I think he is going turboQuote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
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I think he is going turboQuote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
Fair 'nuf... mines turbo'd (not a P400 tho) but I'd supercharge it in a heart beat and put twin exhausts at the rear wheels.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Hmmmm supercharge, hmmmmm turbo.....
Not sure how much truths in this clip but if I had a P400 Ralph :-) https://youtu.be/-hoZZpxYfXE
http://www.bulletcars.com/supercharg...er-system.html
much prefer this one with built in intercooler.
Attachment 73312
Nice mate, what is that a Whipple?
No MB, its a Supercharger... like a Turbocharger only betterQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
(Damn I'm a funny guy... you blokes should pay me to be here... $'s or rooftop bags either will do)
Incorrect as usual. @MB a whipple is a noise a person with a hare lip makes when they're trying to attract your attention.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
(Jeez, Jerry Lewis has shuffled 'n' ET thinks he's gettin' the gig)
So kinda like a Pharp but a Whipple doesn't smell as bad and is higher pitched?Quote:
Originally Posted by Touses
That's it! In extreme cases can be as wet as a pharp but unlikely to become as messy or rancid. So glad we've cleared that up!Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
You blokes are terrible:-)
Art Whipple wouldn't approve!
Fixed it for yaQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
You give us the ammo... we'll keep shootingQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
Guys, further compilation of fuel use on a 300k trio, used 48 liters. 200k of that was at 100km/hr freeway and the remainder a mix of windy gear swapping roads and perhaps 5k of 4wd'ing. So average consumption works out at 6.25kilometer/litre, or 16l/100klm.
Vehicle sits at 100klm/hr and 2000rpm and hovers around 15.5 l/100klm. I am happy with this as currently sitting at 3600kgs vehicle weight and aerodynamics of a barn. This is a heap improvement on the 2.8TD I had in before the engine swap, it would deliver numbers around the 28-30/100klm.
EGT's sit around the 250-ish mark cruising along
Good info that.
Just curious , where is your EGT probe positioned?, near the head, or further away?
I have a probe installed on each header, or actually as close to the header as I could get it which is say 100mm downstream of the 'factory' header, where it joins the exhaust pipe. Any closer and it would have been a nightmare to get in. I use SAAS gauges and had the thermocouples tested by an instrument tech in his 'hot box' and confirmed the readings are correct for what is displayed. There are two probes and 2 gauges for total clarity. Response is very quick and more than adequate for what I wanted, which was actively managing the EGT's via driving style.Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter
Kindly received some pics today from http://www.blitsbodykits.com.au/ for the GU Supercharger bonnets if anyone needs raised @rainsey Cheers mate!
I believe this one below is for GU4 and onwards: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/10/21.jpg I believe this one below is for earlier: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/10/22.jpg
Wendy there was very helpful so give em a call if you GU blokes need.
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Whoops forgot, they are ADR approved apparently with test certificates and each has its own specific registration number for your engineers needs was told.
I am considering swapping over to the Evans Waterless Coolant. I rang BD yesterday to find out the system volume and the number is 18 litres. Almost fell over. So the 20l of flush will be $379 and then 20L of coolant another $379
And another 20L for $379 to carry as spare for when we accidentally stab a bottom end hose up in the hills mate :-)
Funny enough you can top it up with water, which i dont understand how that works if you have to purge the water from the system to begin with. I suspect the risk would be minimal anyway as never had an issue with hoses so far. Anyway its on the backburner for now.
That is weird wow, just water top up for emergencies maybe? We could always carry 5L each on a 4 car convoy too mate!
Which then costs another 397 for a purge and a further 397 for new coolant as you have to dump the old stuff as it is contaminated...Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
I know, its sounds daft to me. I am going to ring one of their agents and ask the question.Quote:
Originally Posted by the evil twin
MIXING COOLANTS
Waterless and water-based coolants should not be mixed. In the event that significant
waterless coolant is lost from the system during operation and no waterless coolant is
available to fill the system and reach a repair facility, water-based coolant or water may be
used. However, repairs should be made as soon as possible, and the system should be
drained, purged and re-filled with new waterless coolant
This is from their website, so yes a leak can be expensive or you carry a bottle of the stuff. There is another 'synthetic water free coolant avail but no specs on their website regards boiling points at all.
I did read that the waterless stuff is able to work with a certain % of water as its very hard to remove all of the water in the system, even with a flush. I also wonder how good this stuff is for the environment?
