So all the winch elecy points are cleaned, sealed and clean covered.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/08/20.jpg
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So all the winch elecy points are cleaned, sealed and clean covered.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/08/20.jpg
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Now I keep looking at my air box. It’s shit. I need to swap it out for a flat panel style box
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2023/08/4.jpg
This is my industry. Filtration, but, I’ve ignored the obvious for too long. Pod filters are shit. I really need to get rid of it. Time to investigate.
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Mark, do the numbers on the airflow, air to cloth ratio recommended for the style of driving and the anticipated dust load - this will lead you to what type/style/size of filter is required. This is air filtration 101 stuff. So often i see these you beaut air filters stuffed into a corner where they will fit without any regards to the engineering - and by that i am talking about pressure drop across the filter, particulate migration through the filter media, service intervals and serviceability - bearing in mind this is a whole minefield on its own - just how particulate is released to a satisfactory level one it is embedded in either a cloth or foam element is beyond me.
Flat pack filters may be cheap and convenient but they have limited filtration area. Looking at the filter condition in the photo suggests your filter is way past its servicable limits, so acknowledging your area of expertise I can see some areas look at. I run a filter on my chev that has been engineered - I did the numbers, and its based around face velocity and volumetric flow against the media being used - took me a couple of weeks to get the info from the filter manufacturer's - they have it, just prefer to catalogue engineer a solution to the mug punter aligned with what is the largest you can fit and what fits within the product catalogue. I have been in the industrial air filtration and baghouse design arena for 25 yrs, so know how to size and select a filter - unfortunately cars dont have the necessary space to accomodate the air/cloth ratios, so it comes down to frequency of service, which is easy to neglect. Hope this helps.
Yep. I’ve done the numbers and what I should be fitting with the amount of air flow my TD produces, I’d have to mount the air box externally. There will be an amount of compromise.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Flat panel filters aren’t the best, I know this. Cylindrical filtration is better for area coverage. But this K&N setup I have is no good for me because the Patrol sits unused for most of the year and the oil in the element ends up at the lowest part of the element rendering most of the filter dry and useless.
That filter Phil is actually not that dirty. I run a very fine mesh sock over the filter element for that added protection. Which helps a great deal.
I need to get rid of the aux battery to give me more room to play with. So baby steps. Convince the minister of war and finance that a lithium battery is needed, I then can put this in the cab somewhere, then try to convince her that the air box needs to go for something better. But funds are not as free as they used to be…
Food for thought.
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I finally cleaned up all the winch power lead contacts and got dust boots and covered them in di-electric grease.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2023/08/5.jpg
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Good news all round Mark, and understand the real estate is always the problem. I filled whatever void I had with the filter box that aligned with the filtration area required and it was a bum in a bucket installation, far too tight for normal daily access and also a pain for the A/C access off the compressor. I have done a bit of rationalisation with the latest round and have the same box, but better clearance - just. The external 'dirt load' on your pre-filter sock will actually help you as its a common phase during filter break-in to develop that 'layer' - seems counter intuitive in some regards but its actually an additional filtration layer. The only time it becomes a real issue is in high moisture environments or when sucking in foggy air as it can soften and liquidise the dirt into a mud/paint and clog the filter weave very quickly - again there are very few ways around this beside pre-conditioning the air before it hits the filter material, such as temperature and moisture removal - not happening on a car. Maybe the strategy is to simply swap out the elements more frequently, and stay with the smaller footprint?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
So the Patrol has been parked in the garage for the last two weeks. I go to start it yesterday and nothing, not even a light on the dash came up, like I had not connected the battery. I check that, yep its connected. I grab the DMM and test it. 1 Volt!. Feck! I chuck the Ctek MXS 10 charger and nup, she won't even fire up. Hmm, so I grab my 30 year old 8amp charger and use this until some voltage was getting in, then I quickly switch over to the Ctek before the volts drop again to low for the Ctek to work. Got it going.
The Ctek has been on recond mode since around 2'ish yesterday and I check at 6am this morning and its still charging and hasn't reached the trickle stage yet.
So before I have to go get a new battery, I need to find what is draining the battery so fast.
