I did think it’s time to upgrade to a lithium battery, but then realising I also need to upgrade my Ctek 250 dc-dc charger as well quickly put a stop to that thought.
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I did think it’s time to upgrade to a lithium battery, but then realising I also need to upgrade my Ctek 250 dc-dc charger as well quickly put a stop to that thought.
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I thought the same and also came up with the same result..Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/10/51.jpg
Gave the old GUrl a quick scrub before getting her dirty over a 4 day Fecking weekend starting this Friday at Enoch’s point on the Big River. Cannot fecking wait!
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Looking mint!
Thanks. Still not a bad duco after 22 years. I have found a little spot of rust, quite bad but small, hiding behind the snorkel, which would be snorkel and windscreen out job. Not really wanting to do that though.Quote:
Originally Posted by BrazilianY60
So after piss farting around using and putting up with the shitty rose joints on the extended sway bar links, that wear out almost instantly and require to be greased every time you hit the dirt, plus the grey area over their legality, I am making my own. Lol
Got some heavy steel tubing, cut to the length I need, drilled and tapped one end to M10x1.25 to hold onto a mini tie rod.
I just need to figure out whether to use 8.8 grade threaded rod for the top end or go the next tensile strength up. 10.2 I think it is.
10.2 is obviously stronger but has less give than 8.8, so it could potentially snap if flexed too much, but that’s what the mounting rubbers are for, to allow the rod to pivot in the mounting hole.
I’ll do a test run on the fronts. Then do the rears next if these work out.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/11/30.jpg
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Finally got around to finishing one link. I used 10.9 m10x1.5 all thread in the top.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/12/11.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/12/12.jpg
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So I have a weeks grace from hell, AKA work, I’m not going anywhere so I thought I’d pull the Patrol in the garage and do some maintenance and some preventative maintenance. A can of worms I have opened….
There more on this list also.
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I removed the rear tail shaft as the yoke on the gearbox is worn out.
The cup on the uni can be inserted by hand, no force needed at all. Not good.
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Problem here. Nissan don’t sell this part, nor does Hardy Spicer and Drivetech, and I’m not keen on forking out a small fortune for a complete second half tail shaft.
So not sure what to do here. I’ll wait until I’m back at work and send the old one off to Hardy Spicer to see if they can match it up.
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Tie rod and drag link end boots need to be replaced.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/12/27.jpg
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And I’ve had a small issue for a while where I couldn’t pump up the tyres. For some reason any air chuck I used would not pump air into them.
Long story short Darren last year suggested maybe wind out the valves a little. This worked. So every time I had to put air in the tyres I had to loosen the inserts a little.
So I was guessing the seal on the valve insert was worn out from using a tyre deflator many times over.
So I finally changed them out. One insert was actually broken.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/12/30.jpg
So we’ll see if new inserts help.
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The Patrol is now up on blocks…
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/12/31.jpg
Rear tail shaft out, front will be out tomorrow, tie rod off, drag link off and the sway bar links removed.
It seems everything I touch needs to be replaced.
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So it's going to handle as good as it looks once you're done with it...
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Yeah it is due for new shocks soon I reckon but I’ll have to save a bit for them.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
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Hmm.
Front tail shaft has seen better days. The uni’s feel fine, considering they have never been changed, but the slip joint has a lot of play in it. Plus the grease boot is non existent.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/12/77.jpg
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Swapped out the steel water return line for the turbo to silicone hose with a thermal shield.
The steel line was running within millimeters of the exhaust manifold therefore pumping screaming hot water back into the stat housing.
So the new line is rerouted away from the exhaust manifold.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2024/03/7.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2024/03/8.jpg
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I’ve also changed the radiator cap from a .8 bar cap to a 1.1 bar cap.
Reason behind this is these TD’s like to run a wee bit warm. Having a higher pressure in the cooling system raises ;) the boiling point so we’ll see how it goes.
Last trip was good, sat mostly on 90-95c, but I was travelling in convoy with my daughter who was towing a horse float, so we were only doing around 90kph.
On the way home however, I was sitting between 100-120kph and the water temps sat at 105-110c. That was at 40plus degree outside temps.
Still under factory spec and I know even at 110c the water won’t be at boiling point due to being pressurised. 118c is boiling point but I want to give the TD a bit more wiggle room with the temps.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2024/03/9.jpg
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Higher pressure RAISES the boiling point.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Yep, had a brain fart moment. RAISES is what i actually meant....Quote:
Originally Posted by Brissieboy
So I decided to dump the Propylene glycol coolant I put in and go back to ethylene glycol.
I did the usual remove the bung from the radiator flush it out, I also took the heater hose off the fitting on top of the engine and flush through there as well.
Whilst flushing it out coolant was coming out of the stat housing port where the heater hose connects to and was pouring onto the alternator before dropping to the ground.
Thought nothing of it, when I was done I hosed the entire area out.
I then noticed to what I thought it was smoke coming from the alternator. I could hear a faint sizzling sound also. The smoke had no odour apart from the slightest smell of coolant, but that could have been remnants of the washed off coolant. The smoke to me actually looked like vapour though.
