Where can I get one of those catch can filters from mate, mine is getting pretty sadQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Where can I get one of those catch can filters from mate, mine is getting pretty sadQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Western Filters eBay store is the cheapest. Don’t get the stainless washable type. They don’t catch the oil very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty_nail
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I have a mtr of 75mm flexi stainless if you need it for your exhaustQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
it will only be thrown out soon
Im good thanks John. If I need any exhaust parts I just get them off the shelf at work.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
@mudski thought you may have increased the strength of the brkt by welding some increased thickness plate on the non critical face of them. Just a thought mate
Yeah time just isnt on my side. So I just mig'd it up. I have made a template on cardboard so I will make a better one later. I need to work out why the brackets have broke in the first place. I don't think the rear bracket which has broken in two spots is actually in the right position. Just putting undue stress on itself.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Couple of weeks back had brkt failure on Berklee 3" sys (2nd section), failed at right angle bend of section fixing brkt as excessive induced stress resulting from hole out of alignment with G/Box mount point. Second time failure and Berklee have just sent me new section under warranty (sys bought over two yrs ago now). Pretty good of them (new design), still in bubble wrap, I actually made up new angle intermediate piece with an elongated hole to ensure alignment. Working well. Only need dump pipe and tail pipe section and would have 2nd complete sys.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Installed a 22" light bar I had sitting around to the roof, installed a deep cycle Repco 102AH battery, it was on special for $199, and is just a rebranded century battery. The Aussie made one.
I just can't justify the price of the optimas etc for his much I use them so the century/Repco one will just have to do for now.
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Is this what I'm looking for mate?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F273767023797
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Thats it.Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty_nail
You can wash out the old one too. Wash it in Petrol, then degreaser, then hot soapy water and let it dry.
Done that but it's starting to frayQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Ok might be passed its use by then....Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty_nail
It's probably 4-5 years old lolQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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put some paperwork on the bonnet
Post me the template and Ill make you a bracket that wont break.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I have a folder and drill press, give me something to do, lol
If you're looking for something to do, I'm after a ladder for the small rear door of my Y61.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Not that I couldnt make one but Id be on my feet for too long,Quote:
Originally Posted by 10G
the bracket I can sit on my stool and fashion it sitting down.
thanks for the offer
For the price I paid you would have brought one as well, not saying they are the best battery I'dQuote:
Originally Posted by rusty_nail
buy lithion if they were cheaper, best price i saw was $600, light weight last maybe 10yrs or more.
it was one of my better buys, good having friends in the 4x4 industry
Lots of wd40 and TLC might get it going:)
Yeah maybe better off just replacing it I think! Would take a month of sundays and for an old low mount not worth the effort.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Time for a new high mount build!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
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High mount = hard core = not me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Low mount for me even if that needed these days.:)
I agree, that all looks solid, good soaking wire brush, bit of emery, free everything up, light grease, repack gearbox, bet it works. I have rebuilt my brothers winch 4 times after he said it was dead, runs every time after its given some love.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
To make sure that there was no more water ingress, I used silicon to build a good seal. I then placed a layer of oiled cling film over the silicon and and put the end covers on loosely. When the silicon was set I peeled off the film and rebuilt the winch. It has been submerged a few times and has not let a drop of moisture in.
Yeah gearbox is a mess but nothing wrong with it. Easily clean that out and re-grease.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
How would you tackle the motor? I've never fixed/rebuilt an electric motor.
I think you will find the surface rust just comes off with CRC or degreaser, Wash it off with water, then dry it out - if you leave it in the sun for a day or see if your oven can sit around 40 degC put it in there for an hour to drive the moisture out, I use a hot air gun and heat the armature - the cntral spinning bit up until it is warm to touch, do the same on the housing or body but be careful you dont heat it so far that the lacquer starts to degrade. Free up the brushes and then let it sit under cover for a little while, reassenble, should be fine. Look p on the nett for the process to electrically check a 12V winch motor using jumper leads to prove it actually rotates.
I found this guy yesterday. Really informative.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zzS...index=4&t=555s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zzS...index=4&t=555s
Id be thinking of used some air to pressurize the winch before and water crossingsQuote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
some use an air hor compressor and a needle valve to limit the amout of air you use.
Youll use very little pressure for it maybe 5psi tops, worth a thought I recond.
Yeah thats a good idea but a bit over technical for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Nah easy to set up really not hard at all.
Or pay $3000 for a new winch lol
$3000 !?Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Some rally good winches can be had for under $1000. Runva & Carbon to name a few.
@Hodge only paid $276 with a discount they had and they threw in a 6 pack cooler
Think I did ok,?
Finally got around to permanently mount the solar controller and after a lot of stuffing around looking for a spot I settled on this spot , made a bracket / base plate out of some steel and bolted it to an existing bracket that holds a relay (two bolts) .
Can only get to the two outside fixing points on the controller but it will end up with two small bolts and a small dob of silicone holding it in place .
Attachment 78628Attachment 78629
Small job, big result. I finally did the barn door extension for the left side.
Any pics ? Something I definitely need to do .Quote:
Originally Posted by Mc4by
I will put one up tomorrow morning. Bit dark right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
Total time 5 minutes.
That's a Jamie Oliver 5 minutes. Doesn't include finding the grinder and socket.
Opens the left side up a bit more.Quote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
Attachment 78635
Remove the small catch and replace with the longer one.
Attachment 78636
I'm still procrastinating as to where to mount my controller, the same Victron unit. I considered mounting it in that same spot, but was a bit worried about the heat it generates, and the lack of quick access should I need to get to it fast. Maybe I worry too much, but mounting it on my cargo barrier is my preferred option at the moment.Quote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mc4by
Should add a small ram for the win.Quote:
Originally Posted by GQtdauto
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...019/05/373.jpg
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I had heard about this. Looks useful for angled parking.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
What was the length of the strut?