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Not sure mate. Mine don't rattle. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti's Beast
Yeah I installed one ages ago Jack. It actually just slides in the a/c evap box. Easily accessible.Quote:
Originally Posted by jack
Yeah I thought about it. But I need to replace the rear bumper first.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacho86
I will have to remember a lot when putting it all back in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
Like you said Mr Mark, great time to clean up all aftermarket wires whilst in there too, top idea/work!Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Reckon I’d slack off refitting it all though and just cut a Bunnings checker plate tradie tool box in half longways as a new robust dash for ease of opening next time around. Would probably loose the damn lock keys again no doubt knowing me :-)
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Haha! While I have the heater box out I will replace all the foam bits too. Wish I had more time because now I want to rip the entire interior out now, lay some sound deadening down and put new carpet in. But Licola is coming up and the boss wants her garage space back.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Now I have this apart, I really cannot see how you can remove the heater box without removing every first as some have said on Facebook. Physically impossible.
Yeah that's what i did with mine replaced all the bits that seal the joints as the factory foam backed tape turns to dust. . . And sound deadening used PingJing chinese version of dynamat but cheaper and just as good. .
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Mark, Thought the heater core was housed in the cradle behind the heater directional flap control box up in behind center console for GUIV?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
This is certainly where my radiator hot water flow and return pipes go.
Is this the same configuration for all GUs wagons?
Yeah see in the pic of my mess. The white box houses the heater core. The black box to the left houses the a/c evaporator and to the left of that is the fan motor and box.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Propped up the patrol to check the wheel brgs adjustment - all good. Swapped out the damaged shocker - total write-off. Measured up the spring length on the brake proportional valve and its a weird setup. The free spring length is 195mm, should be in the range of 208 to 220 by the manual. Its an 'tension spring' meanings its pulling the two spring mount points together, and I can't see how i am going to get it anywhere near the ideal. Right now the lever on the arm is sitting off the actual hex head bolt that restricts movement. Any help would be appreciated. I am running an extension bracket due to the 3" nominal lift in the back, should this be removed - if I do remove it the spring will come under more load and try to shorten its length.
From what I remember Phil the arm and spring should be at right angles to each other with the vehicle unladen. There is a pdf on the interwebs somewhere about this....
Thanks Mark, they are pretty much as you mention, however Darren @MudRunnerTD directed me to the spring length parameter which is in the manual, hence where the lengths came from. Braking is a lot better now after a few klm;s on the new disks and pads, but there is still a front brake bias thats a bit out of kilter I reckon.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
The box is out! Now to source a noo one!Attachment 75815Attachment 75816
Attachment 75817
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Yeah this is what I thought. The radiator guy that took out my heater core to check for potential leaks, which there were none (only was A/C fluid), did not remove the complete dash. They removed the glove box assy, under dash skirt, center console cover, fan housing assy, then A/C evaporator, then unbolted the heater core double ended flange pipe sections (one for for each of the heater core flow and return removable pipe). By undoing and removal of these double ended flange joint pipe sections, that cross past the core end and removed the core retaining bolts allowed the core to be slid out of the cradle to the left.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Note: I understand that after market non genuine GUIV heater cores (others veh builds maybe the same), have the flow and return pipe welded solid into the end face of the heater core unit that prevents for easy removal as per my GUIV build.
Glad I have not got your job there mate, looks impressive, think I would get lost in there.
This shows the difference to mine, the GUIV has a second flange joint at the first/second bend (both pipes) to provide a clear pass.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Mate you can't pass up the opportunity to put some sound deadening in behind the dash now.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Be stupid not to!
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Find a leak, hook up a garden hose/compressed airnow. Well done.
Somewhere to start - These guy post all over for aftermarket stuff (Adrad systems distributor also) - Phillip Radiator Services, Phillip ACT / Ph 6282 3926. I priced genuine for mine 6mths back was around $1100+ from memory
Radiator out. Thermostat out. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/07/101.jpg
I’ll send the rad off for a clean in and out, and a Tridon high flow stat to go in. Now back to thinking of how to go about the wiring that is under the dash. Well. Was under the dash.
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Yeah thats what I thought but there is already some deadening there. See pic. Unless I remove the OEM stuff and put the good shit there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Yeah use both if you do put the ping jing on the firewall then put the factory stuff back over it.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Phil, check out page 48-51 of Y61 Patrol Reference document, should help out.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/ZD30-...san-Patrol.pdf
eg: Nissan Patrol Reference Document
Page 50 of 120
After correction the spring is closer to a 90 degree angle (full line)
As opposed to where it was prior to the bracket being fitted (dashed line)
Many thanks for that, I will have a look at it tomorrow. Additionally I realised the actual dimension of the spring is measured with your foot on the brake - think I recall that correctly, so will get a stick of the correct length and jam it on the pedal and see what goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Does it rattle, like plastic insulated wire loom against hard surface sound (but it is not)... lol @ 2200-2500 rpm under slight eng load (more often in colder weather) and appears to come from in and up behind center console?Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti's Beast
Can you stop it by rotating flap control dial to demist (stops only sometimes)?
