say you repack the bearings, but don't you have to remove the bearings to do that and aren't wheel bearings usually bloody hard to get off??? I've not looked at the Patrol bearings, but from the very little I've had experience with, I've had to whack new bearings on with a mallet in one case and in another we had to use an oxy to get some old ones off.

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Originally Posted by 10G

Thanks for the info Cuppa.

You fellas say you repack the bearings, but don't you have to remove the bearings to do that and aren't wheel bearings usually bloody hard to get off??? I've not looked at the Patrol bearings, but from the very little I've had experience with, I've had to whack new bearings on with a mallet in one case and in another we had to use an oxy to get some old ones off.

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When you repack the bearings you don't remove the 'cup', just the half with the rollers in it. No force required. Clean the cups in situ & then check. If OK just re-grease in situ.

You might find this video useful in regard to what to expect to find. GQ & GU hubs are basically the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lt5jaIMhROE Video shows changing bearings, but if just repacking no driving out of the cups is required. If you do need to change bearings they should drive out with a drift fairly easily. Trick is to have things solidly on a couple of pieces to hardwood or similar to avoid 'bounce' when using the mallet. (Actually a club hammer with a couple of kilos in it is good - decisive blows, not wet lettuce taps) - bearing cup will come out with two or three blows if you move around the cup with each blow. I use a brass drift - less risk of damage to the bearing housing. Make sure the end of the drift is nice & square to avoid slipping off the edge of the cup. Something which would help the bloke in the video ....... once an old 'cup' has been removed it makes the perfect driver to put the new one in as he does (after lightly starting it with the hammer)..... but before doing that cut a slot through the wall of the old cup with an angle grinder. Works just the same but but makes removal once the new cup is fully home far easier, without risk of damaging the new cup in the process. If you have the disc laid on hardwood blocks either on a good solid bench, or a concrete floor, it will make the job easier over all, but also makes it easy to know when the new cup is fully home. You'll hear the tone change when knocking it in & it is as far as it will go.

I made my own special tool to remove the bearing retainer. But after a couple of uses bought the proper thing - much better & cheap. eg. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hub-Adju...QAAOSwqr5duusm

The two little screws which hold the bearing retainer from unscrewing don't need overtightening, but I always use a bit of blue loctite threadlocker on them just to be sure.

A helper with clean hands to take photos at each stage of removal is handy, so you don't get your phone/camera covered in grease. Have plenty of rags handy & I like to wear some of those rubber gloves that supercheap, repco & the likes sell.

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

When you repack the bearings you don't remove the 'cup', just the half with the rollers in it. No force required. Clean the cups in situ & then check. If OK just re-grease in situ.

You might find this video useful in regard to what to expect to find. GQ & GU hubs are basically the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lt5jaIMhROE Video shows changing bearings, but if just repacking no driving out of the cups is required. If you do need to change bearings they should drive out with a drift fairly easily. Trick is to have things solidly on a couple of pieces to hardwood or similar to avoid 'bounce' when using the mallet. (Actually a club hammer with a couple of kilos in it is good - decisive blows, not wet lettuce taps) - bearing cup will come out with two or three blows if you move around the cup with each blow. I use a brass drift - less risk of damage to the bearing housing. Make sure the end of the drift is nice & square to avoid slipping off the edge of the cup. Something which would help the bloke in the video ....... once an old 'cup' has been removed it makes the perfect driver to put the new one in as he does (after lightly starting it with the hammer)..... but before doing that cut a slot through the wall of the old cup with an angle grinder. Works just the same but but makes removal once the new cup is fully home far easier, without risk of damaging the new cup in the process. If you have the disc laid on hardwood blocks either on a good solid bench, or a concrete floor, it will make the job easier over all, but also makes it easy to know when the new cup is fully home. You'll hear the tone change when knocking it in & it is as far as it will go.

I made my own special tool to remove the bearing retainer. But after a couple of uses bought the proper thing - much better & cheap. eg. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hub-Adju...QAAOSwqr5duusm

The two little screws which hold the bearing retainer from unscrewing don't need overtightening, but I always use a bit of blue loctite threadlocker on them just to be sure.

A helper with clean hands to take photos at each stage of removal is handy, so you don't get your phone/camera covered in grease. Have plenty of rags handy & I like to wear some of those rubber gloves that supercheap, repco & the likes sell.

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Ahhhh, a picture or video, is worth a thousand words. Thanks Cuppa.

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Originally Posted by 10G

Ahhhh, a picture or video, is worth a thousand words. Thanks Cuppa.

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You will need to buy new hub seals if you are going to repack the bearings, as the hub seal needs to be removed to get to the inner race.