Who cares - you shouldn't be running it with a leaking system unless you are Richard Branson, so really it doesn't come into the equation in my view. If you look at all the other lubricants in your vehicle none of them will aid the expansion of a remote platypus population, so toxic or not, simply another fluid which is treated with respect.
I agree with your comment about the efficiency as its nigh on impossible to remove all the water unless you go to a heap of trouble like draining, blowing thru with high volume/low pressure air and then maybe heating the block or blowing hot air thru to dry it out. There is no indication of the cooling efficiency drop per % of water either - doubt they even know. I am going to have a look at the other 'product' with 'nano particles etc etc blah b;ah blah' and see if I can find a product that is cheaper to swap with better cooling properties than the glycol mixes.
I do, to an extent. I have built a solar evaporator out of old solar water heaters, to process any used coolant from my vehicles (who's a good boy?)Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
I was thinking more of contamination around the home and the like.
I discounted using the waterless coolant, because I have to change out the timing belt every 100000 ks.
Craig, I take your point. I am pretty careful with leaking fluid here as well. When you evaporate the coolant, whats the residue and what do you do with it? The coolant is ideally collected and recycled for use as its life is stated as 'for the life of the vehicle. i recognise its difficult to catch everything, plus when it is removed it needs to be kept in an airtight vessel as its hydroscopic.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Waterless coolant wont make it run cooler.
Keep in mind the other aspects of a cooling system. No point in raising the boiling temperature to levels that you engine is already damaged at. Also keep in mind increasing boiling point or any temperature will increase system pressure so you are still at factory limits unless a high psi cap is used.
For the most part the glycol or coolant is mostly for corrosion protection. While it does help with temperature properties so does a pressurised system so they work hand in hand. The coolant, water or even the "waterless" coolant is only a median to carry the heat to the heat exchanger. At best you might get 12 degrees differential across a radiator. So if any other part of the system is not coping it is not really the coolant at fault.
It usually leaves a very minimal crust of rusty powder. I've just kept adding to it. After 5 years I maybe have 1/2 a litre of residue.
And yes. Collecting all the coolant is almost impossible for an RB30.
Agree with what you say matt, the focus is elimination of the vapour which causes both erosion and also inhibits the thermal transfer. I get around the 10 - 12 deg across the radiator as you suggest. i don't for a minute expect it to make the vehicle run cooler, more have a liquid that remains stable at the elevated temperatures. I have not checked what pressure the supplied radiator cap is as its not a nissan unit, but fair point. Whats stopping this right now is the double dip cost of conditioning the engine to remove the water, then filling with the high temp coolant. Its a big cost with a marginal gain, however I think its worth chasing to be honest.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
@poindexter Ralph mate, any updates/progress. Super keen to please see a Vic-P400 out here pioneer good man ;-)
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The situation thus far is, truck goes in after I come back from a week away during November.
I have spoken to said conversion dude, and all ducks have been lined up.
Just waiting for the end of November to come around.
I've inspected the exhaust manifolds, they are very restrictive, Brunswick Diesel recommends extractors and a 4" exhaust for the P400, we'll see what can fit.
Looking forward to it mate, can hardly wait for sure! 4” exhausts and a deep P400 super tough girdle down there squeezed in will be awesome:-) Safe Travels !!
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Possibly the slowest modification ever I’ve undertaken, quick update though. Finally found/purchased a suitably sized ‘Davies Craig-Hydro Cool’ http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/11/29.jpg Made for autos but hoping this will suffice on the old 1999 power steering coolers and hard lines removal to make way for the twin Serco oil coolers install thereafter.
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Mark, check your system pressure on both sides of the pump. These fittings are hose clamp style by the looks of it, and I think the ones you have now are crimped. I think the supply pressure is around 1300psi from memory - from my earlier investigations on nissan Patrol PS pumps and drivers for the MileMarker winch. I think these things are designed for a very moderate low side pressure - others may know more of course but worth it to check before blowing a hose especially when loaded up against a rock ledge.
Thanks mate :-) ! The current hard lines (stock GU believed) are sectioned in places along by factory flared to rubber with only worse than hose clamps, (those crappy steel plier compress release jobbies) :-(
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Coolers are all on the low pressue side from what I have seem in most cars Phil. Never seen any finned heat transfer unit in a car capable of holding much more then 20psi haha.
Yes agree, but you never know!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by matfew