Finally fitted a new piston in the front D/S brake calliper. When I fitted new discs and pads a while ago, I found the bottom of the rubber boot was ripped and had allowed moisture to get in and cause the piston to rust along the seal.
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Finally fitted a new piston in the front D/S brake calliper. When I fitted new discs and pads a while ago, I found the bottom of the rubber boot was ripped and had allowed moisture to get in and cause the piston to rust along the seal.
Disassembled my vnt turbo actuator rod and with the liberal use of some Mil spec CLP "clean lubricate preserve solution" got my turbo actuator rod adjuster working and now can change its length to bring on boost earlier. Set the actuator lever up to hit stop by measurement (inches of mercury-vacuum) with the new mityvac hand pressure/vac pump that arrived today Good kit can use to bleed brakes and clutch as well.
Fitted some 6.5 in speakers all around a year or so back one of the better mods.Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Gags
Tomorrow I'll be taken a bit of boost out of the beast, the guys that did the head must of fixed a suspected leak I thought I had so will back it off fro 25psi ay 100mph to about 15psi at 110 mph or Hume hwy running, then fiddle with Dawes as suggested by @mudski, way to much boost for a small motor.
Plus no limp mode either but thats another story. Will let yo know how I go
Yeh (in my case), slightest vacuum leak can have large impact on spool/boost especially running high boost levels.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Saw this recently, had a stage 3 turbo fitted and tune(running 22-23 maxB), the the guys replaced my Dawes with a Tillix but used a vac hose with too large a ID to suit the vac filter. Vac leak and caused lose of boost hauling(egts high) and lack of spool response/pwr low down(laggy). Traveled 350ks home, found leak, repaired got instant improvement but needs another tune (FOChg of course).
Thursday, had ECPT do a follow up dyno tune and to provide more fuel low down for improved spool for 4 & 5th gear to match up with new procharge stage 3 turbo running Max B 22psi.
Today, doing final adjustment to the actuator rod length with good result. Achieved improved linear spool/pwr response thru rev range (>1800 rpm). Max boost >21 psi in 1st 2nd 3rd gears from 1800rpm in 4th and 5th from 2000 rpm, can produce and hold max torque >370N-m from 1800rpm in all gears under load condition....Running full NADS, Tillix/needle, Fabwitz 3" complete SS induction sys (air box to throttle body).
Hwy run <11.5 lt/100kms from Nth of Sydney to ACT doing mostly 110kph and acceptable EGTs. Dyno max result 122kW (163rwhp) / 378 N-m.
Finally washed it. Looks good in low light. I’d love to give it a new coat of jam...Attachment 75547
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No you wouldn’t . As it is you take it anywhere & enjoy it as it should be enjoyed , as do I with mine , if it got a coat of paint you’d be hesitant on some tracks / over grown etc .
Stripped the TB42 twin pot brakes down to run a kit thru them before installing next weekend. Took me 2 hours to get one of the pistons out, and there is corrosion towards the pad end of the piston that looks like its pitted the seal surface, too bad to ignore so off to buy 4 pistons on Monday. Seems Nissan is the only option at this time as nothing else on line at the moment?
Word of warning people when using compressed air to extend the pistons - you end up with a high velocity slug if you are not careful - nursing a very sore finger that got in the way as one piston let loose.
Haha! I put a piece of wood in the caliper where the pads would go to soften the blow when they fire out.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
OK, drivers side front end seals, brgs and TB42 twin pot calipers in. Did the complete overhaul per Darrens excellent instruction set. Had a few issues. The first one was the hub bearing spanner - bought this 15 yrs ago and never used it, my patrol has the GU wheel brg nuts. Bloody spigots were too big for the lock nut, so a quick dash down to Patrola part, and decided to change out the nuts, lock washer and screws, plus buy a spanner that fits.
Had a nightmare getting the small brgs off the spigots - the top and bottom knuckle brgs - totally siezed, could not shift them even with a 10 t hydraulic sykes puller, so ended up grinding out the side to weaken the brg and they came out ok.