Finished paid work for 2019 so jacked hers up ready for Santa and his mates to return to Christmas Hills in the wee morning hours.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...019/12/159.jpg
Hopefully they’ll get time to install the locker whilst we’re asleep, fingers crossed because I can’t be stuffed as I’m sure everyone else here over 40 feels the same :-)


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Today I adjusted the Male/female bracket that supports the right side barn door.
The Door was moving in its frame and the rubber was squeaking.
Another rattle down, a few to go

Started on the under dash wiring today, Started with this
Attachment 79819
Then right about now I realised my definition of refreshing was a fair way off what @MudRunnerTD calls it
[ATTACH=CONFIG]79820[/ATTACHAttachment 79822

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

Started on the under dash wiring today, Started with this

Then right about now I realised my definition of refreshing was a fair way off what @MudRunnerTD calls it

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Ya trying to give us nightmares?

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

Ya trying to give us nightmares?

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Its a mess and I did it all my self - now after numbering all the cables I have to trace them out and then reconnect in a tidier manner.

wow mate! thats insane lol. how many bloody additional devices do you have!!

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Originally Posted by rusty_nail

wow mate! thats insane lol. how many bloody additional devices do you have!!

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Dunno but the small pile of cables in the previous post were cables that were connected to the fuse box and not connected at the other end - no idea what was or wasn't going on in my head when I was generating this mess. There are still a dozen or more cables running up under the dash - a trouble shooting nightmare - will be glad when I have it tidy and able to know what goes where.

I know with what mine looks like after 10 years of owning it, Phil has had his for closer to 30 so I reckon if we work on pro-rata I'm not far behind you Phil!

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Originally Posted by Winnie

I know with what mine looks like after 10 years of owning it, Phil has had his for closer to 30 so I reckon if we work on pro-rata I'm not far behind you Phil!

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Nip it off now Chris as this is a total jungle right now. I reckon its at least 2 full days to rectify, then move down the back to tidy that up. Its going to be worth it, just impatient to get the barge onto the road. Waiting for the integrated I/c and the interchiller also, so reckon its a march completion 2020 - just to ensure I don't get tarred and feathered - its been 7 months off the road so far - totally over it, but a lot has happened - pretty pleased with where its heading. I bought mine new in July 1997, so we are looking at close to 23yrs of ownership and wiring abuse!!! The mother in law is down until Jan 4, then I have until Jan 16 to rip into things before heading back north. I should make a good dnet in it with the other things on the list - looking to plate out the chassis as well - bought the kits from PSR.

You are drawing a comprehensive wiring diagram ...... aren't you?

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Originally Posted by Cuppa

You are drawing a comprehensive wiring diagram ...... aren't you?

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You betcha! will get the drafty's at site to sort one out once I have it sketched up.

Bloody hell Phil. There’s more than two days of solid work in that wiring.


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Originally Posted by mudski

Bloody hell Phil. There’s more than two days of solid work in that wiring.


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hows merimbula ya bastard

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Originally Posted by rusty_nail

hows merimbula ya bastard

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Not there yet. We leave on the 5th for two weeks.


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Originally Posted by mudski

Bloody hell Phil. There’s more than two days of solid work in that wiring.


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I hope not. I am heading to jaycar in the morning to stock up on connectors then the wire tracing begins as soon as I get a leave pass to commence.

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

I hope not. I am heading to jaycar in the morning to stock up on connectors then the wire tracing begins as soon as I get a leave pass to commence.

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buy some 7 core 15amp trailer wire mate. it will help you with your looms a lot. Jaycar sell it in a roll.

Somewhat farked a brand new ARB bearing journal :-(
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...019/12/181.jpg
In my christmas holidays wisdom thought a 47mm socket punch could do the home press jobbie but found reckon she might squirt guppy farts even after a solid hours hand 200/400/600 linishing wanker attempts to rectify idiot scratches :-(


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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

buy some 7 core 15amp trailer wire mate. it will help you with your looms a lot. Jaycar sell it in a roll.

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Yeah that’s a great option. Then you have seven colours in one loom to play with. Although, I think Phil needs 300 core wire. Lol


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudski

Yeah that’s a great option. Then you have seven colours in one loom to play with. Although, I think Phil needs 300 core wire. Lol


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You guys are painting into something I am not - a creative auto elec!. Once I work out what I am doing I will see how if it can be made tidier. I do have about 6m of 20 core, but every cable is black, so you can probably guess what a cluster I would make of that. The 7 core might get a heads up - was down at Jaycar this morning and bought 200 of their smallest circular ring crimp fittings - just in case!

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Originally Posted by mudski

Not there yet. We leave on the 5th for two weeks.


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F U. I'm back at work on the 6th.


Enjoy mate...

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Originally Posted by MB

Somewhat farked a brand new ARB bearing journal :-(
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...019/12/181.jpg
In my christmas holidays wisdom thought a 47mm socket punch could do the home press jobbie but found reckon she might squirt guppy farts even after a solid hours hand 200/400/600 linishing wanker attempts to rectify idiot scratches :-(


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Do you make a woopies...