The starter motor was playing up for a bit there, when my daughter was driving the Patrol she got caught out a few times with the Patrol not wanting to start, even when warm, in the end the Patrol would not start at all so I tapped the solenoid with a hammer and its been good ever since.
Could a sticking solenoid drain power when switched off?
The solenoid is just a coil with a sliding spool, when you hit the solenoid with the hammer you dislodge the interface between the spool and the coil, so unless the power is left on, which means you have a 'held start function' on the ign switch I cant see it related to be honest. Significant voltage drop though, 1 V. I killed a battery crossing the Simpson with a Finch Fridge, brand new, but the Finch has no thermostat on 12V, I arrived back in melb with a new Century wet cell at 2V - battery rooted, no warranty - would not think its a catastrophic all cell failure - look at the aux items connected I reckon.
If all the aux stuff is ok, then a common component failure is the alternator regulator diodes.
I have no Aux items to the main battery so I'm sweet there.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Can I test the alternator for that? Or if I run a test, like you mentioned a few weeks ago to me, and unplug the alternator and see if anything changes?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Edit : Just googled it. Lol
Can a bad diode in an alternator drain a battery?
A bad diode in the rectifier can allow current to pass the wrong direction through the circuit, even when the engine is no longer running. It's like the tap on a water jug that has a constant trickle, eventually depleting the resource it holds inside. It's called a parasitic draw or drain.
Do not run the engine with the alternator disconnected. I destroyed one once, doing just that. With the multimeter connected in series with the negative to earth (do it on the 10 amp setting), there should be a quick spike in parasitic draw, for the clock and sound system, etc, then should drop to bugger all. If it is above the small milliamp range, then try pulling fuses and relays, before disconnecting the alternator.
Hmm, that just went over my head like a low flying duck. :icon_bonk: I'll YouTube it!Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Yeah I had a bad alternator that had parasitic draw was a PITA. . . When you say don't run motor with alternator discontented Muddy do you mean unplugged but still with belts attached or other way round, and why does this bugger them?? . . .
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Unplugged but belt on. A very long time ago (decades) I think had the main output disconnected and started the engine. It blew the regulator by the time I got out of the cab and realised my mistake (maybe 30 seconds).Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
@mudnut ;
I think I’ve got it set up right.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...323103d8e1.jpg
And after a few minutes it dropped
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...78f7bd9a83.jpg
I noticed even opening the door on the car, even without the interior light on the reading goes up from .08 to .10
From what I’ve read that is normal.
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Removed every fuse. The only fuse that mad the dmm move was the air bag fuse. From .10 to .09.
Opening the door read more.
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Not a collapsed cell in battery?
Maybe put it on chg over night and then have battery joint do a load test.
The reading is a little on the high side, but a fully charged battery should handle it overnight.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I would expect a collapsed cell would be in the order of 2.2V drop not 11V.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
So I have found the culprit, but not sure how to fix it.
This first pic looks of the dmm you can see the circuit breaker is off.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/08/13.jpg
This breaker is fed from the main battery and goes to a fuse block, this fuse block feeds power to each relay, Oem and aftermarket in the original relay housing.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/08/14.jpg
Probably 10 years ago I modified the relay box to house all the added relays that were strewn all through the engine bay. It has worked really well.
This is what happens when i activate the breaker.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/08/15.jpg
I tracked it down to fuse number 4, which feeds the relay for the spot lights.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/08/16.jpg
I remove the fuse, the reading drops. I put the fuse back in and remove the relay. Nothing. It stays the same!
Why?
This is about as far as my lecky knowledge goes with fault finding.
Any ideas for what to do next?
I removed every relay also with no change.
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The battery was on a recond charge for 24hours prior. It brought the battery back from the dead, I didn't load test it though last night, my brain was cooked just finding the issue, I will test it tonight, and try to figure out where to look now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
I did put new Narva push button dash switches in maybe 18 months ago, for the light bar and spotties, I might just unplug the switch to see what happens there I suppose.
