All Things Chev

Have removed now the stock PS coolers and stock lines that were in my way for new oil coolers. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/11/36.jpg The new Davies Craig Hydro Cool for PS cooler replace/relocate has fitted in behind the winch beautifully. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/11/37.jpg Best part has being able to use both of the original PS cooler brackets with only a bit of bending work needed. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/11/38.jpg Did have to make a quick third bracket to support the underside though. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/11/39.jpg All clear on both sides of the truck now to get back onto the 6.5L twin oil cooler project before summer hits! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/11/40.jpg http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/11/41.jpg


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In the spirit of Christmas spending have today sent to QLD my VIN & Rego & M/C details for certified registered production start on a ‘Blitz’ new GU bonnet. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/11/243.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/11/244.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/11/245.jpg They are kindly including in delivery the front scoop cut out piece so I can play around with hinging and a decent choke type cable for deeper river crossings in theory :-) !


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Why do they need your rego number? Can understand vin.

Unsure old mate, can only imagine it gets listed on their paperwork handover for me to carry I believe said?


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So they can supply you with a recordable certificate.

Is this for mod registration in the various states or is the bonnet design 'approved' ? I will ask them tomorrow when I call about one for mine if you don't have the answer

@poindexter might be interested it this also as it looks like you get a bit more engine clearance also?

Again unsure good blokes, now starting to worry a little:-(
Wendy there has been fantastic over the last few months and kindly refused multiple times my reshaping custom requests. If not kept standard mould design they were breaking their current structural integrity design as ADR tested/certified I do believe?


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It will be fine, you just not be able to drive on the road with it!!! Only jokin'

At least it is made of Fibreglass-ish, let’s see who pops the Mansfield Candy Cars scales first old mate ;-) Only jokin’ :-) !!!


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Do those clowns put vehicles on the scales as well? If so I definitely will be steering clear

OK, rang supplier and bonnets are ADR approved in all states and territories of Australia. VIN and reg required for certificate as Nissannewby stated last night, no bonnet avail for GQ but can be done. A single mould would cost 4k but if an order is placed for 5 bonnets cost reduces to circ 1k plus shipping. They need a GQ bonnet for a mould. This new bonnet would also be fully adr compliant. I might go this way, will appraise on the effect MB gets out of his. Mu bonnet gills are yet to be really proven as the vehicle overheated last weekend due to a faulty viscous coupling and shroud design deficiency due to the change in fan blade installed after my exploding fan blade on trip previous to this.

The bonnet scoop from Cross country also arrived with a certificate . Which is now laminated and sitting in the car .


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I was quite impressed with the shipping charge being only $136 QLD <> VIC , $0.08pkm is pretty fair I reckon for a big awkward bonnet!


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Sorry MB I haven't been keeping up, but what are you hoping to gain from this flash looking bonnet?

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Bigger under bonnet air space mate for the Chev’s summer heat and looking to direct some flow onto multiple alternators. The 170amp pimped up GQ single alt spasmodically let me down in the hills last weekend. Looking to go say 2x 120amp jobbies squeezed under there is the theory:-)


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Hey @MB, was stuffing around under the bonnet again today after resurrecting the difflock compressor assy and started into the endless air project to fit the pump. Anyway, after a bit of heartache, decided to go the path of running a jack shaft and driving the compressor similar to how you are thinking of doing your alternators. Couple of differenAttachment 73926Attachment 73927Attachment 73928Attachment 73926Attachment 73927Attachment 73928t versions later believe I have a winner and brackets are all on top of the engine instead of under it, so a bonus. Photos show concept. Bonnet shuts without a problem. Sure its tight but it will work well.

Ripper mate!! Will have to get back to you bro, weather hatches need battening down here :-)


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by MB

Ripper mate!! Will have to get back to you bro, weather hatches need battening down here :-)


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Sunny and 26 over here!

Back on deck for now mate, apologies!
I’ve always been worried about bearing mods added, how does us do for longevity?



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Not a problem, keep them lubricated and make sure they are set up 'aligned' and won't have an issue. The units i am looking at at are 'brown dog' PA204 housings and 3/4" self aligning bearings. Bearing cost $6 each, so you an carry a couple of spares as well. You want bearings, not bushes as the speeds will be too high. The UC204 bearing is a ball race and fitted with seals will be fine. My assy will have a belt that slips on and off as the endless air does not need to be used all the time. I still have the ARB difflock compressor for the difflocks, and endless air for tyres and tools.

Happy Days Mate :-) !


