Which rack did you go with?
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Hope we’re feeling strong mate, no hydraulics on the river to get our cousins toys off again..... :-)
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Smashed a wagon window......accidentally locked the keys in on the river camping, she’s gonna be pissed upon return home oops [emoji51]
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Piece of masonite with a lovely floral print, all will be good. Use the special classy silver tape, even better.
Got any PDF embroidery type cushion templates I could please copy Philstar mate? Dire straits forthcoming in E-minus 59minutes collision work homecoming!
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First time in 20+ years old mate, must’ve been too relaxed :-) For sure would have locked the remote thingymebob in there too that night. Is that how they work, a keychain buzzer fob mate?
EDIT: Meant long time time since accidentally locking keys in a truck, must be slipping over the hill YO.
Collingwood supporters AM radio camping sour loss next to us encouraged a 4 door elecy lock-up via drivers key, forgot about the rear barn door close upon beer security before bedtime, with keys next to the fridge slide :-(
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Fishing Lake Eucumbene last yr, up early rushing around to go out on water with mate in boat. Each had own vehicle, where is me keys? Looked all over up thru tussock to w/c, thru gear no joy (2hrs stressing). Wind was crap decided to lift boat get a lift home with mate, picked up spare keys and back in the trusty 2.4 lt nav ute with wife, gained entry and then headed back home (let her drive the GU), keep the peace (150 ks each way).
Spent mega bucks on new coded/remote key and got a couple of non coded key (entry only). Few days after getting new key, sorting out gear, shoved hand thru sleeve of Gore-Tex jacket (has pull in sleeve cuffs) and yep keys fell out on the ground (now 3 coded). Stuff.
Now, always when up bush or stressed, have a non coded key hanging around my neck and stays there. Coded keys in safe place (not in my pocket).
Installed the new HD rear lower control arms, and front and rear adj panhards today. Drivers side control arm took 4 hours to get out as the belly tank blocked the bolt extraction, so after jinking around, headed up to total Tools for a 5" angle grinder, and off came the head , then had to weld up a tool to extract the frozen bolt, so armed with that experience, attacked the pass side, which took all of 10 minutes to do. Hint though, use a ratchet strap to hold the diff housings together front to rear, or else they will roll out of alignment if the wheels are not chocked @MudRunnerTD came to the rescue on that issue, thanks darren.
Drove the car back into the garage, didn't notice a damn difference at all - seems like a total waste of time!!!!!
One thing of note that was different was the smooth action of the suspension, even on the short relocation. I installed all the pins using a teflon antiseize and the difference was there - far smoother.
Just finished fitting up a Kaymar OzBar I picked up second hand. Don't have any swingaway's yet. Everything fitted up flawlessly, direct bolt on.
To me it sits a bit too low, as in the gap between body and bar is a bit much. But it's spot on according to fitting instructions. And regardless, physically cannot be altered up or down anyway.
Just gotta get a flasher relay now, as my indicators are going nuts due to the LED lights in the bar. I'd prefer that to the resistor packs.
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Looks good Hodge
I’m looking at my car with sad eyes as soon I’m trading it in and I don’t really want to but that’s life sometimes.
Unless someone wants to buy it prior, let me know
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Just dont load it up too much. Those toothpick chassis rails aren't the best.
Attachment 76565
Decided to give em a break!
Many years of building a business together off the back of great old hauling Patrols, today forward they can take a well earned rest and run around jobs relaxed.
Finance approved and deposit paid for next steps with an oldish 8x4TS International Acco 8.3L Rebuilt Cummins.
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Sellers RWC underway and Palfinger Vic ready for 10Y checks certification we hope all good.
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Time to upgrade us all from LT-MR now to HR licences needed and Palfinger Dogging tickets first before being eligible for C6 Crane tickets for its 16T lift capabilities.
Haven’t been to school for years, going to be fun I reckon and may even help keep us safer out bush atop of what’s kindly been learnt here so far at NP.com.au great folks [emoji106][emoji106]
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Nice one MB, looks awesome.
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And or haul one of our 3 x times en-route failed tucker trailers home mate :-)
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Never old mate, dish it out then accept it back Monkey flinging brother :-)
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Mark maaate, got a 5000gal tank I want to move and put it up on the hill (gravity feed), recon this could have been the go mate. Just a bit far away from you, other wise could have had a job for ya.
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Only one ATM. will have more tomorrow as Ute is going on the market next week
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Started modification to my JT cooler frame. Want to fit some rubber isolators between frame and cooler to hopefully dampen some of the resonance (noise) caused by the induction air passing thru the tube and fin core (turbulence) @ 26psi boost.
Removed cooler, started by modifying frame to lift cooler to provide more clearance between frame and cooler.
Also needed to increase the distance between the frame mounting lugs ( ie 30mm each, Fwd & Aft) so to fit 30mm dia x 30mm length rubbers isolators for mounting cooler to frame.
Put the rubber isolators onto original lugs so to determine brkt mod profiles and placement, made the new mounting lugs up out of some RHS laying around, jigged them up in place ready for welding tomorrow and then will cut away original lug excess. Coming together and figuring out as I go. So far good.
Took the Patrols pants off.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/10/219.jpg
Getting ready to put the Milweld bar on.
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Completed mod to JT frame and installed (frame & cooler) back in veh. All went well and the resonance noise has completely gone.
Ended up lifting cooler relative to frame by 5mm, increased the clearance of rail under hot tank inlet to suit lift plus need to fit joiner. Used the 4 x Mackay Multicusion rubber isolators (M10303055) between frame and cooler and made up some rubber pads to fit between frame and veh body.
Even the boost went up one psi, have brought it back to 26psi running well.
Yep. Mine is the same. Cross country .
Under full boost I feel like I'm at the tulla airport plane lookout ...
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Yes CC & JT coolers they are very much the same build. JT does different inlet (hot side), for CRD only use the OEM 45 deg elbow to make the 90 deg bend hook up to turbo. JT cooler assy with fan no frame is 8.85kg.
Mine was terrible under load and boost above 20psi. As Hodge said like a jet plane.
TD42 and CRD frame may differ (not sure) but I had mine modified to accommodate 3" induction pipework. You need at least 5mm clearance between frame and cooler to allow for movement with the rubber isolators.
Can discuss mod further if suits. Has made such a difference it was hell on the hwy hauling.
Just drove in from an awesome 3 days on my own around Woodspoint!
Explored, prospect and hiked around finding some old miners settlements and old boilers, etc. one of the best trips I've done.
Nearly stood on a snake in the middle of nowhere hiking along one of the tracks.
Lockers saved me at one point heading down a seldom used track to explore an old mining spot.
Kind of scary on your own as the track got steeper and steeper with no way to turn around so fully committed and just enough room for a 10 point turn.
Would've been winching for hours without lockers. Photos doesn't do much.
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