Not sure on what was going on I disconnected the battery and all was good. Reconnecting the battery it came back.
So I started the Patrol up and ran it for a good ten minutes. As usual, upon start up for the first few minutes the alternator charged at 12v, then it kicks in and charges per normal, not sure why but it’s always done this.
I turned off the motor and all is good. No sizzling sound, no smoke/ vapour.
My thought is maybe a chemical reaction from the coolant and components inside the alternator???? But when 12v is cut off nothing happened. So maybe not.
If I knew how to upload a video on YouTube I would but tried to work that out and my head just hurt. lol
Any suggestions on what had just happened? More so. Why?
Cheers
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Coolant is very bad for anything electrical, I would pull the alternator out and give it a thorough clean, hit it with pressure cleaner.
Can't help on your issues, but go to your video select share and pick YouTube.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Stuffed if I know. That option for YT I don't have on my phone.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
I think I worked out the YouTubey thing
https://youtu.be/DwyVrEy3loI?feature=shared
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Yeah I drowned the thing with hose. Ran the engine for a good 10 minutes and no vaping after that. It seems to be charging too. Hopefully all is good. I left the battery disconnected last night though just in case.Quote:
Originally Posted by TPC
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So I have decided to make my own dual Jerry can holder for the rear bar. But. Have the holder running front to back rather than the usual left to right.
This way the swing away bar is not too long and besides it will hit my spare wheel carrier anyway.
I’m not the best welder so lots of welding and grinding going on. lol.
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So making the carrier this way does present some issues.
With 40L of fluid hanging off this bar.the holders will want to pull away from the bar. So there will be some bracing going on to strengthen it all up.
This as far as I have gone today with it…
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Maybe thinking of a couple of angled RHS stays (L/R), running from near the top AFT sector of jerry carrier boxes down to the swing arm and even distributing the load along the back of boxes with RHS or angle to secure the stays to as well. Lot hanging out back.
100% agree, those boxes are going to bend within 50m of filling with the thin steel sheet and 40kgs hanging off them. I understand why you have gone this way however the loads into the arm and then the bearing are far greater than a flatter side by side config. Your latch is going to take a pounding if you dont have some sort of load bearing guide assy to take the vertical and twisting load - you dont want the catch to do this. I would be conceptually mimicking a Kaymar style to be honest ( support guide bracket to take the vertical and to line up the carrier with the clamp.), but even then they rarely if ever built swing aways with the jerry cans in that config, and their bearing system is a bush rather than a roller bearing, which is set up for higher compressive loads.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Yep. Bracing the back was always on the plans. How? I have not yet decided. I will lower where the holders are welded to the swing away, as much as i can so there less on top.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Just thinking if using T section steel will be better for vertical support over using say 3mm x 25mm square tube, or even 25x50mm RHS.
Maybe to have a length of 25x50 RHS running left to right across the top of both holders, as John suggested, then run a dead vertical brace from that down to the swing away and also from the top, on a angle down to the back of the swing away. Not sure yet.
If all this doesn't work its no big deal, i enjoy working with steel so I'll just start again if i need too.
Just had a thought.
If I were to make the rear bracing similar to the bracing design for the spare wheel carrier, which takes a similar if not heavier load it should work.
Attachment 88224
I finally finished the dual carrier. I don’t think I’ll have issues. The rear bracing is wee heavy but we’ll see in two weeks when I head up to QLD then across into Innamincka and then south.
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...11e1a66165.jpg
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Looks great mate, good use of the space.
Water or fuel? Or anything?
Rear bracing looks strong as, see how the boxes can handle the flex _ user trial coming up.
Yeah im happy with the outcome. Will be used for water mainly, one for drinking and one for washing i guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10G
Yes im a bit nervous for the test to be honest but, i enjoyed mucking around an making it. So if it fails the test. No big deal to me. I'll just think of something else to make. Or how to make it again but better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Is it just me? Before any trip I decide to strip the Patrol down and do work to it!
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I have a Super bright light bar from LedLightco, and my existing wiring for the old light bar needs to be upgraded from 4mm to 6mm.
Plus I ordered another rear light from them as well to replace me old Chyna one that’s crap.
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Put some new H4’s in. Hopefully better than the candles I had burning before.
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Don't mess about. Get some Stedi LED Copperheads. Best upgrade I did to my headlights! [emoji108]Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
They plug straight in, no modifications.
How interesting! My GU has a small length of rubber hose stuck between the rearview mirror and the windshield. I thought it was some bush fix done by the previous owner, possibly to keep it from rattling, so I left it alone. On this picture, yours seems to have it as well. Maybe Nissan made that bush fix themselves straight from Japan?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
:animierte-sm
I thought about that but i am concerned about them being way to bright for oncoming traffic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cremulator
Year ago i had custom made some headlights with projector beams in them with LED globes They were amazing at night, but were illegal and at the time i was getting the Patrol engineered, so i removed them and sold them. In hindsight i probably should have just kept them.
Uhm... Where is this rubber hose?Quote:
Originally Posted by BrazilianY60
I had the same concerns, but I have been running them for two years now and not one on coming car has flashed me.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
They give you Euro-car-like clear white light. Much safer.