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What happened to the alternator @MB


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My current setup demanded too much of it mate :-( The Thursday night coming down Dingo Hill it decided to stop pushing out any more than 12.1/2ish volts. Shut everything off and tip toed down to camp on low beam lights only. Magically it came back to life Sunday morning after idling for a few minutes. Phil had kindly topped up all my batteries to 100% all day Saturday jumped off his truck and monster solar panels.


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Originally Posted by MB

My current setup demanded too much of it mate :-( The Thursday night coming down Dingo Hill it decided to stop pushing out any more than 12.1/2ish volts. Shut everything off and tip toed down to camp on low beam lights only. Magically it came back to life Sunday morning after idling for a few minutes. Phil had kindly topped up all my batteries to 100% all day Saturday jumped off his truck and monster solar panels.


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Have you totalled all your current loads with everything going? Bear in mind most automotive alternators are rated at a 5% duty cycle, that is max nameplate current for 5% - primarily aimed at fast input after starting into the start battery. Your 170amp unit is likely the same. I suspect you may be looking at an entirely different beast to the run of the mill units.

Check out this link to Unipower. The Jumbo is interesting and these are 100% duty cycle rated. I had one for a while then sold it as was not using it.

http://www.unipower.co.za/spec-sheet...s-download.pdf

They are dear, but if you dont want the 240V or the welded capacity I am sure you could buy just the alternator. Take note though of the HP required to run it. Mine had double 'A' section and they needed to be tight as when the alternator is generating the 200amps + the belts know it.

Thanks Phil, looks like a beast of an alternator mate, will have to check it out at work one day soon on the bigger screen, Cheers!


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More or less sorted out the config for the endless air compressor. Mounted the baseplate across the inlet manifold valley, then configured the bearings, shaft and finally the pivot mount for the compressor itself. Off to Total Tools for belts early next week then weld it up, and start the config of the air receiver tankAttachment 73963Attachment 73964Attachment 73965 assy - no idea where that is going to fit!

OK, finished the endless air compressor instal today - what a journey. I will work on fine-tuning the front belt alignment, but its all in and pumping air out the discharge port. I have the air receiver and manifold block, so all thats needed is to sort out where the tank will go - probably going to sort out the Brown Davis belly tank first, then see what space is left - getting a bit crowdeAttachment 74046Attachment 74045d under the vehicle. With bonnet closed the pulley just touches the bonnet vent, so a couple of mm taken off locally with the dremel and happy days. Very tight installation, mount bracket is made in hell and took approx 20 hrs of design then I reckon 40 hrs to manufacture as everything had to be put in place then measured, taken off, trial fitted, changed where needed x 50, frustrating but a good result.

@MB, what did you end up running for your 'high temp hose' between the air compressor and tank? Also how long was the hose approx - I am reading 2m minimun/

Original installation had the ARB standard flexy braided rubber hose (approximately 0.5m) connected to the little locker tank and not the compressor as they were too far apart. All I ended up doing was swapping the braided rubber back to compressor side where the heat is and upgraded all other plastic lines to a chunkier PP I think it is. The two blowouts I experienced before were both within 100-150mm from compressor and on the thinner harder plastic Airbag Man lines installed. All seems fine now after last trips running compressor flat out, fingers crossed!


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Yeah, I've had one blowout so far... about 3 inches from the Compressor.
Mine has a joiner about 2 feet from the Compressor and since that blowout I carry a spare hose (that thin hard placcy shit) made up.
I suspect the joiner is there 'cause the prev owner had blowout issues but he used the Air heaps more than me as it was a true work ute for him.
If it blows on a regular basis I'll change to better hose as well, just too lazy at the moment

Thanks Guys, I will mount the tank then decide which way I go. Air on Board sell 750mm and 1500mm braided outer high temp rubber hoses but they are dear, $50 - 80 each, plus they also sell a non return valve kit with the hose as this is required to limit back pressure on the compressor. Anyway, just somethiong else to think about on the never ending journey of getting the truck set up.

FWIW just scribbled out a mud map of my current air system reworks still underway. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...017/12/127.jpg
The water separator/filter you kindly assisted with Phil is essential IMHO. All points on the map coloured ‘red’ are still needing upgrades. Previously running air without filtration has caused corrosion on both the inside of the crappy ARB locker tank and my silly purchase of a ‘steel’ under tray chassis tank. Rust proof tanks will be required one day and further line upgrades needed too in ‘red’ also. Thinking about adding in some isolation taps around the truck too just in case. Tyre valves are needed too near each air bag in case I may need to manually pump up off another convoy member if the system ever goes down completely.