Shite! Just did that last week flushing the GQ cooling system before finishing fixing/cleaning/re-wrapping my engine bay left side harness... didn't notice anything going crazy or smoky after that but you got me worried...Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Are your spotties after market?
Could remove battery, chg it overnight and leave it at float (chg) voltage to see how she holds SOC. Still do load test.
Yes they are mate. I might disconnect the spotties and see what happens...Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Yeah I will be doing that for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Hmm seems my forgetting somethings is biting me in the ass.
Fuse 4 in my fuse block is no longer linked to relay 4 in the relay block. I hadn’t changed the labelling from when I worked on it last. Hence my issues when removing the relay nothing changed. Duh!!!
Anyhow.
I traced the wire back from the fuse box and it’s going to the VRS remote system for the winch.
Pulled the wiring through, got to the remote signal box, turned it upside down and I heard something lose inside the box. Like a stone was rattling around in it. I opened it up and a little eleccy thing dropped out.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/08/18.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/08/19.jpg
I’m
Going to assume for now this is the root of the evil. I’ll order another control box and hope it changes things.
Then onto the next thing. Fix the f*%king wiring. Lol
It’s a mess!
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Sounds like a senior's moment with the #4 stuff [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]
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Definitely is mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
BTW, those sway bar links we spoke about. Won't work for me, on the Patrol a Part website it says if you have drop boxes they won't work. so no go for me.
That blue thing that dropped is a resistor.
Good find, Mudski. Electricity is a myth. Everything runs on magic smoke, and it looks like the smoke has escaped from the system.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Thanks to you mate. If you never mentioned about chasing a parasitic draw earlier on I would have just replaced the battery assuming it was a dud.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Also Im not sure how, but the battery was drained to 1V. I managed to get the smart charger to do a recond charge, took over 24hours to do so, I left the battery for another 24hours, the voltage dropped to 12.8v, I did a load test and it passed with flying colours. I serious thought I have killed this battery.
I do hope what i found is the cause.
I've also order a new fuse block to replace the shitty block i have with the blade terminals, to a screw terminal type. Much betterer!
Attachment 87219
I'll also re label them all so they are right! Lol
Then onto finding a suitable replacement to the crap rose joint style sway bar links. I'm sick of greasing them after everytime i take the patrol on dirt, and they flog out so quickly too.
Oh and I might remove the starter and clean the solenoid up too. Might. Thats a big pain in the ass off a job...
Mark, if you have not already purchased that fuse block, have a look at blue seas - they sell units with LED indicators of a blown fuse and are great - instant location of the blown circuit. They work with the wire or resettable fuses as well. If not Blue Seas there are other knock off brands on ebay.
Thats the brand I have bought Phill. Not buying Chinese knockoff again. Nothing but shit they are. Lesson learned. You get what you pay for...Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Did you buy the model with the blown fuse indictor LED?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
It was never mentioned it had that from where I bought it. If it does, yay for me, if not, meh! The shape of the housing is more what I wanted, long and narrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/08/21.jpg
Success!!!
Now to wait for the fuse box to arrive, fix that shiz up then sort the sway bar links.
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@mudnut ;
Your a eleccy nut mate. All is wrong with old unit mate is the resistor. I’m throwing this out. Do you want it? I’m happy to post it to you mate. If you fix it, win! Wireless winch controls for the price of a resistor.
If not I’ll bin it. Just seems so little that’s broke. Just beyond my shaky hands with a soldering iron.
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That resister is worth 10 cents. Have go at fixing it and keep it as a spare.
Yeah I thought about it, but i know I'll probably never get around to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
So I took the battery cell caps off last week to check the cell levels on the deep cycle aux battery, put it on a float charge.
On Saturday I decided to take the Patrol for a spin, checked everything under the bonnet for tools etc. Nope nothing, closed the bonnet and took off.
I came home and parked it back in the garage, put the bonnet up and instantly saw I had left the caps off the battery! Wtf! Somehow all but two caps were still sitting on the battery. But now I am missing two.
Trying to work out what threat they are I finally worked out they are m14 x 1.25.
How did you work that out you say? Like this!
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/08/29.jpg
They fit perfectly. Now to find some plastic plugs with the same thread.
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