Unsure about my torque settings for seating the wheel brgs though, set a brand spanking torque wrench to 145ft lbs per the notes and never made it click, but brgs locked right up. backed them off and rotated wheel to loosen then borrowed a neighbours TW and same again, never reached 145. Anyway, have followed the instructions but compared to the other side of the car the wheel brg assy is a fair bit stiffer. Looks like I wont get this completed this weekend, so passenger side will be done next week over a couple of nights.
Dont worry about the WB torque setting. Did my head in too. I actually broke the pin 9ff thr socket trying to get it!! Make them tight. Spin a few times each way. Fully undo. Then hand tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Thanks Darren, glad you mentioned the pin break because I also did that today. I will see about a fix tomorrow. I am looking forward to getting behind the wheel with the new setup. Didn't have much luck with the WB greaser you recommended - simply could not get it to produce the results you get - obviously operator error, maybe its set up incorrectly, no instructions but its the same concept as yours. Anyway I hand packed the bearings so will have another look at it tomorrow after bleeding the brakes.
Bearing greaser update. I have bought one different to yours, which is a pain. Mine is designed to clamp the bearing and use a grase gun to charge it. Not what I wanted, didn't recognise the difference, still over $50, but at least I know now. the vendor on ebay came back with a youtube link - excellent service.
Took mine for a drive today only to find out the heater core has a leak. I now realise its a full dash removal just to remove and refit the core.
Took out the Dash Board from my 1999 GU Patrol. Directional Vents for air was not working. Sorted out with a clean and lubrication.
Been there before mate, it's a basrard.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Yeah well Im in two minds now...Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty_nail
I spend the time putting new light in the garage so I have decent light when working on the car after hours. I hang the roof rack from the Patrol in the carport. I now can fit the Patrol, just, in the garage. I get it in there. Strip a portion of the lhs dash and inspect. I cannot see and evidence on the air box of any coolant leakage. Only what I found on the floor mat. I then start thinking back. When Hodge and I had our night off at Running Creek, about 3 weeks or so ago, I think from memory I had put a bottle of coolant on the front passenger side floor, as I rarely go anywhere without coolant on hand.
But, only noticing it now makes me think I have a leak. But its been so bloody cold and I rarely drive the car now, I'm also thinking if the coolant has been there all this time from the bottle it was stored in..
Its a big bloody job to remove the entire dash. So I want to be 100% before I start ripping stuff out. I think I will take the Patrol to work for a day, which is 45 minutes each way. Hopefully if it leaks it will then. As of now, the cooling system is under pressure over night to expose any weak points.
Its doable without removing the dash. Not to bad either. Its not that hard without removing the dash, as in you wont save time by taking the dash out.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
From all the searches i found, the entire dash needs to be removed. I started yesterday removing the glove box and had a look. I was thinking surely I could get to it without removing the lot. But. Upon inspection, I cannot see any evidence of where the coolant has leaked from. I removed the a/c filter and looked inside the box there and its totally dry. Not even a small of coolant. So I will be driving the Patrol to work tomorrow to see if it leaks. The cooling system has been under a pressure tester for the last 12 hours and there is no leaks.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Te coolant I found on the floor mat could have been from a bottle i had sitting there, a month ago. But surely it would have evaporate somewhat in that time. But, it has been bloody cold here and the Patrol gets driven about an hour each weekend....
Mark, 6 months back thought my heater core was leaking, coolant on floor mat and engine side of firewall (at drain point below a/c pipes). Took glove box compartment out screwed head up in behind and all was dry. Ended up getting UV light found liquid to glow and it was the O-rings on the a/c pipe flanges were the mate up to the corresponding joint faces at firewall. The O-rings had age hardened and a/c fluid was weeping out. Just a thought to consider, worth checking it out.
Installed another anchor point.... exiting modification lmao [emoji23]
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Wait. Is that a hint that there's another one on the way ???Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacho86
So I got myself a thunder 12 volt 12 amp 8 stage battery charger.