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Ah, looks like about as complicated as you can make it - excellent stuff!!!! Heaps of functionality and versatility though. Like the idea of the redundancy point regards emergency pump up by others.

Ah, looks like about as complicated as you can make it - excellent stuff!!!! Heaps of functionality and versatility though. Like the idea of the redundancy point regards emergency pump up by others. Anything downstream of the reservoir can be 'cheapish' as long as it handles the pressure. temp in not a factor after the receiver. On your spare port marked 'external air port' I would look at a dump valve, so at the end of the day you can get rid of any moisture that has accumulated in the tank downstream of the water seperator and clear the lines totally for extreme cold weather stuff.Air On Board have a cheap dump valve circa $15 from memory that would do the trick, see here

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Drain-va...YAAOSwrfVZUxz5

Sweet thanks mate! Yeah the 20L tank does already have a drain/dump valve in the lowest part. Have been meaning to add a full dump lever type valve on the spare external side port for tyre bead blasting. Currently it’s just an ARB push in jobbie that still restricts air dump somewhat and also sh1ts me that only ARB air hose can be used! So...my idea is for a lever ball type valve prior to a larger Nitto type fitting.


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Tyre bead seating, think this would need a big port? I have always fitted a tube after getting a puncture, never tried a fully tubeless refit.

https://youtu.be/FZGvAqqlm7U
Much safer than using explosive aerosols! Key seems to be removing the tyres valve also.
To be honest I doubt I’ll ever need it as most of us carry the same size/brand spares up there :-)


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You pair have me thinking (and drinking) which makes my head hurt...

"TPC" is used by the millions of metres in industry pneumatics so maybe the blowouts are due to a combo of really hot ambient air from the engine bay getting drawn thru the compressor and superheated.
The place it blows out seems to be right near the Comp.

Water traps in mine are the usual water condensate drain valve in the bottom of the 20 litre tank and a low press air reg when I get around to fitting it.
Was thinking of putting one in the Tank supply line now I've seen MBs sketch but curious regards efficiency as the air will be hot as #@$%.
Dump valve won't work for water on the air supply port as it is centred but would def be an idea for the drain port

Rear air bag setup is overly complicated IMHO and will maybe cause heartache.
Maybe better to 'tee' the inflation/deflation lines close to the bags as you want the same pressure in them anyway
Indeed, I don't quite see the point of being able to adjust either side individually from the cab but pressure gauge in cab is a good idea.
Air bags (ride levelling not full air suspension) are recommended to be inflated prior to loading by some manuf.
Mine run two lines about a metre long to the check valves which are right beside my Charge Air point on the side of the tray.
My Supply is a standard line about a metre long (if that) from the Tank Supply Port to the Charge Air Valve.
I carry a little placcy box of M to F and F to M charge air fitting adapters so I can use ARB, Ryco, Qwikfit etc

Why don't you run the lockers and 240 Volt Air from/to the 20 litre tank?
That would give you a 15 metre airline for tyre inflation off 240 or Onboard supply.

Run a standard size air line and Tyre bead reseating shouldn't be a problem off the 20 litre tank.
You should always pull the valve out.
A bit of detergent or somesuch on the loose bead always helps as well.
Ratchet strap, rope, whatever will makes a 'tourniquet effect' all but make 100% certain the tyre will seat.
I can vaguely remember the old man doing tractor tyres on the farm with a bit of chain and a chain dog thingy.

Right... back to the Beer

Top stuff ET !
Yeah I’m not too stressed about the remaining ‘TPC’ as it is well away from the heat source now.
It was originally connected directly into the compressor where it blew out twice.
My recently installed water filter thingy is about 1.5m along the line on the rear inside wall of the extra cab which is quite easy to see what’s occurring in its little glass bowl.
Rear air bags being separated/adjustable L/R are truly awesome for scary off angle mountain tracks and make levelling my ute bedroom a piece of cake at camp each night :-)
I do definitely need a little box of fitting adapters like your top idea!
Lockers and Tyre air do actually come from the 20L tank just my crappy drawing shows them connecting closer to the filter :-(
In regards engine bay heat, all my setup is inside the extra cab but is still amazing the temps that come out of the ARB twin, finger burning stuff!
Detergent sounds like a great idea for blasting assistance! I do remember TD kindly posting once also that his tyre bloke used something like a big rubber ring band that pops off once the seat is made.
Nearly home from work, will join you for a brew soon too ;-)


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