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

You guys are painting into something I am not - a creative auto elec!. Once I work out what I am doing I will see how if it can be made tidier. I do have about 6m of 20 core, but every cable is black, so you can probably guess what a cluster I would make of that. The 7 core might get a heads up - was down at Jaycar this morning and bought 200 of their smallest circular ring crimp fittings - just in case!

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All the colours can be positive mate. Use your multi core black as earth. All colours positive but allows you to run your switching looms with fuses and logic. If you need 2 runs of it then you have 14 wires, all positive, but only 2 of any colour. Just label the outer sheath as run 1 and run2 or a piece of tape around the end of one mate. The 15 amp will handle most of your need a with ease. Happy to come and give you a day Phil.

Made up some rubber cover thingos to cover up the gap between the inner wheel arch and chassis on the rear. Looks like there was supposed to be something there but nothing shows OEM in the parts program.
Attachment 79839
Attachment 79840

I also cut out some black corflute and tucked it in the small rear bard door window frame to keep the sun off the fridge. I have done both left and right windows with this stuff too.
Works well it does. I might even do the large barn too in the future...
Attachment 79841

And then gave the old GUrl a sponge bath in preparation for our trip.
Attachment 79843

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I've used the corflute stuff taped onto the rear window of our Patrol's canopy as a means of protecting it from stone damage when towing off road. It's good stuff. Have also used it underneath our fridges, sitting on the fridge slides, just for an additional bit of insulation. Our's is white on the side that shows & with pictures of Patrick Dodson on the side that doesn't. We were in Broome at the time of the last election!
:smileyvault-cute-bi

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

All the colours can be positive mate. Use your multi core black as earth. All colours positive but allows you to run your switching looms with fuses and logic. If you need 2 runs of it then you have 14 wires, all positive, but only 2 of any colour. Just label the outer sheath as run 1 and run2 or a piece of tape around the end of one mate. The 15 amp will handle most of your need a with ease. Happy to come and give you a day Phil.

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Thanks again Darren, that make sense, incredible how I cant join the dots at times. I think the cables as run will more or less remain, however a few, quite a few will be shortened and run in a more regulated fashion instead of spaghetti like. Tidied up with some corrugated hose and should come out ok. The runs to the back of the car are being rationalised - I am finding heaps of loose tails simply chopped off - bloody disgrace to be honest. I will give you a shout if I crap out for sure..
When is that shed going up by the way? The concrete will at least be well onto the way to 100% cure by then I guess.

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Originally Posted by mudski

Made up some rubber cover thingos to cover up the gap between the inner wheel arch and chassis on the rear. Looks like there was supposed to be something there but nothing shows OEM in the parts program.
Attachment 79839
Attachment 79840

I also cut out some black corflute and tucked it in the small rear bard door window frame to keep the sun off the fridge. I have done both left and right windows with this stuff too.
Works well it does. I might even do the large barn too in the future...
Attachment 79841

And then gave the old GUrl a sponge bath in preparation for our trip.
Attachment 79843

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Thats a really smart looking rig Mark, have a safe trip, hopefully free of too much 'steam'. I might try the corflute on mine also to shade the fridge - good simple idea. I have also closed up the rear wheel well with rubberm, but more to hide the belly tank fill pipe, can hardly tell it is there, need to do the other side next.

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

Thats a really smart looking rig Mark, have a safe trip, hopefully free of too much 'steam'.

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Thanks Phil.

Yeah she'll boil over without a doubt. Unless the weather decides to cool down. But Im out of ideas on the hows and why's of the kettle so I just drive it now.

I just need to figure out why the light bar has decided to constantly blow fuses now. Never did for 4 years. Now it will blow a fuse within minutes.

I spent the morning mounting the interchiller surge tank and pump, Final solution was simple enough but getting there was a pain. I will post the photos tomorrow - car back in the garage, was heading over to pay @MB a visit but the pool won out in the end - its a bit warm right now in Melb SE. Resuming with the wiring in the morning. On the hunt for the elusive a/c compressor clutch supply cable - seems to have evaporated under the bonnet - very annoying - hope it didn't get 'purged' last week.

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Originally Posted by MB

Somewhat farked a brand new ARB bearing journal :-(
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...019/12/181.jpg
In my christmas holidays wisdom thought a 47mm socket punch could do the home press jobbie but found reckon she might squirt guppy farts even after a solid hours hand 200/400/600 linishing wanker attempts to rectify idiot scratches :-(


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Get some Devcon steel putty. Fill that tiny pit in and sand it back and you wont even know its there. Or. Install a speedie sleeve and all you'll need to do it drill a hole where the air port is in the journal.

Cheers Mark Mate!
PeeBee Legend has kindly brought some 1/4” NPT taps around this morning for airline housing work and we’ve assessed that previous MB idiot damage will hopefully be ok with a wee bit more linishing dodgey hills shed style.
Off Forum too Mr Daz Legend and I kindly also discussed a worst case scenario of it simply running the compressor more often and or if a complete blowout back to a single spinner diff same same as her current OEM front differential.


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