Pluged it all up and it's working away well. Checked the gauge and as you can see both batteries are above 14 volts is this norma? The charger is connected to the aux battery but yet both batteries are showing charge.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/06/192.jpg
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‘Should’ be fine Jaysee, if I remember correctly 14.8v is about the safe max, others will know better. I know my Redarc isolater doesn’t open from main <> aux until about 13.2v so only assuming it’s the same when charged in reverse as you are?
What Volt readings were either battery before you hooked it up mate?
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I like the 'should' Mark..Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Nah, it's makes sense as you put it.
Aux battery was @12.7v before charger went on. Put charger on and it climbed to 80% I left it on for a bit. Needed to go out so packed it up and will give it a good run tonight. Starter battery don't know.
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‘I’ electrical and mechanical hack nuffy ‘should’ always be careful, lol :-)
Assuming also that your ‘right’ side gauge is the auxiliary mate? Closest to the charge source hence giving slightly higher circa 0.2v reading?
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Yeah mate that's right.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
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Does sound like a very efficient charger mate, actually in the market for a decent shed one myself these days. If time permits please do post up a link to the ‘Thunder 12v’ ripper, Cheers!
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This is where I got it from.
Order lunchtime Tuesday arrived this afternoon.
https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/th...v-12a-tdr02112
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Finished passenger side hub seal/TB brake upgrade. @MudRunnerTD I have some photo's of the removal of the knuckle bearings using a sykes puller if you want to include in your build, plus a shot of the new disk fitted to the old hub - important step in the brake upgrade. Bleeding the brakes tomorrow with my brother , could not get all the air out using the one man bleed kit.
Finished passenger side hub seal/TB brake upgrade. @MudRunnerTD I have some photo's of the removal of the knuckle bearings using a sykes puller if you want to include in your build, plus a shot of the new disk fitted to the old hub - important step in the brake upgrade. Bleeding the brakes tomorrow with my brother , could not get all the air out using the one man bleed kit.
MODS PLS REMOVE THIS DUPLICATE POST - Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
To my frustration I am in the middle of a full front end strip down too damn it. I was going to grab a set of pics using a couple of options for king Pin bearing removal and post up too. Add yours mate. I will edit my post too and add mine at the start in the right spot.
I have a Ctek mxs5 Mark and it’s an awesome charger. Worth looking at...Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/mxs-5-0
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@MBQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I second this. I have the 4 Amp version and it charges batteries like a champ. Coupled with my in-car CTEK setup, it charges both Aux & starter.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=75761&stc=1
I've got the smaller 3.8A version and I use it as a maintenance charger only. Because my car can sit for a month without being driven I keep this charger on it all the time, hopefully it will make the batteries last longer.
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Bled brakes for 4 hrs, could not get the pedal to stop hitting the firewall. made a few calls to gents on the Forum for advice, nope didn't change. Ended up putting 2L of fluid thru the system, completely flushed it out, no leaks visible anywhere. Came to the conclusion perhaps the brake master cylinder was passing fluid, so pulled it out, looks fine but not wanting to root around any further, purchase a new Nissan brake master cylinder on the basis this one had done its job since 1997, and its a process of elimination. Bled brakes PR, DR, PF then DF and also the brake proportining valve. PedAL would pump up with engine off then fall to the firewall as soon as the engine was turned on and wouldnot return.
Whilst putting the LR wheel back on noticed the stone shield on the Koni shocker has been torn away - trying to find a card reader for my camera - study has eaten it - so will post up shots later - pretty violent damage, and the shocker will be rooted for sure - lucky I have a couple of spares.
Stripped down the feont diff and removed the centre to swap out for a 4.1 with airlockee. Swivel hubs where os very poor shape so turned into a full rebuild. Finished at 7:30 tonight. Needless ro say im cooked
Hey mark. I bit the bullet 2 years ago and spent $$$ on a decent charger. 15amp smart charger. 12v/24v. Beast Charger.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Noco Genius 15000
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2018/07/11.jpg
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Cheers ‘daz’, appreciated! Too many choices now, looks The Tops :-)
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@MB I will add with the Ctek, if the battery is fubar, the charger will let you know. Plus the recond mode is awesome. Did the battery in the wifes car which was dead flat, brought it back to life...
SOLD!
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