HiQuote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Yes if I turn the dial slightly it will sometimes stop rattling or moving to delist and back. It depends on the day. Mostly if I turn it half way to the next setting it will stop.
It’s often worse in warmer months.
Cheers
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OK, this is what I did after lots of yoga from under the dash. Remove center console cover and remove lower RHS dash shroud (adjacent to center counsel) and why not remove radio(easy), if you want. Go for a drive and when nose comes on, place hand/fingers in against flap control linkages on the RHS side of flap box and with slight sideways finger pressure, move around against flap control linkages and you should be able to stop the rattle. Mine was the small sector switch plate that had a felt washer on its pivot post (between the switch plate and the flap box side). I removed some of the sideways play by using slightly thicker felt washer (made up x 2 thickness). Think there was a screw holding a switch plate in position on its pivot point. The linkages have a slight amount of grease at the pivots and link arms, try a little more grease to absorb vibration and I even bent/deformed the sector plate a little to gain more clearance. You can easily slide your fingers in thru from front RHS of counsel with cover removed and access the sector plate holding screw linkages etc from up/under dash with lower shroud removed. Initially the noise seemed to come from all over the place (air ducting and even thought snorkel fixing bolts) but mainly center console cover area. Good idea to check snorkel retaining bolts while playing as mine were loose a little.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti's Beast
Nissan had dash out twice before I found that the linkages were at fault.
This is the sound deadening stuff I got @Rossco. The stuff you got. did it have some weight to it? The stuff I got is quite light. But thick.
Attachment 75818
I also had to cut the carpet out this arvo too. Was bloody soaked under it and starting to get a bit of mould.
OK, brackets are at 90 deg, or within a degree judging by the square i used. The spring arm is sitting at 196mm whether i have no brakes applied or a pole jamming the brake pedal down - shouldn't this dimension change? Next step is to pull the thing out and see if its jammed up. This is getting a bit annoying now but I guess i am learning stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
My understanding is that the spring length would change only when vehicle is in motion when the proportioning valve is compensating for theQuote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
"differences in weight distribution front-to-rear as well as the forward weight shift that occurs when the brakes are applied."
i threw some black on the rear bar.
The arm doesnt move when you apply the brakes. It only varies the amount of brake fluid that passes through the valve to the rear brakes, if that what you are referring to sorry...Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Mark, I think I need to do some reading on this. Right now I have a front brake bias, which results in a noticeable dip when braking moderately hard. Before the twin caliper upgrade the vehicle stayed flat but braked very poorly, due to the excessive weight. I dont know if I will actually get a better brake effect if the rears get higher pressure or they will simply lock up. I guess I am trying to hit some defined dimension in the manual that has the spring length at between 208 and 220mm. Mine sits at 196mm. If the arm is forced against the spring stopper screw, that is factory set, the most I get is a spring length of 200mm. What is the extra 8mm - 20mm going to do for me, or isn't it important? I cannot tell if the plunger in the proportional valve is even moving, so have to remove it I think. Even if it is moving, there is approx 5mm of free movement avail on the spring before it hits the stopper screw.
Yeah it's pretty heavy basically tar on foil. Interesting to see how that goes. Mine is definitely better but by no means is a rolls tho still a noisy bugger. .Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Decided to start removing the entire interior now and replace the carpet. It’s the original carpet, it’s dirty as, ripped and holed so out it comes. Slowly starting to freak out a little. Getting to close to Licola.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/07/118.jpg
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That looks like punishment there mate. What have you done...hahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Fark it! So I’m thinking to just replace the carpet in the cab and not worry about the back because I have drawers, a cage and fridge slide. Well the carpet in the front goes up the back and under the cage. So this mean an entire interior removal!!! Cage, drawers everything needs to come out!
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It's not that hard to do it again later in the back if you're running out of time now mate.
If I was doing mine I would not replace the rear carpet because of drawers.
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don't forget the compressor:bowdown:
Fitted these today
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/07/119.jpg
It’s amazing, I have my clutch working again and it’s ten times lighter
[emoji106]
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Yes but the front part of the carpet goes up under the drawer about two inches. I’m gonna cheat and remove the cage, unbolt the front of the drawers and lift it up and tuck the carpet underhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/07/120.jpgAttachment 75822Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
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It’s always great when things work as they should.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti's Beast
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Bugger... Too late to turn around now anyway! Enjoy itQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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